Need help finding right foods

My feedback and any questions will be in red. Helpful links and images will be posted below. Sorry @GrayMadder and @cruz.m if I repeat anything. As long as you make the needed adjustments, he should be okay, depending on how bad his MBD is. Coming here, asking for help, and learning and adjusting is great, so you’ll be a great chameleon mom if you make the changes needed ASAP (and know in the future if you ever get another cham). AN EXPERIENCED CHAMELEON VET IS NEEDED ASAP, THOUGH!

male veiled chameleon he is about 1 year old he has been in my care for about 8 months
he comes and kinda scratches in the corner of his cage so i let him out and he crawls right onto me and i would say i do that about 4 or 5 times a week i know that a lot but he asks to come out This a sign of him wanting to get out because his enclosure is uncomfortable for him, not wanting to come out for attention or anything.
i feed my chameleon 7 crickets every other day i feed him horn worms 2 times a week and as a treat i feed him 2 wax worms a month You should be cutting down to 2-3 crickets (or the equivalent of) every two days or three times a week. They should be properly (and well) gutloaded and supplemented. What do you gutload with, and how do you gutload? Variety is key for gutloads/gutloading ingredients, along with healthy feeders to rotate through! I’ve posted charts for both below.
i feed my chameleon D3 repti calcium once a month and rep-cal herptivite multivitamins every time i feed He needs a quality phosphorus-free calcium without D3 every feeding, a quality phosphorus-free calcium with D3 once every two weeks, and a quality multivitamin without D3 every two weeks. Your multivitamin does not contain preformed Vitamin A, so you’ll need to either switch to one with it in it (like Zoo Med Reptivite without D3) or buy preformed Vitamin A 10,000 IU gel capsules and put a dot on the back of a feeder once to two times a month or as needed. You are overdosing on multivitamins and underdosing calcium and D3. This will change your supplement schedule if your multivitamin has any fat-soluble vitamins in it. Getting bloodwork done from an experienced chameleon vet will be best to determine the levels of everything. I’ll let keepers with more experience in multivitamins add extra info/feedback.
i use a big dripper and i always make sure it is running, i use purified spring water, and i spray his cage 3 to 4 times a day i dont see him drink i used to but not anymore but his pee and poop is normal. His misting sessions should be a minimum of 2-5+ minutes each time for daytime mistings. Try to only mist in the morning and late afternoon/night for his daytime mistings when the cage is cooler, if your humidity allows it.
poop is soft pee is white and one little speck of yellow
no he has never been to the vet yet. He needs an experienced chameleon vet ASAP! Make sure to bring a fresh fecal sample with you, along with getting bloodwork and x-rays done, too. Drop off 2-3+ more fresh fecal samples afterwards to make sure no parasites were missed.
rango got really sick and almost died a couple of months ago he wasnt eating or drinking but he eventually started back up again with the right lighting and some pedialyte A vet is needed. Which pedialyte, how much of it, how often, and how did you do it? I’m not sure how this affected him, so I’ll let others comment on it.
my cage is a screen cage and i believe it is 30"L x 18"w x 30'H As long as his grip strength is good, he needs a minimum size cage of 2’ x 2’ x 4’ tall, but preferably 4’ x 2’ x 4’ tall or bigger. Bigger is always better!
i have the zoo med reptisun 10.0 uvb mini compact fluorescent and i use a repti basking spot lamp He needs a linear UVB bulb and fixture (either the length of his permanent bigger enclosure or a foot longer) ASAP! Get an Arcadia 6% of the matching size if you can; they are preferred over Zoo Med 5.0 linear bulbs because you only have to replace them once a year (Zoo Med is every 6 months). Either way, get a Solarmeter 6.5 to check UVI levels and know when to replace his UVB bulb (when the readings are cut in half) if you can afford it! When it gets warmer out, take him outside for natural UVB (just make sure you don’t give too much D3 if he’s kept long enough out there). GET RID OF THE RED HEAT BULB ASAP! He needs a regular white light household incandescent bulb for his basking bulb! You’ll have to play around with the wattages to get the correct temps! How far away is his basking branch from his UVB and heat bulbs?
i use a reptile thermometer i got it from petco and his cgae temp is always between 75-90 degrees overnight temp is about 60 degrees That is too hot. Male veileds basking temps should be 85*F at the max! Raise the dome and heat bulb up higher and/or get a lower wattage bulb. Overnight temp is perfect. Is your thermometer digital or analog? If it’s digital, does it have a probe? You need a digital thermometer with a probe and put the probe where his casque/top of his back is when he’s on his basking branch. It shouldn’t be above 85*F there!
i use a humidity Gage from petco, it stays about 40-60% humidity. Veileds need between 30-50% humidity during the day and up to 100% at night. Is your hygrometer digital or analog?
i took out one of my live plants because he was eating the dirt. He needs to have live plants (chameleon-safe and properly cleaned) only! You must cover all soil in the pots with rocks too big for him to eat! Take out all fake plants, fake leaves and bunches, fake vines with leaves on them, fake flowers, etc. ASAP! They are an impaction risk for veileds! He needs only live plants, real and/or fake vines (fake without leaves on them), and branches (that don’t come from sap-producing trees)!
the cage is located in my bedroom around 5 feet from a window and i run the fan in my room on low to get good air circulation. and like i said im not at home right now so im guessing the top is about 8 or so feet from my floor. How fast is your fan on low?
i live in Minnesota
im concerned about my food scheduled im giving him and MBD First experienced chameleon vet, proper lighting and supplements, proper temps and humidity, and live plants only, then cage size and everything else!

