Left eye Shut for 3 days now

Hey everyone, my baby veiled Perry has had his left eye almost all the way shut for a solid three days now. On the first day I researched this and found that too high of a uvb bulb could cause what was comparable to snow-blindness, I realized that I had stupidly bought a 10.0 UVB coil fluorescent so I went straight over to the pet store and bought the same bulb in 5.0. Early yesterday things persisted so I kept researching to find someone mention that for cham's up to 1 month of age to avoid using a coil fluorescent and to instead use tube fluorescent, so I switched the lighting from my leopard gecko for which I was using a 2.0 tube fluorescent uvb, so now I have that bulb set up with my cham instead of the coil for a while.


Chameleon Info:
Your Chameleon - The species, sex, and age of your chameleon. How long has it been in your care?
Veiled Chameleon, Male, about a month old, Have had him about 2 weeks

Handling - How often do you handle your chameleon?
Haven't Handled him directly as of yet, was waiting for him to become more comfortable first

Feeding - What are you feeding your cham? What amount? What is the schedule? How are you gut-loading your feeders?
Been Feeding him a mix of crickets, mealworms, and butterworms.
The crickets I've been letting loose for him to hunt 4 or 5 at a time. The mealworms I've been feeding him via a mealworm dish in his tank, I leave 5-10 small mealworms in the dish with a bit of their food for him to eat at will. The butterworms I've been feeding him 1-2 per day on his hammock.

Supplements - What brand and type of calcium and vitamin products are you dusting your feeders with and what is the schedule?
ZooMed Calcium supplement when I buy all the feeders, and then a short while before putting them in his tank I'll shake some more in there.

Watering - What kind of watering technique do you use? How often and how long to you mist? Do you see your chameleon drinking?
I've been giving him water by laying ice cubes on top of his cage under his basking light and allowing them to melt and drip down on leaves and such (was wondering if it would be beneficial to previously distill the water to remove impurities?), I've been doing this 3-4 times daily, I've also been misting 2-3 times daily for a minute or two each time

Fecal Description - Briefly note colours and consistency from recent droppings. Has this chameleon ever been tested for parasites?
His droppings have been dark brown on half and the other half partially white partially yellow. He has not been tested for parasites but was captive bred.

History - Any previous information about your cham that might be useful to others when trying to help you.
He doesn't really have any history considering his age :p

Cage Info:
Cage Type - Describe your cage (Glass, Screen, Combo?) What are the dimensions?
Glass with a screen top. 18" wide x 12" deep x 18" tall. (Starting to build larger fully screen enclosure next week.)

Lighting - What brand, model, and types of lighting are you using? What is your daily lighting schedule?
was using Exo Terra UVB 10.0 coil fluorescent for the first week and a half I had him, then I switched to an Exo Terra UVB 5.0 coil fluorescent bulb, now I'm using an Exo Terra UVB 2.0 tube fluorescent. I've been doing a 12/12 schedule the entire time with this light, 12pm-12am. I'm using a 75 watt infrared bulb for his basking light, I leave this one on 24/7. I keep both these lights about 4 inches above the screen top.

Temperature - What temp range have you created (cage floor to basking spot)?
The daytime temps are about 68-71 on the floor level, mid temps are about 75-80, basking temps are 85-92

Lowest overnight temp? How do you measure these temps?
Lowest overnight is usually 67. Up until today I was using a digital hygro/thermometer, but it fell and broke today, so tomorrow I'll be replacing it.

Humidity - What are your humidity levels? How are you creating and maintaining these levels? What do you use to measure humidity?
usually 40-55%, I've been misting 2-3 times a day so far, tomorrow I plan to go buy an automatic mister, I can either get the exo terra mister for $60 or the exo terra monsoon for $200, I'll get the monsoon if I know that it will be beneficial for him for me to spend the extra money, I'm just not sure if it will. Also, once again I was measuring using that same hygro/thermo that broke.

Plants - Are you using live plants? If so, what kind?
Not yet, though I plan to once his full size enclosure is complete, so safe plant suggestions would be much appreciated!

