Recovery from respiratory infection?

[myk2slick]

I have a juvenile female veiled chameleon that was given to me for a better home. i’ve never had reptiles before and though i know that they are generally not the first choice for beginners it really was not something i sought out. I took her to the vet because she was holding her nose in the air and and then i noticed she was blowing bubbles out of her mouth. i only have seen her do this once but that was enough to concern me they prescribed her an injection antibiotic and i’ve been treating her as directed she’s had two doses so far and there are 8 left. I notice she still is sticking her nose in the air sometimes and pretty much every time after eating but she is eating regularly and apart from being mad at me for treating her she seems okay. i guess my question is does anyone have experience in treating chameleons and know the signs that treatment is working? And how do i know i fought it soon enough? the doctor said that apart from signs of previously bad husbandry she seems to be fairly healthy apart from the bubbles and he eye is kinda wonky but i think she can see out of it it was closed completely but seems a little better when i got her i think her eye had been shut for about a month previously. i also am fighting high humidity for night time i just ordered a Fogger but i also wonder if that could help heal her respiratory infection quicker or maybe even make it worse because of the moisture she already has in her chest? if there’s any side things i can do to help her recover that aren’t to evasive that anyone has experience with i would really appreciate the advice. I’ve kinda been stressing over her and we’re i don’t have any other experiences with chameleons or even reptiles to compare it to i don’t really know what to look for. the day time humidity is currently on the low side of thirty and at night i try my best to keep it atleast 60-70 but it doesn’t hold very well but like i said i did order a fiver to run at night. and she’s currently eating gut loaded and supplemented crickets and the superworm every once in a while. i want to get her on dubui roaches but my local store only has the small ones and i didn’t know if there’s such a thing as too small to feed them? should i get them anyway? i know that they are overall better option and i’d still want to incorporate crickets for variation in her diet.

 

[MissSkittles]

Hi and welcome! I am not experienced in treating respiratory infections, but I believe I can offer some help. Since you are brand new to reptiles and chameleons, I’d really like to go through all of your husbandry to ensure that it’s correct. No judgement here…just offers to help. I started not quite 6 years ago with my first reptile - a veiled girl and I knew less than nothing when I got her. I do need to get ready for and then start work in a few minutes. Provided it’s not too busy, I can reply tonight. Or someone else can pop in and help. So, I’m going to throw a ton of questions at you, starting with asking you where exactly you have been giving her the injections? Front leg, back leg, tail? How many days ago did she start the antibiotic? Are you keeping the medication in the fridge or freezer?
I’d like to see some pics of your enclosure, including the lights and floor. Also, pics of your girl which are clear and from different angles if possible.
Then, there is this below to answer as well as possible. The more details you give, the less questions we’ll have for you.

Chameleon Info:

• Your Chameleon - The species, sex, and age of your chameleon. How long has it been in your care?
• Handling - How often do you handle your chameleon?
• Feeding - What are you feeding your cham? What amount? What is the schedule? How are you gut-loading your feeders?
• Supplements - What brand and type of calcium and vitamin products are you dusting your feeders with and what is the schedule?
• Watering - What kind of watering technique do you use? How often and how long to you mist? Do you see your chameleon drinking?
• Fecal Description - Briefly note colors and consistency from recent droppings. Has this chameleon ever been tested for parasites?
• History - Any previous information about your cham that might be useful to others when trying to help you.

Cage Info:

• Cage Type - Describe your cage (Glass, Screen, Combo?) What are the dimensions?
• Lighting - What brand, model, and types of lighting are you using? What is your daily lighting schedule?
• Temperature - What temp range have you created (cage floor to basking spot)? Lowest overnight temp? How do you measure these temps?
• Humidity - What are your humidity levels? How are you creating and maintaining these levels? What do you use to measure humidity?
• Plants - Are you using live plants? If so, what kind?
• Placement - Where is your cage located? Is it near any fans, air vents, or high traffic areas? At what height is the top of the cage relative to your room floor?
• Location - Where are you geographically located?

Current Problem - The current problem you are concerned about.

