Mercury Vapor Lighting?

[Ethen44]

Alright, so I went to my local pet shop the other day to buy my 5.0 reptisun replacement bulbs. However, I ended up talking with the owner, a well versed chameleon owner, and he told me I was wasting my time with the linear bulbs. Rather, he suggested, that I get some Mercury bulbs? He said that they have far more efficient UVB and UVA output, as well as creates the temperature for basking. I've never heard of this, what are your thoughts???

FWIW, I have 1.2 F. Paradalis

THANKS

 

[Jimturner]

I have used mercury vapour lamps for years. However, I have found the Zoo-Med bulbs to be EXTREMELY fragile when hot, the slightest bump will blow the filament. Another consideration would be the placement of your fixture... these bulbs output a lot of heat, although the chance of burns is greatly reduced by arranging the light at a 45 degree angle to create a more natural and efficient "lateral basking" type of set up where the light/heat is coming in at an angle, hitting your pet on it's side rather than directly down from the "high noon" position. Cheers!

 

[Davonat]

From what I have heard.... The trick is getting the bulb the correct distance.. so the basking "temp" is correct & not giving your lizard too much UVB. A solar Meter6.2 is almost manditory for doing this. You want to shoot for mid - high 30's on the meter

 

[clarkrw3]

Well yes and no. He is right they put out way more UVA and UVB and generate heat...they generate a lot of heat. So to get the right UVB and heat is a balancing act and depending on ambient temps can be hard. My chams tend to bask early in the morning to warm up from my night time temp drop and then hang out under the UVB bulb most of the day except when they have just ate. I have also noticed that when the chams have been outside they spend more time lower in the cage exploring and not sitting under the UVB bulb probably because they have already had enough. Also if you have a lot of live plants in the cage just one bulb will not light effectively so you need other 6500k lights as well. MVB's are expensive and you still need to replace them like tubes (maybe not quite as often). I will say I have one on my Tortoise because they like a 105 deg basking, and that is at 12"....how far way would the bulb need to be for a panther? I bask my panthers at 80-85. And if using on a partially glass enclosure I think you are just asking for a fried cham.

 

[Venutus1]

the new year has MUCH in store for Herp UV lighting...

Alright, so I went to my local pet shop the other day to buy my 5.0 reptisun replacement bulbs. However, I ended up talking with the owner, a well versed chameleon owner, and he told me I was wasting my time with the linear bulbs. Rather, he suggested, that I get some Mercury bulbs? He said that they have far more efficient UVB and UVA output, as well as creates the temperature for basking. I've never heard of this, what are your thoughts???

FWIW, I have 1.2 F. Paradalis

THANKS

It is a shame there is no real good Mercury Vapor Bulbs right now.
The new Westrons aren't as good as the old ones... and the Japanese Zoo Meds are OK... with the 160 watt being a better bulb than the 100 watt.

Well... that will not matter soon.


The new UV emitting 93+ CRI METAL HALIDES are on the Horizon from Europe....
Once those hit the US Market...well .....
They are being tested as we speak for the world market.
And also have been available in Germany for the past few years.


Now, if anyone is telling someone that no linear tubes compare with Merc. Vapor, they are just a bit behind the times.

The 1960's are calling, they want their mercury vapor bulbs back.
I was using the GE Time-A-Tan merc vapors in the 70's....
The technology was developed for them ages ago.
People probably were using them on their pet dinosaurs. LOL.
The development and perfection of those has been so "hit & miss".


The new advances have got me so jazzed up. I could just bust.
They are finally coming out with real stuff for the hobby & it will be hitting the US market this year.

OK,
back to the statement someone told you that there is no linear tube that can compare to a merc vapor...

They have never had a Solarmeter in hand and tested an Arcadia D3+ T5 high output flo. bulb.
period.
The Arcadia D3+ T5 High Out-puts have awesome UV Kick.
I just tested 2 x 24w in a reflective T-5 HO fixture and it gave a reading of 220+ Uw/cm2 on a Solarmeter 6.2 @ 12".
I had to pull one out and replace with a 6.5k Full Spectrum (no UV) T5 Bulb.
Because 2 would have been too much for that particular aplication.

