My chameleon wont drink water

Chase77films

New Member
So I just bought a veiled chameleon 4 days ago and I must it 2 times a day and it has a dripper plant in the cage but I have never seen it drink. It is normal colored and acts normal. Is something wrong or am I just missing him drink.
 

AnamCara

Chameleon Enthusiast
So I just bought a veiled chameleon 4 days ago and I must it 2 times a day and it has a dripper plant in the cage but I have never seen it drink. It is normal colored and acts normal. Is something wrong or am I just missing him drink.
Have you see his poop / urate? It is possible he drinks when you arnt there. Get the humidity up as high as you can at night after all the lights and heat are off. Like 80-100% humidity.

Is this your first chameleon?
 

Chase77films

New Member
Have you see his poop / urate? It is possible he drinks when you arnt there. Get the humidity up as high as you can at night after all the lights and heat are off. Like 80-100% humidity.

Is this your first chameleon?
I have not seen him poop or urinate and it is my first chameleon
 

AnamCara

Chameleon Enthusiast
I would suggest filling out this form -- especially if it is your first one. This will let us fine-tune some aspects of your husbandry -- could also inform of anything amiss.

To further what I was getting at in my last post -- the reason you want the humidity as high as possible at night is that this is a very natural way to hydrate. The chameleons can breathe in water vapors and that is hydrating to them. So -- if they are not drinking and you get the humidity up really high, they likely will still have white urates.

The urate should be white/pearly. It could be a little yellowish if he has gone awhile between defecations.

Here is the form:

Chameleon Info:
  • Your Chameleon - The species, sex, and age of your chameleon. How long has it been in your care?
  • Handling - How often do you handle your chameleon?
  • Feeding - What are you feeding your cham? What amount? What is the schedule? How are you gut-loading your feeders?
  • Supplements - What brand and type of calcium and vitamin products are you dusting your feeders with and what is the schedule?
  • Watering - What kind of watering technique do you use? How often and how long to you mist? Do you see your chameleon drinking?
  • Fecal Description - Briefly note colors and consistency from recent droppings. Has this chameleon ever been tested for parasites?
  • History - Any previous information about your cham that might be useful to others when trying to help you.

Cage Info:
  • Cage Type - Describe your cage (Glass, Screen, Combo?) What are the dimensions?
  • Lighting - What brand, model, and types of lighting are you using? What is your daily lighting schedule?
  • Temperature - What temp range have you created (cage floor to basking spot)? Lowest overnight temp? How do you measure these temps?
  • Humidity - What are your humidity levels? How are you creating and maintaining these levels? What do you use to measure humidity?
  • Plants - Are you using live plants? If so, what kind?
  • Placement - Where is your cage located? Is it near any fans, air vents, or high traffic areas? At what height is the top of the cage relative to your room floor?
  • Location - Where are you geographically located?

Current Problem - The current problem you are concerned about.

--------------

Please Note:
  1. The more details you provide the better and more accurate help you will receive.
  2. Photos can be very helpful.
 

Chase77films

New Member
I would suggest filling out this form -- especially if it is your first one. This will let us fine-tune some aspects of your husbandry -- could also inform of anything amiss.

To further what I was getting at in my last post -- the reason you want the humidity as high as possible at night is that this is a very natural way to hydrate. The chameleons can breathe in water vapors and that is hydrating to them. So -- if they are not drinking and you get the humidity up really high, they likely will still have white urates.

The urate should be white/pearly. It could be a little yellowish if he has gone awhile between defecations.

Here is the form:

Chameleon Info:
  • Your Chameleon - The species, sex, and age of your chameleon. How long has it been in your care?
  • Handling - How often do you handle your chameleon?
  • Feeding - What are you feeding your cham? What amount? What is the schedule? How are you gut-loading your feeders?
  • Supplements - What brand and type of calcium and vitamin products are you dusting your feeders with and what is the schedule?
  • Watering - What kind of watering technique do you use? How often and how long to you mist? Do you see your chameleon drinking?
  • Fecal Description - Briefly note colors and consistency from recent droppings. Has this chameleon ever been tested for parasites?
  • History - Any previous information about your cham that might be useful to others when trying to help you.

