My husbandry form and introduction

Your Chameleon - 3- 1 male Cap Est juvenile , 1 female panther specific local unknown age 1.5 was told these 2 in my care for 4 days . 1 male panther was told either Ambilobe or ambanja (rolls eyes) how to tell the difference ? He’s a juvenile had him almost 3 weeks.
Handling - handled at total clean outs 1-2 times a week. Now that I’m batteling cocc. Parasite it will be spot sterilization with a garment steamer along with peroxide wipe ups. Usually the handelinh consist of me going from under them geting them to come to me . Then onto another hang out spot while I clean. Now that I have the parasite everyone will stay put except once a day to get medicine orally. No free roaming or inter mingling
Feeding - I keep a bin of gut loaded crix, on fresh spring mix veggies flowers of my hibiscuses, wax worms (sparingly not much interest in them ) horn worms I pick up a bin and offer one every few days I plann in adding roaches as a staple over crix . What amount? 5-10 of each feeder staple offered every other day , other feeder offered in between as treats during cleaning etc . Thes chams have parasites and aren’t eating much so what ever they will eat I offer. Havent been in my care long enough to get them on a schedule. I did find “feeder run” thing on unclaimed baggage .com for $25 instead of $50 none are interested in it the crix don’t climb it and the worms get stuck. I got it to see how it’s made so I can make them but I’m unimpressed this far other than the magnet. The rest is common science .
Supplements - I use repashy straight calcium every feed 2 x a month 15th and 30th ( coincides with when I got the first) I use calcium multivitamin with low d however I’m confused on if I should be using the one with the chameleon on it or the one with the leopard gecko?
Watering -
I plan on geting a mist king , would have ordered it when I ordered my larger cages however with the parasites ...will it infect my mist system ? Till I have a concrete answer to that I’m misting with Brita water minimal 3 times a day. Before the lights come on , before I feed around lunch time and then while I’m making dinner. Always allowing a total dry out. I see the 2 I got together opening and licking the insides of their mouths and lips their heated are white and some yellow streaking , the other guy Loves to drink has favorite spots to sit and will ignore food to drink of water drops are present so he requires a dry cage for feeding or the crix go hide and I have to chase them down and replace them later ( never putting them from a terrarium to a bin. If anything they would go in a desperate bin used to make cricket babies.
Fecal Description - Formed but obvious parasites as it’s mucous like jelly And peroxide flares up on it big time and it starts to wiggle.
Has this chameleon ever been tested for parasites? One has , I’m giving all 3 the same treatment, I will be taking in all 3 one at a time. I just had to trash $70 in real plants and replace everything with $100 worth of fake. Some will be used in future permanent housing with approval from the admins recommended use of fake plants as staple or accessory with “Panther” chams only !!!
History - Any previous information about your cham that might be useful to others when trying to help you. I have none. And the first guy the one I got alone. I got him because he had an injury. It was either stuck shed or a bite from a larger cham or a cut on both sides one worse than the other. He came running to me and I couldn’t leave him to get infected. It’s healing nicely. I can’t remember if the scales and color will come back and if there is anything I should be putting on it? The female that I took to the vet , I took her in for some stuck shed on the eye lid edge that looked goopy 24hrs after I took possession. Vet removed it and said all clear not worried and dismissed the bump bubble in the opposite eye. However today 24hrs after vet visit it’s gooped over and cloudy again , and she’s closing and moving the other eye around trying to remove something is my guess. I however stressed it again before I left and they were unconcerned. What do I do when I call them in the morning. Is it wrong to not want to pay another office visit for an issue I originally presented with ?
Cage Info: currently 2 -16x30 and 1 18x18x30 / perms with be the standard desired size of 24x28
Cage Type - reptibreeze deluxe xls
Lighting - 12/12 Arcadia t5 6% 48in fixture over 3 cages x2 staggered with 3 75 (I think) incandescent basking bulbs in domes (will be at angles ) basking is at about 78-85 depending on my ac night time ambient is 68 ( still trying to situate it all and they aren’t in their permanent location in my home so I’m working with what I have till my rack is built and they are out of quarantine in my living room where I can see any sudden health concerns.
How do you measure these temps? I have a tech gun still figuring out all its settings
Humidity - haven’t had my probes set up in their area yet. However my house sits aT 40% ambient humidity I have a humidifier going in the room their in and a small digital one proped inside reads about 55-70% depending on how recent I misted them.
How are you creating and maintaining these levels? Humidifier misting and probe temp checking . What do you use to measure humidity? Ac infinity cloud9 inline fan with carbon filter and fan for circulation without draft it has a state of the art screen for humidity with alarms and will use it’s fan to circulate air and the carbon filter removes smells from the air from the feeders and poop . ( got to love having a little know how about indoor hydroponics a lot of the same equipment ) so yeah it tells me the temp and humidity and I can see it from my phone.
Plants - Are you using live plants? If so, what kind? Schflerra pothos hibiscus cheese plant , now I’m using fake while in quarantine.
Placement - Where is your cage located? Is it near any fans, air vents, or high traffic areas? No direct air , traffic yes but not stress level. They are at a far wall alone to one side of the room able to see everything but not be seen. At what height is the top of the cage relative to your room floor? 6-7 ft I think. Seriously I have them on a folding table that rises it’s on the highest setting and I have to use a step ladder to go in them ( I’m 5’1)
Location - Where are you geographically located? South East Florida USA
Current Problem - The current problem you are concerned about. In the afore mentions where it pertains or I would forget.
So with out further procrastination. Please welcome Peaches and her gang ( boys have no names yet. Some of these photos are not in their enclosures or part of what I have them in just what I have to reference each with. I haven’t been intrusive unless necessary in order to get good photos. ( one hates me and he bit the blood out of my finger today ) so he gets dark as soon as I open up the cage lol. I can’t name him Gator as I already had a Cham that bit named Gator. Photo of the adult cap Est I was told is my guys father. So any help with positive ID on these 3 would be appreciated.
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I haven’t read thru your husbandry, but what is up with the lady’s eye?
That’s what I took her to the vet for. I planned on taking all 3 In two weeks . So her eye had a tiny bit of stuck shed or bug juice I thought on the edge of her eye. The next day it had folded over and touched her whole turret opening. I have a loupe and couldn’t seen it well enough to gauge Weber or not I could just touch it with a q-tip and move it so I called the vet. They removed the debri. She was good. I also inquired about the bump bubble in the other eye towards her nose, sometimes it’s there some times it’s not. Her eye was fine all day yesterday looked great this morning and through me cleaning everything out then bam clouded over again. So I have to call the vet in in the morning and be that “Karen” that says I freaking told you so fix it and I’m not paying another office visit for something stressed while I was here and again on my way out. She came to me this way. All 3 did I’ve had the 2 since sat/sun and the one for almost 3 weeks.
 
