Poop looks hard???

Amccurry

Member
Hi everyone! I have had my chameleon for about a week now! He’s probably a month old. I feed him silk worms and mealworms and of course I give him the vitamins and supplements he needs. I have a dripper that I refill every day and I spray his cage 2 times a day (morning and when I come home from work) really hitting the leaves. But overall I don’t think he’s drinking!!! I have no idea why. But his poop is very hard and there is a little yellow attached to it. If anyone has any advice on what is going on please let me know!!!
 

Klyde O'Scope

Chameleon Enthusiast
The little yellow (should be more white/off-white with yellowish tinge) is urate; reptiles don't urinate.
He may be a little dehydrated.

It's not uncommon for chameleons (especially young) not to eat or drink in front of us; they see us as predators who want to EAT them, so they prefer to eat & drink when more relaxed (i.e. when we're not around.

A month is generally considered too young; folks here prefer 3 months before sale to get past a few potential rough spots.

If you'd care to, many folks get a husbandry review to tighten up their husbandry. Just copy/paste the following questions (with your answers) and please include pics of your cham and enclosure from top (showing lighting) to bottom (showing floor/substrate/drainage). THX.

Chameleon Info:

  • Your Chameleon - The species, sex, and age of your chameleon. How long has it been in your care?
  • Handling - How often do you handle your chameleon?
  • Feeding - What are you feeding your cham? What amount? What is the schedule? How are you gut-loading your feeders?
  • Supplements - What brand and type of calcium and vitamin products are you dusting your feeders with and what is the schedule?
  • Watering - What kind of watering technique do you use? How often and how long to you mist? Do you see your chameleon drinking?
  • Fecal Description - Briefly note colors and consistency from recent droppings. Has this chameleon ever been tested for parasites?
  • History - Any previous information about your cham that might be useful to others when trying to help you.

Cage Info:

  • Cage Type - Describe your cage (Glass, Screen, Combo?) What are the dimensions?
  • Lighting - What brand, model, and types of lighting are you using? What is your daily lighting schedule?
  • Temperature - What temp range have you created (cage floor to basking spot)? Lowest overnight temp? How do you measure these temps?
  • Humidity - What are your humidity levels? How are you creating and maintaining these levels? What do you use to measure humidity?
  • Plants - Are you using live plants? If so, what kind?
  • Placement - Where is your cage located? Is it near any fans, air vents, or high traffic areas? At what height is the top of the cage relative to your room floor?
  • Location - Where are you geographically located?

Current Problem - The current problem you are concerned about.

--------------

Please Note:

  1. The more details you provide the better and more accurate help you will receive.
  2. Photos can be very helpful.
 

Amccurry

Member
The little yellow (should be more white/off-white with yellowish tinge) is urate; reptiles don't urinate.
He may be a little dehydrated.

It's not uncommon for chameleons (especially young) not to eat or drink in front of us; they see us as predators who want to EAT them, so they prefer to eat & drink when more relaxed (i.e. when we're not around.

A month is generally considered too young; folks here prefer 3 months before sale to get past a few potential rough spots.

If you'd care to, many folks get a husbandry review to tighten up their husbandry. Just copy/paste the following questions (with your answers) and please include pics of your cham and enclosure from top (showing lighting) to bottom (showing floor/substrate/drainage). THX.

Chameleon Info:

  • Your Chameleon - The species, sex, and age of your chameleon. How long has it been in your care?
  • Handling - How often do you handle your chameleon?
  • Feeding - What are you feeding your cham? What amount? What is the schedule? How are you gut-loading your feeders?
  • Supplements - What brand and type of calcium and vitamin products are you dusting your feeders with and what is the schedule?
  • Watering - What kind of watering technique do you use? How often and how long to you mist? Do you see your chameleon drinking?
  • Fecal Description - Briefly note colors and consistency from recent droppings. Has this chameleon ever been tested for parasites?
  • History - Any previous information about your cham that might be useful to others when trying to help you.

