My New Veiled Chameleon is not eating ?

MelissaN

New Member
I am a new member and I had just bought a male Veiled chameleon. His name is scooter. At first he seemed to want crickets as his first choice of insect preference and then he slowed down his eating. He was shedding and still continues but he still has not eating for about 5 days. He only has had a few super worms and crickets don’t seem to be a preference any longer. My question is this, is it normal for chameleons to go such a long period without eating and change his preference to super worms instead? I’m concerned ?. His humidity levels are usually in the 50%range sometimes dropping slightly I mist about 3X daily and he also has a fogger. I bought it in hopes it would help with keeping the humidity up. The mesh cage is awesome but I find keeping the humidity where is should be is a challenge. Any insight would be so helpful.
 

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I am a new member and I had just bought a male Veiled chameleon. His name is scooter. At first he seemed to want crickets as his first choice of insect preference and then he slowed down his eating. He was shedding and still continues but he still has not eating for about 5 days. He only has had a few super worms and crickets don’t seem to be a preference any longer. My question is this, is it normal for chameleons to go such a long period without eating and change his preference to super worms instead? I’m concerned ?. His humidity levels are usually in the 50%range sometimes dropping slightly I mist about 3X daily and he also has a fogger. I bought it in hopes it would help with keeping the humidity up. The mesh cage is awesome but I find keeping the humidity where is should be is a challenge. Any insight would be so helpful.
To get a full picture of everything, if you could answer the help questions, you can get more complete advice.

Chameleon Info:
  • Your Chameleon - The species, sex, and age of your chameleon. How long has it been in your care?
  • Handling - How often do you handle your chameleon?
  • Feeding - What are you feeding your cham? What amount? What is the schedule? How are you gut-loading your feeders?
  • Supplements - What brand and type of calcium and vitamin products are you dusting your feeders with and what is the schedule?
  • Watering - What kind of watering technique do you use? How often and how long to you mist? Do you see your chameleon drinking?
  • Fecal Description - Briefly note colors and consistency from recent droppings. Has this chameleon ever been tested for parasites?
  • History - Any previous information about your cham that might be useful to others when trying to help you.

Cage Info:
  • Cage Type - Describe your cage (Glass, Screen, Combo?) What are the dimensions?
  • Lighting - What brand, model, and types of lighting are you using? What is your daily lighting schedule?
  • Temperature - What temp range have you created (cage floor to basking spot)? Lowest overnight temp? How do you measure these temps?
  • Humidity - What are your humidity levels? How are you creating and maintaining these levels? What do you use to measure humidity?
  • Plants - Are you using live plants? If so, what kind?
  • Placement - Where is your cage located? Is it near any fans, air vents, or high traffic areas? At what height is the top of the cage relative to your room floor?
  • Location - Where are you geographically located?

Current Problem - The current problem you are concerned about.

--------------

Please Note:
  1. The more details you provide the better and more accurate help you will receive.
  2. Photos can be very helpful.
I will tell you though, that you don’t want your daytime humidity to go above 50%. It needs to stay between 30-50%. I believe I see a waterfall in your enclosure. That really needs to go as they become bacterial soup and are a health risk. Veiled’s will occasionally eat fruits and veggies, but they don’t need them or really benefit from them (per current knowledge). Need your answers to address more. :)
 
To get a full picture of everything, if you could answer the help questions, you can get more complete advice.

Chameleon Info:
  • Your Chameleon - The species, sex, and age of your chameleon. How long has it been in your care?
  • Handling - How often do you handle your chameleon?
  • Feeding - What are you feeding your cham? What amount? What is the schedule? How are you gut-loading your feeders?
  • Supplements - What brand and type of calcium and vitamin products are you dusting your feeders with and what is the schedule?
  • Watering - What kind of watering technique do you use? How often and how long to you mist? Do you see your chameleon drinking?
  • Fecal Description - Briefly note colors and consistency from recent droppings. Has this chameleon ever been tested for parasites?
  • History - Any previous information about your cham that might be useful to others when trying to help you.

Cage Info:
  • Cage Type - Describe your cage (Glass, Screen, Combo?) What are the dimensions?
  • Lighting - What brand, model, and types of lighting are you using? What is your daily lighting schedule?
  • Temperature - What temp range have you created (cage floor to basking spot)? Lowest overnight temp? How do you measure these temps?
  • Humidity - What are your humidity levels? How are you creating and maintaining these levels? What do you use to measure humidity?
  • Plants - Are you using live plants? If so, what kind?
  • Placement - Where is your cage located? Is it near any fans, air vents, or high traffic areas? At what height is the top of the cage relative to your room floor?
  • Location - Where are you geographically located?

Current Problem - The current problem you are concerned about.

