New to Forum/have question?

[Strawberry27]

Hello,

I'm new here! Thanks for having such an awesome website! Friday, we brought home a male Jackson's chameleon. His tank was set up for a few days to make sure everything was stable before we brought him home. I think I have all the information below!

Today, he has spent pretty much all day hanging around the bottom of his cage or else sitting right in the front of his cage on branch facing the door. As soon as I come near, he puts his feet on the door and scratches at it. I moved some things around inside his cage and every time I opened the door, he immediately came onto my arm. I put him back inside and he would quickly come right back again.

Being new to chameleons, I'm just wondering if attempting to escape at every turn is normal? I read numerous posts that it could mean a few different things. I know the cage is on the small side and is a glass/screen combo, but considering he came from a pet store with a tiny cage - thought he'd think this was paradise at the moment. lol We are going to get a larger cage - not sure if that is something we should do immediately or not.

Have attached a picture of what I am actually looking at - or who is looking at me. Is this normal? LOL

Chameleon Info:
Your Chameleon – Male Jackson. Have only had him three days.
Handling – So far, not unless we have had to.
Feeding – Crickets right now, he has only eaten 5. One yesterday, 4 this morning.
Supplements – Have calcium dust but have not dusted any crickets he has eaten yet.
Watering – Spraying about 3 times a day for about a minute each time. Going to get a drip system going soon. Have seen him drink a couple of times.
Fecal Description – Have not seen much yet
History – Brought him home from a pet store – they will pay for a vet visit for him I feel he needs one. We do have an exotic animal vet in town.

Cage Info:
Cage Type – 16 x 16 x 24 class/screen combo. Going to move up to a much larger all screen cage soon.
Lighting – 50 watt basking bulb, 5.0 UVB Reptisun. Lights go on at 8 and go off at 8 p.m.
Temperature – Basking temp is about 80 degrees. Floor temp is about 72 with humidity level about 75-80. Overnight, temps have dropped to about 69 on the floor, upper level about 70-73. We have two digital thermometers (top and bottom) and a digital hygrometer around the middle of the tank.
Humidity – Humidity stays about 75-80%. We have a fogger we periodically run as well as misting 3 times a day for drinking. We have a digital hygrometer that we use to measure levels.
Plants – Real Plants: Ficus and Pothos as well as some fake vines, and sticks.
Placement – The cage is located in the corner in our living room. No fants, vents, doors near where the cage is. Cage is about 2.5 feet off the floor.
Location – Iowa.

 

[Lathis]

First off - welcome to the Forums! I have a Jax, too. They are just the best! Have you had a chance to review some of the great resources here?

https://www.chameleonforums.com/care/chameleons/
https://www.chameleonforums.com/care/caresheets/jacksons/

Thanks so much for filling out the form. It's very helpful to us. A few things jump out:

1. As you have guessed, the current viv is too small. Jax can be very active climbers and explorers (mine definitely is), and you will want to get him at least a 24x24x48 screen cage. In the meantime, let him out to explore occasionally if you can do that safely. Escaping at every turn is totally normal in my experience, even with his current cage that is 2ft by 3ft by 6ft. He just loves to explore.
   .
2. Provide LOTS of things to climb on of different materials and sizes. Supplement some real branches in with the plastic bendy vines. Try to make little highways that form loops so he can always be moving forward.
   .
3. It sounds like your Jax is very personable, just like my Ferdinand. He was never shy about climbing out and eating from our hands. Just be aware that since Jax are very chill, they do show stress in very subtle ways. Stripes are the obvious one for being unhappy or scared, but a very dark head and bright green body can also mean that he is feeling uneasy. Slow movements, let him climb on you, and being gentle will help him learn to trust you.
   .
4. Jax can be really picky eaters. Our little "princess" is just the worst. Be prepared to offer him a variety of foods. We regularly offer crickets, superworms, and also silkworms (which he is not that fond of) and blue bottle flies (which he loves). I raise isopods and used to raise snails (which was CRAZY about). He will sometimes randomly decide he no longer wants crickets or etc and will only eat some other type of bug. In the summer, I catch him moths. If you are open minded to bugs, there are also a variety of feeder roaches you can try; dubia roaches are a very popular feeder.
   .
5. For supplements, you will need at least two different products: a plain calcium dust with no phosphorus and no D3 and a multivitamin with D3. Plain calcium at least three times a weekly (I always do it on crickets), but only use the multivitamin once a month. Dust lightly.
   .
6. In addition to supplements, you will need to start feeding his crickets a nutritious meal before feeding them to your cham. This is called gut loading. Because Jax are very sensitive to supplements, good gut loading is really important to keep him healthy. Take a look at Sandrachameleon's blogs (https://www.chameleonforums.com/blogs/sandrachameleon/75-feeder-nutrition-gutloading.html). It can be a little overwhelming at first, so don't be discouraged - it's easier than you think. I save veggie and fruit scraps and also provide a commercially produced product (Bug Burger) for gutloading my crickets and superworms.
   .
7. Jax need/like a LOT of water. They can also be really slow to start drinking. Misting only a minute at a time won't be sufficient to keep him hydrated. Try doing one long misting session in the morning and set up a dripper to run the rest of the day. Water in the glass vivs can be really difficult to control, so when you get your screen cage, it will be easier to set up a drainage system. My Jax loves a dripper, so even with an automated MistKing misting system, we still run a dripper for him.
   .
8. The basking temperature at 80 might be a touch too cool. If you see him hanging out under the light all day, try raising the basking spot to about 83-85. If he's not basking all the time, he is probably fine with the current temp. The glass vivs stay warmer than all screen cages, so you'll have to monitor and revisit when you set up his new cage.
   .
9. Jax do need higher humidity than other chams, but a constant humidity of 75-80% is too high and may cause a URI (upper respiratory infection). Shoot for about 50% ambient with spikes to 80% a few times a day with misting. The glass vivs hold humidity longer than screen cages, but that is not always a good thing.
   .
10. I'm in KC, so our environment is very similar to yours. I don't really have any problems with maintaining about 50% humidity even with a large, all screen cage. In the winter, I do run a small cool mist humidifier, and the mister goes off for 15 minutes in the morning, then 5 minutes 4 more times during the day - but I have a big cage and a very efficient drainage system than can handle the water.
    .
11. Real plants are good. Those should do very well in his enclosure.
    .
12. When he's had a bit more time to settle, I would recommend taking him in to the vet for a "well lizard check up". That will give you a chance to get to know the vet before you have a problem too. If you can find fresh droppings, you can take them in for a parasite check. Periodic parasite checks are necessary because parasites can come even from crickets and worms that we buy, not just wild bugs.
    