BTW:
They also have an excellent (higher than 15:1) ratio when correlating to a Solarmeter 6.5.
*ehem* unlike some Merc vapor bulbs.

NOTE:
The Arcadia T5 D3+ (plus) High out-put T5's should be used with a Solarmeter ... especially if being used with "Forest" herps like Chams.
Just sayin'.


Cheers and Happy New Year.
Todd
www.lightyourreptiles.com

 

[SonTigerPantherCham]

Who would have thought that when you talk like that I get goose bumps
So when are my arcadias gettin' to me ....dear?
Anne

 

[Venutus1]

Reptile lighting is moving from the Dark Ages- FAST

Who would have thought that when you talk like that I get goose bumps
So when are my arcadias gettin' to me ....dear?
Anne

LOL.

Please begin to monitor your pulse now my friend...

I have over one hundred T-5 HO fixtures somewhere between here and China.
Made to order to be perfect for the HO t-5 Arcadia bulbs...
AND they DON'T COST an ARM & A LEG.
LOOK!
Anne, The picture from the factory has one with your name on it.

And we must not forget the LEDs.
No UV there... but good for extra 6.5k light to GROW those difficult plants like hybiscus indoor.
Using way less electricity and no unwanted heat.

Yes, these are very exciting times.

Things are happening FAST now with Herp lighting that will finally bring it out of the dredded dark ages once and for all!

Cheers.
Todd

PS. Look out for Reptiles magazine's special LIGHTING ISSUE coming out this Spring.

sorry for a bit of self promotion, but it is just pretty dang exciting.

 

[Venutus1]

I have used mercury vapour lamps for years. However, I have found the Zoo-Med bulbs to be EXTREMELY fragile when hot, the slightest bump will blow the filament. Another consideration would be the placement of your fixture... these bulbs output a lot of heat, although the chance of burns is greatly reduced by arranging the light at a 45 degree angle to create a more natural and efficient "lateral basking" type of set up where the light/heat is coming in at an angle, hitting your pet on it's side rather than directly down from the "high noon" position. Cheers!

So true Jim!

 

[Venutus1]

From what I have heard.... The trick is getting the bulb the correct distance.. so the basking "temp" is correct & not giving your lizard too much much UVB. A solar Meter6.2 is almost manditory for doing this. You want to shoot for mid - high 30's on the meter

Good point!

 

[Ethen44]

Alright, so until these new super lights come to the US market I'm going to have to make due with what I have before me. The choice being 5.0 reptisun linear bulbs that I replace every 6 mo's, or a merc vap bulb for each enclosure at a 45 degree angle, carefully distanced so as to not "fry" my chams. I'm leaning towards the Mercury lamps because I'm simply not getting enough UVB/UVA output with my 5.0 reptisun's. Sooooooooo what are some good brands that are trusted?

 

[SonTigerPantherCham]

Im all a twitter my friend, all a twitter in anticipation
My LED is an amazing addition to my lights, the difference in lighting is huge!
Just wait til I post pics of arcadias, LED's, basking

 

[Davonat]

Alright, so until these new super lights come to the US market I'm going to have to make due with what I have before me. The choice being 5.0 reptisun linear bulbs that I replace every 6 mo's, or a merc vap bulb for each enclosure at a 45 degree angle, carefully distanced so as to not "fry" my chams. I'm leaning towards the Mercury lamps because I'm simply not getting enough UVB/UVA output with my 5.0 reptisun's. Sooooooooo what are some good brands that are trusted?

How do you know your not getting enough UVA-UVB from the Reptisun? Do you have a meter?..... You should get the correct amount from these bulbs as long as they are fresh. I just bought a meter and had to raise my UVB basking branch 2"s to hit the mid 30's. remember too... If you plan on useing the new (not here yet) bulbs get a fixture that will work with them. The Vapor bulbs are expensive too & need replaceing just like the others, although probably not as often.

 

[Whatcamo]

It is a shame there is no real good Mercury Vapor Bulbs right now.
The new Westrons aren't as good as the old ones... and the Japanese Zoo Meds are OK... with the 160 watt being a better bulb than the 100 watt.

Well... that will not matter soon.


