Long time stalker, first time poster 😂

CJ-

Member
IMG_7707.jpeg
Hey yall! I feel like I know all of you chameleon smarties already because I have already pulled so much helpful info and graphics off of here (I have the food and plants guides saved on my phone and everything! 😂).

Here’s the tl;dr version of my question: I am so confused about lay bins and what I should put in Andarna’s enclosure and looking for advice.

Here’s the detailed version:

The Cham: juvenile female veiled (I’m 99.9% confident in gender because she doesn’t have any nubbins on the back of her feet 😄). Currently eats small crickets, small Dubia roaches and maybe a mealworm here or there, but she doesn’t seem to be a huge fan of them. I also ordered some small hornworms, but TBD if they’ll still be too big for her. Use calcium w/o D3 but have a D3 supp to use twice a month. I’ve had her for about 3 weeks. I’ve been handling her maybe 1-2 x per week but I kind of let her be the judge and see if she’ll come to me. Sometimes I’ll just give her a helping hand (literally) if she seems to not know where to put a foot and gets stuck lol. She had her first shed (with me at least) last week!

I have zero idea how old she is- attaching pics in case you all have any guesses/ tips on how long I’ve got til egg laying time.

Husbandry: I pulled a whole bunch of husbandry info from here already- I have this set up: https://a.co/d/1Dh2OTs
I also added live plants, additional vines, changed the lights a bit- for the uvb I have a T5HO lamp that lays across the top. The double dome you see in the picture only has the heat bulb in it. I live in AZ, where our slogan is literally “it’s a dry heat” (lol), so humidity has been a struggle, but I use a dripper, a mini humidifier (2x/day) and hand mist 2-3 times per day and have been able to keep humidity between 30-50% and temps around 75-78 during the day, lowest 64 at night.

I’ve seen things about using half gallon buckets and stuff for the egg laying but no way that’s fitting in the enclosure? She also seems way too tiny for that. Any advice would be greatly appreciated!!!!

IMG_7698.jpeg
IMG_7709.jpeg
 

Attachments

  • IMG_7698.jpeg
    IMG_7698.jpeg
    170.8 KB · Views: 12
  • IMG_7699.jpeg
    IMG_7699.jpeg
    164.1 KB · Views: 13
  • IMG_7703.jpeg
    IMG_7703.jpeg
    288.7 KB · Views: 16
  • IMG_7702.jpeg
    IMG_7702.jpeg
    298 KB · Views: 13
  • IMG_7701.jpeg
    IMG_7701.jpeg
    320.8 KB · Views: 14
  • IMG_7700.jpeg
    IMG_7700.jpeg
    230.7 KB · Views: 13
Also going to add- I just read some feedback on other posts about the substrate at the bottom (I have moss and soil) but sounds like going bare bottom is going to be the better option!
 
She’s such a cutie! She looks to be about the size that our girl was when she was about 5 months old, though I’m certainly not an expert. What a sweet girl 😀
 
  • Like
Reactions: CJ-
Hi there welcome to the forum. I would really like to do a husbandry review with you. There are a few things with the cage I do see that will need to be corrected.
Can you tell me approximately how long her body is from tip of nose to her vent? This will give me a better idea on age. Granted this will be a rough estimate. Based on her size she looks to be quite young.

If you would like to copy and paste the form below into your reply and then answer all the question with detail we can make sure you get started on the right track.

Chameleon Info:

  • Your Chameleon - The species, sex, and age of your chameleon. How long has it been in your care?
  • Handling - How often do you handle your chameleon?
  • Feeding - What are you feeding your cham? What amount? What is the schedule? How are you gut-loading your feeders?
  • Supplements - What brand and type of calcium and vitamin products are you dusting your feeders with and what is the schedule?
  • Watering - What kind of watering technique do you use? How often and how long to you mist? Do you see your chameleon drinking?
  • Fecal Description - Briefly note colors and consistency from recent droppings. Has this chameleon ever been tested for parasites?
  • History - Any previous information about your cham that might be useful to others when trying to help you.

Cage Info:

  • Cage Type - Describe your cage (Glass, Screen, Combo?) What are the dimensions?
  • Lighting - What brand, model, and types of lighting are you using? What is your daily lighting schedule?
  • Temperature - What temp range have you created (cage floor to basking spot)? Lowest overnight temp? How do you measure these temps?
  • Humidity - What are your humidity levels? How are you creating and maintaining these levels? What do you use to measure humidity?
  • Plants - Are you using live plants? If so, what kind?
  • Placement - Where is your cage located? Is it near any fans, air vents, or high traffic areas? At what height is the top of the cage relative to your room floor?
  • Location - Where are you geographically located?

