Maybe this will help....
Not only is supplementing important but temperature and lighting and feeding and gutloading are all important.
Appropriate temperatures allow for proper digestion so they play a part indirectly in nutrient absorption.
Exposure to UVB allows the chameleon to produce the D3 needed to use the calcium in its system for bone health and muscle use, etc. I supplement twice a month with a phos - free calcium / D3 powder (report-cal) to ensure that the chameleon gets some D3 without overdosing it. D3 from supplements can build up in the system and lead to health issues but D3 produced from exposure to the UVB light shouldn't as long as the chameleon can move in and out of it.
I dust at most feedings with a phos - free calcium powder (report-cal) to help make up for the usually poor ratio of calcium to phos found in most feeder insects.
I also dust twice a month with herptivite...and vitamin powder with a beta carotene (prOformed) source of vitamin A. PrOformed sources won't build up in the system and lead to health issues like prEformed sources will. This leaves it to you to decide how often to give a prEformed dose to it.
Feeding/gutloading ensures that the chameleon gets a good diet. Crickets, suoerworms, roaches, locusts, etc can be fed/gutloaded with a wide assortment of greens such as dandelions, collards, endive, escarole, mustard greens, kale, etc and veggies such as carrots, sweet potato, sweet red pepper, squash, zucchini, etc.
Calcium, D3, phos, and vitamin A are all players in bone health and other systems in the chameleon and need to be in balance.
I realize this still doesn't tell you exactly how much of which you need to give them...but there are so many supplements out there to chose from that you will have to figure it out from here.
Doing what I have described, my female veileds for instance usually live for over six years, often seven and the males even longer.