Cage Info:

  • Cage Type - Describe your cage (Glass, Screen, Combo?) What are the dimensions?
  • Lighting - What brand, model, and types of lighting are you using? What is your daily lighting schedule?
  • Temperature - What temp range have you created (cage floor to basking spot)? Lowest overnight temp? How do you measure these temps?
  • Humidity - What are your humidity levels? How are you creating and maintaining these levels? What do you use to measure humidity?
  • Plants - Are you using live plants? If so, what kind?
  • Placement - Where is your cage located? Is it near any fans, air vents, or high traffic areas? At what height is the top of the cage relative to your room floor?
  • Location - Where are you geographically located?

Current Problem - The current problem you are concerned about.

--------------

Please Note:

  1. The more details you provide the better and more accurate help you will receive.
  2. Photos can be very helpful.
Thank you so much! I think he’s a month only because the pet store told me they only had him for a couple weeks but let me answer all the questions.
 

Amccurry

Member
Chameleon Info:

  • Your Chameleon - Veiled chameleon, I think a boy, he’s I think a month (not sure), he’s been in my care for a week!
  • Handling - Never! I leave him alone most of the day too so he can do his thing.
  • Feeding - Mealworms and silk worms. For meal worms, I fill the bowl and for the silk worms about 3 cut in half. I put everything in a bowl above ground (how they did it at the pet store aka what he’s used to.).
  • Supplements -I dust them with calcium and D3. About once every other day.
  • Watering - I use the dripper (fill it every day) and I spray his terrarium twice a day making sure to hit the leaves.
  • Fecal Description - they are dark brown with white/yellow pieces attached. Looks very dry though. He’s never been tested that I’m aware of.
  • History - no

Cage Info:

  • Cage Type - glass 20 gallon vertical cage.
  • Lighting - honestly not super sure but my temperature meter says about 80-85 degrees and he’s by my window (I live in Florida). 12 hours on 12 hours off
  • Temperature - i have a basking area and an area hidden with lots of shade. The highest seems to be 85 and the lowest is about 72.
  • Humidity - the levels are 50-60.
  • Plants - Lots of fake plants and fake moss.
  • Placement - he’s in my room by a window (no traffic besides me sleeping). Hes near no fans but I do have a fan In my terrarium to circulate the air.
  • Location - South Florida

Current Problem - I’m concerned about his poop because I can’t tell if he’s drinking since I leave him alone. He seems happy but he’s clearly scared of me (which I understand). Should I do anything better? Am I doing anything wrong?
 

Amccurry

Member
The little yellow (should be more white/off-white with yellowish tinge) is urate; reptiles don't urinate.
He may be a little dehydrated.

It's not uncommon for chameleons (especially young) not to eat or drink in front of us; they see us as predators who want to EAT them, so they prefer to eat & drink when more relaxed (i.e. when we're not around.

A month is generally considered too young; folks here prefer 3 months before sale to get past a few potential rough spots.

If you'd care to, many folks get a husbandry review to tighten up their husbandry. Just copy/paste the following questions (with your answers) and please include pics of your cham and enclosure from top (showing lighting) to bottom (showing floor/substrate/drainage). THX.

Chameleon Info:

  • Your Chameleon - The species, sex, and age of your chameleon. How long has it been in your care?
  • Handling - How often do you handle your chameleon?
  • Feeding - What are you feeding your cham? What amount? What is the schedule? How are you gut-loading your feeders?
  • Supplements - What brand and type of calcium and vitamin products are you dusting your feeders with and what is the schedule?
  • Watering - What kind of watering technique do you use? How often and how long to you mist? Do you see your chameleon drinking?
  • Fecal Description - Briefly note colors and consistency from recent droppings. Has this chameleon ever been tested for parasites?
  • History - Any previous information about your cham that might be useful to others when trying to help you.