Current Problem - The current problem you are concerned about.
 
Chameleon Info:
  • Your Chameleon - The species, sex, and age of your chameleon. How long has it been in your care?
Female veiled, not sure about age but about 6-7 inches from snoot to tail tip.

  • Handling - How often do you handle your chameleon?

Maybe 1-2 x per week…. I don’t want to stress her out too much, so I’ve been trying to just let her get settled.
  • Feeding - What are you feeding your cham? What amount? What is the schedule? How are you gut-loading your feeders?

Around small crickets per day, just added small Dubia roaches to the rotation since she doesn’t seem to like mealworms. Also ordered some small hornworms from Dubia.com

I dont really have a feeding schedule so advice on that would be greatly appreciated! I work from home and she’s in my office so I just keep an eye on her throughout the day and if it looks like she’s hunting I’ll put some in there for her to hunt. I’ve also just been putting the bugs in there loose… should I be using a feeder thingy(not sure of terminology here lol)?Gutloading with store bought stuff (flukers).
  • Supplements - What brand and type of calcium and vitamin products are you dusting your feeders with and what is the schedule?
Using repticalcium w/o D3; have a D3 supp to use 2-3x per month. I usually just dust them right before feeding them to get.

  • Watering - What kind of watering technique do you use? How often and how long to you mist? Do you see your chameleon drinking?
I’ve seen her drinking maybe three times but whitish tip to excrement so I know she’s drinking. I have a dripper that I turn on a couple times per day for 10-15 mins and mist by hand before lights on, once during the middle of the day and again about an hour before lights out. It’s super dry here so if I see the humidity level dropping into the 20s I’ll put in a small humidifier for 30 mins or so to bring it back up.

  • Fecal Description - Briefly note colors and consistency from recent droppings. Has this chameleon ever been tested for parasites?

Solid, brown/black with white end. No testing for parasites.

  • History - Any previous information about your cham that might be useful to others when trying to help you.

Nothing :(

Cage Info:
I only use the heat portion of the lamp but took the uvb bulb out. I replaced uvb with this: https://a.co/d/bc5zC2y
  • Temperature - What temp range have you created (cage floor to basking spot)? I think I over estimated in my OP because I think the highest it gets is 76. Usually between 70-76 during the day, lowest 58 at night (I have a thermometer in there
  • Humidity - What are your humidity levels? How are you creating and maintaining these levels? What do you use to measure humidity? Between 30-50. If it drops below 30, I put humidifier in and mist for like 30 seconds to get it back up (it’s super dry jn AZ).
  • Plants - Are you using live plants? If so, what kind? I have a pothos and a dracaena in there. There is one fake plant that I plan on replacing soon. I had done bare bottom at first but then someone told me to add soil and moss… so I did that, but it’s hard to clean so I think I’m going to take it out and go back to bare this weekend- any thoughts on this would be greatly appreciated!
  • Placement - Where is your cage located? Is it near any fans, air vents, or high traffic areas? At what height is the top of the cage relative to your room floor?
On top of an electric fire place (it’s Arizona… I don’t actually use it, it’s more for aesthetics lol). Low traffic took about four feet off the floor, second story of the house (not that she knows that lol). No fans or vents nearby
  • Location - Where are you geographically located?
Arizona 🥵

Current Problem - egglaying. How soon do I have to start worrying about that and what should I do in regards to a bin?
 
Also just realized you said from nose to vent, not tail tip. Nose to vent would be maybe 2.5 inches
 
So at that size she would be more around the 3 month range. I will have time to go through your form completely this afternoon. :)
Thank you SO much. I really appreciate everything you do and all of the advice I’ve already pulled from your posts on other threads!
 
I’ll be putting my feedback in bold. If it is something urgent, I’ll use red. I talk a lot so will break this into two parts. :)
Chameleon Info:
  • Your Chameleon - The species, sex, and age of your chameleon. How long has it been in your care?
Female veiled, not sure about age but about 6-7 inches from snoot to tail tip. Beman guesses around 3 months, and that looks about right so that is the age I’ll go by.

  • Handling - How often do you handle your chameleon?