--------------

Please Note:
  1. The more details you provide the better and more accurate help you will receive.
  2. Photos can be very helpful.
I will tell you though, that you don’t want your daytime humidity to go above 50%. It needs to stay between 30-50%. I believe I see a waterfall in your enclosure. That really needs to go as they become bacterial soup and are a health risk. Veiled’s will occasionally eat fruits and veggies, but they don’t need them or really benefit from them (per current knowledge). Need your answers to address more. :)
Well to start I’ve had him for about a month now. He’s a juvenile not sure what age and is a male. I just started to handle him a few days ago as I was told to let him get use to his new surroundings (home) before doing so. I feed him super worms, Meal worms, wax worms, crickets and on occasion green horn worms. I do give him kale, strawberries, kiwi and comes peas and shredded carrots just as a verity in case he does want them. I was told he eats anywhere from 10
To 12 crickets daily. My feeding schedule is usually about an hour After his lights come back on around Around 8 am. His lights are in a timer and are off at 7 pm. As for the waterfall I can take that out I bought that before I bought the fogger. I do take it out daily towards the evening and clean and and refill it in the am. I guy load my feeder insects by giving them plenty amounts of kale lettuce spinach shredded carrot, apple, kiwi, oranges and cucumbers. The calcium supplement I use to coat them prior to placing them into my feeder is repti calcium with vit d3 and phosphorus free. My watering technique is misting three times a day as well as the fogger. Droplets of water and condensation which develop on the leaves seem to be giving him enough. I see him drinking from time to time from the droplets created by the fogger and also on the leaves. As for his fecal description I will post a picture and I’ve noted how often he goes. He urinates daily and same with droppings aside from lately because he isn’t eating that much. He has not been tested for Parasites. I got him from Pet Smart here in Toronto,Ontario Canada.
screen cage and dimensions are: 30x16x16. It was a started kit. I will as he gets a little older upsize.
Lighting I use a liner UVB bulb 10.0 zoo med repti sun 15 watt. I also have a heat daytime bulb zoo med reptile daytime light
 

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I’ll put my responses in red.
Well to start I’ve had him for about a month now. He’s a juvenile not sure what age and is a male. I just started to handle him a few days ago as I was told to let him get use to his new surroundings (home) before doing so. Perfect I feed him super worms, Meal worms, wax worms, crickets and on occasion green horn worms. Meal worms aren’t a good feeder. What are you gutloading with? It’s important to feed the bugs well to pass nutrients on to your cham. Attaching feeder & gutload graphics. I do give him kale, strawberries, kiwi and comes peas and shredded carrots just as a verity in case he does want them. Is ok for an occasional treat. My chams love blueberries so I give a couple every now & then. I was told he eats anywhere from 10
To 12 crickets daily. Depending on his age, this may be a bit too much. Usually chams will regulate their own appetite/feeding and then you’ll cut back. I have girls so feed only 3-4 bugs every other day. My feeding schedule is usually about an hour After his lights come back on around Around 8 am. Perfect His lights are in a timer and are off at 7 pm. Good. Usually we try to keep them on a 12 hour schedule. As for the waterfall I can take that out I bought that before I bought the fogger. If you like the look of the waterfall, keep it but just let it stay empty. I do take it out daily towards the evening and clean and and refill it in the am. I guy load my feeder insects by giving them plenty amounts of kale lettuce spinach shredded carrot, apple, kiwi, oranges and cucumbers. Lol I read thru too fast the first time. Oh well. The calcium supplement I use to coat them prior to placing them into my feeder is repti calcium with vit d3 and phosphorus free. This you need to change ASAP. Bit D can build up in their systems and cause health problems. Basic supplement schedule is calcium with NO D at every feeding except one per week. That one weekly feeding you want to alternate between calcium WITH D3 and a multivitamin. Depending on how long you’ve been giving the D3 daily, you should probably hold off on giving it for at least a couple of weeks. My watering technique is misting three times a day as well as the fogger. Good. Spraying 3 times daily for at least 2 minutes is perfect. Don’t use the Fogger during the day though as excess humidity plus heat can cause respiratory infection. At night when it’s cool, you can use the Fogger and humidity can go as high as 100%. Droplets of water and condensation which develop on the leaves seem to be giving him enough. I see him drinking from time to time from the droplets created by the fogger and also on the leaves. As for his fecal description I will post a picture and I’ve noted how often he goes. He urinates daily and same with droppings aside from lately because he isn’t eating that much. He has not been tested for Parasites. It’s always a good idea to get a fecal checked for parasites. I got him from Pet Smart here in Toronto,Ontario Canada.
screen cage and dimensions are: 30x16x16. It was a started kit. I will as he gets a little older upsize. Yes, minimum enclosure for an adult is 24x24x48” or equivalent.
Lighting I use a liner UVB bulb 10.0 zoo med repti sun 15 watt. Not sure about this uvb light. I’m going to say it isn’t sufficient. The best to use is a linear T5 ho with a 5.0 (or Arcadia brand 6%) light that spans the width of your enclosure. Most other lighting isn’t able to provide adequate uvb levels. I also have a heat daytime bulb zoo med reptile daytime light You haven’t said what your temps are. Basking should be around 85*. I wouldn’t go any higher until he’s a full adult.
Now...the super worms. They are like candy and can be addictive to chams. I’ve heard that some go on hunger strikes until they get their supers. If your guy is otherwise healthy, you’ll have to just wait him out. You could try offering something like silkworms instead...those are a healthy feeder. Because of their addictiveness, supers should just be an occasional treat. I offer a variety on a regular basis...roaches, silkies, bsfl, crickets...they never really know what they’re going to get. Lol Every couple of months I give a few supers (honestly they gross me out more than my roaches).
About your enclosure...you need more branches and vines to provide more little roads for Scooter. Also, as veiled’s nibble their plants, you’ll want to replace the fake ones with real...just make sure they are safe. Pothos is always a great plant for chams.
Besides the forum, there are a couple of other great resources that I recommend you check out.
https://chameleonacademy.com/. Also can find podcasts there.
If you prefer video, try https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC3n4S2GRkOGfk2U8-xhaw6Q Is by a forum member and she has a video for just about everything and always adding more.
Hope all of this helps. Ask any more questions you may have. :)