Cage Info:

  • Cage Type - Describe your cage (Glass, Screen, Combo?) What are the dimensions?
  • Lighting - What brand, model, and types of lighting are you using? What is your daily lighting schedule?
  • Temperature - What temp range have you created (cage floor to basking spot)? Lowest overnight temp? How do you measure these temps?
  • Humidity - What are your humidity levels? How are you creating and maintaining these levels? What do you use to measure humidity?
  • Plants - Are you using live plants? If so, what kind?
  • Placement - Where is your cage located? Is it near any fans, air vents, or high traffic areas? At what height is the top of the cage relative to your room floor?
  • Location - Where are you geographically located?

Current Problem - The current problem you are concerned about.

--------------

Please Note:

  1. The more details you provide the better and more accurate help you will receive.
  2. Photos can be very helpful.
Ok I just attached more information!
 

Klyde O'Scope

Chameleon Enthusiast
Chameleon Info:

  • Your Chameleon - Veiled chameleon, I think a boy, he’s I think a month (not sure), he’s been in my care for a week!
A male veiled will have tiny spurs on the "heels" of his back feet.
1618067444184.png

Source: https://aminoapps.com/c/reptiles/page/item/veiled-chameleon-care/L2Yx_Y4lHBIGJwzwN7lMr8Z7rWkwnx2rjEr
  • Handling - Never! I leave him alone most of the day too so he can do his thing.
  • Feeding - Mealworms and silk worms. For meal worms, I fill the bowl and for the silk worms about 3 cut in half. I put everything in a bowl above ground (how they did it at the pet store aka what he’s used to.).
Mealworms won't hurt occasionally. Here are some charts on best feeders & gutloading them:
https://www.chameleonforums.com/care/images/
  • Supplements -I dust them with calcium and D3. About once every other day.
Too much D3. You'll need some calcium without D3 or phosphorus. A good system is pick a day of the week (I use Sundays BC that's the day I clean enclosures).
Alternate Sundays get calcium with D3 or multi-vitamins (not both)
Every other day of the month dust with calcium without D3.
  • Watering - I use the dripper (fill it every day) and I spray his terrarium twice a day making sure to hit the leaves.
  • Fecal Description - they are dark brown with white/yellow pieces attached. Looks very dry though. He’s never been tested that I’m aware of.
  • History - no

Cage Info:

  • Cage Type - glass 20 gallon vertical cage.
Very soon you'll need to upgrade to a larger enclosure. Minimum of 24"x24"x48"H All-screen is OK depending on where you are; hybrid (solid sides & back, screen top & front panel) is usually easier to control the environment.
  • Lighting - honestly not super sure but my temperature meter says about 80-85 degrees and he’s by my window (I live in Florida). 12 hours on 12 hours off
12/12 is good. You should have a T5 HO linear UVB, either 5.0 or 6%. This is to prevent MBD.
Temps are good.
  • Temperature - i have a basking area and an area hidden with lots of shade. The highest seems to be 85 and the lowest is about 72.
Excellent!
  • Humidity - the levels are 50-60.
That's good for daytime; nighttime should be 70%+ Good news is you live in FL and when nighttime temps drop, humidity goes up.
It's be a good idea to use a couple/few digital hygrometers with probes. The all have integral thermometers as well, but they're far better than analog dial types, which can be notoriously inaccurate.
  • Plants - Lots of fake plants and fake moss.
Nope. Get real plants & vines only, especially with a veiled.
Live plants help increase and maintain humidity.
Here are 3 lists of chameleon-safe plants from reputable sources:
https://chameleonacademy.com/plants/
https://www.madcham.de/en/pflanzen-fuers-terrarium/
https://www.chameleons.info/l/safe-and-unsafe-plants/
  • Placement - he’s in my room by a window (no traffic besides me sleeping). Hes near no fans but I do have a fan In my terrarium to circulate the air.
Air changes with fresh air is healthier, which is why glass enclosures are frowned upon with chameleons. Their habitat is so humid & warm, some nasty stuff can grow.
  • Location - South Florida

Current Problem - I’m concerned about his poop because I can’t tell if he’s drinking since I leave him alone. He seems happy but he’s clearly scared of me (which I understand). Should I do anything better? Am I doing anything wrong?