I’ll put my feedback in red.
Your Chameleon - 3- 1 male Cap Est juvenile , 1 female panther specific local unknown age 1.5 was told these 2 in my care for 4 days . 1 male panther was told either Ambilobe or ambanja (rolls eyes) how to tell the difference ? He’s a juvenile had him almost 3 weeks.
Handling - handled at total clean outs 1-2 times a week. Now that I’m batteling cocc. Parasite it will be spot sterilization with a garment steamer along with peroxide wipe ups. Usually the handelinh consist of me going from under them geting them to come to me . Then onto another hang out spot while I clean. Now that I have the parasite everyone will stay put except once a day to get medicine orally. No free roaming or inter mingling
Feeding - I keep a bin of gut loaded crix, on fresh spring mix veggies flowers of my hibiscuses, wax worms (sparingly not much interest in them ) horn worms I pick up a bin and offer one every few days I plann in adding roaches as a staple over crix . What amount? I’m not sure how battling coccidia will affect how much they should be eating. I feed each of my chams (veiled & panther) 3-4 staple feeders, 3 days a week, with occasional treats. You could improve your gutload a bit. I’ll attach the graphic. 5-10 of each feeder staple offered every other day , other feeder offered in between as treats during cleaning etc . Thes chams have parasites and aren’t eating much so what ever they will eat I offer. Havent been in my care long enough to get them on a schedule. I did find “feeder run” thing on unclaimed baggage .com for $25 instead of $50 none are interested in it the crix don’t climb it and the worms get stuck. I got it to see how it’s made so I can make them but I’m unimpressed this far other than the magnet. I use and really like the shooting gallery feeder. https://tkchameleons.com/ The rest is common science .
Supplements - I use repashy straight calcium every feed 2 x a month 15th and 30th ( coincides with when I got the first) I use calcium multivitamin with low d however I’m confused on if I should be using the one with the chameleon on it or the one with the leopard gecko? I believe the LoD would be considered as just the D3 and would be used twice a month in addition to a multivitamin without D3 used one feeding every other week, alternating with the LoD. At least this is what my vet suggested. I personally don’t care for the LoD. I use Reptivite with D3 once every other week. I believe the Calcium Plus with the leopard gecko on it could be used similarly as the Reptivite with D3.
Watering -
I plan on geting a mist king , would have ordered it when I ordered my larger cages however with the parasites ...will it infect my mist system ? Till I have a concrete answer to that I’m misting with Brita water minimal 3 times a day. I would be concerned about infecting the mist heads, even though I’d think the risk would be low. Is best to wait. Before the lights come on , before I feed around lunch time and then while I’m making dinner. Always allowing a total dry out. I see the 2 I got together opening and licking the insides of their mouths and lips their heated are white and some yellow streaking , the other guy Loves to drink has favorite spots to sit and will ignore food to drink of water drops are present so he requires a dry cage for feeding or the crix go hide and I have to chase them down and replace them later ( never putting them from a terrarium to a bin. If anything they would go in a desperate bin used to make cricket babies. Are you misting for at least 2 minutes each time? I know antibiotics and other meds can be hard on the kidneys. You may want to add a dripper for maybe 20 minutes daily.
Fecal Description - Formed but obvious parasites as it’s mucous like jelly And peroxide flares up on it big time and it starts to wiggle.
Has this chameleon ever been tested for parasites? One has , I’m giving all 3 the same treatment, I will be taking in all 3 one at a time. I just had to trash $70 in real plants and replace everything with $100 worth of fake. Some will be used in future permanent housing with approval from the admins recommended use of fake plants as staple or accessory with “Panther” chams only !!!
History - Any previous information about your cham that might be useful to others when trying to help you. I have none. And the first guy the one I got alone. I got him because he had an injury. It was either stuck shed or a bite from a larger cham or a cut on both sides one worse than the other. He came running to me and I couldn’t leave him to get infected. It’s healing nicely. I can’t remember if the scales and color will come back and if there is anything I should be putting on it? The female that I took to the vet , I took her in for some stuck shed on the eye lid edge that looked goopy 24hrs after I took possession. Vet removed it and said all clear not worried and dismissed the bump bubble in the opposite eye. However today 24hrs after vet visit it’s gooped over and cloudy again , and she’s closing and moving the other eye around trying to remove something is my guess. I however stressed it again before I left and they were unconcerned. What do I do when I call them in the morning. Is it wrong to not want to pay another office visit for an issue I originally presented with ? I totally get it, but the vet may not. :rolleyes: Your girl may need a good eye flush and some antibacterial eye drops. Correct supplements with preformed vitamin A will also help her eyes.
Cage Info: currently 2 -16x30 and 1 18x18x30 / perms with be the standard desired size of 24x28