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Thanks MissSkittles,

His Basking spot is usually around 85 and humidity is 35-50%range. I will definitely try the fogger at night. His night temps drop to usually around his basking spot where he sleeps to about 70-75. Other then that I also wanted to ask you what would you suggest is best for the bottom of the terrarium. I have those eco mats but they really soak up the water. I have to wash them and dry them out often. I really really appreciate all your knowledge and help. I’m still worried about his appetite. He still hasn’t eaten anything today it’s going on day 5. ?
 
Thanks MissSkittles,

His Basking spot is usually around 85 and humidity is 35-50%range. I will definitely try the fogger at night. His night temps drop to usually around his basking spot where he sleeps to about 70-75. Other then that I also wanted to ask you what would you suggest is best for the bottom of the terrarium. I have those eco mats but they really soak up the water. I have to wash them and dry them out often. I really really appreciate all your knowledge and help. I’m still worried about his appetite. He still hasn’t eaten anything today it’s going on day 5. ?
Keeping the bottom of the enclosure bare is easiest to clean. The repti carpet and mats when always wet are more bacterial breeding grounds. You may need to come up with a way to drain the excess water. There’s so very many ways that this can be done and everybody has their own system. There’s drainage trays you can buy, sit your enclosure on a large planter or stable bin and drill a couple of drainage holes in the bottom tray, sit a large Pothos on the bottom and weave the vines up...whatever you can create that works.
As long as Scooter is still drinking, active, basking and staying awake during the day, he should be fine. Chams can go a lot longer than we think without eating. Skip the salad and only offer him feeders. I believe you can’t get roaches in Canada, but you should be able to get silkworms, bsfl and other feeders to try. If you can find some feeders that fly, that may perk up his interest.
 
Keeping the bottom of the enclosure bare is easiest to clean. The repti carpet and mats when always wet are more bacterial breeding grounds. You may need to come up with a way to drain the excess water. There’s so very many ways that this can be done and everybody has their own system. There’s drainage trays you can buy, sit your enclosure on a large planter or stable bin and drill a couple of drainage holes in the bottom tray, sit a large Pothos on the bottom and weave the vines up...whatever you can create that works.
As long as Scooter is still drinking, active, basking and staying awake during the day, he should be fine. Chams can go a lot longer than we think without eating. Skip the salad and only offer him feeders. I believe you can’t get roaches in Canada, but you should be able to get silkworms, bsfl and other feeders to try. If you can find some feeders that fly, that may perk up his interest.
Thanks again. The start screen Terrarium comes with a flat solid bottom and I think I’m going to need a try to catch the excess water. It gets really wet. I will continue to leave feeders in his dish although the crickets always find there way out and roam around the enclosure. I hope his appetite picks up soon. He’s active and always goes down to the bottom as if he’s hunting but just hasn’t eaten. He’s rambunctious and when the door is open he tries to escape so I put my hand up and he climbs on it and likes to run across my sofa aka hence his name scooter lol. I love him and it’s a first reptile for me and I love him so Much. Thanks again and I followed you so if I need any more info may I message you
Much.
 
Thanks again. The start screen Terrarium comes with a flat solid bottom and I think I’m going to need a try to catch the excess water. It gets really wet. I will continue to leave feeders in his dish although the crickets always find there way out and roam around the enclosure. I hope his appetite picks up soon. He’s active and always goes down to the bottom as if he’s hunting but just hasn’t eaten. He’s rambunctious and when the door is open he tries to escape so I put my hand up and he climbs on it and likes to run across my sofa aka hence his name scooter lol. I love him and it’s a first reptile for me and I love him so Much. Thanks again and I followed you so if I need any more info may I message you
Much.
Yes, absolutely.
 
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