Other folks may have some other input, which is good. ;)
 

Amccurry

Member
A male veiled will have tiny spurs on the "heels" of his back feet.
View attachment 298219
Source: https://aminoapps.com/c/reptiles/page/item/veiled-chameleon-care/L2Yx_Y4lHBIGJwzwN7lMr8Z7rWkwnx2rjEr

Mealworms won't hurt occasionally. Here are some charts on best feeders & gutloading them:
https://www.chameleonforums.com/care/images/

Too much D3. You'll need some calcium without D3 or phosphorus. A good system is pick a day of the week (I use Sundays BC that's the day I clean enclosures).
Alternate Sundays get calcium with D3 or multi-vitamins (not both)
Every other day of the month dust with calcium without D3.

Very soon you'll need to upgrade to a larger enclosure. Minimum of 24"x24"x48"H All-screen is OK depending on where you are; hybrid (solid sides & back, screen top & front panel) is usually easier to control the environment.

12/12 is good. You should have a T5 HO linear UVB, either 5.0 or 6%. This is to prevent MBD.
Temps are good.

Excellent!

That's good for daytime; nighttime should be 70%+ Good news is you live in FL and when nighttime temps drop, humidity goes up.
It's be a good idea to use a couple/few digital hygrometers with probes. The all have integral thermometers as well, but they're far better than analog dial types, which can be notoriously inaccurate.

Nope. Get real plants & vines only, especially with a veiled.
Live plants help increase and maintain humidity.
Here are 3 lists of chameleon-safe plants from reputable sources:
https://chameleonacademy.com/plants/
https://www.madcham.de/en/pflanzen-fuers-terrarium/
https://www.chameleons.info/l/safe-and-unsafe-plants/

Air changes with fresh air is healthier, which is why glass enclosures are frowned upon with chameleons. Their habitat is so humid & warm, some nasty stuff can grow.


Other folks may have some other input, which is good. ;)
Thank you so much! I do clean his tank every week aka today! But I def will take note on his food, real plants, size of his terrarium, and the calcium!!!
 

kinyonga

Chameleon Queen
Your Chameleon - Veiled chameleon, I think a boy, he’s I think a month (not sure), he’s been in my care for a week! ABOVE YOU SAID HES LIKELY ABOUT A MONTH OLD. CAN YOU POST A PHITO OF HIM PLEASE. DOES HE HAVE TARSAL SPURS ON HIS BACK FEET?

Handling - Never! I leave him alone most of the day too so he can do his thing.

Feeding - Mealworms and silk worms. For meal worms, I fill the bowl and for the silk worms about 3 cut in half. I put everything in a bowl above ground (how they did it at the pet store aka what he’s used to.). YOU COULD ADD SMALL SILKWORMS, BSFL, SMALL ROACHES, ETC.

Supplements -I dust them with calcium and D3. About once every other day. YOU SHOULD BE DUSTING THE INSECTS AT EVERY FEEDING BUT INE A WEEK WITH PHIS FREE CALCIUM AND ON THAT ONE FEEDING A WEEK ALTERNATE BETWEEN A PHOS FREE CALCIUM/D3 POWDER AND A VITAMIN POWDER WITH A PREFORMED SOURCE IF VITAMIN A. ALL DONE LIGHTLY!!

Watering - I use the dripper (fill it every day) and I spray his terrarium twice a day making sure to hit the leaves. DO YOU SEE HIM DRINKING.

Fecal Description - they are dark brown with white/yellow pieces attached. Looks very dry though. He’s never been tested that I’m aware of. IF THE URATE PART IS WHITE OR JUST A LITTLE BIT ORANGE HE'S HYDRATED.

History - no

Cage Info:
Cage Type - glass 20 gallon vertical cage. PHOTO PLEASE

Lighting - honestly not super sure but my temperature meter says about 80-85 degrees and he’s by my window (I live in Florida). 12 hours on 12 hours off WE NEED TO KNOW WHAT THE LIGHTS ARE...BRAND NAME...IS THE UVB LIGHT LONG AND LINEAR OR CURLY AND COMPACT? WHAT COLOR DOES THE BASKING BULB PRODUCE.