Maybe 1-2 x per week…. I don’t want to stress her out too much, so I’ve been trying to just let her get settled. It is important to build trust and this is a great blog on how to do that. https://www.chameleonforums.com/blogs/building-trust-with-your-chameleon.2396/
  • Feeding - What are you feeding your cham? What amount? What is the schedule? How are you gut-loading your feeders?

Around small crickets per day, just added small Dubia roaches to the rotation since she doesn’t seem to like mealworms. Also ordered some small hornworms from Dubia.com Mealworms aren’t a good staple to use, but there are a few others. One of my favorite is silkworms. Chameleons not only like, but need a good variety. Many on line vendors sell species specific variety packs, and if you have only one or two insect eaters, it’s a good deal.

I dont really have a feeding schedule so advice on that would be greatly appreciated! I work from home and she’s in my office so I just keep an eye on her throughout the day and if it looks like she’s hunting I’ll put some in there for her to hunt. I’ve also just been putting the bugs in there loose… should I be using a feeder thingy(not sure of terminology here lol)?Gutloading with store bought stuff (flukers). You should be feeding her once in the morning and for her age, she needs about 20+ feeders. I don’t care for the idea of just setting the bugs loose for a few reasons - you have no idea how many she ate, she may not always be able to find them all, uneaten crickets get hungry and will bite her at night and loose insects can/will walk thru her poo and then she’ll be eating them. There are several types of feeding stations available. I like the shooting gallery. https://tkchameleons.com/products/shooting-gallery?variant=30018608595032 There is also full throttle style https://www.fullthrottlefeeders.com/ and similar is the lunch log https://sunsetchameleons.com/product/chameleon-feeder/ plus there’s a couple of different styles on Etsy. Of course, you can always make your own. The main thing is to have your insects contained and unable to escape and in the same place for your little cutie to find them. Is best to place the feeding station where she can easily see it from her basking branch and not on the floor.
For gutloading, I suggest keeping your insects well fed with a variety of fresh produce - greens, veggies and just a little bit of fruit. We’ve probably all started with the Fluker’s lol, and they have almost no nutrition - just hydration. There are some good commercial products. Including the feeder and gutloading graphics to help guide you.

  • Supplements - What brand and type of calcium and vitamin products are you dusting your feeders with and what is the schedule?
Using repticalcium w/o D3; have a D3 supp to use 2-3x per month. I usually just dust them right before feeding them to get. ReptiCalcium without D3 is pretty good. It does tend to stick heavily, so make sure not to put too much and have your bugs look like powdered donuts. You’ll use that for every feeding except when using a different supplement. What is your D3 supplement? The easiest way and one which is very good for your chameleon as well is to use either Repashy calcium plus LoD or Reptivite with D3. Both are a combination multivitamin and D3 and are given just one feeding every other week. These two are preferred because they contain preformed vitamin A which is good for chameleon eyes and is a form which is known that chameleons can use. Most other multivitamins contain proformed vitamin A, which chameleons may not be able to use.

  • Watering - What kind of watering technique do you use? How often and how long to you mist? Do you see your chameleon drinking?
I’ve seen her drinking maybe three times but whitish tip to excrement so I know she’s drinking. I have a dripper that I turn on a couple times per day for 10-15 mins and mist by hand before lights on, once during the middle of the day and again about an hour before lights out. It’s super dry here so if I see the humidity level dropping into the 20s I’ll put in a small humidifier for 30 mins or so to bring it back up. You don’t want to use a humidifier during the day when it’s warm. Heat plus high humidity increases/causes respiratory infection. I’ll talk more about humidity later. For hydration, you want to mist for at least 2 minutes right before lights go on and off. If she needs, you can use a dripper once a day for about 15 minutes. If your night time temps are consistently below at least 68-70, this is when you can use the humidifier and boost humidity all the way. This simulates the hydration chameleons get in the wild thru fog.

  • Fecal Description - Briefly note colors and consistency from recent droppings. Has this chameleon ever been tested for parasites?

Solid, brown/black with white end. No testing for parasites. It’s always a good idea to have a fecal check done, especially if she came from one of the chain pet stores.

  • History - Any previous information about your cham that might be useful to others when trying to help you.
IMG_0025.jpeg
IMG_0005.jpeg
 
I’ll be putting my feedback in bold. If it is something urgent, I’ll use red. I talk a lot so will break this into two parts. :)
Chameleon Info:
  • Your Chameleon - The species, sex, and age of your chameleon. How long has it been in your care?
Female veiled, not sure about age but about 6-7 inches from snoot to tail tip. Beman guesses around 3 months, and that looks about right so that is the age I’ll go by.

