my female chameleon cannot open they eyes(both)

mimilizard

New Member
Chameleon Info:
Your Chameleon - Veiled Chameleon, Female , 6 months
Handling - 2-3 times per days
Feeding - Giant worms, bird worms (gut load with vegetables)
Supplements - rep-cal every day
Watering - Spray two times on morning and dinner
Fecal Description - nope
History - have this problem around 2-3 days and it cannot eat anything

Cage Info: normal cage with net around one meter high width and length 50cm
Lighting - daily light at the morning 8-10
Temperature - dunno
Humidity - use spray
Plants - mok trees (dunno the name)
Placement - out side in the second floor
Location - Thailand

Current Problem - 2 days ago.My female chameleon have problem withe her eyes. They cannot open it both of them. i dunno what happen to it, now i din't give the food to her because i afraid about the stress & health.
This morning, the eye can open a little in both eyes.
This dinner, the eyes open bigger than morning but still little.

ps. i use the cotton soaked with the water to clean her eyes and use the eye drops(for human) to her like a primary care
 
Photoon2010-02-22at2225.jpg

eye
Photoon2010-02-22at22252.jpg

another eyes
 
What kind of UVB lightening do you use? Tube or spiral bulb?

Please post pictures of your bulbs and of the setup.

The old cliche that a pic is worth a million words may hold true here.

Hope your chameleon is feeling better soon.
 
I had that problem with mine for a while - it was a Vitamin A deficiancy, and yours looks
like mine did. Bring him to a vet ASAP, it can become a serious problem when it gets
advanced, and it is pretty advanced when both eyes are closed.

The UV is highly necessary, even if kept outside, they are probably in the shade where
they do not get much direct heat from the sun.With it being winter and all, that causes
many issues as well. UV fixtures aren't *that* expensive, even at the larger retail stores.

Cotton swabs are not good to clean it with, it can damage the eyes, and flushing only
does so much. It is best to keep them inside, and worrysome that you do not know
the temperature or humidity readings. You need to get a thermometer and humidity
gauge. Misting only ups the humidity for so long, I live in a very humid climate and still
have problems with it at times. An automatic mister works best.

If you feed gutloaded there is also a chance that they are getting too much vitamin A,
which also causes problems. Again, a vet visit is necessary. I live in the US and would
not be able to give you prices, but I brought mine to a top school in my state and he
was treated in full for $150.00 - which is a really good price. He was boarded there for
a week, fed and watered as well as given vitamins and shots. They drew blood and took
a fecal sample for testing. They sent us home with a follow-up shot to give him, a vitamin
A supplement called Sunshine Factor, as well as an Antibacterial rinse for his eyes, as well
as a regular one to flush it with. We were also given a liquid carnivore diet with vitamins to
either feed him, or load the live food with. It's been a few weeks and he is doing much better,
climbing around, opening his eyes and all, as well. Without the proper lighting they cannot
function properly, so I would suggest buying a UV and a heat lamp for baskint, and keeping
her indoors.
 
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It sounds like the best option is a trip to the vet, as in many cases. From what I know about cham health, many health problems are evident by changes in the eyes...even if it is not an eye problem directly.

In the short term something you can try to perk your cham up a little, while also flushing any debris that could he in the eyes is a shower.

When i put my cham in the shower i make it warm enough that if i were the one in there it would be comfortable, but obviously I do not make his showers nearly as hot as my own, use the temp in the cage as a good indicator for how warm to make the water temp. i place him on plant which is both in the stream of water and out, so he has options. I leave him in the shower anywhere from 10 to about 25 min, making sure the bathroom door is shut so as much steam and humidity stays in as possible.

Maybe that will help out your situation a bit, at least temporarily.
 
Chameleon Info:
Your Chameleon - Veiled Chameleon, Female , 6 months
Handling - 2-3 times per days
Feeding - Giant worms, bird worms (gut load with vegetables)
Supplements - rep-cal every day
Watering - Spray two times on morning and dinner
Fecal Description - nope
History - have this problem around 2-3 days and it cannot eat anything

Cage Info: normal cage with net around one meter high width and length 50cm
Lighting - daily light at the morning 8-10
Temperature - dunno
Humidity - use spray
Plants - mok trees (dunno the name)
Placement - out side in the second floor
Location - Thailand

Current Problem - 2 days ago.My female chameleon have problem withe her eyes. They cannot open it both of them. i dunno what happen to it, now i din't give the food to her because i afraid about the stress & health.
This morning, the eye can open a little in both eyes.
This dinner, the eyes open bigger than morning but still little.

ps. i use the cotton soaked with the water to clean her eyes and use the eye drops(for human) to her like a primary care

Giant worms and birdworms? Are you catching these in the wild? She could be loaded with parasites..
 
