sleeping chameleon
- Thread starter Entwinedkibbles
- Start date
Part of the issue is the light at night. They need complete darkness. Sleep patterns are off.
Entwinedkibbles
New Member
Its a nightlight red 60w bulb. So you are saying I should have no lights on
Jesspete
Avid Member
No lights on in the cage. No red lights ever. And no lights on in the room.
Syreptyon
Chameleon Enthusiast
Since you're new here and this is your first post, I would highly recommend you fill out the following form in full A lot of different things could be going on to cause her daytime lethargy, so it would be useful for us to take a look at her husbandry and see if there is anything that may be contributing to her condition. Welcome to the forums by the way!
Chameleon Info:
Cage Info:
A lot of different things could be going on to cause her daytime lethargy, so it would be useful for us to take a look at her husbandry and see if there is anything that may be contributing to her condition. Welcome to the forums by the way! Chameleon Info:
- Your Chameleon - The species, sex, and age of your chameleon. How long has it been in your care?
- Handling - How often do you handle your chameleon?
- Feeding - What are you feeding your cham? What amount? What is the schedule? How are you gut-loading your feeders?
- Supplements - What brand and type of calcium and vitamin products are you dusting your feeders with and what is the schedule?
- Watering - What kind of watering technique do you use? How often and how long to you mist? Do you see your chameleon drinking?
- Fecal Description - Briefly note colors and consistency from recent droppings. Has this chameleon ever been tested for parasites?
- History - Any previous information about your cham that might be useful to others when trying to help you.
Cage Info:
- Cage Type - Describe your cage (Glass, Screen, Combo?) What are the dimensions?
- Lighting - What brand, model, and types of lighting are you using? What is your daily lighting schedule?
- Temperature - What temp range have you created (cage floor to basking spot)? Lowest overnight temp? How do you measure these temps?
- Humidity - What are your humidity levels? How are you creating and maintaining these levels? What do you use to measure humidity?
- Plants - Are you using live plants? If so, what kind?
- Placement - Where is your cage located? Is it near any fans, air vents, or high traffic areas? At what height is the top of the cage relative to your room floor?
- Location - Where are you geographically located?
Definitely no lights at night for chameleons. A healthy animal will find a spot to settle down into and sleep the entire night. Sometimes they will turn in early (maybe an hour or so) but they are alert and awake for the rest of the day.
Please cut and paste the above questions into a post here and let's see what else may need adjusting so your chameleon doesn't develop any serious issues. Be as specific as you can so we can offer the best advice.
Entwinedkibbles
New Member
ok
https://www.chameleonforums.com/threads/enwtinedkibbles-chameleon.166077/
Link to answers to form...
Link to answers to form...
Entwinedkibbles
New Member
Chameleon Info:
Cage Info:
- Your Chameleon - Jackson chameleon, female, I think 1 year old. I have owned her for 6 months.
- Handling - One to two times a day
- Feeding - Horned worms, Super worms, and crickets horned worms 6 a week, super worms 12 a week crickets 40 to 50 a week. crickets in the morning, worms in the afternoon. I am not gut loading.
- Supplements -exo terra multi vitamin and once a week.
- Watering - Spray her and cage three four times a day. Spray her twice a day for about five minutes. Almost every time I spray her she drinks.
- Fecal Description - Brown wet pellets . No, I was told she was cage born.
- History
Cage Info:
- Cage Type - Screen cage, 26''X16''
- Lighting - zoo med, ReptiSun 5.0 UVB Mini Compact Fluorescent. Daylight Blue Reptile Bulb (75w). Nightlight red (60w). 12 hours on, 12 hours nightlight.
- Temperature - 70`F floor 85`F at the top. 70`F Thermometer at basking spot and at the floor.
- Humidity - humidity is at 45 to 55. misting. Hygrometer.
- Plants - yes. I cannot remember the names of the plants.
- Placement - center room at wall. with a air purifier on the other side of room. 64'' to the top of the cage from the floor.
- Location -south eastern United States
Entwinedkibbles
New Member
any information for taking care of her would be greatly appreciated. She is very dear to me and I want to give her the best of everything.