Temperature - i have a basking area and an area hidden with lots of shade. The highest seems to be 85 and the lowest is about 72.

Humidity - the levels are 50-60.

Plants - Lots of fake plants and fake moss. YOU SHOULD HAVE REAL PLANTS SO YOUR CHAMELEON WONT NIBBLE IN THE FAKE ONES AND GET IMPACTED. THIS INCLUDES THE MOSS. THE REAL PLANTS SHOULD BE NON TOXIC AND WELL WASHED BOTH SIDES OF THE LEAVES.

Placement - he’s in my room by a window (no traffic besides me sleeping). Hes near no fans but I do have a fan In my terrarium to circulate the air. THE SUN SHOULDN'T SHINE ON A GLASS CAGE DIRECTLY OR YOU COULD OVERHEAT THE CHAMELEON AND KILL IT.

Location - South Florida


Current Problem - I’m concerned about his poop because I can’t tell if he’s drinking since I leave him alone. He seems happy but he’s clearly scared of me (which I understand). Should I do anything better? Am I doing anything wrong?
THE POOP MIGHT BE DRY BECAUSE OF WHAT YOURE FEEDING THE CHAMELEON.
 
Last edited:

Amccurry

Member
Your Chameleon - Veiled chameleon, I think a boy, he’s I think a month (not sure), he’s been in my care for a week! ABOVE YOU SAID HES LIKELY ABOUT A MONTH OLD. CAN YOU POST A PHITO OF HIM PLEASE. DOES HE HAVE TARSAL SPURS ON HIS BACK FEET?

Handling - Never! I leave him alone most of the day too so he can do his thing.

Feeding - Mealworms and silk worms. For meal worms, I fill the bowl and for the silk worms about 3 cut in half. I put everything in a bowl above ground (how they did it at the pet store aka what he’s used to.). YOU COULD ADD SMALL SILKWORMS, BSFL, SMALL ROACHES, ETC.

Supplements -I dust them with calcium and D3. About once every other day. YOUNSHOULD BE DUSTING THE INSECTS AT EVERY FEEDING BUT INE A WEEK WITH PHIS FREE CALCIUM AND ON THAT ONE FEEDING A WEEK ALTERNATE BETWEEN A PHOS FREE CALCIUM/D3 POWDER AND A VITAMIN POWDER WITH A PREFORMED SOURCE IF VITAMIN A. ALL DONE LIGHTLY!!

Watering - I use the dripper (fill it every day) and I spray his terrarium twice a day making sure to hit the leaves. DO YOU SEE HIM DRINKING.

Fecal Description - they are dark brown with white/yellow pieces attached. Looks very dry though. He’s never been tested that I’m aware of. IF THE URATE PART IS WHITE OR JUST A LITTLE BIT ORANGE HE'S HYDRATED.

History - no

Cage Info:
Cage Type - glass 20 gallon vertical cage. PHOTO PLEASE

Lighting - honestly not super sure but my temperature meter says about 80-85 degrees and he’s by my window (I live in Florida). 12 hours on 12 hours off WE NEED TO KNOW WHAT THE LIGHTS ARE...BRAND NAME...IS THE UVB LIGHT LONG AND LINEAR OR CURLY AND COMPACT? WHAT COLOR DOES THE BASKING BULB PRODUCE.

Temperature - i have a basking area and an area hidden with lots of shade. The highest seems to be 85 and the lowest is about 72.

Humidity - the levels are 50-60.

Plants - Lots of fake plants and fake moss. YOU SHOULD HAVE REAL PLANTS SO YOUR CHAMELEON WONT NIBBLE IN THE FAKE ONES AND GET IMPACTED. THIS INCLUDES THE MOSS. THE REAL PLANTS SHOULD BE NON TOXIC AND WELL WASHED BOTH SIDES OF THE LEAVES.

