Not digesting worms

CaptainMorgantown

CaptainMorgantown

New Member
Hey guys,

Jojo is having some problems. It seems as though she isn't digesting her food very well again. This happened when I first got her, but I figured that was because her system wasn't used to food (sad, right?). I have been feeding her phoenix worms all week, and I found several worms in her cage that were completely undigested. I think that she might be too cold, but according to the thermometer it is between 75-80 degrees. I also think this is the problem because of how dark she is. Should I try bumping up the temperature to see if that makes a difference?
 
If she is constantly dark. That usually is a good indication she is cold. It could be a sign of other things but we will stick to this for now.

If she is not digesting her food it could mean she is not able to properly thermo regulate, parasites or a digestive tract bacterial infection (link below for some info).
https://www.chameleonforums.com/blogs/ataraxia/482-issues-body-region-internal.html

I would first start with your temp. Be sure you are monitoring this correctly. id set her basking spot temp to the 84*. If you need instructions on how to do this correctly, let me know.
 
ataraxia said:
If she is constantly dark. That usually is a good indication she is cold. It could be a sign of other things but we will stick to this for now.

If she is not digesting her food it could mean she is not able to properly thermo regulate, parasites or a digestive tract bacterial infection (link below for some info).
https://www.chameleonforums.com/blogs/ataraxia/482-issues-body-region-internal.html

I would first start with your temp. Be sure you are monitoring this correctly. id set her basking spot temp to the 84*. If you need instructions on how to do this correctly, let me know.
Click to expand...

I believe his cham has severe MBD and he took her in as a rescue from a petstore. Also, possible gular edema from a different thread. Captainmorgantown, is this the cham we are talking about?
 
Yes, that is the same chameleon. I believe I got her gular edema under control since her throat area isn't all puffy anymore. I might just be paranoid right now, but I think that her weight might be dropping, and I am just noticing this now since I saw that she isn't digesting anything. I just don't want any major problems to start up again.

I gave her a few crickets tonight since she seems to have an easier time with those, but I really need her eating some fatty foods to get her weight back up. I'm going to go out tomorrow and get her a bigger lamp and a 75 watt light. Do you guys think that she would be okay with a 100 watt? I guess it is a bit chilly for a chameleon in my house, but I keep my house temp at 75 even though it doesn't feel like it. She is in my bedroom, which is the warmest place in the house, so I can't move her anywhere else warmer.

I'm just starting to get worried. I put her to bed about a hour ago, and she just didn't look good at all. I think that I am also going to get her a ceramic heater.

Should I post pictures or anything? I will have to do it tomorrow.
 
There are always variables...you're seeing a lack of proper digestion, that suggests that the temps need to be bumped up...as they can easily tolerate 90 degrees in the basking spot, there's no reason not to provide that (yes, I understand it's a female). She might just be one that needs that, or she might need it while she recovers.

Pictures are always illuminating.
 
I was trying to keep her temps a bit lower since she is a female. All of the horror stories that I've read about females dying early due from laying several clutches a year scares me, but I will go ahead and fix everything tomorrow.
 
gosh good luck with her. You took on a lot and you sound like you are a great person with a HUGE heart! She is lucky to be in your care.
 
knowing now that this cham has had mbd and other health issues. Im sure her immune system has been compromised and susceptible to the other variables other than just temps..Ill be honest, if her cage ambients were in the 80's she more than likely was able to digest food fine..

DARK COLORS:
1. Illness: Chameleons typically in later stages of illness start to show dull, dark colors. This could vary from parasites, organ failure, infections, etc.
2. Gravid: When a female want to show everyone hey boys dont even think about it..Dark colors is what they will throw. You have also been dealing with edema which can be present in gravid females.
3. Unsure of surroundings: She just plain and simple doesnt feel safe and secure.
4. Temps as you already know.

