Kristen Wilkins
Chameleon Enthusiast
Yes without D3 every feeding . Dragonstrand.com check them out . Sorry on my phone typing .
new veiled chameleon owner
- Thread starter rangocham89
- Start date
rangocham89
New Member
shame they are not available in the UK, ill just have to find what else I can get instead.... sorry for all these questions.
what other stuff can I feed him... hes 12 weeks old
greenbirdlady
New Member
I think Karen meant calcium without D3 every feeding.
Dragon Strand is a brilliant make of chameleon cage. I'm in the UK too and if they would send them here, it would cost an arm and leg with postage and import duty. I so want one though !!
Dragon Strand is a brilliant make of chameleon cage. I'm in the UK too and if they would send them here, it would cost an arm and leg with postage and import duty. I so want one though !!
rangocham89
New Member
The dragon strand is awesome, puts our cages in the uk to shame @greenbirdlady
Kristen Wilkins
Chameleon Enthusiast
Crickets , Dubia roaches , silk worms , super worms , small hornworms (they grow very fast), BSF , wax worms . Wax worms have a hi fat content so not to many.
Veileds will eat veggies and a small amount of fruit . Kale , dandelion , endive , Collard greens mustard greens , they like raspberries strawberries small amounts , red pepper , sweet potato, zucchini , carrots . It's a must to get organic .
All the above are great gut load . Cricket crack , and rapashy I like to add in my gut load . I also use a bit of Honey with my gut load .
greenbirdlady
New Member
I know, the things that can be got in America and not here, makes me real jealous at times. And, I have two chameleons. O dear who would get the dragonstrand even if I could get one 
Kristen Wilkins
Chameleon Enthusiast
There worth the money. I justed picked another one up on this site . Waiting on another . There fantastic !!. Yes I did mean every feeding with out D3 phone to text grrrr .
Kristen Wilkins
Chameleon Enthusiast
That stinks , there has to be something Similar ? Or would they at least send the ledges ? We as well have 2 chameleon. I want many chameleon I just absolutely love them . Their Amazing .I know, the things that can be got in America and not here, makes me real jealous at times. And, I have two chameleons. O dear who would get the dragonstrand even if I could get one
rangocham89
New Member
whats the best way to keep all of them? i know about crickets/locusts
whats cricket crack and rapashy?
rangocham89
New Member
i have a reptibreeze for my chameleon and have to use garden wire to attach everything to it, those ledges would be ideal
Kristen Wilkins
Chameleon Enthusiast
Kristen Wilkins
Chameleon Enthusiast
@WAMBO made awesome bamboo ledges . Maybe if he's not to busy he can chim in ?
greenbirdlady
New Member
Yep, I've got reptibreeze too ..So awkward though trying to fix branches to the sides.
But, oh the joy, found Repashy in the UK after reading about it here. Never did find cricket crack though!!
But, oh the joy, found Repashy in the UK after reading about it here. Never did find cricket crack though!!
jamest0o0
Chameleon Enthusiast
If you're in Europe you have access to Arcadia earth mix. Maybe go bioactive and grow things from the bottom in substrate. That's what I do, but I can't get access to the Arcadia mix in the states. Have pothos grow up branches, plant a nice big umbrella tree, palm, or whatever you like, then maybe tie a bromeliad to the screen. I'm basically describing my juvenile panthers cage, but it worked and I love the look. Don't have to worry about hanging plants anywhere
Andee
Chameleon Enthusiast
So my question is why is everyone recommending against reptivite? Yes reptivite needs to be treated more carefully, but reptivite provides absolutely no preformed vitamin A and insects themselves do not provide enough preformed vit A daily to do jack beans for reptiles. I can put up a post that I did a bunch of a calculations on which shows how unhelpful insects are with vitamin A if anyone is interested.
I recommend if you aren't doing preformed vit A in any form in your gutload (which I always do) dust with it at least once a month.