  • Handling - How often do you handle your chameleon?

Maybe 1-2 x per week…. I don’t want to stress her out too much, so I’ve been trying to just let her get settled. It is important to build trust and this is a great blog on how to do that. https://www.chameleonforums.com/blogs/building-trust-with-your-chameleon.2396/
  • Feeding - What are you feeding your cham? What amount? What is the schedule? How are you gut-loading your feeders?

Around small crickets per day, just added small Dubia roaches to the rotation since she doesn’t seem to like mealworms. Also ordered some small hornworms from Dubia.com Mealworms aren’t a good staple to use, but there are a few others. One of my favorite is silkworms. Chameleons not only like, but need a good variety. Many on line vendors sell species specific variety packs, and if you have only one or two insect eaters, it’s a good deal.

I dont really have a feeding schedule so advice on that would be greatly appreciated! I work from home and she’s in my office so I just keep an eye on her throughout the day and if it looks like she’s hunting I’ll put some in there for her to hunt. I’ve also just been putting the bugs in there loose… should I be using a feeder thingy(not sure of terminology here lol)?Gutloading with store bought stuff (flukers). You should be feeding her once in the morning and for her age, she needs about 20+ feeders. I don’t care for the idea of just setting the bugs loose for a few reasons - you have no idea how many she ate, she may not always be able to find them all, uneaten crickets get hungry and will bite her at night and loose insects can/will walk thru her poo and then she’ll be eating them. There are several types of feeding stations available. I like the shooting gallery. https://tkchameleons.com/products/shooting-gallery?variant=30018608595032 There is also full throttle style https://www.fullthrottlefeeders.com/ and similar is the lunch log https://sunsetchameleons.com/product/chameleon-feeder/ plus there’s a couple of different styles on Etsy. Of course, you can always make your own. The main thing is to have your insects contained and unable to escape and in the same place for your little cutie to find them. Is best to place the feeding station where she can easily see it from her basking branch and not on the floor.
For gutloading, I suggest keeping your insects well fed with a variety of fresh produce - greens, veggies and just a little bit of fruit. We’ve probably all started with the Fluker’s lol, and they have almost no nutrition - just hydration. There are some good commercial products. Including the feeder and gutloading graphics to help guide you.

  • Supplements - What brand and type of calcium and vitamin products are you dusting your feeders with and what is the schedule?
Using repticalcium w/o D3; have a D3 supp to use 2-3x per month. I usually just dust them right before feeding them to get. ReptiCalcium without D3 is pretty good. It does tend to stick heavily, so make sure not to put too much and have your bugs look like powdered donuts. You’ll use that for every feeding except when using a different supplement. What is your D3 supplement? The easiest way and one which is very good for your chameleon as well is to use either Repashy calcium plus LoD or Reptivite with D3. Both are a combination multivitamin and D3 and are given just one feeding every other week. These two are preferred because they contain preformed vitamin A which is good for chameleon eyes and is a form which is known that chameleons can use. Most other multivitamins contain proformed vitamin A, which chameleons may not be able to use.

  • Watering - What kind of watering technique do you use? How often and how long to you mist? Do you see your chameleon drinking?
I’ve seen her drinking maybe three times but whitish tip to excrement so I know she’s drinking. I have a dripper that I turn on a couple times per day for 10-15 mins and mist by hand before lights on, once during the middle of the day and again about an hour before lights out. It’s super dry here so if I see the humidity level dropping into the 20s I’ll put in a small humidifier for 30 mins or so to bring it back up. You don’t want to use a humidifier during the day when it’s warm. Heat plus high humidity increases/causes respiratory infection. I’ll talk more about humidity later. For hydration, you want to mist for at least 2 minutes right before lights go on and off. If she needs, you can use a dripper once a day for about 15 minutes. If your night time temps are consistently below at least 68-70, this is when you can use the humidifier and boost humidity all the way. This simulates the hydration chameleons get in the wild thru fog.

  • Fecal Description - Briefly note colors and consistency from recent droppings. Has this chameleon ever been tested for parasites?

Solid, brown/black with white end. No testing for parasites. It’s always a good idea to have a fecal check done, especially if she came from one of the chain pet stores.

  • History - Any previous information about your cham that might be useful to others when trying to help you.
View attachment 353904View attachment 353905
Reading this now! But the lawyer in me totally scanned it for red first 😂
 
I’ll be putting my feedback in bold. If it is something urgent, I’ll use red. I talk a lot so will break this into two parts. :)
Chameleon Info:
  • Your Chameleon - The species, sex, and age of your chameleon. How long has it been in your care?
Female veiled, not sure about age but about 6-7 inches from snoot to tail tip. Beman guesses around 3 months, and that looks about right so that is the age I’ll go by.