Cage Type - reptibreeze deluxe xls
Lighting - 12/12 Arcadia t5 6% 48in fixture over 3 cages x2 staggered with 3 75 (I think) incandescent basking bulbs in domes (will be at angles ) basking is at about 78-85 depending on my ac night time ambient is 68 ( still trying to situate it all and they aren’t in their permanent location in my home so I’m working with what I have till my rack is built and they are out of quarantine in my living room where I can see any sudden health concerns.
How do you measure these temps? I have a tech gun still figuring out all its settings Temp guns can only measure surface temps. You’ll want to get digital thermometers with probes for when they get in their permanent enclosures.
Humidity - haven’t had my probes set up in their area yet. However my house sits aT 40% ambient humidity I have a humidifier going in the room their in and a small digital one proped inside reads about 55-70% depending on how recent I misted them. To add to their hydration, you could increase their humidity at night when it’s cool to 80-100%. It simulates natural hydration.
How are you creating and maintaining these levels? Humidifier misting and probe temp checking . What do you use to measure humidity? Ac infinity cloud9 inline fan with carbon filter and fan for circulation without draft it has a state of the art screen for humidity with alarms and will use it’s fan to circulate air and the carbon filter removes smells from the air from the feeders and poop . ( got to love having a little know how about indoor hydroponics a lot of the same equipment ) so yeah it tells me the temp and humidity and I can see it from my phone. I’m technologically challenged, so I have no idea what that is, but it sounds cool!
Plants - Are you using live plants? If so, what kind? Schflerra pothos hibiscus cheese plant , now I’m using fake while in quarantine.
Placement - Where is your cage located? Is it near any fans, air vents, or high traffic areas? No direct air , traffic yes but not stress level. They are at a far wall alone to one side of the room able to see everything but not be seen. At what height is the top of the cage relative to your room floor? 6-7 ft I think. Seriously I have them on a folding table that rises it’s on the highest setting and I have to use a step ladder to go in them ( I’m 5’1)
Location - Where are you geographically located? South East Florida USA
Current Problem - The current problem you are concerned about. In the afore mentions where it pertains or I would forget.
So with out further procrastination. Please welcome Peaches Great name! and her gang ( boys have no names yet. Some of these photos are not in their enclosures or part of what I have them in just what I have to reference each with. I haven’t been intrusive unless necessary in order to get good photos. ( one hates me and he bit the blood out of my finger today ) Dang! 😲so he gets dark as soon as I open up the cage lol. I can’t name him Gator as I already had a Cham that bit named Gator. Croc? Photo of the adult cap Est I was told is my guys father. So any help with positive ID on these 3 would be appreciated. I actually had to look up cap est, so I can’t help you with that, but I’m sure another member can.
So far, unless I’ve missed something, it looks like you’ve got a great handle on everything, even if it all is complicated by parasites.
I’m going to assume you know that your lady will eventually be laying infertile eggs and will need a lay bin. If you don’t and need any help with that, just ask. :)
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I know about the bin , but it’s a no no unless she needs it which will be soon given her coloring , I know I need to add to my gut load. Just what’s in the bin now. My online fan is just a fancy ac thermostat probe with humidity scensor and it’s sensitive. I use that ( have to move it around ) to check ambient temps and over all humidity. Yes , those 3 mistings I mist for a while. The. I let them drink then I mist some more. I mist a lot. I have kidney problems so if I’m sipping I’m also spraying. A dropper would not be hygienic. As they generally will begin touching their tongue to it infecting the entire container. and a lot of drainage to clean up. I did that rodeo a decade ago. Never again. A mister totally doable. Misting by hand and truly doing it right I got that no problem. In between when my ac is on (running) it can get to 83 in my house till it kicks on (78) then To 75 when someone thinks it’s hot then night it swings to 78. With that heat comes the humidity. And while it may say 30-40 in my house I assure you it’s a wet 30-40 % cause any cookie cracker chip has to be in individual packs no reseal or baggie prevents stuff from geting chewy after it’s been open 2 hrs In My house except kettle cooked chips and Tostito. I’m 3.5 miles to the beach miles from the ocean and surrounded by large open canals and the inter coastal. There is so much involved in husbandry you could almost leave something out.
I do kinda know what I’m doing just been a decade and I jumped right back in.
I read that some other members noted some appetite and other changes while treating for the parasite depending on the dose and count of parasite. Hers was high. She came to me with an appetite and it quickly went. The cap Est he’s a good eater she will eat off your hand if she’s eating. The other guy I know he eats ( I count and saw twice ) hornworms don’t just vanish , just not as stimulated and visible eater. He’s a hunter. He’s just not where I want him but improving.
 