--------------

Please Note:

1. The more details you provide the better and more accurate help you will receive.
2. Photos can be very helpful.

 

[myk2slick]

Her injections have been on her side right by her upper arm in her rib cage area. She got her first dose on Monday around 5 pm and is supposed to receive it every 72 hours so she just got another one Friday and her next one will be Monday. It’s being stored in the freezer and thawed out right before i give it to her. She’s a female Veiled chameleon at least four months old. I’ve had her for almost a month probably. I have handled her a couple times since i’ve had her mainly for the shot and when she first got her to set up her cage only one other time just to handle her to handle her. once her medication is over i don’t plan on handling her more than once or twice a month. I’m feeding her primarily crickets i’ve gut loaded and grapes and blueberries for hydration. The brand for the gut load for the crickets is “Mazuri better big gut loading diet”. and i’m giving the super worms grapes and blueberries too and the gut load but i only give them to her as treats. I’m dusting everything she eats with Calcium Powder without D-3 daily brand named “Repti-calcium” and Calcium Powder with D-3 once a month brand name “Zoo Meds”. I’m giving her two in the morning along with whatever she didn’t eat the night before and once i get home from work around 5 i give her two more if she has eatin them all she’s around 6 large crickets a day. I mist her i closure once in the morning before work before the lights come on i got a timed switch so im going to aim for misting it about 30 minutes to an hour before her lights come on and then i mist again right after i cut off her lights. and kinda monitor the humidity until i go to sleep so i’ll spray it a little more up until i lay down because i can’t get the humidity higher than 68-70. I do a drip system no more than once a day but not everyday more like every other day to see if she takes interest in it. if she does i’ll feel it up more or make sure the plants have a good amount of droplets. She has not been tested for parasites. And after being given superworms they look very wet. On average they seem maybe almost hydrated.. the urates look right.. mostly white with a yellowish end. She’s in a Reptibreeze vivarium completely screened size Large. I think it’s 18 x 18 x 34 or whatever i’m going to get her the 24 x 24 x 48 soon, i just want to make sure she’s out of the woods first. I don’t know the brand of the lights. my sister already had them when she gave her to me one’s a uvb bar light that goes the length of the enclosure and the heat lamp is a 60 whatt i think. the basking spot is no higher than 85 but i’m trying for closer to 80 right of the side beside the basking light is like 78 and the low middle area rests at like 74-76. once the lights go off at night her temperature drops to like 73 and i sit gel ice packs on top of the inclosure above where she sleeps to try to give her a cooler spot. During the week her lights come on at like 7:45 am and i try to turn them off at 7:45 pm but during the weekend it’s closer to 10 am to 10 pm i’m setting up the timer tonight so it’s be consistent 9am to 9pm and misting in the morning at 7:45 and setting the fogged to run from 1am to 7:45 am once i get it in. The humidity rests around 33 during the day and 50-60 through the night the highest i can get at night is 70 but it doesn’t last long. i use a spray bottle. i will get a misting system when i get her new enclosure which i don’t want to put off longer that another month or two that way i can be completely consistent with the misting and everything on the weekends as well as week days. I use all live plants mostly pathos and some other type of chameleon safe plant my sister had gotten but idk what it’s called. Hey basking branch probably rests at like 5 foot 3 inches off the ground she’s about eye lever with me for now. it’s by a window but the window stays closed and she’s in the living room but it’s not a lot of foot traffic it’s just me and my boyfriend and we work weekdays till five and we’re pretty mellow people so we’re not moving around and don’t to much her placement also seems kinda snug too so if she was going to be in the living room i feel like she’s in the perfect spot to be. there is a vent not right under here but beside her off to the side. And I live in Virginia. goldilocks zone very neutral weather not to hot not to cold. one thing that does bother me is there i la a gnat flying around her inclosure i think from the water and humidity the plants don’t seem overly wet but still there is a gnat. She is rubbing her eye on branches when i give her eye drops which were prescribed three times a day. when i gave her her shot friday she opened her mouth at me and her saliva looked sticky.