Placement - he’s in my room by a window (no traffic besides me sleeping). Hes near no fans but I do have a fan In my terrarium to circulate the air. THE SUN SHOULDN'T SHINE ON A GLASS CAGE DIRECTLY OR YOU COULD OVERHEAT THE CHAMELEON AND KILL IT.

Location - South Florida


Current Problem - I’m concerned about his poop because I can’t tell if he’s drinking since I leave him alone. He seems happy but he’s clearly scared of me (which I understand). Should I do anything better? Am I doing anything wrong?
THE POOP MIGHT BE DRY BECAUSE OF WHAT YOURE FEEDING THE CHAMELEON.
image.jpg
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He now only eats crickets and gets regular calcium dusted everyday with d3 and vitamins every 2 weeks. I took out the dripper and now spray the tank and leaves. He seems to be drinking since I do see some yellow on his poop. The sun doesn’t shine, I keep my blinds closed and I’m working on getting real plants but I have Covid atm.
 

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kinyonga

Chameleon Queen
You said..."He now only eats crickets and gets regular calcium dusted everyday with d3 and vitamins every 2 weeks"... I would recommend the schedule I gave you. If you give too much D3 or have an imbalance in the D3, calcium, PHIS and vitamin Ahe can develop MBD.

You said..."I took out the dripper and now spray the tank and leaves. He seems to be drinking since I do see some yellow on his poop"...the whiter the urates are the more hydrated the chameleon is, but you can over hydrate them too.

You said..."The sun doesn’t shine, I keep my blinds closed and I’m working on getting real plants but I have Covid atm."...ok.

Why do you have a water dish in the cage. It's not recommended. Too much of a chance of bacteria.
The lights should be white and the UVB should be a long linear tube light...either a Reptisun 5.0"or an Arcadia 6.
 

Amccurry

Member
You said..."He now only eats crickets and gets regular calcium dusted everyday with d3 and vitamins every 2 weeks"... I would recommend the schedule I gave you. If you give too much D3 or have an imbalance in the D3, calcium, PHIS and vitamin Ahe can develop MBD.

You said..."I took out the dripper and now spray the tank and leaves. He seems to be drinking since I do see some yellow on his poop"...the whiter the urates are the more hydrated the chameleon is, but you can over hydrate them too.

You said..."The sun doesn’t shine, I keep my blinds closed and I’m working on getting real plants but I have Covid atm."...ok.

Why do you have a water dish in the cage. It's not recommended. Too much of a chance of bacteria.
The lights should be white and the UVB should be a long linear tube light...either a Reptisun 5.0"or an Arcadia 6.
Someone recommended the it and he likes to walk through it so I keep it and clean it everyday. My lights are white! But I can get a longer one.
 

kinyonga

Chameleon Queen
The one bulb in the photo is blue.
The other is a compact and I'll not give the right UVB light. You should have one of the two I recommended.
Still not a fan of the water dish.
 

Amccurry

Member
The one bulb in the photo is blue.
The other is a compact and I'll not give the right UVB light. You should have one of the two I recommended.
Still not a fan of the water dish.
I will looking into getting those! Thank you!
9502F242-BF64-45D5-8D61-6ED6C7846263.png

This one?
 

Amccurry

Member
I would say 24 because you need a bigger enclosure anyway... you will need at least a 4ft x 2 x 2 and will want the uvb to stretch across the whole thing
Perfect! That’s what I ordered. I’m going to get a bigger enclosure in a couple months. First off I don’t have the money to drop on it and second of all he’s young so it’s going to be OK and I’m also moving. So about June I’ll replace it and add a mister!
 

MissSkittles

Chameleon Enthusiast
No one has said anything about it, but why are you cutting the silkworms in half? Chameleons can handle eating long insects. If you think the silkworms are too round, you should get smaller ones. Also, cutting them in half kills them and chameleons only eat live bugs. Silkworms are a great feeder, but if you can’t get any the right size try other feeders for now like crickets, bsfl, baby roaches. The rule of thumb is if the feeder is larger than the space between the eyes, it’s too big. For long feeders like silkworms, hornworms etc, it’s the width or fatness of the feeder that counts.
 
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