The new UV emitting 93+ CRI METAL HALIDES are on the Horizon from Europe....
Once those hit the US Market...well .....
They are being tested as we speak for the world market.
And also have been available in Germany for the past few years.


Now, if anyone is telling someone that no linear tubes compare with Merc. Vapor, they are just a bit behind the times.

The 1960's are calling, they want their mercury vapor bulbs back.
I was using the GE Time-A-Tan merc vapors in the 70's....
The technology was developed for them ages ago.
People probably were using them on their pet dinosaurs. LOL.
The development and perfection of those has been so "hit & miss".


The new advances have got me so jazzed up. I could just bust.
They are finally coming out with real stuff for the hobby & it will be hitting the US market this year.

OK,
back to the statement someone told you that there is no linear tube that can compare to a merc vapor...

They have never had a Solarmeter in hand and tested an Arcadia D3+ T5 high output flo. bulb.
period.
The Arcadia D3+ T5 High Out-puts have awesome UV Kick.
I just tested 2 x 24w in a reflective T-5 HO fixture and it gave a reading of 220+ Uw/cm2 on a Solarmeter 6.2 @ 12".
I had to pull one out and replace with a 6.5k Full Spectrum (no UV) T5 Bulb.
Because 2 would have been too much for that particular aplication.

BTW:
They also have an excellent (higher than 15:1) ratio when correlating to a Solarmeter 6.5.
*ehem* unlike some Merc vapor bulbs.

NOTE:
The Arcadia T5 D3+ (plus) High out-put T5's should be used with a Solarmeter ... especially if being used with "Forest" herps like Chams.
Just sayin'.


Cheers and Happy New Year.
Todd
www.lightyourreptiles.com

Please do tell me more about the halides! What wattages will there's be etc are they mogal, double ended etc. as I am about to start selling off some old aquarium equipment and I don't want to sell of something that can be used towards my Cham you can on me details if you wish or which ever!

 

[Ethen44]

How do you know your not getting enough UVA-UVB from the Reptisun? Do you have a meter?..... You should get the correct amount from these bulbs as long as they are fresh. I just bought a meter and had to raise my UVB basking branch 2"s to hit the mid 30's. remember too... If you plan on useing the new (not here yet) bulbs get a fixture that will work with them. The Vapor bulbs are expensive too & need replaceing just like the others, although probably not as often.

I don't have a meter to measure the UVB/UVA output of my lights. However, I was told that the linear bulbs don't produce enough UVB/UVA to penetrate my wire mesh cage and still be adequate. Anyways, I just purchased my new sets of linear bulbs, so I should be set for at least a few months. Although I am strongly considering ulterior lighting for my lil chamy's. Specifically a Vapor Bulb.

 

[Venutus1]

Please do tell me more about the halides! What wattages will there's be etc are they mogal, double ended etc. as I am about to start selling off some old aquarium equipment and I don't want to sell of something that can be used towards my Cham you can on me details if you wish or which ever!

I can't say much.

Frankly... I can't breach any particlar manufacturer's confidence.

With actual product testing going on as we speak.

Lucky Reptile Germany has had some great success with the product for the German and European 220v market. (you can google it)
Props where props are due.



get ready.
word.

Sincerely,
Todd

 

[Venutus1]

I don't have a meter to measure the UVB/UVA output of my lights. However, I was told that the linear bulbs don't produce enough UVB/UVA to penetrate my wire mesh cage and still be adequate. Anyways, I just purchased my new sets of linear bulbs, so I should be set for at least a few months. Although I am strongly considering ulterior lighting for my lil chamy's. Specifically a Vapor Bulb.

Hi Ethen,

Well....Since I am dumping cat's out of the bag left and right,

Why stop now? LOL.

LightYourReptiles.com will be offering Solarmeter rentals by the week starting next month.

I just have a few details to work out about money and security deposit issues.

We are looking at aprox. $14-16.00 week...
BUT the cost of trackable Prio Mail Shipping "to & fro" will add 11.00 - 12.00 to that for a weeks rental.
(Time to call your local herp friends to get together to split the cost. hint hint.)

'Bout time ... wouldn't everyone say?