I know about the bin , but it’s a no no unless she needs it which will be soon given her coloring , I know I need to add to my gut load. Just what’s in the bin now. My online fan is just a fancy ac thermostat probe with humidity scensor and it’s sensitive. I use that ( have to move it around ) to check ambient temps and over all humidity. Yes , those 3 mistings I mist for a while. The. I let them drink then I mist some more. I mist a lot. I have kidney problems so if I’m sipping I’m also spraying. A dropper would not be hygienic. As they generally will begin touching their tongue to it infecting the entire container. and a lot of drainage to clean up. I did that rodeo a decade ago. Never again. A mister totally doable. Misting by hand and truly doing it right I got that no problem. In between when my ac is on (running) it can get to 83 in my house till it kicks on (78) then To 75 when someone thinks it’s hot then night it swings to 78. With that heat comes the humidity. And while it may say 30-40 in my house I assure you it’s a wet 30-40 % cause any cookie cracker chip has to be in individual packs no reseal or baggie prevents stuff from geting chewy after it’s been open 2 hrs In My house except kettle cooked chips and Tostito. I’m 3.5 miles to the beach miles from the ocean and surrounded by large open canals and the inter coastal. There is so much involved in husbandry you could almost leave something out.
I do kinda know what I’m doing just been a decade and I jumped right back in.
I read that some other members noted some appetite and other changes while treating for the parasite depending on the dose and count of parasite. Hers was high. She came to me with an appetite and it quickly went. The cap Est he’s a good eater she will eat off your hand if she’s eating. The other guy I know he eats ( I count and saw twice ) hornworms don’t just vanish , just not as stimulated and visible eater. He’s a hunter. He’s just not where I want him but improving.
I figured you are experienced with chams. You could very possibly be more so than I am. 😉 Once your guys and gal are cleared of the parasite, they should thrive under your care.
 