 

[myk2slick]

the one we’re she’s walking where she looks more teal. that side is her wonky eye.. the other one looks good that one looks kinda small. but she moves it like she’s looking around. when i took her to the vet they flushed out her eye and when i gave her the eyedrops she fulling opened her eye for a second before closing it again and now the most open it gets is how it is in that picture.

 

[myk2slick]

oh and i only use detailed water

 

[Jeevesieb]

I have a juvenile female veiled chameleon that was given to me for a better home. i’ve never had reptiles before and though i know that they are generally not the first choice for beginners it really was not something i sought out. I took her to the vet because she was holding her nose in the air and and then i noticed she was blowing bubbles out of her mouth. i only have seen her do this once but that was enough to concern me they prescribed her an injection antibiotic and i’ve been treating her as directed she’s had two doses so far and there are 8 left. I notice she still is sticking her nose in the air sometimes and pretty much every time after eating but she is eating regularly and apart from being mad at me for treating her she seems okay. i guess my question is does anyone have experience in treating chameleons and know the signs that treatment is working? And how do i know i fought it soon enough? the doctor said that apart from signs of previously bad husbandry she seems to be fairly healthy apart from the bubbles and he eye is kinda wonky but i think she can see out of it it was closed completely but seems a little better when i got her i think her eye had been shut for about a month previously. i also am fighting high humidity for night time i just ordered a Fogger but i also wonder if that could help heal her respiratory infection quicker or maybe even make it worse because of the moisture she already has in her chest? if there’s any side things i can do to help her recover that aren’t to evasive that anyone has experience with i would really appreciate the advice. I’ve kinda been stressing over her and we’re i don’t have any other experiences with chameleons or even reptiles to compare it to i don’t really know what to look for. the day time humidity is currently on the low side of thirty and at night i try my best to keep it atleast 60-70 but it doesn’t hold very well but like i said i did order a fiver to run at night. and she’s currently eating gut loaded and supplemented crickets and the superworm every once in a while. i want to get her on dubui roaches but my local store only has the small ones and i didn’t know if there’s such a thing as too small to feed them? should i get them anyway? i know that they are overall better option and i’d still want to incorporate crickets for variation in her diet.

Which medication are you giving? Is it Ceftazimide?

 

[myk2slick]

oh and i only use detailed water

distilled**

 

[myk2slick]

Which medication are you giving? Is it Ceftazimide?

yes it is ceftazimide

 

[myk2slick]

i also i’m going to make a laying ben i ordered the play sand for it i just have to figure out we’re to put it bc this cage is smaller than i would like

 

[Jeevesieb]

yes it is ceftazimide

I have used this same course of subcutaneous antibiotics last year when my cham had a respiratory infection. I think it took him about 4 days (our vet prescribed 10 shots, one a day for 10 days) for me to notice him starting to feel better. Stay the course. You should see improvement soon. Administering the meds was the most stressful part for him. I alternated sides to make it less sore from all the injections. Make sure you keep the shots around the front shoulder/arm area. I hope someone with more experience with veiled chams will weigh in about your husbandry, as I only have experience with panthers. Good luck!!!

 

[MissSkittles]