UNDIGESTED FOOD:
1. Parasites
2. Digestive tract bacterial infection
3. Improper Temps
4. Over Feeding

Find the possiblities that relate to both symptoms and start there..

The bad thing about starting new threads is some wont know the full story. I also dont know the current care. If you dont mind filling this out.

Chameleon Info:

Your Chameleon - The species, sex, and age of your chameleon. How long has it been in your care?
Handling - How often do you handle your chameleon?
Feeding - What are you feeding your cham? What amount? What is the schedule? How are you gut-loading your feeders?
Supplements - What brand and type of calcium and vitamin products are you dusting your feeders with and what is the schedule?
Watering - What kind of watering technique do you use? How often and how long to you mist? Do you see your chameleon drinking?
Fecal Description - Briefly note colors and consistency from recent droppings. Has this chameleon ever been tested for parasites?
History - Any previous information about your cham that might be useful to others when trying to help you.


Cage Info:

Cage Type - Describe your cage (Glass, Screen, Combo?) What are the dimensions?
Lighting - What brand, model, and types of lighting are you using? What is your daily lighting schedule?
Temperature - What temp range have you created (cage floor to basking spot)? Lowest overnight temp? How do you measure these temps?
Humidity - What are your humidity levels? How are you creating and maintaining these levels? What do you use to measure humidity?
Plants - Are you using live plants? If so, what kind?
Placement - Where is your cage located? Is it near any fans, air vents, or high traffic areas? At what height is the top of the cage relative to your room floor?
Location - Where are you geographically located?
 
Last edited:
I'm going to put the pictures on here first then I will fill out the info in a separate post.

398548_10150701042278296_548318295_11106146_1954707282_n.jpg



400264_10150701041118296_548318295_11106139_1398359620_n.jpg
 
Chameleon Info:

Your Chameleon - The species, sex, and age of your chameleon. How long has it been in your care? Female veiled chameleon, and about three months.
Handling - How often do you handle your chameleon? Every day to feed her and give her water. She won't eat or drink on her own.
Feeding - What are you feeding your cham? What amount? What is the schedule? How are you gut-loading your feeders? I am currently feeding her crickets, butterworms, and phoenix worms. I can never keep track of how many she eats. I just feed her until she starts spitting them out. I gut load the crickets with carrots and potatoes, and I do not gut load the worms.
Supplements - What brand and type of calcium and vitamin products are you dusting your feeders with and what is the schedule?I have Zoo Med Repti-Calcium without D3, Flukers calcium with D3, and Flukers Multivitamin. Dust without D3 every feeding, with D3 once a week, and one multivitamin a month.
Watering - What kind of watering technique do you use? How often and how long to you mist? Do you see your chameleon drinking? She has learned that the mister means water, and I just turn it on low and let her lick the nozzle. Mist three times a day, and yes I see her drinking.
Fecal Description - Briefly note colors and consistency from recent droppings. Has this chameleon ever been tested for parasites? Lately it has been brown with a bunch of undigested worms. She has been tested for parasites.
History - Any previous information about your cham that might be useful to others when trying to help you. She got MBD from being mistreated by her previous owner. She was starved and did not have a proper home, and was allowed to roam around the house for about four months.


Cage Info:

Cage Type - Describe your cage (Glass, Screen, Combo?) What are the dimensions? It is a size small Reptibreeze cage.
Lighting - What brand, model, and types of lighting are you using? What is your daily lighting schedule? Exo terra reptiglo 10.0 UVB, I know that 10.0 is strong but my vet recommended getting a stronger one for now, and just a regular 75 watt for heat/basking. 10am-10pm.
Temperature - What temp range have you created (cage floor to basking spot)? Lowest overnight temp? How do you measure these temps? The basking spot is between 75-80, the bottom of the cage is probably around 70-75. I have two zoo med thermometers, one in the basking area, and one in her favorite corner at the bottom of the cage.
Humidity - What are your humidity levels? How are you creating and maintaining these levels? What do you use to measure humidity? Humidity is around 60-70 percent. I have a mister that I use about three times a day, and I measure it with a zoo med hygrometer.
Plants - Are you using live plants? If so, what kind? No live plants. The only "plant" that I have is fake and it is spanish moss. My cham cannot grip plants that well. I used to have a fake vince in there, and she always fell off of it.
Placement - Where is your cage located? Is it near any fans, air vents, or high traffic areas? At what height is the top of the cage relative to your room floor? The cage is in my room near the heating vent. It is about two feet off of the ground. It is very quiet since I only go in there to sleep.
Location - Where are you geographically located? West Virginia.
 