Went back to vet again this morning and we have gentamiacin eye drops for both eyes. Not the eye in the photo , the opposite eye has an area of loose skin that puffs up during waiting and soaking them she wiggles it around and try’s to clean it out herself . From the previous publications and other posts I’ve read recently and previously , this is a natural thing for them to do to dislodge or clean out the eye. Untill the eye gives and issue that leads to a decline in health they don’t want to invade her eye lid unless necessary so they gave me drops. The other eye that had the piece of shed that got in her eye is minimally irritated so that’s to be expected and told me to put the drops in both eyes 3 times a day for a week. If by the end of the parasites and the eye treatment if she doesn’t begin to improve we can take measure to do an invasive eye exams and a urate test and introduce another medicine or suggestion at that time. She’s healthy but to give her time. And lots of showers.
 
Went back to vet again this morning and we have gentamiacin eye drops for both eyes. Not the eye in the photo , the opposite eye has an area of loose skin that puffs up during waiting and soaking them she wiggles it around and try’s to clean it out herself . From the previous publications and other posts I’ve read recently and previously , this is a natural thing for them to do to dislodge or clean out the eye. Untill the eye gives and issue that leads to a decline in health they don’t want to invade her eye lid unless necessary so they gave me drops. The other eye that had the piece of shed that got in her eye is minimally irritated so that’s to be expected and told me to put the drops in both eyes 3 times a day for a week. If by the end of the parasites and the eye treatment if she doesn’t begin to improve we can take measure to do an invasive eye exams and a urate test and introduce another medicine or suggestion at that time. She’s healthy but to give her time. And lots of showers.
When you say showers, do you mean taking her in the shower? If so, do make sure the water is cool. Even lukewarm can be scalding to chams. Personally, I would just give extra long mistings to her instead to avoid that risk and added stress.
Hopefully the drops and your great care will work some magic and her eyes will fully recover. My panther came to me last October with a ‘bad’ eye and although it’s improved greatly and continues to do so, I’m not sure it will ever be ‘normal’.
BTW, I failed to mention that she is absolutely gorgeous! Your males are gorgeous too! 🥰
 
Your Cap est is gorgeous! One of my favorite locales... Your female has edema as well. I did not see that covered...

Can you take a pic of what supplements your using? If you have only had her 4 days this would be something from prior care. But I would like to double check your supplements if you like :)

For the coccidia... This is a tough one. The only thing that will actually kill the oocysts is 40 volume liquid peroxide (like for hair coloring/bleaching) Otherwise these can live for years in the cage. Anything porous in the cage is also an issue because the eggs can stick in it and you can not just clean them out. Also you can not spray the peroxide on anything porous so everything like that has to be tossed.. The cage made out of wood is an issue for thorough cleaning. This is my thread if you would like to read through it. I got a lot of fantastic feedback from breeders that had dealt with it. Ignore the sad ending... They do not all end that way. https://www.chameleonforums.com/threads/coccidia-help-and-cleaning-advice-please.170202/
 
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When you say showers, do you mean taking her in the shower? If so, do make sure the water is cool. Even lukewarm can be scalding to chams. Personally, I would just give extra long mistings to her instead to avoid that risk and added stress.
Hopefully the drops and your great care will work some magic and her eyes will fully recover. My panther came to me last October with a ‘bad’ eye and although it’s improved greatly and continues to do so, I’m not sure it will ever be ‘normal’.
BTW, I failed to mention that she is absolutely gorgeous! Your males are gorgeous too! 🥰
Thank you so much for the kind words . They (vet ) wants me to shower them for 30 minutes multiple times a day , to make sure they are geting enough water while being treated foe parasites in addition to regular misting. I Pre fill my medicine syringe and I take a shot glass and put some water in it then I add water to each syringe individually making sure they get all the meds then I refill it to 1/4 the way and give them additional water. Sanatizing in between each. I’ve rescued hatchlings in worse shape and brought them to thrive. I did find my old account on here and some old photos of my old babies ( I lost all my records on husbandry and my photos in a fire 2 years ago , brought on a whole new meaning to spring cleaning/ with the clothes on your back )
 
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