nightcrawler
Avid Member
how long ago is this eye thing happened?
do you think he could be blind in the eye that had this happen to?
have you done a vision test?
does he ususally say with onside away from you, the same side?
Not doing good.
- Thread starter Diezel
- Start date
how long ago is this eye thing happened?
do you think he could be blind in the eye that had this happen to?
have you done a vision test?
does he ususally say with onside away from you, the same side?
Amy J
New Member
You still haven't answered exactly what type of supplementation you're using and how often you're using it. If you overuse Calcium with D3, your Chameleon can die. So is your calcium dust with or without D3? I'm no expert, but the toungue problem might be tied to disorders stemmed from improper supplementation as I understand. If not, improper supplementation can still prove detrimental overvtime. A good rough guide to it (which varies a little for everyone) is Calcium with D3 once a week, Calcium without D3 three times a week, Multi Vitamin with Beta Carotene twice a week, and once a week with no dusting. I'm pretty new to chams so correct me if I'm wrong people. But the point I'm trying to make is that your chameleon's supplementation over time can be very important. If you want our help, you can't just ignore this question.
Jeweledchameleons
Avid Member
I'm not clear on the eye issue either
please post to youtube and link.
I've had a panther ( my prized pet) fall and injure his eye
The "pressure valve" for his turret was burst and his eye
telescoped and radially ballooned out.
He eventually lost the eye but he's always fed fine and targeted without a problem.
Yours may have suffered a hard fall and landed on his side injuring his eye
(mine did TWICE - I blame raging hormones for his risky behavior)
Yours seems uncomfortable with targeting due to inability to triangulate
he wants to feed so it's not a problem with hunger or protests.
Is he rubbing it against a branch or something due to irritation?
Not sure what the problem is, but it sounds like a lack of vitamin A
and or physical damage at this point (video / picts please).
I would switch to another supplement maker.
Some makers may leave out or substitute nonavailable synthetics
in their formulations when things get tight.
I suggest HERPTIVITE (BLUE label)
it doesn't use a synthetic form of vitamin A
but Beta Carotene that can be bioregulated by the animal.
http://www.repcal.com/supp.htm
I would also gutload his crickets carrots with carrot shavings.
This is a conservative approach until more is learned.
I doubt it has anything to do with calcium affecting his bones
his legs would give out beforehand and couldn't hold himself up.
IF it's a problem with vitamin A (absence or non-bioavailability)
that would cause symptoms as you describe them -including loss of color.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vitamin_A
get back to us.
please post to youtube and link.
I've had a panther ( my prized pet) fall and injure his eye
The "pressure valve" for his turret was burst and his eye
telescoped and radially ballooned out.
He eventually lost the eye but he's always fed fine and targeted without a problem.
Yours may have suffered a hard fall and landed on his side injuring his eye
(mine did TWICE - I blame raging hormones for his risky behavior)
Yours seems uncomfortable with targeting due to inability to triangulate
he wants to feed so it's not a problem with hunger or protests.
Is he rubbing it against a branch or something due to irritation?
Not sure what the problem is, but it sounds like a lack of vitamin A
and or physical damage at this point (video / picts please).
I would switch to another supplement maker.
Some makers may leave out or substitute nonavailable synthetics
in their formulations when things get tight.
I suggest HERPTIVITE (BLUE label)
it doesn't use a synthetic form of vitamin A
but Beta Carotene that can be bioregulated by the animal.
http://www.repcal.com/supp.htm
I would also gutload his crickets carrots with carrot shavings.
This is a conservative approach until more is learned.
I doubt it has anything to do with calcium affecting his bones
his legs would give out beforehand and couldn't hold himself up.
IF it's a problem with vitamin A (absence or non-bioavailability)
that would cause symptoms as you describe them -including loss of color.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vitamin_A
get back to us.
Last edited:
Amy J
New Member
That's what I was trying to get at, but did have all the smarts to fully explain 
. All we have been able to get out is that you use some sort of calcium dusting (which you have not specified as being with or without D3 and you have not said how often you use it either). If you do not have proper supplementation, it causes problems, as Jeweledchameleons explained far more eloquently above.
. All we have been able to get out is that you use some sort of calcium dusting (which you have not specified as being with or without D3 and you have not said how often you use it either). If you do not have proper supplementation, it causes problems, as Jeweledchameleons explained far more eloquently above.
Jeweledchameleons
Avid Member
THANKS AmyJ
It's very nice to hear stuff like that
I really don't follow much of a ridged "set program" with my supplements.
I usually dust on a bit of a rotation between Miner-all, Herptivite and Repta-cal.
depending upon what I see as the needs of that group.
I don't worry about over supplementation since there's always a few leftover crickets
to have them feed upon in the cages for the next day or so (buffer).
Or lets put it this way... I haven't seen any signs of over supplementation.
My big thing is to mix up my own cricket feed and boost it myself
with the vitamins, powders and such.
The crickets then serve to absorb and process
that into metabolites to give a greater spread of goodies in the food source.
I then also dust on top of that (above) and rotate the products.
fluids are provided by fruits I buy out of the sale bin at the produce store.
So far it's worked out fine,
It's very nice to hear stuff like that
I really don't follow much of a ridged "set program" with my supplements.
I usually dust on a bit of a rotation between Miner-all, Herptivite and Repta-cal.
depending upon what I see as the needs of that group.
I don't worry about over supplementation since there's always a few leftover crickets
to have them feed upon in the cages for the next day or so (buffer).
Or lets put it this way... I haven't seen any signs of over supplementation.
My big thing is to mix up my own cricket feed and boost it myself
with the vitamins, powders and such.
The crickets then serve to absorb and process
that into metabolites to give a greater spread of goodies in the food source.