My replies will be bold.
Her injections have been on her side right by her upper arm in her rib cage area. That seems an odd place to me. Usually and as far as I’m aware, injections are given in the front arms, around bicep area. @kinyonga does this seem ok to you - to give antibiotic injection in the ribs? She got her first dose on Monday around 5 pm and is supposed to receive it every 72 hours so she just got another one Friday and her next one will be Monday. It’s being stored in the freezer and thawed out right before i give it to her. Very good She’s a female Veiled chameleon at least four months old. She looks older than that and maybe at least 6 months or so. I’ve had her for almost a month probably. I have handled her a couple times since i’ve had her mainly for the shot and when she first got her to set up her cage only one other time just to handle her to handle her. once her medication is over i don’t plan on handling her more than once or twice a month. You’ll want to work on building and then maintaining trust with her. https://www.chameleonforums.com/blogs/building-trust-with-your-chameleon.2396/ While our veileds are usually always spicy, it does help reduce stress to have some trust with them and also to be confident when handling. I’m feeding her primarily crickets i’ve gut loaded and grapes and blueberries for hydration. Do you mean you give the crickets the grapes and berries? Basically any fresh produce will hydrate your feeder insects. I feed all of mine primarily fresh produce and just a little bit of fruit. The Mazuri is a decent bug food. I do advise giving your pretty girl more variety of feeders though. I randomly kind of rotate my staple feeders. All of my chams are adults and they are all fed the same - the equivalent of 3-4 feeders 3 days a week plus treats. I choose to give smaller feeders so I actually give more of them. This not only has kept my ladies from producing eggs, but keeps my boys fit and trim. The brand for the gut load for the crickets is “Mazuri better big gut loading diet”. and i’m giving the super worms grapes and blueberries too and the gut load but i only give them to her as treats. I’m dusting everything she eats with Calcium Powder without D-3 daily brand named “Repti-calcium” Ok, this is perfect and Calcium Powder with D-3 once a month brand name “Zoo Meds”. While there’s nothing wrong with the actual supplement, it does need to be given twice a month and there’s a much easier way that I advise using. You are lacking a multivitamin and her eye problem possibly could be from lack of vitamin A. Not all vitamin A’s are the same. One type is plant based (proformed) and it’s suspected that chams can’t utilize this form. The other is protein based (preformed) and we know they can use it…but it needs to be given cautiously. Like vitamin D3, preformed vitamin A is fat soluble and can easily build up to toxic levels. So, having said all that, I advise tossing aside the calcium with D3. Get a bottle of Repashy Calcium Plus LoD (has a Jackson’s cham on the label) and lightly dust 1 feeding every other week (or twice a month). That will meet her multivitamin and vitamin D3 needs all in one. Of her eye problem is due to a vitamin A deficiency, it should clear up over a bit of time. I’m giving her two in the morning along with whatever she didn’t eat the night before and once i get home from work around 5 i give her two more if she has eatin them all she’s around 6 large crickets a day. She’s at that tricky age. You need to feed her enough so that grows well, but not too much that she starts producing large amounts of eggs. So, feed her just once in the morning and I would start reducing her diet to every other day. If you haven’t yet read it, here’s my blog about egg laying. https://www.chameleonforums.com/blogs/veiled-chameleon-laying-101.2488/ This seems like a good place to break this up.

 

[MissSkittles]

