KarmaChameleon1337
Avid Member
Okay not basics but what are the things I need to know about breeding and incubating the eggs of a Senegal?
Senegal breeding basics?
- Thread starter KarmaChameleon1337
- Start date
This might help....
http://chameleonnews.com/08FebFrancis.html
http://chameleonnews.com/08FebFrancis.html
KarmaChameleon1337
Avid Member
Interesting article but in it it said he didn't have success hatching.
I don't think I know of anyone who has had success with hatching this species.
More info...
"Incubation time averages 6 months at 77 F, and sexual maturity may be reached by 5 months of age."...
http://blogs.thatpetplace.com/thatr...-facts-and-the-care-of-the-senegal-chameleon/
More info...
"Incubation time averages 6 months at 77 F, and sexual maturity may be reached by 5 months of age."...
http://blogs.thatpetplace.com/thatr...-facts-and-the-care-of-the-senegal-chameleon/
KarmaChameleon1337
Avid Member
The thing is that if a 14 year old girl is succesful at anything adults automatically assume they're liars, that's how the world is.
KarmaChameleon1337
Avid Member
I get the time and temps but what dirt do I put the eggs in and do I mist the soil like I've heard people say?
davthevieled
Avid Member
From what I understand, you don't really want to mist since it will land on the eggs... instead you want to use something that gives a more direct stream and go around the eggs. Also, I can't remember what thread it was but someone was mentioning how they barely open their containers at all and have been breeding? I've been reading into it a bit since I plan on possibly breeding sometime next year during the summer. (Veiled though)
https://www.chameleonforums.com/best-egg-incubation-material-63238/index2.html
That is the link to the thread about it... measuring out the actuall weight of the water and substrate and then just closing shop, only opening it up when checking on the eggs.
Last edited:
KarmaChameleon1337
Avid Member
Okay so basically I mix the verm stuff with the rario of water, put the eggs in, and let it be? What container do I use?
Motherlode Chameleon
Chameleon Enthusiast
Plastic tupper ware works. I would weight the tupper ware with the vermiculite/water mixture. That will allow you to monitor the water loss. Can someone post a good link I certain there plenty.
Run a search on these forums to see if you can find a complete link.
Run a search on these forums to see if you can find a complete link.
davthevieled
Avid Member
Deli cups? Anything that is a good insulator that can hold in the humidity that it needs. Just by going by that post though, the idea is to make sure there is no holes so that none of the humidity escapes.
KarmaChameleon1337
Avid Member
http://www.google.com/m/products/de...b=c&ei=y2oyToCmHdPjlgeQp_6aAw&ved=0CB8Q8wIwAA
This incubator will be best right?
This incubator will be best right?
KarmaChameleon1337
Avid Member
Also, will newly hatched babies be able to eat fruit flies?
davthevieled
Avid Member
Fruit flies, pinheads, anything small enough really. I wouldn't know about the incubator, I have only been reading up on prep, for the eggs. I've seen the hovabator turn out successful, and there is no doubt that should also be successful as long as it can keep temps and humidity where you need it.
KarmaChameleon1337
Avid Member
Can I keep all of them in one enclosure while I find homes for them? I know they don't get territorial for a few months. Can they be in a parent's cage or will they view them as food?
Here's what I do for all the eggs that I've ever hatched (turtles, coneheads, waterdragons, several species of geckos, chameleons, etc., etc.)....
I take shoebox sized tupperware type containers and fill them half full of slightly moist COARSE vermiculite. (To judge the moisture, take a fist full of the vermiculite and squeeze it...if no more than a drop of water comes out its right.)
I only fill the containers half full so that when the babies hatch they have some room to move around. I punch two very tiny holes in the lid of the container.
I put dents in the vermiculite in rows to set the eggs in. By spacing the eggs about an inch apart in all directions, the eggs will hatch more individually and in captivity, I think its a good thing.
The containers can be placed in an incubator or in any other dark place in your house where the temperature will remain in the right range to incubate the eggs for the whole length of time that they are incubating.
(I don't use a real incubator...I use a wooden frame of 2" x 2" wood slats which fits over a human heating pad that has three heat settings and does not shut off and stay off while being used. I put screen over the wooden frame and set the containers of eggs on top of the screen. The wood frame can be raised slightly if needed to get the temperature right.)