some ideas for you

A chameleon that has eaten too much in once "sitting" may not digest all that it intakes. There is a limit to the amount of stomach juice available at once. There is a limit to how much an animal needs to digest. Consider Spreading feedings out - smaller quantities, meals throughout the day.

If an animal has a weak jaw or isnt the type to "chew" its food well, larva like pheonix /soldier fly maggots and butterworms can pass through undigested - pierce the larva with a needle/pin a couple times just prior to feeding off.

Temperature can play a big role in digestion, but your stated temps are fine.

Infections/parasites/general ill health can mess with digestion.

Potatoes are not a good thing to gutload the crickets with. Carrots are okay. But you really want to start gutloading much better. Butterworms and other larva can also be gutloaded. https://www.chameleonforums.com/blogs/sandrachameleon/75-feeder-nutrition-gutloading.html
https://www.chameleonforums.com/blo...just-crickets-roaches-gutload-everything.html

Consider adding small (gutloaded) superworms to the mix, if you want to increase fat intake. They provide more fat than butterworms.
 
Last edited:
First off i commend you taking in a chameleon in that kind of shape. I wish you and her the best. I also love taking in animals that have been abused. I personally think she is dark because of her overall feeling of health. She is on the bound but she isnt able to move about very well so she knows things arent great atm. Undigested food can be from the mbd (this is un founded but a good guess). I would feed her less meal worms, wax worms and super worms at the moment. Since you are able to dictate what she is able to have i would stick to crickets. You can administer liquid calcium right into the abdomen of the cricket.

As far as temps are concerned. Before i go any further with this... Is she able to move about at all?

I do agree with the vet and the 10.0 uvb. If i could give you a few recommendations.

1. Liquid calcium. I would administer this to the chameleon every day until she is up and walking without the shakes.
2. Im not sure of west virginias weather at the moment but if you have any days in the 70's i would get her out in the sun as much as possible.
3. Read sandrachameleons and ferretsinmyshoes blogs on gut loading.
4. limit intake only 5-8 feeders.
 
I didn't mean to make it sound like she is eating 20+ worms a day. If I had to guess, it is probably no more than 10 on a good day, but on average probably around 5. She still isn't eating a lot.

She can move around. Very well actually. When she isn't basking, she is usually moving all around her cage. She can climb very well, but she has to be able to fit her feet around whatever she is climbing. Here is a video. She is still slightly shaky, but compared to how she usually was, this is a huge improvement.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3BVjR_2PIe4&context=C3835c10ADOEgsToPDskLcLmi1iTIft3YSdKfgmHpO

I was giving her liquid calcium, but I stopped when she started shedding. West Virginia is freezing right now, but when summer gets here I am planning on bringing her outside. I will pick up some crickets tomorrow and give to her.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

USSTrioceros
Need advice: what else should I ask vet to check
Replies
10
Views
3K
USSTrioceros
USSTrioceros
Lumi
Sinus infection from too much calcium?
Replies
19
Views
3K
Lumi
Lumi
Jle5116
Help with husbandry questions
Replies
17
Views
3K
GrannyK
GrannyK
L
spots and dark colors
Replies
9
Views
701
MissSkittles
MissSkittles
X
Inappetant baby cham
2
Replies
28
Views
6K
GrannyK
GrannyK
Back
Top Bottom