I mist her i closure once in the morning before work before the lights come on i got a timed switch so im going to aim for misting it about 30 minutes to an hour before her lights come on and then i mist again right after i cut off her lights. Ok, but maybe mist about 15 minutes or so before lights out. and kinda monitor the humidity until i go to sleep so i’ll spray it a little more up until i lay down because i can’t get the humidity higher than 68-70. You don’t want it high, because your temps aren’t cool enough. Heat plus high humidity is a big risk factor for respiratory infection. The ideal daytime humidity for veileds is between 30-50%. Ideal daytime basking temp for our girls is no higher than 80. At night, if you are able to consistently achieve temps below at least 68, that is when it’s ok to boost humidity all the way. Not everyone can achieve that night time temp drop. I’m in Florida and it isn’t possible, so I don’t increase humidity at night. I do a drip system no more than once a day but not everyday more like every other day to see if she takes interest in it. if she does i’ll feel it up more or make sure the plants have a good amount of droplets. When using a dripper, only run it for about 15-20 minutes per day. She has not been tested for parasites. I suggest testing. Since she’s recently been to the vet, it shouldn’t be an issue to drop off a fresh poo without another visit. And after being given superworms they look very wet. On average they seem maybe almost hydrated.. the urates look right.. mostly white with a yellowish end. Ok She’s in a Reptibreeze vivarium completely screened size Large. I think it’s 18 x 18 x 34 or whatever i’m going to get her the 24 x 24 x 48 soon, i just want to make sure she’s out of the woods first. Ok I don’t know the brand of the lights. my sister already had them when she gave her to me one’s a uvb bar light This is super important to know, not just the type (T5 or T8) but also the strength of the uvb bulb and it’s age. It should all be written (except for age) on the end of the bulb. that goes the length of the enclosure and the heat lamp is a 60 whatt i think. the basking spot is no higher than 85 but i’m trying for closer to 80 You can either raise the basking light a couple of inches off the top or try a lower watt bulb to achieve basking temp no higher than 80. right of the side beside the basking light is like 78 and the low middle area rests at like 74-76. once the lights go off at night her temperature drops to like 73 and i sit gel ice packs on top of the inclosure above where she sleeps to try to give her a cooler spot. During the week her lights come on at like 7:45 am and i try to turn them off at 7:45 pm but during the weekend it’s closer to 10 am to 10 pm i’m setting up the timer tonight so it’s be consistent 9am to 9pm and misting in the morning at 7:45 and setting the fogged to run from 1am to 7:45 am once i get it in. My brain is too tired to sort this right now. I do strongly advise using timers for your lights. The humidity rests around 33 during the day and 50-60 through the night the highest i can get at night is 70 but it doesn’t last long. i use a spray bottle. i will get a misting system when i get her new enclosure Mist King is worth every penny of it’s price which i don’t want to put off longer that another month or two that way i can be completely consistent with the misting and everything on the weekends as well as week days. I use all live plants mostly pathos and some other type of chameleon safe plant my sister had gotten but idk what it’s called. Ok Hey basking branch probably rests at like 5 foot 3 inches off the ground she’s about eye lever with me for now. it’s by a window but the window stays closed and she’s in the living room but it’s not a lot of foot traffic it’s just me and my boyfriend and we work weekdays till five and we’re pretty mellow people so we’re not moving around and don’t to much her placement also seems kinda snug too so if she was going to be in the living room i feel like she’s in the perfect spot to be. there is a vent not right under here but beside her off to the side. And I live in Virginia. goldilocks zone very neutral weather not to hot not to cold. Ok one thing that does bother me is there i la a gnat flying around her inclosure i think from the water and humidity the plants don’t seem overly wet but still there is a gnat. Soil gnat! They quickly multiply. Get a drosera capensis sundew plant and sit it next to her enclosure. Mosquito bits work well at reducing/eliminating the gnats. She is rubbing her eye on branches when i give her eye drops which were prescribed three times a day. Hopefully this will resolve with correct supplementation. when i gave her her shot friday she opened her mouth at me and her saliva looked sticky. Is a common symptom of RI. Antibiotics generally need about 3+ doses before showing any improvements, so as long as she isn’t getting worse, hang in there. My brain is exceptionally tired right now, so I’ll be ending this here. Perhaps @kinyonga can offer some of her wisdom and knowledge.

 

[myk2slick]

