Sick/losing color / VERY BAD DIGESTION . . . HELP! ! !

kase

New Member
I have a red panther, he is approx. 2 years old and about 13" from head to tail. Unknown weight. He hasn't been eating almost anything for the last three weeks. We have been handing feeding him crickets and also a Goliath worm. When he digested the worm he came out intact (dead of course). He is drinking water and we have been giving him Reptaide twice a day. He is very weak and can barely hold on to my fingers. Most of the day he has his eyes closed and when he sleeps his eye are very sucked in but when he is awake they are almost normal but not bulging. He still manages to move around his cage. He is very skinny compared to our other chameleon and he is losing color to the area around the back of his legs. He is mostly all red with blue bars and the discoloration colors are almost cream and yellow. We live in California and winter is early the temperature is usually between 55 and 70 degrees but normally have the heater on so usually about 70 to 90 degrees. Very important note he has very little power and range in his tongue. PLEASE ANYTHING WILL HELP! ! !
 
Current Problem - is what i mention before


Chameleon Info:

* Your Chameleon - panther, male, approx. 2 years. Approx. a year and a half.
* Handling - every weekend.
* Feeding - crickets most of the time and when available Goliath worms/wax worms. about 7 crickets a day. We feed him in the morning. With cricket food.
* Supplements - the brand is Sticky Tongue farms and type of calcium and vitamin product is Miner-All.
* Watering - The technique that we use is the drippier. We mist him three times a day and for about three min. each time. We see him drink every time.
* Fecal Description - Very waterier and dark brown recently we feed him a Goliath worm and it came out intact. No he has not been tested for parasites
* History - He has never been sick before this is the first time he has any problem.

Cage Info:

* Cage Type - we have a screen cage and the dimension 3 feet high by 24" inch. by 24" inch.
* Lighting - we use a 18 inch. ZOO MED 10.0 UVB light that is about 11" away on the top of the cage. And a heating bulb that is also ZOO MED we don't recall the size. The daily lighting schedule is 7:00 to 7:00.
* Temperature - What temp range is from 90 degrees on top (basking spot) and the floor is 80. Lowest overnight temp is about 68. The way we measure these temps is with a thermostat.
* Humidity - our humidity reader broke. working on geting one this week. The we are creating and maintaining these levels of humidity is by misting the cage and also a branch that we place in the restroom and run hot water thus crating humidity.
* Plants - we are using live umbrella plants.
* Placement -the cage is in the kitchen it is near some windows it is a high traffic area but our cham are not very shy. The top of the cage is about 4 and a half feet form the floor. and our house has tile.
* Location - We live in southern cali. in riverside.
thank you
 
Current Problem - is what i mention before


Chameleon Info:

* Your Chameleon - panther, male, approx. 2 years. Approx. a year and a half.
* Handling - every weekend.
* Feeding - crickets most of the time and when available Goliath worms/wax worms. about 7 crickets a day. We feed him in the morning. With cricket food.
* Supplements - the brand is Sticky Tongue farms and type of calcium and vitamin product is Miner-All.
* Watering - The technique that we use is the drippier. We mist him three times a day and for about three min. each time. We see him drink every time.
* Fecal Description - Very waterier and dark brown recently we feed him a Goliath worm and it came out intact. No he has not been tested for parasites
* History - He has never been sick before this is the first time he has any problem.

Cage Info:

* Cage Type - we have a screen cage and the dimension 3 feet high by 24" inch. by 24" inch.
* Lighting - we use a 18 inch. ZOO MED 10.0 UVB light that is about 11" away on the top of the cage. And a heating bulb that is also ZOO MED we don't recall the size. The daily lighting schedule is 7:00 to 7:00.
* Temperature - What temp range is from 90 degrees on top (basking spot) and the floor is 80. Lowest overnight temp is about 68. The way we measure these temps is with a thermostat.
* Humidity - our humidity reader broke. working on geting one this week. The we are creating and maintaining these levels of humidity is by misting the cage and also a branch that we place in the restroom and run hot water thus crating humidity.
* Plants - we are using live umbrella plants.
* Placement -the cage is in the kitchen it is near some windows it is a high traffic area but our cham are not very shy. The top of the cage is about 4 and a half feet form the floor. and our house has tile.
* Location - We live in southern cali. in riverside.
thank you

Whats your suppliment schedule?

if the poop is watery it could be parasites.

Change your lights to reptisun 5.0 or reptiglo 5.0

If your cham is used to the traffic thats fine I would raise the cage up higher though.
 
Howdy,

It doesn't seem likely that he's going to recover without a Vet's intervention :(.

Riverside isn't too far from Dr. Tom Greek (highly recommended) in Yorba Linda. I'd call him tomorrow and get an appointment to see him before Noon on Saturday. He's also open 8am-6pm on Friday too. A first visit is about $50 + drugs etc. If you make it there, tell'em I sent you :). I think he knocks-off $15 from your bill if you are a first-time referral (before 12/31/09). Ask when you make an appointment.

http://www.tomgreek.com/

Greek & Associates Veterinary Hospital
23687 Via Del Rio
Yorba Linda, CA 92887
714-463-1190
[email protected]
 
...approx. 2 years. Approx. a year and a half.

With cricket food.
...Miner-All.

* Fecal Description - Very waterier and dark brown recently we feed him a Goliath worm and it came out intact. No he has not been tested for parasites

* Lighting - we use a 18 inch. ZOO MED 10.0 UVB light that is about 11" away on the top of the cage.

90 degrees on top (basking spot) and the floor is 80. Lowest overnight temp is about 68. The way we measure these temps is with a thermostat....
Howdy,

Just a little follow-up while on your way tothe Vet's :eek::

To be clear, you've had him for about 1.5 yrs?

What kind of cricket food do you feed your crickets?

As was asked; what is your dusting schedule? Which version of Miner-All do you use? Yellow-top or Red-top can? Miner-All products are fine but you need to be using the yellow-top if he spends most of his time indoors under artificial UVB. It has vitamin D3 in it and the the red-top does not. Also, add Herptivite (vitamins) once or twice a month. If you were only using the red-top can then he was not receiving any supplemented vitamin D3 and that could be a big issue :(.

As was mentioned, parasites are always a possibility so a fecal check (~$25) is important even if it is just to get a baseline for future reference. If coccidia is found then I'd say you have a smoking gun. Treat with Ponazuril. Having an undigested feeder come out could be caused by a number of things. If the feeder was in there a few days then the digestive system is shut down. If it passed through, undigested, in a day or so then other issues may be at play. Lack of calcium has been linked to digestive problems.

The ZooMed 10.0 18" linear tube (~1.5 yr-old tube? [replace at 6-12 months :eek:]) positioned 11" from his basking spot and going through the screen will be close enough to a useable Reptisun 5.0 at this point as to not be a smoking gun for your symptoms.

You mentioned thermostat. I hope you meant thermometer. A thermostat implies that you might be trying to regulate the temps via controlling the basking light output through the thermostat. This isn't a recommended method to control basking temps for chameleons.

Gotta dash to work!
 
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