Cage Info:
  • Cage Type - Describe your cage (Glass, Screen, Combo?) What are the dimensions?
  • Lighting - What brand, model, and types of lighting are you using? What is your daily lighting schedule?
  • Temperature - What temp range have you created (cage floor to basking spot)? Lowest overnight temp? How do you measure these temps?
  • Humidity - What are your humidity levels? How are you creating and maintaining these levels? What do you use to measure humidity?
  • Plants - Are you using live plants? If so, what kind?
  • Placement - Where is your cage located? Is it near any fans, air vents, or high traffic areas? At what height is the top of the cage relative to your room floor?
  • Location - Where are you geographically located?

Current Problem - The current problem you are concerned about.

--------------

Please Note:
  1. The more details you provide the better and more accurate help you will receive.
  2. Photos can be very helpful.
Chameleon Info:
Your Chameleon - Veiled, male,age: not sure but pretty young. 4 days
Handling - once or twice a day
Feeding - crickets,mealworms,kale. 5 crickets, 2 mealworms and a some kale. Crickets at 11 mealworms at 2 kale throughout. Flucker's orange cube
Supplements -zoomed reptivite and repticalcium and I use it Monday Wednesday Friday Sunday
Watering - Misting and dripper plant. 2 times a day for 2 minutes. No
Fecal Description - Has not pooped. No
History - sits on perch all day and only moves for food

Cage Info:
Cage Type - Screen. 30 inches high, that is all I know
Lighting - Zoomed bulbs from the starter kit. Uvb 30 minutes before the heat lamp at 9 to 9. Then heat lamp 30 minutes after from 930 to 930.
Temperature - 77. Not sure. Zoomed thermometer
Humidity - not sure
Plants - Yes, draconian
Placement - living room. Fan close. 3 feet.
Location - South carolina coast

Current Problem Chameleon wont drink water
 

AnamCara

Chameleon Enthusiast
See Feedback in RED:


Chameleon Info:
Your Chameleon - Veiled, male,age: not sure but pretty young. 4 days
Handling - once or twice a day
Feeding - crickets,mealworms,kale. 5 crickets, 2 mealworms and a some kale. Crickets at 11 mealworms at 2 kale throughout. Flucker's orange cube Be mindful of too many mealworms as they are low in nutrition. All food should be offered before noon so he has time to bask and digest. Crickets, Roaches, SIlk worms, Black Soldier Fly Larvae, Hornworms -- variety in feeders is the best. I would toss the flukers orange cubes. They are no good -- gut load the bugs with commercial gut load and some fresh veg -- I'll post a care sheet below.
Supplements -zoomed reptivite and repticalcium and I use it Monday Wednesday Friday Sunday Traditional supplement schedule is as follows: Phosphorous Free Calcium Powder at all feedings EXCEPT every other week when you supplement one feeding with calcium powder d3 and one feeding with multi vitamin. The multivitamin and D3 Should alternate -- so the 1st and 3rd Saturday each month is Calcium with D3, and the 2nd and 4th Saturday each month is a multi vitamin powder. OR you could use Repashy Calcium Plus LoD lightly at every feeding. I do not powder "snacks" like hornworms or the very occasional butterworms.
Watering - Misting and dripper plant. 2 times a day for 2 minutes. @Beman @JoXie411 could you please weigh in on a veiled misting schedule? He will need at the least a longer sessions -- 2 minutes is pretty short if it is the only misting you are doing. I personally do a longer mists when the lights are off and the cage is cool.
Fecal Description - Has not pooped. No
History - sits on perch all day and only moves for food

Cage Info:
Cage Type - Screen. 30 inches high, that is all I know <--- we need more info. Minimum size should be 2 feet by 2 feet by 4 feet tall.
Lighting - Zoomed bulbs from the starter kit. Uvb 30 minutes before the heat lamp at 9 to 9. Then heat lamp 30 minutes after from 930 to 930. The Kit provides insufficent lighting. You want a t5ho linear fixture with a 6% UVB Bulb in it, raised a little off the enclosure. Solarmeters can measure the UV output.
Temperature - 77. Not sure. Zoomed thermometer This is important information to know. I suggest a digital thermometer for your basking spot and a temp gun to check surface temps through the enclosure. You'll also want a digital thermometer inside the enclosure for ambient temps.
Humidity - not sure

Plants - Yes, draconian O -- you'll want more plants :) Pothos are great, Dracenea are good, so are orchids, bromeliads, braided ficus, wandering jew -- there are many chameleon safe plants.
Placement - living room. Fan close. 3 feet. Most people suggest having the enclosure in a low traffic area, and away from fans and vents and not too close to a window -- direct light through a window can cook a chameleon.
Location - South carolina coast

Current Problem Chameleon wont drink water

Could you please post a photo of your entire setup and your chameleon.
 

