Ohh thanks !!!
Sorry , this isn´t my first language
Its a Veiled Chameleon,Female,4 mounths, im with her a week ago.
I deal with her every day.
I feed in the morning 09:00, 5-7 crickets and 8-12 waxworms. The waxworms stay in a feeder .
Supplement just Calcium + D3 (EXOTERRA) , and clean the feeder every day.
I am watering the plants and the cage, and yes I see him drinking water through the plants and the glass. But I'll buy a dripper plant .
The poop is almost black, not too soft ,but wet. I did not test for parasites, but bought in a trust store.
I have no history for being a new chameleon.
Its Glass cage (EXOTERRA) , 45-60-90.
Lighting , 1 Exoterra Reptile UVB 150 , 25W (desert UVB).
I turn on this lamp at 8:40 and turn off at 20:30.
The temperature is always between 22 and 30 degrees celcius
Humidity is always between 60% and 80%, just wetting the plants and terrarium.
I use analog hygrometer and analog thermometer (EXOTERRA).
Yes i use live plants , Asparagus,Nephrolepis,Alyssum,Begonia,Hibiscus,Vine branches.
The cage is one meter high from the ground, ventilated place, is in a room with little traffic.
Im Brazilian , but i live im Portugal - Lisboa.
I just read this post today while I was searching for information about your other thread.
I notice nobody gave you any answers to your husbandry information.
Female veileds can lay (infertile) eggs without having been mated...so it's important to have a laying bin in the cage at all times once she is sexually mature. You'll know when that happens because she will develop mustardy yellow splotches on her sides and blue dots. Not providing a proper place for her to dig can lead to egg binding and death.
Supplements...most of the feeder insects we use have a poor ratio of calcium to phos...so we dust the insects lightly at almost every feeding (just before feeding them to the chameleon) with a phos free calcium powder. To ensure they can use the calcium, we dust lightly with a phos free calcium/D3 powder and allow them to produce the rest of the D3 they need from their exposure to the UVB light we use on the cage. We also dust lightly twice a month with a vitamin powder that contains a beta carotene (prOformed) source of vitamin A. PrEformed sources of vitamin A and D3 from supplements can build up in the system and lead to health issues. If the chameleon needs more vitamin A it can be provided separately then in a prEformed source. The most often recommended UVB light is the Repti-Sun 5.0 long linear tube light.
I feed/gutload crickets, roaches, locusts, super worms with a variety of greens (dandelions, collards, endive, escarole, kale, etc) and veggies (carrots, squash, zucchini, sweet potatoes, sweet red peppers, etc.) and a small amount of fruit (berries, Apple, pear, melon, etc.).
I'm sorry I missed this thread when you first posted it.