Open Mouth

lenanguyen34

New Member
I would not dirt from my backyard. I would use about 10widex10deep inches of soil. And I would put it inside her enclosure behind some plants where she will feel secure. I would also get a scrap plant and put it planted in the play sand as they like to lay their eggs beside the roots and it adds extra privacy.

I do agree, if she has a lot of eggs inside her she may be having a hard time breathing and will open her mouth. If she has an RI she will open her mouth. If she is too hot she will open her mouth. But if you say her hottest spot is 80 then I do not think she is too hot. Does she have stringy saliva in her mouth?
No her mouth looks healthy and she only opens it for short periods of time and when she doesn't walk. I really think there's a lot of eggs in there. I have her in the lay bin now. That same bin has been sitting in her enclosure with a plant in it and sticks leading to it for at least 2 weeks. I just do not want her to be egg bound I love her so much and would hate that on her. I'm trying to make her as comfortable as possible. But yeah she is trapped in her lay ben currently
 

lenanguyen34

New Member
Can you take a picture of the lay bin and the entire enclosure lights down so we can see?

She looks hefty. How much are you feeding now and how often? Have you not reduced her back? RI means respiratory infection. But as already said if they are holding a lot of eggs this pushes up on their lungs.
Eats 5 medium dusted crickets daily sometimes I'll do a collard green salad with 3 super worms instead of the crickets. In the photo I am pointed at the bin she's in there currently. Also her big plant was removed so I could get her out and out her directly in the bin
 

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AmandaS

Moderator
Staff member
She looks like shes getting ready. She will lay on her own time, but I notice she is getting darker coloring, and that's a good sign.
 

AmandaS

Moderator
Staff member
Eats 5 medium dusted crickets daily sometimes I'll do a collard green salad with 3 super worms instead of the crickets. In the photo I am pointed at the bin she's in there currently. Also her big plant was removed so I could get her out and out her directly in the bin
There is not nearly enough privacy for her. She needs a ton more plants, and if you have one spare, you can out it directly into the lay bin.
 

Beman

Chameleon Enthusiast
Eats 5 medium dusted crickets daily sometimes I'll do a collard green salad with 3 super worms instead of the crickets. In the photo I am pointed at the bin she's in there currently. Also her big plant was removed so I could get her out and out her directly in the bin
So I hate to tell you but your enclosure is set up incorrectly for her. Looks like your using a T8 fixture and if that is the case the distance below basking is very specific or they do not get UVB they need. Listen to the keepers here for Laying advice... But I would start reading this husbandry program so you know how you need to set up her enclosure.

https://chameleonacademy.com/chameleon-husbandry-program-getting-started-with-chameleons/
 

Beman

Chameleon Enthusiast
Eats 5 medium dusted crickets daily sometimes I'll do a collard green salad with 3 super worms instead of the crickets. In the photo I am pointed at the bin she's in there currently. Also her big plant was removed so I could get her out and out her directly in the bin
She should only be eating every other day... No salad at all. And only 3 feeders each feeding day. I am betting she will have a larger clutch.
 

cham girl

Avid Member
the reason for the bucket is she can't get out and it gives her privacy ...its kinda like they seem to go up high and perch and forget and contact with the dirt reminds them. this is if they don't lay on their own
 

kinyonga

Chameleon Queen
Should I let her out of her lay bin?
Are you locking her into the bin in her cage? That's not a good idea IMHO. You're going to stress her out I think.

The bin in the cage she should be free to go into whenever she wants to. She should be able to get in and out on her own. I would not be handling her while she's producing eggs and give her peace. Only feed and w area her and leave her alone the rest of the time if she starts digging do not let her see you watching her.

I would also be using washed playsand that is just moist enough to hold a tunnel. They seem to like it....whereas with soils they are more picky IMHO.

There seems to be s limited time that they can/will lay the eggs. If they get past that, they are eggbound and will quite likely die if not spayed before they start to go down hill.


The second bin method is to take a Rubbermaid type opaque container about 65 litres. Cut away most of the lid and screen over the hole. Fill the container about 10" deep with washed playsand added a branch or two so she can have a place to climb on when she's not digging. You can add a plant too. Put her in and put the lid on and add a UVB light across the lid.

Once you commit to this method do not move her in and out if the bin. Because it's not good to move her back and forth, I only use this method if she hasn't dug in the bin in her cage and I feel her time to do it and lay is almost passed.