Placement - Where is your cage located? Is it near any fans, air vents, or high traffic areas? At what height is the top of the cage relative to your room floor?
It's located on a cabinet in our dining room, we have a small apartment so most places are kind of high traffic, but we're quite quiet. No fans or air vent, and the cabinet the tank is placed on is a little over 3 feet tall.

Location - Where are you geographically located?
St. John's, Newfoundland, Canada.

Please note there is no Herpetologist that I am aware of working in Newfoundland at all.

Thank you all in advance for any help you can give me!
 
you want to switch back to the 5.0. That is the standards everyone uses. Most of us use the reptisun or reptiglo brand tube lights. Others use the coils successfully. The snow blindness you are referring to was a problem that was way back with the coil bulbs and has since been rectified. Your basking temps are too high for a baby. What are you using to achieve those temps? Some people do not even use basking light for that young of age so if your cage temps are around 80 without a basking light then you don't even need one.If temps are too high, that could cause a chameleon to close eyes, but it is odd that only is closed and not both. Eye issues can be caused by things such as debri in the eye turret, vitamin deficiencies, injury, infections etc.. You need to be dusting your feeders with three supplements. Calcium without d3 at every feeding, a multivitamin twice a month and a calcium with the d3 a few times a month also. What are you feeding your crickets? It is important to gutload them(feed them well) a diet of fresh fruits and vegetables. There are other things you can feed like cricket crack as well. Do some research on that. Please post a pic of your setup and cham so we can try and help you further.
 
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There are many possible reasons for eye problems and consulting a vet may be the best and fastest way to figure the problem out. Regardless, make sure your chameleon can still eat - when they lose binocular vision they are not always able to shoot at the prey and can possible starve.
 
There are many possible reasons for eye problems and consulting a vet may be the best and fastest way to figure the problem out. Regardless, make sure your chameleon can still eat - when they lose binocular vision they are not always able to shoot at the prey and can possible starve.

I think he stated there are not vets?(herpatologists) that treat chameleons around, that is why I did not suggest, but yes, that would be a good idea!!!
 
I think he stated there are not vets?(herpatologists) that treat chameleons around, that is why I did not suggest, but yes, that would be a good idea!!!

Good point, I guess I had misinterpreted the comment about the herpetologist...
 
Supplements - What brand and type of calcium and vitamin products are you dusting your feeders with and what is the schedule?

"ZooMed Calcium supplement when I buy all the feeders, and then a short while before putting them in his tank I'll shake some more in there."





If I couldn't find any obvious reasons of why the left eye would be closed. I would start supplementing Vit A. if not already
The way I do it, I buy Vitamin A as "Retinol" gel tabs from local pharmacy. Poke tiny hole and smear 1 drop on a single feeder. I'll Make sure I watch it consumed. Then feed your regular schedule and will continue for a few days if the eye was closed.
This has worked for me, I don't know if I can prove it but I have seen it work. Also you may want to get some multi vitamin powder to use more regularly . I use MinerAll Indoor and Reptivite for examples. I do use your zoo meds calcium w and w/ out d3 as well. So you have an idea .


Newfoundland

Dr. Alvin King-Harris
Churchill Square Veterinarian Clinic
St. Johns, Newfoundland
Dr. H. DeZeeuw
Sunrise Animal Hospital
1 Sunrise Ave
Mount Pearl, Newfoundland
Tel: (709) 368-7981
Tel: (709) 368-7981 (emergency)

I don't know if these are current .
 
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Wow guys this is amazing, thanks so much for all the immediate help! I'll have pics up asap! So I should avoid real vit A and stick to beta carotene correct?

And, yes I do need to be gutloading them a little more frequently, I forgot to mention I've also been feeding the crickets the jelly cricket feed, the one which is their vits and h2o combined, made by Glukers

Thanks again guys!
 
Hello, welcome
The gutloading is really not very good I attached a link.

Also that 24/7 light needs to go- they like Darkness like you and me to sleep.

Try putting them in the shower. You said yellow urates not white so that is a hydration issue.