I recommend if you aren't doing preformed vit A in any form in your gutload (which I always do) dust with it at least once a month.
Andee
Chameleon Enthusiast
Vitamin a isn't excreted through urine. So it builds up in the system easy, but it is used in a lot of the bodies normal functions. Reptivite has a high amount of preformed vit A and if I remember correctly a low amount of vitamin D3, though I am not positive on this and my current reptivite that I use for Rylet doesn't have d3 because he is outside all the time. So using it once a month should be fine I think
Not sure...it has vitamin A acetate....
http://www.drsfostersmith.com/product/prod_display.cfm?pcatid=6415
http://www.livestrong.com/article/468186-what-is-vitamin-a-palmitate/
Andee
Chameleon Enthusiast
I am sorry that was meant to be herptivite and it got auto corrected on my phone... hate my phone
Here's the explanation of supplements etc...
Most feeder insects have a poor ratio of calcium to phosphorous so we dust the insects at almost every feeding with a phosphorous-free calcium powder. Do not coat them so thickly that they look like ghosts.
We also recommend dusting twice a month slightly with a phosphorous-free calcium/D3 powder to ensure that the chameleon gets some D3 without overdosing it and leaving it to produce the rest of the D3 from its exposure to the UVB light. D3from supplements can build up in the system and lead to health issues such as MBD but D3 produced from exposure to the UVB light won't as long as the chameleon can move in and out of the UVB at will.
It's also recommended that you dust twice a month with a vitamin powder that contains a beta carotene prOformed source of vitamin A. PrOformed sources of vitamin A will not build up in the system like prEformed sources will so it's safe to use....however, you are then responsible to decide if/when your chameleon needs some prEformed vitamin A or not.
It's also important to feed/gutload the insects properly. For crickets, locusts, roaches, superworms you can use a wide assortment of greens and veggies such as dandelion greens, kale, endive, escarole, squash, carrots, zucchini, sweet potato, sweet red pepper, etc and a bit if fruit such as berries, apples, pears, melon. IMHO this is natural and healthy for them.
It's important to provide appropriate basking temperatures because that aids in digestion and thus indirectly plays a part in nutrient absorption.
You need a dripper and a mister too.
The most often recommended UVB light is the long linear Repti-sun 5.0 tube light.
For a basking light a regular white incandescent household bulb is good. There should not be any light at night.
Hope this helps!
Most feeder insects have a poor ratio of calcium to phosphorous so we dust the insects at almost every feeding with a phosphorous-free calcium powder. Do not coat them so thickly that they look like ghosts.
We also recommend dusting twice a month slightly with a phosphorous-free calcium/D3 powder to ensure that the chameleon gets some D3 without overdosing it and leaving it to produce the rest of the D3 from its exposure to the UVB light. D3from supplements can build up in the system and lead to health issues such as MBD but D3 produced from exposure to the UVB light won't as long as the chameleon can move in and out of the UVB at will.
It's also recommended that you dust twice a month with a vitamin powder that contains a beta carotene prOformed source of vitamin A. PrOformed sources of vitamin A will not build up in the system like prEformed sources will so it's safe to use....however, you are then responsible to decide if/when your chameleon needs some prEformed vitamin A or not.
It's also important to feed/gutload the insects properly. For crickets, locusts, roaches, superworms you can use a wide assortment of greens and veggies such as dandelion greens, kale, endive, escarole, squash, carrots, zucchini, sweet potato, sweet red pepper, etc and a bit if fruit such as berries, apples, pears, melon. IMHO this is natural and healthy for them.
It's important to provide appropriate basking temperatures because that aids in digestion and thus indirectly plays a part in nutrient absorption.
You need a dripper and a mister too.
The most often recommended UVB light is the long linear Repti-sun 5.0 tube light.
For a basking light a regular white incandescent household bulb is good. There should not be any light at night.
Hope this helps!
