Question to Vets and Experts.

If you know its supposed to look white and black why ask? The chameleon is dehydrated, thats the most I can tell from that picture, you should get a fecal done.
 
I have the dripper running all day, I do not have the mister yet, mistking is on backorder. I spray him when I go to work in the morning and couple of time in the evening.
 
Try feeding hornworms or silk worms and gutload feeders well with fresh veggies.

Extend the misting from whatever it was to at least five minutes and see if it improves. I also vote a fecal.
 
The urate is very white at the end.
The animal has not eliminated in at least 5 days and so the more colored urate matter has been in him for awhile.
I think it's fine. This happens when an animal does not "go" for several days or weeks.

-Brad
 
You throw two or three crickets of appropriate size into his enclosure and walk away. If he's comfortable enough, he will eat in front of you but sometimes they will only eat on their own time, when nothing else is distracting them. If you continue to see feces like that, then you should be doing ok.

Luis
 
My jackson was always shy to eat in front of me... Most new chams are, ESPECIALLY WC.

Time alone and space... let him see you, but don't hover over his cage and expect him not to look at you the entire time like 'WTF ARE YOU?!"
 
That completely makes sense, however, I put 5 crickets in the morning and leave to work, no one in the house to bother him for the next 9 hours and even then I open the cage to spray around, but when I comeback I see 5 crickets in the cage.
 
Brad Ramsey said:
The urate is very white at the end.
The animal has not eliminated in at least 5 days and so the more colored urate matter has been in him for awhile.
I think it's fine. This happens when an animal does not "go" for several days or weeks.

-Brad
Click to expand...

I am glad this is the case - I have been thinking about this for some time and had come to the same conclusion. I think a lot of keepers, especially newbies, are concerned about this as it's always suggested that urates should be completely white. This has set my mind at rest even more now. Thanks for the confirmation, Brad.:D
 
At what height is the top of the cage relative to your room floor? The cage located in my kid room. Currently it is on the floor.
History – I got the chameleon at the Pomona reptile show on Saturday the 9th. I bought from FL Chams. The sales guy told me that the chameleon was wild caught in Hawaii.
Not at all I just bought him and he is in the cage acclimating.
That completely makes sense, however, I put 5 crickets in the morning and leave to work, no one in the house to bother him for the next 9 hours and even then I open the cage to spray around, but when I comeback I see 5 crickets in the cage.
Click to expand...

Raise the cage on a table atleast a few feet from the ground. It will give the lizard a sense of security from predators and prevent draughts and cold rising into the cage.
Poo is fine, its not dehydrated. A dripper wouldnt hurt though, and regular mistings.
Its only been in your care a week or so acclimating, it's WC, im not surprised its not keen to eat right away.
Im crickets havent been its main menu item in Hawaii either. Perhaps aquire some different feeders and offer those. You could start with offering those or crickets in a cup suspended below the basking perch.
If the temps are good, Im sure it will eat when it settles into its new enviroment.
Having a poo examined by your vet to determin parasite load & treatment as nessary is also a great Idea asap, since most wild lizards carry parasites, and the stress of acclimation to captivity can lower the immune response, resulting in illness from the parasites that would not have bothered it before.
best wishes
 
SUCCESS!!!

I came home and look really hard all around the cage and could not find the 5 crickets I put there in the morning. So, I assume he ate them.

Below it the updated picture of the setup. The room temperature is 72 degrees and the temp under the basking light is 81 degrees.

I live in the L.A. Valley area and was told there is a good vet in Calabasas, but it is about 20 miles away from me. Does anyone knows a good vet around Northridge area. How do I preserve the poo in case I cannot get to the wet right a way?
 
So I called these guys http://www.adlervetgroup.com/, it seems like they get a lot of good reviews. I asked if I can bring the fecal sample to get it tested and was told that first I have bring the chameleon for the examination and then they can do the test. The chameleon just started to eat, should I wait a month or so before taking him, I do not want stress the guy again.

Any suggestions?

Also just in case what is best way to transform the chameleons so they do not get stressed much?
 
summoner12 said:
Time alone and space... let him see you, but don't hover over his cage and expect him not to look at you the entire time like 'WTF ARE YOU?!"
Click to expand...

Lmao, very true. Letting him chill on his own is best. Juicy offers like goliath or silk worms would totally help tho. I know cod liver oil can also help start his bowl movements on a regular basis again along with helping his appetite. (Ex. put a drop or two the worm hes about to eat, or when he's drinking water off a leaf, place drop near his tongue where he is licking)
 
QuioteCham said:
Lmao, very true. Letting him chill on his own is best. Juicy offers like goliath or silk worms would totally help tho. I know cod liver oil can also help start his bowl movements on a regular basis again along with helping his appetite. (Ex. put a drop or two the worm hes about to eat, or when he's drinking water off a leaf, place drop near his tongue where he is licking)
Click to expand...

I bought the meal worms and horn worms. Will try those, but so far he ate 5 crickets yesterday and 3 this morning as soon as I dropped them in to cage.

Can someone answer my post about the vet? what should I do? should I take him now get it examined and get parasite check or take him after he acclimates little longer?
 
As far as vet goes... for the So. Cal area there are 2 who are very knowledgeable and trusted chameleon vets. Dr. Greek (Yorba Linda) and Dr. Stein (Beverly Hills). I would pm 'chamelisa', she runs a chameleon rescue and I think she goes to a vet closer to your area.

As far as the vet recommended Dr. Brown that is the first time I ever heard his name. You are better off taking the drive. Reassurance alone is well worth the trip knowing that you went to a qualified vet that knows what they are talking about when it comes to chameleons. After all there are over 30 or 40 SBCK members who will highly recommend either of the two vets mentioned above.

It is always good to have a new animal's fecal checked. Any signs of ill health will usually show up under the microscope way before it shows up physically on the outside.
 
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