Here's some informative sites that should help you...
http://www.uvguide.co.uk/
http://web.archive.org/web/20060502...rnals.com/vet/index.php?show=5.Vitamin.A.html
http://web.archive.org/web/20060421.../index.php?show=6.Vitamin.D3.and.Calcium.html
http://raisingkittytheveiledchameleon.blogspot.com/
Here is some other information that will be helpful to you if you get a veiled or panther...
Supplementing, gutloading, appropriate temperatures, UVB lighting and proper watering are all important issues with keeping chameleons.
Since most feeder insects have a poor ratio of calcium to phosphorus, its important to dust with a phos.-free calcium powder at most feedings to make up for it.
I dust with a phos.-free calcium/D3 powder twice a month to ensure that the chameleon gets some D3 without overdoing it. I leave them to produce the rest of the D3 from their exposure to the UVB.
The UVB shouldn't pass through glass or screen...and some compacts, spirals can cause eye problems...but there are no bad reports against the long linear fluorescent Repti-sun 5.0 UVB bulb.
I dust twice a month with a vitamin powder that contains a beta carotene source of vitamin A. Beta carotene (prOformed) source of vitamin A will not build up in the system, but there is controversy as to whether all/any chameleons can convert it so some people give a little prEformed once in a while. Excess prEformed may prevent the D3 from doing its job and push the chameleon towards MBD.
Calcium, D3, vitamin A and phos. are all important players in bone health and other systems in the chameleon and need to be in balance. When trying to balance them you need to look at what you feed the chameleon, what you feed the insects and what supplements you use.
Temperature also plays a part...good temperatures aid in good digestion which plays a part indirectly in nutrient absorption.
Gutloading is important...you can gutload crickets, superworms, locusts, roaches, etc. with a wide assortment of greens (dandelions, collards, kale, endive, parsley, escarole, etc.) and veggies (squash, zucchini, carrots, sweet potato, sweet red pepper, etc.)
The cage should be misted a couple of times a day and once your chameleon is 3 or so months old you can also use a dripper. It can be as simple as a deli cup with a tiny hole in the bottom of it. Just be sure that you don't leave water standing stagnant in the cage.
Plants should be non-toxic in case the chameleon or the insects chew on them....they should be well washed, both sides of the leaves.
For young panther or veiled chameleons the temperatures are best kept in the low to mid 80's F. Adults can handle temperatures up to the high 80's and for veileds, the low 90's...but I keep the adult females a little cooler.
For a first time owner I would recommend getting a male since you will avoid all the egglaying/reproductive issues.