I then also dust on top of that (above) and rotate the products.
fluids are provided by fruits I buy out of the sale bin at the produce store.
So far it's worked out fine,
Last edited:
Amy J
New Member
I haven't started following a rigid schedule yet either. I'll get my own down eventually. I've just found overtime through research that this is roughly what most find works best. It's great to look at if you're just starting out and you have no idea how to approach supplementation. Looking at a schedule can help people get a sense of how much of each type of supplementation their cham will need. It helped for me at least.
mary prefontaine
New Member
never seen him drink
i keep a constant dripper and mist my panther 3x daily yet ive never seen him drink. i can see his poop is a brown color and occassional white droppings no real yellow so far. does this mean hes just being shy about drinking and maybe getting enough water when im not looking>?
i keep a constant dripper and mist my panther 3x daily yet ive never seen him drink. i can see his poop is a brown color and occassional white droppings no real yellow so far. does this mean hes just being shy about drinking and maybe getting enough water when im not looking>?
newyorkbreed
New Member
I would say so,
The urate color is a sure sign of hydration/de-hydration.
The whiter the better..
Diezel
New Member
Sandfire Super Dust Foods. CHAMELEON DUST ICB. is the powder i use. i just set up my mister yesterday to go 4 times a day for 3 minutes a time. he seems to like it.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xE5m5fYnrTg
theres the video.
thanks for helping guys. i just want diezel to be happy.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xE5m5fYnrTg
theres the video.
thanks for helping guys. i just want diezel to be happy.
Julirs
New Member
Ihave never heard of this-here is what I found:
All-in-One Super Food
Includes all Foods, Vitamins and Minerals!
Sandfire Super Foods were developed by Allen Repashy, these are the first species specific, all inclusive, advanced feeding concept for reptiles. A departure from the status quo in reptile foods, the super foods are made from fresh, human grade ingredients and are not extruded.
The best method of application is the 'shake and bake' method, place insects in a plastic bag or container with the dust and then shake to coat the insects. To further increase the nutritional value of insects, combine this product with Cricket Diet. This is a gut-loading formula to increase the nutritional value of the insects, via the containment of highly nutritious food in the gut that will be absorbed as the insect is digested.
Insect Cricket Balancer (ICB)
Also-more info at http://www.reptilesupply.com/product.php?products_id=116
All-in-One Super Food
Includes all Foods, Vitamins and Minerals!
Sandfire Super Foods were developed by Allen Repashy, these are the first species specific, all inclusive, advanced feeding concept for reptiles. A departure from the status quo in reptile foods, the super foods are made from fresh, human grade ingredients and are not extruded.
The best method of application is the 'shake and bake' method, place insects in a plastic bag or container with the dust and then shake to coat the insects. To further increase the nutritional value of insects, combine this product with Cricket Diet. This is a gut-loading formula to increase the nutritional value of the insects, via the containment of highly nutritious food in the gut that will be absorbed as the insect is digested.
Insect Cricket Balancer (ICB)
Also-more info at http://www.reptilesupply.com/product.php?products_id=116
Jeweledchameleons
Avid Member
OK that is normal. you just sprayed him down
he's got water in his eye and he's rubbing it around in the turret
to get rid of the irritation.
think of it as a hard blink.
you had us wondering if this was something major
hummmmmm as long as i'm here...
He's lacking fat and water reserves up in his casque
I would get him started on drinking out of a glass
and up his food intake for a month w/ hornworms
he's got water in his eye and he's rubbing it around in the turret
to get rid of the irritation.
think of it as a hard blink.
you had us wondering if this was something major
hummmmmm as long as i'm here...
He's lacking fat and water reserves up in his casque
I would get him started on drinking out of a glass
and up his food intake for a month w/ hornworms
d 2the aNieL
New Member
Thats not right
Dyesub Dave
New Member
I've seen one of my chams do that before. It really weird when they puff their eye out and the socket looks the size of a marble or something. It looked like something was in his eye to me as well. But I've only seen my cham do that a couple of times and I don't think it lasted that long.
Dyesub Dave.
Dyesub Dave.
Jeweledchameleons
Avid Member
All of my veiled chams have shown me
that they can telescope their eyes out on their turrets
as well as retract them in.
Not only that, but when they're dealing with some eye irritation
they can move it in under the lid and attempt to massage it out.
The eye is retracted under the forward lid and moved in a undulating
(wavelike) movement
before returning to it's correct position.
I can imagine that it would seem a bit freaky to some
with the movement like that and such
but it's not harmful.
I believe he just got some water squirted in his eye
that's all.
give him a glass of water to drink out of and stop squirting him in the face.
that they can telescope their eyes out on their turrets
as well as retract them in.
Not only that, but when they're dealing with some eye irritation
they can move it in under the lid and attempt to massage it out.
The eye is retracted under the forward lid and moved in a undulating
(wavelike) movement
before returning to it's correct position.
I can imagine that it would seem a bit freaky to some
with the movement like that and such
but it's not harmful.
I believe he just got some water squirted in his eye
that's all.
give him a glass of water to drink out of and stop squirting him in the face.
Diezel
New Member
OK. diezel is drinking like a pro now and looking better. his tounge still wont shoot but it was come out farther than before. i cannot get him to eat. he will not eat and isnt sleeping but is in his spot where he sleeps at night any suggestions to how to force feed. hes interested in the food he just cant get it and gets nervous when i hand feed.
Julirs
New Member
Did you try putting crickets in a container to see if maybe he will just grab them with his mouth? Maybe pull legs off crickets to make them slower. Does he eat silk or wax worms? I would certainly get some different calcium powder, as I am questioning if that all purpose food enhancer had enough.
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