  • Handling - How often do you handle your chameleon?

Maybe 1-2 x per week…. I don’t want to stress her out too much, so I’ve been trying to just let her get settled. It is important to build trust and this is a great blog on how to do that. https://www.chameleonforums.com/blogs/building-trust-with-your-chameleon.2396/
  • Feeding - What are you feeding your cham? What amount? What is the schedule? How are you gut-loading your feeders?

Around small crickets per day, just added small Dubia roaches to the rotation since she doesn’t seem to like mealworms. Also ordered some small hornworms from Dubia.com Mealworms aren’t a good staple to use, but there are a few others. One of my favorite is silkworms. Chameleons not only like, but need a good variety. Many on line vendors sell species specific variety packs, and if you have only one or two insect eaters, it’s a good deal.

I dont really have a feeding schedule so advice on that would be greatly appreciated! I work from home and she’s in my office so I just keep an eye on her throughout the day and if it looks like she’s hunting I’ll put some in there for her to hunt. I’ve also just been putting the bugs in there loose… should I be using a feeder thingy(not sure of terminology here lol)?Gutloading with store bought stuff (flukers). You should be feeding her once in the morning and for her age, she needs about 20+ feeders. I don’t care for the idea of just setting the bugs loose for a few reasons - you have no idea how many she ate, she may not always be able to find them all, uneaten crickets get hungry and will bite her at night and loose insects can/will walk thru her poo and then she’ll be eating them. There are several types of feeding stations available. I like the shooting gallery. https://tkchameleons.com/products/shooting-gallery?variant=30018608595032 There is also full throttle style https://www.fullthrottlefeeders.com/ and similar is the lunch log https://sunsetchameleons.com/product/chameleon-feeder/ plus there’s a couple of different styles on Etsy. Of course, you can always make your own. The main thing is to have your insects contained and unable to escape and in the same place for your little cutie to find them. Is best to place the feeding station where she can easily see it from her basking branch and not on the floor.
For gutloading, I suggest keeping your insects well fed with a variety of fresh produce - greens, veggies and just a little bit of fruit. We’ve probably all started with the Fluker’s lol, and they have almost no nutrition - just hydration. There are some good commercial products. Including the feeder and gutloading graphics to help guide you.

  • Supplements - What brand and type of calcium and vitamin products are you dusting your feeders with and what is the schedule?
Using repticalcium w/o D3; have a D3 supp to use 2-3x per month. I usually just dust them right before feeding them to get. ReptiCalcium without D3 is pretty good. It does tend to stick heavily, so make sure not to put too much and have your bugs look like powdered donuts. You’ll use that for every feeding except when using a different supplement. What is your D3 supplement? The easiest way and one which is very good for your chameleon as well is to use either Repashy calcium plus LoD or Reptivite with D3. Both are a combination multivitamin and D3 and are given just one feeding every other week. These two are preferred because they contain preformed vitamin A which is good for chameleon eyes and is a form which is known that chameleons can use. Most other multivitamins contain proformed vitamin A, which chameleons may not be able to use.

  • Watering - What kind of watering technique do you use? How often and how long to you mist? Do you see your chameleon drinking?
I’ve seen her drinking maybe three times but whitish tip to excrement so I know she’s drinking. I have a dripper that I turn on a couple times per day for 10-15 mins and mist by hand before lights on, once during the middle of the day and again about an hour before lights out. It’s super dry here so if I see the humidity level dropping into the 20s I’ll put in a small humidifier for 30 mins or so to bring it back up. You don’t want to use a humidifier during the day when it’s warm. Heat plus high humidity increases/causes respiratory infection. I’ll talk more about humidity later. For hydration, you want to mist for at least 2 minutes right before lights go on and off. If she needs, you can use a dripper once a day for about 15 minutes. If your night time temps are consistently below at least 68-70, this is when you can use the humidifier and boost humidity all the way. This simulates the hydration chameleons get in the wild thru fog.

  • Fecal Description - Briefly note colors and consistency from recent droppings. Has this chameleon ever been tested for parasites?

Solid, brown/black with white end. No testing for parasites. It’s always a good idea to have a fecal check done, especially if she came from one of the chain pet stores.