Put a plant in the tub, bounce the warm water from the shower head onto the wall. The spray from the bounce hits the Cham. You do not want a direct hit too strong. They might have something in that eye and this could help flush it out too along with hydrating the little guy
https://www.chameleonforums.com/blogs/sandrachameleon/75-feeder-nutrition-gutloading.html

care sheet

https://www.chameleonforums.com/blogs/chameleonsinmyhouse/395-veiled-chameleon-care-sheet.html
 
Hello, welcome
The gutloading is really not very good I attached a link.

Also that 24/7 light needs to go- they like Darkness like you and me to sleep.

Try putting them in the shower. You said yellow urates not white so that is a hydration issue.

Put a plant in the tub, bounce the warm water from the shower head onto the wall. The spray from the bounce hits the Cham. You do not want a direct hit too strong. They might have something in that eye and this could help flush it out too along with hydrating the little guy
https://www.chameleonforums.com/blogs/sandrachameleon/75-feeder-nutrition-gutloading.html

care sheet

https://www.chameleonforums.com/blogs/chameleonsinmyhouse/395-veiled-chameleon-care-sheet.html

did not catch the 24/7 light on! don't know how I missed that one!!!
 
You said..."ZooMed Calcium supplement when I buy all the feeders, and then a short while before putting them in his tank I'll shake some more in there."...just to clarify...you put the calcium on the feeders, right??
 
Ok perfect thanks a lot! yes I do put the calcium mix on them, I planned on going out to get all the supplements I need today but we had a massive snow storm.

He started opening his eye again today somewhat for the first time in days, which leads me to believe it was a uvb issue.

Also at what age should I start upping the basking area temps a little?
 
Mealworms are not a staple- they should be fed sparingly. The butter worms are very high in fat so unless you are trying to fatten them up for some reason they are also a treat to be used sparingly

The yellow on their poo is dehydration- did you read about the shower I posted earlier? and the gutloading link:)
 
Okay so his other eye started closing today. I found a vet in town who can take a look at him thanks to JackP308, thanks man!

Also what should I be feeding him as his staple diet then? Well gutloaded crickets?
 
Your basking temperature is high IMHO. I usually keep it in the low 80's. Don't know if that could be part of the problem or not.
 
I have lowered the basking temps substantially, instead of using a 75w ifrared, im now using a 50w nightbulb. My mid range temps are now high 70's, and basking low eighties. Im also using moss as substrate, is this acceptable, spagum exo terra moss
 
I don't recommend using substrates since their tongues are sticky and its always a concern that a substrate might lead to an impaction if ingested.
 
K, I've switched to ZooMed Reptile Carpet

I also realized when cleaning out his cage today that there was a tiny bit of mold at the bottom of the climbing wood that I bought from petsmart, a small portion of the wood was under a part of the moss. So I totally removed it and everything else, disinfected everything, and scrubbed the inside of the tank with soap and hot water.

So I'm done with the moss definitely.

Also, I'm supposed to be taking him to the vet today but i removed him from his cage to clean it out it really stressed him out. It's rather cold outside, but i do have a magic bag i can heat up and put around whatever I have him in, do you guys think it's worth it taking him?

Is it possible this whole thing is due to stress?
So in turn could his make it worse?

Thanks again guys!
 
So, just a little update.

I brought him to the vet yesterday, he was given artificial tears which I now have to apply everyday for a little while, I also force fed him a cricket yesterday because he hadn't eaten in two days, just cut it in half and fed it to him one piece at a time each time he hissed.
This certainly wasn't my favourite experience ever, but ya gotta do what ya gotta do.

Anyway, his eyes have been opening a little, on and off, I now have a medium sized exo terra waterfall with a fogger in it because the vet was of the opinion that it was a humdity issue.
The vet seemed to think that other than the eyes, which were not swollen or pussy or anything of the sort, that my cham looks very healthy. Though they also said that most chams they see are practically on the brink of death.

But all in all, I think this was positive, I'm glad I took him, a hundred dollars well spent for my piece of mind.

I will keep updating you guys on his status, and hopefully within the next week he'll get back to normal.

I'd like to thank you all for all your extensive and timely advice, I couldn't have made it through this week without you all.

Merry Christmas to each and every one of you and your crazy little critters :).

And now I have the pleasure of introducing to you all, Perry: The Funk Master Sketch <3

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