ERKleRose
Chameleon Enthusiast
Did you read this?
https://www.chameleonforums.com/care/caresheets/jacksons/
https://www.chameleonforums.com/care/caresheets/jacksons/
ERKleRose
Chameleon Enthusiast
Jackson's Chameleons - General Care
Temperature:
Baby/juvenile (<9 months): 70-75F (21-23C) ambient, 75-80F (23-26C) basking
Adult: 70-80F (21-26C) ambient, 82-85F (29C) basking
Ambient temperature refers to the temperature near the bottom of the cage and basking temperature refers to the hottest point accessible to your chameleon. Basking is where a chameleon absorbs heat from an external overhead source to help regulate their body temperature; it also promotes proper digestion and a healthy metabolism. Nighttime temperatures can safely drop down to 50F (10C) so a night heat source should not be used unless temperatures are lower than this. If night heat is needed a ceramic heat emitter or space heater should be used, not a light bulb, even red or black bulbs.
Humidity:
Humidity is an important aspect of chameleon husbandry. Jackson's chameleons require levels around 60-80%, which can be achieved by several misting sessions a day over all areas of the cage. Live plants help increase and maintain humidity. Sometimes a cool mist humidifier or timer-controlled misting system is needed. See Water & Humidity for more information.
Cage Size:
In general when housing chameleons, bigger is better. Jackson’s chameleons are highly territorial and easily stressed by the presence of other chameleons, even of their own species. Two or more Jackson’s chameleons should never be kept in the same cage. Cages should be furnished with many plants and climbing branches to provide opportunities for exercise and plenty of places for hiding. Substrate (mulch, soil, etc.) should not be used in chameleon cages. See Chameleon Enclosures for more information.
screen cage (length x width x height):
16x16x30" (40x40x76cm) - Juveniles
18x18x36" (45x45x90cm) - Adult minimum
Lighting:
All lighting and heat bulbs should be outside and on top of the cage. There should be 12 hours of UVB light, along with 12 hours of darkness for proper rest. A UVB bulb is necessary to synthesize vitamin D3 in the skin and to facilitate absorption of dietary calcium. UVB bulbs only emit UVB rays for 6-8 months, even if they’re still shining, so they must be replaced at least twice a year. A basking bulb creates the heat gradient so that your cold-blooded chameleon can regulate its body temperature by moving into warmer or cooler zones as needed. When choosing a basking bulb start with a 60watt bulb and monitor temperature closely. Higher wattage bulbs are hotter in temperature and vice versa so choose the appropriate wattage bulb based on the temperatures achieved. A bulb that makes it too hot can burn your chameleon badly even from several inches away and through the screen. See Chameleon Lightingfor more information.
Jackson's Chameleons - Food & Nutrition
Feeding:
Chameleons are insectivores meaning they should only be fed live insects. Great feeder insects include crickets, silkworms, hornworms, butterworms, dubia roaches and superworms. Waxworms and mealworms are high in fat content and harder to digest so should only be used on occasion. The rule of thumb is to not feed insects that are longer than the width of your chameleon's head.
Neonates: as many small crickets as they can eat several times a day
Juveniles 3-6 months of age: 10-12 small crickets daily
Juveniles 6-12 months of age: 8-10 medium crickets every other day
Adults over 12 months of age: 6-8 medium-large crickets every other day
Chameleons should be fed in the first half of the day to give them time to bask and digest their food properly. Crickets need to be properly gutloaded with calcium rich vegetables several hours before being fed to your chameleon. Inadequate dietary calcium leads to metabolic bone disease, a very serious illness. Commercially available gutloads usually aren't properly balanced or sufficient for good nutrition. See Chameleon Food for more information.
Supplementation:
Calcium and other vitamins are very important to your chameleon's health. Feeder insects should be lightly dusted with powdered supplement before being fed to your chameleon. As a montane species (native to higher altitudes) Jackson's have decreased supplementation requirements compared to tropical species due to metabolism differences. Use calcium (without D3 or phosphorus) twice a week, a multivitamin once a month, and calcium with D3 once a month.