My replies will be bold.
Her injections have been on her side right by her upper arm in her rib cage area. That seems an odd place to me. Usually and as far as I’m aware, injections are given in the front arms, around bicep area. @kinyonga does this seem ok to you - to give antibiotic injection in the ribs? She got her first dose on Monday around 5 pm and is supposed to receive it every 72 hours so she just got another one Friday and her next one will be Monday. It’s being stored in the freezer and thawed out right before i give it to her. Very good She’s a female Veiled chameleon at least four months old. She looks older than that and maybe at least 6 months or so. I’ve had her for almost a month probably. I have handled her a couple times since i’ve had her mainly for the shot and when she first got her to set up her cage only one other time just to handle her to handle her. once her medication is over i don’t plan on handling her more than once or twice a month. You’ll want to work on building and then maintaining trust with her. https://www.chameleonforums.com/blogs/building-trust-with-your-chameleon.2396/ While our veileds are usually always spicy, it does help reduce stress to have some trust with them and also to be confident when handling. I’m feeding her primarily crickets i’ve gut loaded and grapes and blueberries for hydration. Do you mean you give the crickets the grapes and berries? Basically any fresh produce will hydrate your feeder insects. I feed all of mine primarily fresh produce and just a little bit of fruit. The Mazuri is a decent bug food. I do advise giving your pretty girl more variety of feeders though. I randomly kind of rotate my staple feeders. All of my chams are adults and they are all fed the same - the equivalent of 3-4 feeders 3 days a week plus treats. I choose to give smaller feeders so I actually give more of them. This not only has kept my ladies from producing eggs, but keeps my boys fit and trim. The brand for the gut load for the crickets is “Mazuri better big gut loading diet”. and i’m giving the super worms grapes and blueberries too and the gut load but i only give them to her as treats. I’m dusting everything she eats with Calcium Powder without D-3 daily brand named “Repti-calcium” Ok, this is perfect and Calcium Powder with D-3 once a month brand name “Zoo Meds”. While there’s nothing wrong with the actual supplement, it does need to be given twice a month and there’s a much easier way that I advise using. You are lacking a multivitamin and her eye problem possibly could be from lack of vitamin A. Not all vitamin A’s are the same. One type is plant based (proformed) and it’s suspected that chams can’t utilize this form. The other is protein based (preformed) and we know they can use it…but it needs to be given cautiously. Like vitamin D3, preformed vitamin A is fat soluble and can easily build up to toxic levels. So, having said all that, I advise tossing aside the calcium with D3. Get a bottle of Repashy Calcium Plus LoD (has a Jackson’s cham on the label) and lightly dust 1 feeding every other week (or twice a month). That will meet her multivitamin and vitamin D3 needs all in one. Of her eye problem is due to a vitamin A deficiency, it should clear up over a bit of time. I’m giving her two in the morning along with whatever she didn’t eat the night before and once i get home from work around 5 i give her two more if she has eatin them all she’s around 6 large crickets a day. She’s at that tricky age. You need to feed her enough so that grows well, but not too much that she starts producing large amounts of eggs. So, feed her just once in the morning and I would start reducing her diet to every other day. If you haven’t yet read it, here’s my blog about egg laying. https://www.chameleonforums.com/blogs/veiled-chameleon-laying-101.2488/ This seems like a good place to break this up.

about the placement of where her injection is given that is we’re the vet showed me how to give it when he gave her the first dose. Are you sure that it’s incorrect?

 

[myk2slick]

about the placement of where her injection is given that is we’re the vet showed me how to give it when he gave her the first dose. Are you sure that it’s incorrect?

ribs might have been the wrong description this is we’re in referring to

 

[myk2slick]

My replies will be bold.
Her injections have been on her side right by her upper arm in her rib cage area. That seems an odd place to me. Usually and as far as I’m aware, injections are given in the front arms, around bicep area. @kinyonga does this seem ok to you - to give antibiotic injection in the ribs? She got her first dose on Monday around 5 pm and is supposed to receive it every 72 hours so she just got another one Friday and her next one will be Monday. It’s being stored in the freezer and thawed out right before i give it to her. Very good She’s a female Veiled chameleon at least four months old. She looks older than that and maybe at least 6 months or so. I’ve had her for almost a month probably. I have handled her a couple times since i’ve had her mainly for the shot and when she first got her to set up her cage only one other time just to handle her to handle her. once her medication is over i don’t plan on handling her more than once or twice a month. You’ll want to work on building and then maintaining trust with her. https://www.chameleonforums.com/blogs/building-trust-with-your-chameleon.2396/ While our veileds are usually always spicy, it does help reduce stress to have some trust with them and also to be confident when handling. I’m feeding her primarily crickets i’ve gut loaded and grapes and blueberries for hydration. Do you mean you give the crickets the grapes and berries? Basically any fresh produce will hydrate your feeder insects. I feed all of mine primarily fresh produce and just a little bit of fruit. The Mazuri is a decent bug food. I do advise giving your pretty girl more variety of feeders though. I randomly kind of rotate my staple feeders. All of my chams are adults and they are all fed the same - the equivalent of 3-4 feeders 3 days a week plus treats. I choose to give smaller feeders so I actually give more of them. This not only has kept my ladies from producing eggs, but keeps my boys fit and trim. The brand for the gut load for the crickets is “Mazuri better big gut loading diet”. and i’m giving the super worms grapes and blueberries too and the gut load but i only give them to her as treats. I’m dusting everything she eats with Calcium Powder without D-3 daily brand named “Repti-calcium” Ok, this is perfect and Calcium Powder with D-3 once a month brand name “Zoo Meds”. While there’s nothing wrong with the actual supplement, it does need to be given twice a month and there’s a much easier way that I advise using. You are lacking a multivitamin and her eye problem possibly could be from lack of vitamin A. Not all vitamin A’s are the same. One type is plant based (proformed) and it’s suspected that chams can’t utilize this form. The other is protein based (preformed) and we know they can use it…but it needs to be given cautiously. Like vitamin D3, preformed vitamin A is fat soluble and can easily build up to toxic levels. So, having said all that, I advise tossing aside the calcium with D3. Get a bottle of Repashy Calcium Plus LoD (has a Jackson’s cham on the label) and lightly dust 1 feeding every other week (or twice a month). That will meet her multivitamin and vitamin D3 needs all in one. Of her eye problem is due to a vitamin A deficiency, it should clear up over a bit of time. I’m giving her two in the morning along with whatever she didn’t eat the night before and once i get home from work around 5 i give her two more if she has eatin them all she’s around 6 large crickets a day. She’s at that tricky age. You need to feed her enough so that grows well, but not too much that she starts producing large amounts of eggs. So, feed her just once in the morning and I would start reducing her diet to every other day. If you haven’t yet read it, here’s my blog about egg laying. https://www.chameleonforums.com/blogs/veiled-chameleon-laying-101.2488/ This seems like a good place to break this up.