Here are the links and images (make sure to read through every module and listen to as many podcasts as possible from The Chameleon Academy, they have the most accurate and up-to-date info!):

https://www.chameleons.info/en/
http://www.muchadoaboutchameleons.com/
https://flchams.com/chameleon-safe-plant-list/
https://www.chameleonforums.com/care/external-resources/
https://chameleonacademy.com/chameleon-husbandry-program-getting-started-with-chameleons/
https://chameleonacademy.com/veiled-chameleon-care/
https://chameleonacademy.com/plants/
https://chameleonacademy.com/setting-up-a-chameleon-cage/
http://www.muchadoaboutchameleons.com/2012/04/how-to-set-up-proper-chameleon.html
 

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Red light is bad throw it out. You need real plants these plants all look fake and he could consume them which will lead to impaction. The fact that you came on here makes me think otherwise. @GrayMadder is right look at those, awesome links! Fix the husbandry and go to the vet. I’d recommend you get a bigger cage or make one 2x2x4, find some real sticks and disinfect them, add real plants take out those fake ones, get knew supplements also you need to gut load get, and new lights as mentioned here a link to some plants you can use! And gut loading https://chameleonacademy.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/12/Chameleon-Plants-122819.pdf
Oh yes I did about a week ago! This picture is kinda old it was the only one I had
 
Well the fact you came here tells me otherwise! Everyone makes mistakes and everyone learns. Don't be so hard on yourself. You did the best to your knowledge.

You are first going to want to change his lighting. He will need a t5 ho linear bulb and fixture. I use an arcadia t5 ho linear fixture with a 6% bulb.

Your supplementation is a bit off too. He needs a phosphorous free calcium without d3 every day. He will need calcium w d3 twice and month and the multivitamin without d3 twice a month on alternate days of your cal w d3. So for instance 6 days calcium without d3 and on the 7th day would be the calcium w d3. 6 more days of calcium without d3 and the 7th day multivitamin.

Because he has MBD I would take him to the vet. The vet will be able to give you some advice on helping with it that way he can still have an enjoyable life.

I provided you some links for lighting and supplements from neptune the chameleon. Shes awesome. I also attached husbandry basics you can take a look at the modules and read thru to learn about proper husbandry.

https://chameleonacademy.com/chameleon-husbandry-program-getting-started-with-chameleons/



Just got back from the pet store and got everything I need. Thank you so much for your help.
 
What strength of strip light, and what brand of linear bulb? Be aware your cham needs a longer fixture, either the length of or a foot longer than his permanent bigger cage
So you mean length not strength? If so it is 20 inches long and I will be using another 10.0 13 watt bulb with it. If that is ok?
 
We got a strip light fixture 5.0 uvb 18” and then I need to order one of the calcium’s on Amazon
Is it a T5HO? And here are links to the supplements although one of them is more expensive on Amazon depending who you buy from

https://www.amazon.com/Zoo-Med-Rept...ut+d3&qid=1611715135&sprefix=reptivite&sr=8-2
https://www.amazon.com/Rep-Cal-Phos...hout+d3+phosphorus+free&qid=1611715259&sr=8-7
https://www.amazon.com/Rep-Cal-Calc...p_85:2470955011&rnid=2470954011&rps=1&sr=8-15

I forgot what links were for what so I don’t know if I forgot any I don’t think I did but those are the ones you need the brand you don’t have to buy from Amazon
 
So you mean length not strength? If so it is 20 inches long and I will be using another 10.0 13 watt bulb with it. If that is ok?
You need a T5 High Output fixture the length of (or a foot longer than) his bigger enclosure needed (whichever size you pick). The strength and brand of the liner UVB bulb needs to be either an Arcadia 6% or Zoo Med 5.0
 
You need a T5 High Output fixture the length of (or a foot longer than) his bigger enclosure needed (whichever size you pick). The strength and brand of the liner UVB bulb needs to be either an Arcadia 6% or Zoo Med 5.0
Ok so they didn’t have a T5 high output so we got a 15 watt T8 5.0 zoo med bulb
 
Ok so they didn’t have a T5 high output so we got a 15 watt T8 5.0 zoo med bulb
Yeah they usually never do. Is there an lllreptile near you? T8 are better than compacts but I’d still say you need the Arcadia t5ho 6% or the Zoo Med t5ho 5.0 linear uvb light at least 24”
 
I do not have any near me. Would this stuff work for now?
If you see the light video @Gingero posted she tests them out. Honestly you’re just wasting money but keep the receipts and the boxes they come with. Order one online from the link I put, at least 24” then you can return the t8 but get it as soon as you can. Where are you located maybe I can find a store near you that does sell if you can’t order online

https://www.pangeareptile.com/store/arcadia-prot5-uvb-kit.html

https://www.pangeareptile.com/store/zoo-med-reptisun-t5-ho-terrarium-hood.html
 
If you see the light video @Gingero posted she tests them out. Honestly you’re just wasting money but keep the receipts and the boxes they come with. Order one online from the link I put, at least 24” then you can return the t8 but get it as soon as you can. Where are you located maybe I can find a store near you that does sell if you can’t order online

https://www.pangeareptile.com/store/arcadia-prot5-uvb-kit.html

https://www.pangeareptile.com/store/zoo-med-reptisun-t5-ho-terrarium-hood.html
That’s ok we will look online and find everything thank you!
 
Yeah they usually never do. Is there an lllreptile near you? T8 are better than compacts but I’d still say you need the Arcadia t5ho 6% or the Zoo Med t5ho 5.0 linear uvb light at least 24”
Get a Zoo Med 10.0 bulb while you find and buy a T5 HO fixture of the correct length with either an Arcadia 6%/Zoo Med 5.0 UVB bulb
 
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