@littlekiwi ...this chameleon needs everything to be 100% correct right away if you want to give her the best chance possible for recovery and to keep the MBD from returning.
For supplements...she needs to have the insects dusted just before you feed them to her with a phos free calcium powder at all feedings but 4 a month. This helps to make up for the often poor ratio of calcium to phos found in many of the feeder insects so it can keep her bones strong. BECAUSE YOUR CHAMELEON HAS MBD, SHE WILL ALSO NEED EXTRA CALCIUM IN LIQUID FORM (no D3 in the liquid calcium) UNTIL HER BONES ARE STRONG ENOUGH AGAIN. YOU WILL NEED A VET TO TELL YOU THIS.
On two of those 4 remaining feedings...one feeding every second week, you need to use a phos free calcium/D3 powder. This gives her some D3without overdosing her and leaving her to make the rest of the D3 she needs from her exposure to the UVB you will be providing. D3 from supplements can build up in the system and cause health problems which is why we only do it so little.
On the remaining two feedings, two weeks apart you need too use a vitamin powder, no D3 but with beta carotene, a prOformed source of vitamin A. PrOformed sources of vitamin A will not build up in the system so this makes the vitamin powder safer. This leaves it up to you to provide a prEformed source of vitamin A if the chameleon shows a need for it. (Most veileds don't seem to if they are kept like I'm describing.) PrEformed sources contain words like acetate, retinol, retinyl, retinal, palmitate, etc.
Feeding/gutloading the insects is important too. For crickets, superworms, locusts, roaches I use dandelion greens, collards, kale, endive, escarole, mustard greens, squash, zucchini, sweet potato, sweet red pepper, and a very little bit of berries, apples, pears, melon, papaya, mango, etc.
Re lighting...the most recommended UVB light is the LONG LINEAR TUBE Reptisun 5.0. I have used it for many years. UVB allows the chameleon to make D3 so that it can use the calcium you're providing the chameleon. Light from the UVB will not likely overdose your chameleon with D3 as long as the ch ameleon can move in and out of it at will. ONE THING TO KEEP IN MIND FOR YOUR CHAMELEON...BECAUSE SHE HAS MBD SHE MAY NOT BE ABLE TO MOVE WELL AND MAY NOT BE ABLE TO MOVE OUT OF THE LIGHT ...THIS ALSO GOES FOR THE BASKING LIGHT.
For basking, a regular household incandescent bulb of a wattage that puts the temperature in the low 80'sF is all that's needed.
Temperatures are important too because they aid in digestion....as is
water. Use of a mister and a dripper are recommended.
For cage set up... For now a hospital cage is recommended...low ...so she can get UVB light without having to worry about her falling and breaking more bones. Soft floor to break falls. Sticks/branches that she can easily grip.
Hopefully she will be ok. Keep us posted.
I hope I didn't miss anything in this post.