do you mean two large crickets every other day in the morning and then treat worms like once a week?

 

[MissSkittles]

about the placement of where her injection is given that is we’re the vet showed me how to give it when he gave her the first dose. Are you sure that it’s incorrect?

Honestly I don’t know, which is why I tagged one of the most experienced members. She must not have been on, so let me try @jannb - is that (see OP pic above) an acceptable site to give antibiotic injections? I’m only aware that they are given in the front legs and never the back legs or tail.

do you mean two large crickets every other day in the morning and then treat worms like once a week?

That wouldn’t be quite enough and I see how I wasn’t clear - sorry. For now, feed her the same amount, but start cutting her back to being fed every other day. Then follow what I advise in my laying blog. I give my crew small-medium sized feeders, so I will give them 5-6 of them, but it all depends on the size of the bugs. For example, my bsfl are med size, so I’ll give maybe 3 of them along with 3 med (about 1/2”) crickets. My superworms are pretty small, so this past Saturday I gave them each 2, instead of the usual 1. Since I also have leopard geckos, I need to take into account their need for smaller feeders, plus my chameleons have an easier time swallowing the smaller bugs.

 

[myk2slick]

Honestly I don’t know, which is why I tagged one of the most experienced members. She must not have been on, so let me try @jannb - is that (see OP pic above) an acceptable site to give antibiotic injections? I’m only aware that they are given in the front legs and never the back legs or tail.

That wouldn’t be quite enough and I see how I wasn’t clear - sorry. For now, feed her the same amount, but start cutting her back to being fed every other day. Then follow what I advise in my laying blog. I give my crew small-medium sized feeders, so I will give them 5-6 of them, but it all depends on the size of the bugs. For example, my bsfl are med size, so I’ll give maybe 3 of them along with 3 med (about 1/2”) crickets. My superworms are pretty small, so this past Saturday I gave them each 2, instead of the usual 1. Since I also have leopard geckos, I need to take into account their need for smaller feeders, plus my chameleons have an easier time swallowing the smaller bugs.

Okay! Thank you for clarifying do you have a preferred website you order from? my local petsense carrie’s crickets and dubia roaches and super worms and horn worms but i feel hesitant buying commercial in case there’s something wrong with the bugs

 

[jannb]

about the placement of where her injection is given that is we’re the vet showed me how to give it when he gave her the first dose. Are you sure that it’s incorrect?

A video from an exotic vet shows how to do the injection.

 

[myk2slick]

A video from an exotic vet shows how to do the injection.

okay thank you! i also noticed she said sometimes in the location i was instructed to give it in so that makes me feel better

 

[MissSkittles]

Thank you @jannb