Whew! Really long post, I'm just excited for you. He's an absolute doll, but you must do two things without delay: 1) give him a name and 2) post more photos!

 

[Strawberry27]

Pics

Thanks for your response! I have planned on getting him for a month now and even though I have spent so much time reading and thinking I was prepared, there is still so much to learn!

I forgot to mention his name - it is Groot. I think it fits his personality! He seemed to be curious at the pet store. The first two days he was here, he did not do much, but today he has not spent it hiding or ignoring us. He has spent in smack in the front of his cage on the branch in front of the door which is not what I expected!

His color changes are one of the most confusing things to me. When we brought him home, he was a horrible pasty green and then once in his cage he turned dark - the one picture I am posting shows him about 5 minutes after we put him in his new home. After awhile, he turned a "normal" green shade and most of the time looks like these other two pictures I posted.

He also does not seem to bask at all. I think once he has sat up there. The basking temp shows about 80 but he spends his time away from it. So maybe it is too hot? Everything I have read says basking between 80-85, but when we had it at 83, Groot was hanging out with his mouth open, so we moved the light farther away and dropped the temperature, no more open mouth.

We have a leopard gecko as well, but I have to say, I have absolutely fallen in love with Groot. He is so fun to watch and I think I have spent half my day just watching him. It's nice company while I do homework!

Thanks so much for taking the time to answer me. I will post pictures of his new cage when we get it set up!

 

[Juliaf3]

My Jackson is not a huge basker. Occasionally after a large meal he will bask for awhile so I don't think you should be to conscerned about that. Groot is adorable! I love that name. He looks great to me. Nice straight limbs. I'd take advantage of that free vet trip and go have him tested for parasites if you have to have a specific reason just say you feel he had parasites. I live in Minnesota- I have my jackson in a cage a created with two 18x18x36 reptibreeze I combined. I have found that my chameleons appreciate more horizontal room then they do vertical room. Especially since we have such loooong winters. I'd invest in some high quality lighting for this reason. In the summer (which is short) they can get that natural sun light. Light Your reptiles has the best in my opinion. You can also get the same lights from canvas chameleons. I love buying stuff from them because a portions of your purchase goes towards conservation efforts in madagascar. Anyway back cage info- The vertical room is more for regulating body temp. I'd give him atleast 36 inches of height. Excellent job in the live plants- they will make maintainaing humidity soooo much easier! Lathis gave you all the info you need! For your guy, I wouldn't feed him crickets that are full grown. Shoot for 1/2 maybe slightly bigger. I gut load my crickets with big burger and greens. I'd like to try some cricket crack. Bug burger is so awesome. Very easy to make and with only 1 chameleon, a 16 ounce bag would last you a looooong time. Gut loading is so crucial! Gut loading your bugs with top notch ingredients will have your boy looking top notch. Gut loading was something I didn't know about when I first got into chameleons- it's amazing the difference it makes in their overall appearance and attitude. Without gut loading, no matter how much they eat, they are simply getting nothing. Welcome to the forums!! Looking forward to seeing more of sweet Groot!

 

[Lathis]

Groot is a hilarious name - love it!

Ditto on the Light Your Reptiles. I just upgraded from the pet store grade Zilla fixtures and OMG what a difference! I'll never go back.