You said..."Feeding - Giant worms, bird worms (gut load with vegetables)"...can you post pictures of these....or give a scientific name for them. I don't know what either is.

You said you use "rep-cal every day"..the calcium (or the calcium with D3)?

You said..."Temperature - dunno"...what's the temperature outside since that's where you keep her?

You said you..." mok trees (dunno the name)"...do you know if its non-toxic though?

Has she been spending time roaming around the cage? Has she been sitting low in the cage? Does she have somewhere in the cage where she could dig if she needed to lay eggs?
 
You said..."Feeding - Giant worms, bird worms (gut load with vegetables)"...can you post pictures of these....or give a scientific name for them. I don't know what either is.
- this i dunno the scientific name sorry

You said you use "rep-cal every day"..the calcium (or the calcium with D3)?

- calcium with D3

You said..."Temperature - dunno"...what's the temperature outside since that's where you keep her?

- just guest is around 30-40 Celsius

You said you..." mok trees (dunno the name)"...do you know if its non-toxic though?

- this tree non- toxic

Has she been spending time roaming around the cage? Has she been sitting low in the cage? Does she have somewhere in the cage where she could dig if she needed to lay eggs?

- is not lay egg because they dont mating yet
 
Comments.....

If she is getting her UVA/UVB from natural sunshine outside you should not be giving her calcium with D3. She makes her own D3 from the natural sunshine. If you are truly giving her D3 everyday you are really overdosing her on it.

She needs a more varied insect diet as well. Are bird worms the type of worms found in the ground that are also used in fishing? Post a picture of the feeders you are using. I suspect that she is not getting all the nutrition she needs from your feeders.

Female chams lay eggs (infertile) whether they breed or not. You need to make provisions for that process.

She does have a serious eye issue. There are signs of bruising around the turret. I'm not sure how you are treating her, but you may be bruising the eye turret tissue when you are doing it. I think she needs vet care at this point. The eyes do not look good. Are there any fellow cham keepers in your area you could talk to about feeder insect sources, etc?
 
Thank for advice now she can open they eyes with herself, but still like the day dream ( eyes close more often than eyes open)

oh one thing she always threaten how to tame it



and the name of the giant worm (thai called) is super worm for bird worm(that called) is meal worm
 
Mimi, this didn't translate well for us:

oh one thing she always threaten how to tame it

I think you are saying that when you try to handle her she reacts badly.

Is that right?

Was she friendly before and now is not?

That would suggest she is not happy.

Did you provide her a "laying bin"? If not, you should get one in now. When they need to lay is not the best time to introduce something new to the cage. That probably has nothing to do with the current problem, but it's good advice.
 
Mimi, this didn't translate well for us:



I think you are saying that when you try to handle her she reacts badly.

Is that right?

Was she friendly before and now is not?

That would suggest she is not happy.

Did you provide her a "laying bin"? If not, you should get one in now. When they need to lay is not the best time to introduce something new to the cage. That probably has nothing to do with the current problem, but it's good advice.


yep that right !!

ask for one thing what the "laying bin" for?

that for she to lay the egg (infertile) right (if not plz tell me)

and what it inside of the laying bin
 
Yes, the laying bin is for infertile eggs. Make sure it has 12 inches of substrate (30 cm) and it is big enough for her plus about 3 inches (7 cm) on all sides of her including above. It should be filled with moist play sand, moist organic fertilizer free soil, or a mix of the two. If she starts to dig, don't let her see you or she may abandon the hole and become eggbound (can't lay the eggs) and may die without vet help.

Chameleons are not usually the friendliest of animals and should not be handled too often. If she is an aggressive animal I would suggest using a clean stick to gently put under her and take her out.
 
Whether she's ready to lay eggs or not, I think it best to have a bin in place.

Waiting until you realize she needs to lay eggs just adds the stress of "there's a new thing in my cage!" to her already stressful life.
 
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