AS far as MV bulbs go.
This is my personal opinion:

The Zoo Med are what we have to work with right now in the US & Canada and are pretty good.

The Arcadia D3 Basking are Very good.
BUT they only come in 220v right now.

Unless you are up to getting a 110v to 220v converter ($$) to act as a balast...as some Canadian Beardie folks do.... and sourcing and using one of the UK Arcadia 220v D3 MV...
best stick with a tried and true 110v MV.

Side note-
some of the MV 100 watts I have tested (which mirrors Frances's Testing) is that they do vary ALLOT in UV output.
Some 100 watt practically = the output (in certain spots) of UV of the 160w.
So keep that in mind when positioning them. (!!!!)

YES...exciting stuff.

Cheers!
Todd
www.lightyourreptiles.com

 

[chameleongirl2]

Well yes and no. He is right they put out way more UVA and UVB and generate heat...they generate a lot of heat. So to get the right UVB and heat is a balancing act and depending on ambient temps can be hard. My chams tend to bask early in the morning to warm up from my night time temp drop and then hang out under the UVB bulb most of the day except when they have just ate. I have also noticed that when the chams have been outside they spend more time lower in the cage exploring and not sitting under the UVB bulb probably because they have already had enough. Also if you have a lot of live plants in the cage just one bulb will not light effectively so you need other 6500k lights as well. MVB's are expensive and you still need to replace them like tubes (maybe not quite as often). I will say I have one on my Tortoise because they like a 105 deg basking, and that is at 12"....how far way would the bulb need to be for a panther? I bask my panthers at 80-85. And if using on a partially glass enclosure I think you are just asking for a fried cham.

I agree, wow the things we people do, just for a basking light, but in the end, its always worthi it <3

 

[ktravelet]

whats the wattage on the Arcadia D3+? Call me a tree hugger or what ever you want, but I prefer to go the most efficient way possible.

Reptisun 5.0 36" 30w
Incedesant 50w
3 CFLs 3 X 23w

Total of 149w! I could lower that by around ~50w if I use the LED bulbs too!
It would be hard to beat 100w for all of my lighting.

 

[Venutus1]

whats the wattage on the Arcadia D3+? Call me a tree hugger or what ever you want, but I prefer to go the most efficient way possible.

Reptisun 5.0 36" 30w
Incedesant 50w
3 CFLs 3 X 23w

Total of 149w! I could lower that by around ~50w if I use the LED bulbs too!
It would be hard to beat 100w for all of my lighting.

Hi Ktravelet,

The Arcadia D3's =Zoo med in wattage for the regular flo. bulbs.
The T-5 use more... but you get more... since they are High Out Put Fluorescents.
Take a moment to visit the Arcadia website.
They have been in business since the 60's producing Reptile, Bird and Aquarium products of all kinds...
but mostly focusing on lighting.
https://www.arcadia-uk.info/product.php?mid=12&lan=en&sub=&id=4&lan=en

The Flo. Arcadia bulbs that are regular out-put are = to the electricity of the Zoo Meds.

The Arcadia T-5's pack more punch and are High Output - HO.

For Comparison, the Jungle Dawn LED 13 watt = about the same amount of use-able light as a 26w CFL... so using LED cuts the electricity in half.
YES-They do produce less lumen overall, BUT all the LEDs point DOWN.

One neat thing about LED spots - they punch out the light but project no heat.
For Comparison, you couldn't put a 100w spot 3 or 4 inches over plants. It would scorch them.
BUT an 18w - 24w LED - no sweat. That's why I think they are good to boost lumen levels to grow plants.

I have a few folks around testing LEDs on planted screen Cham. enclosures and we shall see how they do.
I am sure in the next month or so the topic of LEDs will come up because the folks that are using them will be posting their feedback and observations.
Good and bad. (if there as any bad... I hope not!)
I know how they do in the Dart frog vivarium world. They are a big plus.
My hope is that they will be as big an asset to Cham set-ups with live plants like Hybiscus and Ficus.

Cheers!
Todd

 

[ktravelet]

I'm sorry I meant what is the output of the HO?

The LEDs are very curious to me. I would hope to pick some up in the near future. Do they really help with plant growth that much more then a standard soft white CFL?