Lighting

jennleila

New Member
Ive been doing research and the internet says to use a Resptisun 5.0 linear and some say to use a Reptisun 10.0 linear. Isn't the 10.0 for desert animals?
 
No, it's not exclusively for desert animals. It's stronger than a 5.0 but not by very much. It's much weaker than the Arcadia 6% bulbs that are getting so popular with chameleons now, for example. Or the Powersuns, which are popular with bearded dragons.

I use the Reptisun 10.0s on all my chameleons now.

[Edit to add] All proper chameleon cages should have areas of thicker shade where chameleons can hie away from the UVB and heat if they want/need to. Regardless of what bulb you use. Just thought I'd mention :)
 
What do you consider a big cage?

Carl

Hi Carl,
A bigger cage would be considered 3 to 4 feet tall, it also depends on how heavily planted the cage is for shade and pretty much what Olympia said above. If the cage is not heavily planted, you should stick with the lower output UV bulbs for safety. If its a tall cage and you have lots of plants you could use a higher output UV bulb. The Arcadia 6% HO(high output) they do put out quite a bit of UV. The 12% puts out even more UV and can be used on cages that are heavily planted and that are 3 to 4 feet tall, but care should be used when using the 12% bulbs.

Sincerely,
Todd
 
I have a 24x24x48. I have a ficus, umbrella plant and hibiscus. Would a reptisun 5.0 be strong enough? Since the UVB reaches 12 inches down, would that restrict him to the top 25% of the cage? The are lower than the top 25%. The top has vine sand branches.

Next question: Besides crickets, what are other non-hopping or non-flying insects that the chameleon can have as a staple?

Thanks!
 
You could use a 10.0 in a 4' cage without problem, I think. Remember that the screen from the cage cuts down how much UVB gets through, and add to that that UVB output decreases with time and I end up opting for the higher-output bulb in the end. I've done and seen Solarmeter readings of the 5.0s through screen and I haven't purchased one in a couple years now.

You could look into roaches, like dubias. They don't climb, fly, or hop, don't make noise, and breed and live for a long time. Then as far as worms you have superworms, hornworms, silkworms, butterworms, etc. Check out any of the forum sponsors that sell bugs and see what feeders they offer - there are lots that are great.
 
Just an fyi on roaches- the males do have wings, but cant fly. so if you do go that route, don't get scared because of wings, they cant support them to really much of anything.
I prefer roaches over crickets any day.

they breed faster, don't smell, don't make noises, and I never find them loose in my house (unlike pesky crickets).
 
Just an fyi on roaches- the males do have wings, but cant fly. so if you do go that route, don't get scared because of wings, they cant support them to really much of anything.
I prefer roaches over crickets any day.

they breed faster, don't smell, don't make noises, and I never find them loose in my house (unlike pesky crickets).

I recently got some roaches and can agree on everything you mentioned. It's just trying to get my guy to notice them now lol
 
Todd I totally understand why your bulbs put out more UVB I just don't think that a lot of people know your not using the typical bulb to achieve those results. I am very familiar with T5 HO lighting. T8 bulbs pale in comparison for light output per watt. T12's do they even still make them?

When using a high quality ballast like the Ice Cap 660 (now Vue 660) T8's can be overdriven to produce higher output. The draw back is when using the over- driven bulb in our application UV output drops off at around the 4-5 month range depending on hours run.

T5's are the way to go for us for any size cage but the costs of pre built units are still kinda high. If your willing to build your own assemblies with high quality individual reflectors they pay for themselves in electric bill savings.

Carl
 
I use the 5.0 right now, but have seen people on here use 10.0, so I was thinking about going that route.

But can anybody comment on this? It's from Kammerflage Kreations care sheet.

An important WARNING to mention is to NEVER use a 10.0 bulb on a chameleon. "More" is not better in this case. The phosphorus levels that are emitted are much too high for a chameleon, and this output of UV can actually harm or even kill your chameleon!
 
Big Gulp, we've seen that too. I think we discussed it in that "definitive lighting" thread that is floating around, because none of us (not even the guys from Light Your Reptiles) could figure out what the Kammers mean by phosphorus emissions. Carol sent them emails about it but I don't think she ever heard back. They're the only source I know of that says this.

But several of us have been using these bulbs for some years now with perfect results. I've checked mine and seen reports made by others about their UVB output with a Solarmeter and the output is higher than with a 5.0 but not dangerous in any way. Nothing else I've read has mentioned phosphorous at all.
 
Arcadia for the win, not sure if its that, my lil guys diet, or what but he is growing much faster then I could imagine. Great color. I will only buy Arcadia.
 
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