Open Mouth on my Chameleon

Matman03

Member
I recently bought a 1 year old sunshine veiled. She is eating very often and drinking fine. Ambient Temp is around 75 degrees and the basking temp is 90 degrees. I cannot figure out why she leaves her mouth open all the time. She closes it when she eats but usually her tongue is sticking out a little. What could be the problem? I have thought that it may be hurt from the Cricket sharp parts but I would think it would of healed by now. No weird salivating and coloring is just standard light pink inside. She is usually a bright green unless I make her mad. Any Ideas? THANKS
 

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You're probably going to get asked to fill out the ask for help form.

From what I've read, and I'm no expert, an open mouth can be a sign of a few things. Does she seem to be gasping for air at all? If so, it could be a resperatory infection. It can also be a sign of MBD where the bones are distorted so the jaw no longer meets as it is supposed to. How long has she been doing this for?

Regardless of any of that, I'd say a vet visit might be in order.
 
they will open their mouth to regulate their temp. My veiled was doing the same thing at those temps so i raised the heat light a bit so her twmps run between 82 and 85 and she doesnt do it anymore. one other thing about keeping females temps a bit cooler is it reduces the chances of laying big infertile clutches when combined with not overfeeding. This is just one possibility of what it could be, i hope it is all it is.
 
It is really hot. Her temps need coming down.

Temperature plays a big part on egg production, someone else may be able to explain better but i would try and get it down to the low 80's :)
 
What Brad said. Your cham isnt a female its a MALE. Try lowering the temperature either by increasing the distance from lamp and basking spot or buy a dimmer from Lowes or Home Depot. Also probably wouldnt hurt to mist a few extra times during the day.
 
Thank you for all of your responses it really helps to hear from seasoned cham owners. I am positive she is a female because she has been spayed to prevent egg impaction. I will definitely check the temperature but she does it even during the night when the temperature drops. I thought it was maybe that she needed more water but maybe not. I am currently working on getting timers on the lamps and misting system so maybe that will help. Does anyone know what the humidity should be? THANKS
 
Where did you get this animal from?
Were you told "she" was spayed or did you have this operation done? Not a common procedure and certainly not performed just to prevent future egg laying problems in an otherwise healthy animal.
I would love to see a picture of the back of the feet.
The tongue issue could be many things, vitamin deficiency, stomatitis, scar tissue, etc.
Has this animal been to see a vet while in your care?

-Brad
 
Brad, no she/he has not been to the vet yet, i have only had him/her for around 3 weeks or so. Got "it" from a breeder and the precedure was done while in his care. I will take some more pictures when I get home. You want to see the back legs to look for spurs right? Also I will show you the scar from the surgery and maybe get a closup of the lizards tongue. I really hope nothing is wrong.
 
Summoner, I am using the Exo-terra 5.0 reptiglo UVB compact flourecent. And as far as calcium I gutload the crickets with flukers products. I hope MBD is not the issue.
 
Summoner, I am using the Exo-terra 5.0 reptiglo UVB compact flourecent. And as far as calcium I gutload the crickets with flukers products. I hope MBD is not the issue.

You should really be gutloading with more than just flukers...
Anything like collard greens, celery, carrots, berries etc
 
Summoner, I am using the Exo-terra 5.0 reptiglo UVB compact flourecent. And as far as calcium I gutload the crickets with flukers products. I hope MBD is not the issue.

Do you have calcium dusting products such as Rep-Cal calcium (green label) Rep-Cal calcium with vitanim D3 (pink label) Rep-Cal herptivite (blue label)? If you don't have those, maybe you have Miner-All? Miner-All has either a red lid (calcium) or a yellow lid (calcium w/ D3). If you don't have any of these products I would get the Miner-All brand with the red and yellow lids. I would also buy the Rep-Cal herptivite supplement.

Use the calcium on the crickets daily. But twice a week use the calcium with vit. D3 instead of the regular calcium. Then once or twice a month dust the crickets in the herptivite.

MBD is reversible if you get cracking on it. You can't make deformed bones or joints go back to normal, but you can provide the vitamins needed for the body to make those bones firm again.

As for your UVB lamp. How old is the CFL? I would ditch the Exo-Terra lamp. Purchase the Zoo Med Reptisun 5.0 linear lamp if you have a normal screen cage, but if you have the thicker mesh plastic reptarium, the 10.0 would be OK, just lift the lamp off the cage an inch or two.

Can you get some closer pictures of the chams mouth and limbs? I suspect MBD because the mouth of chams will get kinda funky when the jaw bones become weak. It could also be a bone infection pushing out her teeth or even a broken jaw bone. I hope it is MBD... :eek:

I would still take her to the vet and have her looked at. Sorry if I missed it, but where are you from?
 
Apparently the repti 5.0 compact has been fixed and is now safe..

Yes.... the new formula of Zoo Med's CFLs is safer.... They still put out loads of UVB and need to be used correctly. But, old CFL's from Zoo Med and other brands are still on store shelves. Here is how you can tell the old from the new: Link

It isn't wrong to encourage people to move away from CFL. but, if a person is using a CFL and it can be identified as the new formulation of lamp, it is OK to use. Be sure to read the instructions carefully and follow them closely.
 
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