Once the eggs are in the container, as long as you don't open it for long times it should not dry out. It should be like a mini eco system....water drops form on the sides of the container and underside of the lid and run down into the vermiculite, and water evaporates to make more moisture on the lid and sides, etc. If you do have to add a little water, add it around the edge of the container....not on the eggs. The eggs are said to have a protective coating that stops mold and bacteria from growing on them...so you don't want to wash that off.
As the eggs reach the time to hatch, you can often see them "jiggle" and they should sweat, shrink and then pip and hatch over the few days after they sweat.
If you have the substrate too wet eggs may take on too much moisture and the babies will die. If the eggs are too dry they might shrink in to a point of no return and the baby will again die. If the temperature goes out of the right range that the eggs should be incubated the babies will die.
If you candle the eggs they should glow pink if they are fertile and/or show blood vessels in them. Depending on the species, you can see the babies move around inside the eggs. Do not keep the lid off watching this though or the eggs will likely dry out...and I'm not sure if the light used for candling will do any damage to the babies if on the eggs too long or not either.
I take shoebox sized tupperware type containers and fill them half full of slightly moist COARSE vermiculite. (To judge the moisture, take a fist full of the vermiculite and squeeze it...if no more than a drop of water comes out its right.)
I only fill the containers half full so that when the babies hatch they have some room to move around. I punch two very tiny holes in the lid of the container.
I put dents in the vermiculite in rows to set the eggs in. By spacing the eggs about an inch apart in all directions, the eggs will hatch more individually and in captivity, I think its a good thing.
The containers can be placed in an incubator or in any other dark place in your house where the temperature will remain in the right range to incubate the eggs for the whole length of time that they are incubating.
(I don't use a real incubator...I use a wooden frame of 2" x 2" wood slats which fits over a human heating pad that has three heat settings and does not shut off and stay off while being used. I put screen over the wooden frame and set the containers of eggs on top of the screen. The wood frame can be raised slightly if needed to get the temperature right.)
Once the eggs are in the container, as long as you don't open it for long times it should not dry out. It should be like a mini eco system....water drops form on the sides of the container and underside of the lid and run down into the vermiculite, and water evaporates to make more moisture on the lid and sides, etc. If you do have to add a little water, add it around the edge of the container....not on the eggs. The eggs are said to have a protective coating that stops mold and bacteria from growing on them...so you don't want to wash that off.
As the eggs reach the time to hatch, you can often see them "jiggle" and they should sweat, shrink and then pip and hatch over the few days after they sweat.
If you have the substrate too wet eggs may take on too much moisture and the babies will die. If the eggs are too dry they might shrink in to a point of no return and the baby will again die. If the temperature goes out of the right range that the eggs should be incubated the babies will die.
If you candle the eggs they should glow pink if they are fertile and/or show blood vessels in them. Depending on the species, you can see the babies move around inside the eggs. Do not keep the lid off watching this though or the eggs will likely dry out...and I'm not sure if the light used for candling will do any damage to the babies if on the eggs too long or not either.
KarmaChameleon1337
Avid Member
Thanks, there seems to be a debate on whether or not you should put holes.
KarmaChameleon1337
Avid Member
Sorry if I'm a bother to you guys asking so many questions, I'm obsessed with chameleons.
KarmaChameleon1337
Avid Member
How can I house them all, in an enclosure similar to the parents, or will that size be too big? I think fruit flies would escape easily. Could I put them with a parent or would they view the tiny moving thing as food?
I wound definitely not put them in with their parents!
Here's what I do with them to start off....
http://chameleonnews.com/02NovHorgan.html
I prefer the longer lower cages for them so that they definitely have access to the UVB but also I find that they aren't all trying to sit on the top of the same branch...they spread out more and then when they go after the food there is less chance of tongues getting tangled.
As they get older some will dominate the cage and as this happens they need to be separated out.
Here's what I do with them to start off....
http://chameleonnews.com/02NovHorgan.html
I prefer the longer lower cages for them so that they definitely have access to the UVB but also I find that they aren't all trying to sit on the top of the same branch...they spread out more and then when they go after the food there is less chance of tongues getting tangled.
As they get older some will dominate the cage and as this happens they need to be separated out.
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