Temperature:
Baby/juvenile (<9 months): 70-75F (21-23C) ambient, 75-80F (23-26C) basking
Adult: 70-80F (21-26C) ambient, 82-85F (29C) basking
Ambient temperature refers to the temperature near the bottom of the cage and basking temperature refers to the hottest point accessible to your chameleon. Basking is where a chameleon absorbs heat from an external overhead source to help regulate their body temperature; it also promotes proper digestion and a healthy metabolism. Nighttime temperatures can safely drop down to 50F (10C) so a night heat source should not be used unless temperatures are lower than this. If night heat is needed a ceramic heat emitter or space heater should be used, not a light bulb, even red or black bulbs.
Humidity:
Humidity is an important aspect of chameleon husbandry. Jackson's chameleons require levels around 60-80%, which can be achieved by several misting sessions a day over all areas of the cage. Live plants help increase and maintain humidity. Sometimes a cool mist humidifier or timer-controlled misting system is needed. See Water & Humidity for more information.
Cage Size:
In general when housing chameleons, bigger is better. Jackson’s chameleons are highly territorial and easily stressed by the presence of other chameleons, even of their own species. Two or more Jackson’s chameleons should never be kept in the same cage. Cages should be furnished with many plants and climbing branches to provide opportunities for exercise and plenty of places for hiding. Substrate (mulch, soil, etc.) should not be used in chameleon cages. See Chameleon Enclosures for more information.
screen cage (length x width x height):
16x16x30" (40x40x76cm) - Juveniles
18x18x36" (45x45x90cm) - Adult minimum
Lighting:
All lighting and heat bulbs should be outside and on top of the cage. There should be 12 hours of UVB light, along with 12 hours of darkness for proper rest. A UVB bulb is necessary to synthesize vitamin D3 in the skin and to facilitate absorption of dietary calcium. UVB bulbs only emit UVB rays for 6-8 months, even if they’re still shining, so they must be replaced at least twice a year. A basking bulb creates the heat gradient so that your cold-blooded chameleon can regulate its body temperature by moving into warmer or cooler zones as needed. When choosing a basking bulb start with a 60watt bulb and monitor temperature closely. Higher wattage bulbs are hotter in temperature and vice versa so choose the appropriate wattage bulb based on the temperatures achieved. A bulb that makes it too hot can burn your chameleon badly even from several inches away and through the screen. See Chameleon Lightingfor more information.
Jackson's Chameleons - Food & Nutrition
Feeding:
Chameleons are insectivores meaning they should only be fed live insects. Great feeder insects include crickets, silkworms, hornworms, butterworms, dubia roaches and superworms. Waxworms and mealworms are high in fat content and harder to digest so should only be used on occasion. The rule of thumb is to not feed insects that are longer than the width of your chameleon's head.
Neonates: as many small crickets as they can eat several times a day
Juveniles 3-6 months of age: 10-12 small crickets daily
Juveniles 6-12 months of age: 8-10 medium crickets every other day
Adults over 12 months of age: 6-8 medium-large crickets every other day
Chameleons should be fed in the first half of the day to give them time to bask and digest their food properly. Crickets need to be properly gutloaded with calcium rich vegetables several hours before being fed to your chameleon. Inadequate dietary calcium leads to metabolic bone disease, a very serious illness. Commercially available gutloads usually aren't properly balanced or sufficient for good nutrition. See Chameleon Food for more information.
Supplementation:
Calcium and other vitamins are very important to your chameleon's health. Feeder insects should be lightly dusted with powdered supplement before being fed to your chameleon. As a montane species (native to higher altitudes) Jackson's have decreased supplementation requirements compared to tropical species due to metabolism differences. Use calcium (without D3 or phosphorus) twice a week, a multivitamin once a month, and calcium with D3 once a month.
Entwinedkibbles
New Member
ERKleRose
Chameleon Enthusiast
Thanks! Get more branches down at the lower levels
Entwinedkibbles
New Member
ok thanks. One more thing if you could help. Every time I hold her she turns bright green . I researched that and nothing came up. Could you tell me what that means.
ERKleRose
Chameleon Enthusiast
Not sure, probably stress
Brodybreaux25
Chameleon Enthusiast
Bright colors = stress/excitement