  • History - Any previous information about your cham that might be useful to others when trying to help you.
View attachment 353904View attachment 353905
Thank you so much for all of this feedback! And yeah the D3 one I have is Reptivite.

I had no idea there were such cute feeding stations!!!
 
Cage Info:
  • Cage Type - screen 16x16x30. I know I’ll have to get her a bigger one so my dad is going to help me make one when he gets back from his work trip. Question- how long do you think I have to get the bigger one ready for her? She will be near to her full size in just a few months and will definitely need larger by then. The minimum standard is 2x2x4’ or equivalent. If you have the space, definitely think about giving her larger than that.
  • Lighting - okay so the kit came with this: https://www.petsmart.com/reptile/en...Z-PseEO_mpT5J_y6TUsaAt4PEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds.
I only use the heat portion of the lamp but took the uvb bulb out. I replaced uvb with this: https://a.co/d/bc5zC2y Good job! However, when you upgrade her to a larger enclosure, you’ll be needing a longer light. I did the same thing when I started out. I’ve found good use since for my short uvb. You want your uvb long enough to be able to span the width of the enclosure. Since you have a little one, I advise raising your lights at least a few inches off the screen top. Little ones enjoy walking upside down along the screen top which places them at high risk for burns.
You don’t say what schedule your lights are on/off. A 12 hour schedule is best and using a timer is even better. No lights on at night.

  • Temperature - What temp range have you created (cage floor to basking spot)? I think I over estimated in my OP because I think the highest it gets is 76. Usually between 70-76 during the day, Basking temps for little ones and girls is around 78-80 lowest 58 at night (I have a thermometer in there
  • Humidity - What are your humidity levels? How are you creating and maintaining these levels? What do you use to measure humidity? Between 30-50. If it drops below 30, I put humidifier in and mist for like 30 seconds to get it back up (it’s super dry jn AZ). The best ways to maintain humidity is to wrap the back and at least one side with something like a shower curtain or insulating window film and have lots of safe live plants. No humidifier during the day as I already covered. I also advise to get a better thermometer and hygrometer than the one that came with the kit. Those are horribly wrong. Usually a digital one with a probe end is good. There’s also ‘smart’ ones like Govee and others that some members use and like.
  • Plants - Are you using live plants? If so, what kind? I have a pothos and a dracaena in there. There is one fake plant that I plan on replacing soon. You can hang the fake plant on the outside to give her more privacy. Pothos is awesome and always a favorite. You can add more pothos or try a variety of plants. https://chameleonacademy.com/plants/ I do suggest always having a couple of extra plants on hand. You want to create a forest edge type area with lots of foliage to take shade under and hide in and a nice little clearing to bask in. You also need to add lots more branches of varied diameters and vines for her to travel on. It can be a challenge to hang things as you don’t want to use the screen - it will rip. You need to use the frame of the enclosure to carry the weight of things by using Dragon Ledges https://dragonstrand.com/dragon-ledges/ making a scaffolding from branches which is secured to the frame, or I’ve found garden trellis is quite nice. I had done bare bottom at first but then someone told me to add soil and moss… so I did that, but it’s hard to clean so I think I’m going to take it out and go back to bare this weekend- any thoughts on this would be greatly appreciated! Bare floor is best and easiest to keep clean. No moss anywhere! It’s a high risk item for bowel obstruction. Later, as you become more experienced, you may want to try bioactive, but for now let’s stick with bare floor. :)
  • Placement - Where is your cage located? Is it near any fans, air vents, or high traffic areas? At what height is the top of the cage relative to your room floor?
On top of an electric fire place (it’s Arizona… I don’t actually use it, it’s more for aesthetics lol). Low traffic took about four feet off the floor, second story of the house (not that she knows that lol). No fans or vents nearby Ok. Just keep in mind as you upgrade and all that height is safety for chameleons.
  • Location - Where are you geographically located?
Arizona 🥵 Florida 🥵🐜🪳🕷️

Current Problem - egglaying. How soon do I have to start worrying about that and what should I do in regards to a bin? At her current estimated age of 3 months, you have at least 2-3 months before you need to start worrying. When she starts developing her big girl colors is when it’s time to get your lay bin in her enclosure. This should help you quite a bit. https://www.chameleonforums.com/blogs/veiled-chameleon-laying-101.2488/
By the way, your little girl is just adorable! 🤗
Here’s some pics of some of my past enclosures to give you an idea of set up.
IMG_1444.jpeg IMG_1449.jpeg
 
Back
Top Bottom