I hope this helps and that she will lay the eggs.
 

kinyonga

Chameleon Queen
Egg laying should go like this...
She should dig a hole (but may dig several test holes first) and when she's happy with it, turn around butt down in the hole and lay her eggs. This is often in the evening. She might even sleep in the hole. When done, she should fill the hole in and tamp it down and return to the branches hungry and thirsty.

If she doesn't do this and acts lethargic, sits low in the cage, sleeps during the day, ghost lays etc, then she is likely becoming eggbound and needs a good chameleon vet ASAP.

(Ghost laying....digging the hole, acting like she is laying the eggs, fills the hole but didn't lay anything).
 

cham girl

Avid Member
Are you locking her into the bin in her cage? That's not a good idea IMHO. You're going to stress her out I think.

The bin in the cage she should be free to go into whenever she wants to. She should be able to get in and out on her own. I would not be handling her while she's producing eggs and give her peace. Only feed and w area her and leave her alone the rest of the time if she starts digging do not let her see you watching her.

I would also be using washed playsand that is just moist enough to hold a tunnel. They seem to like it....whereas with soils they are more picky IMHO.

There seems to be s limited time that they can/will lay the eggs. If they get past that, they are eggbound and will quite likely die if not spayed before they start to go down hill.


The second bin method is to take a Rubbermaid type opaque container about 65 litres. Cut away most of the lid and screen over the hole. Fill the container about 10" deep with washed playsand added a branch or two so she can have a place to climb on when she's not digging. You can add a plant too. Put her in and put the lid on and add a UVB light across the lid.

Once you commit to this method do not move her in and out if the bin. Because it's not good to move her back and forth, I only use this method if she hasn't dug in the bin in her cage and I feel her time to do it and lay is almost passed.

I hope this helps and that she will lay the eggs.
thats what I said in the last sentence
 

lenanguyen34

New Member
Are you locking her into the bin in her cage? That's not a good idea IMHO. You're going to stress her out I think.

The bin in the cage she should be free to go into whenever she wants to. She should be able to get in and out on her own. I would not be handling her while she's producing eggs and give her peace. Only feed and w area her and leave her alone the rest of the time if she starts digging do not let her see you watching her.

I would also be using washed playsand that is just moist enough to hold a tunnel. They seem to like it....whereas with soils they are more picky IMHO.

There seems to be s limited time that they can/will lay the eggs. If they get past that, they are eggbound and will quite likely die if not spayed before they start to go down hill.


The second bin method is to take a Rubbermaid type opaque container about 65 litres. Cut away most of the lid and screen over the hole. Fill the container about 10" deep with washed playsand added a branch or two so she can have a place to climb on when she's not digging. You can add a plant too. Put her in and put the lid on and add a UVB light across the lid.

Once you commit to this method do not move her in and out if the bin. Because it's not good to move her back and forth, I only use this method if she hasn't dug in the bin in her cage and I feel her time to do it and lay is almost passed.

I hope this helps and that she will lay the eggs.
Thank you so much. I really hope she lays also. She has not refused eating which leads me to believe she is not ready yet. But still I am so dang worried especially since she can't breath well
 

lenanguyen34

New Member
There is not nearly enough privacy for her. She needs a ton more plants, and if you have one spare, you can out it directly into the lay bin.
I got this umbrella plant today from my local greenhouse. She loves it and right as I put it in she took a bite lol. She has a little bit more cover now and I'm getting more tomorrow. Got a new thermometer as well and turns out her basking area was well over 90 so I think we know what happened there 🙃 thank you for your help... We both really appreciate it. Hopefully her time to lay will come soon
 

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lenanguyen34

New Member
So I hate to tell you but your enclosure is set up incorrectly for her. Looks like your using a T8 fixture and if that is the case the distance below basking is very specific or they do not get UVB they need. Listen to the keepers here for Laying advice... But I would start reading this husbandry program so you know how you need to set up her enclosure.

https://chameleonacademy.com/chameleon-husbandry-program-getting-started-with-chameleons/
Thank you for your reply I read through the modules and I am definitely going to raise her UVB lights!
 

Beman

Chameleon Enthusiast
Thank you for your reply I read through the modules and I am definitely going to raise her UVB lights!
What do you mean by raise the lights... Can you tell me if your using a T5HO fixture or a T8 fixture, what is the bulb strength, and what is the measured distance to the branch below it?
The output is far less on the T8 which actually requires the branches to be closer to it not farther away. I was concerned with how it is in that picture. Looks as if it is way too far away.
 
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