Chase77films

New Member
See Feedback in RED:


Chameleon Info:
Your Chameleon - Veiled, male,age: not sure but pretty young. 4 days
Handling - once or twice a day
Feeding - crickets,mealworms,kale. 5 crickets, 2 mealworms and a some kale. Crickets at 11 mealworms at 2 kale throughout. Flucker's orange cube Be mindful of too many mealworms as they are low in nutrition. All food should be offered before noon so he has time to bask and digest. Crickets, Roaches, SIlk worms, Black Soldier Fly Larvae, Hornworms -- variety in feeders is the best. I would toss the flukers orange cubes. They are no good -- gut load the bugs with commercial gut load and some fresh veg -- I'll post a care sheet below.
Supplements -zoomed reptivite and repticalcium and I use it Monday Wednesday Friday Sunday Traditional supplement schedule is as follows: Phosphorous Free Calcium Powder at all feedings EXCEPT every other week when you supplement one feeding with calcium powder d3 and one feeding with multi vitamin. The multivitamin and D3 Should alternate -- so the 1st and 3rd Saturday each month is Calcium with D3, and the 2nd and 4th Saturday each month is a multi vitamin powder. OR you could use Repashy Calcium Plus LoD lightly at every feeding. I do not powder "snacks" like hornworms or the very occasional butterworms.
Watering - Misting and dripper plant. 2 times a day for 2 minutes. @Beman @JoXie411 could you please weigh in on a veiled misting schedule? He will need at the least a longer sessions -- 2 minutes is pretty short if it is the only misting you are doing. I personally do a longer mists when the lights are off and the cage is cool.
Fecal Description - Has not pooped. No
History - sits on perch all day and only moves for food

Cage Info:
Cage Type - Screen. 30 inches high, that is all I know <--- we need more info. Minimum size should be 2 feet by 2 feet by 4 feet tall.
Lighting - Zoomed bulbs from the starter kit. Uvb 30 minutes before the heat lamp at 9 to 9. Then heat lamp 30 minutes after from 930 to 930. The Kit provides insufficent lighting. You want a t5ho linear fixture with a 6% UVB Bulb in it, raised a little off the enclosure. Solarmeters can measure the UV output.
Temperature - 77. Not sure. Zoomed thermometer This is important information to know. I suggest a digital thermometer for your basking spot and a temp gun to check surface temps through the enclosure. You'll also want a digital thermometer inside the enclosure for ambient temps.
Humidity - not sure

Plants - Yes, draconian O -- you'll want more plants :) Pothos are great, Dracenea are good, so are orchids, bromeliads, braided ficus, wandering jew -- there are many chameleon safe plants.
Placement - living room. Fan close. 3 feet. Most people suggest having the enclosure in a low traffic area, and away from fans and vents and not too close to a window -- direct light through a window can cook a chameleon.
Location - South carolina coast

Current Problem Chameleon wont drink water

Could you please post a photo of your entire setup and your chameleon.
 

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AnamCara

Chameleon Enthusiast

Yes, you will need a larger cage and much more foliage. The foliage will allow him to hide and make him feel safe. I have attached a photo of my enclosure -- it is not a standard by any means, but may help you get an idea.

You, likely, have not seen him drink because he is not comfortable drinking so exposed.

20190821_175003.jpg
20191219_164827.jpg
 

Beman

Chameleon Enthusiast
I run a 2 minute session in the morning after 1 set of T5 lights have come on 30 minutes prior to the basking light kicking on. And I run a 4 minute session at the end of the day 1 hour after basking light has kicked off along with 1 set of T5 lights. I do not mist when basking light is on or when I have both sets of T5's running because it pulls my heat up to high. This is to keep the risk of RI down. I do provide a constant water source with a dripper from 10am-3pm as well. Along with Fogging at night from 1am-5am when the cage temps are down to 62 degrees.
 

Bush baby

Avid Member
I think running the mister is even more important that spraying the enclosure. For years i would spray my Chams cage; sometimes he would drink but most of the time he would simply run from the spray. His urates, at best, would be be 50% white and 50% orange. Then I bought a Betazooer Reptile Humidifier with hose, and have it on a timer to come on for 30 minutes before the lights come on in the morning. The hose is placed right above his favorite sleeping area. Now, his urates are as white as snow all the time...and I don't even spray at all! The Betazooer creates little droplets for him to drink first thing when he wakes up in the AM (as they do in the wild)

Bottomline, chams get most of their moisture via the air they breath.
 
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