Jackson's Chameleon sleeping all day. HELP!

LexiWoods

New Member
Your Chameleon - The species, sex, and age of your chameleon. How long has it been in your care?
Jackson’s Chameleon. Male. I’m assuming around two to three months based on the growth of his horns. He has been in our care for two weeks and two days.

Handling - How often do you handle your chameleon?
We have handled him about four times since we’ve had him. The first time was to change his enclosure from a glass tank (temporary setup) to a screen terrarium. Next was to bring him to the shower two days after placing him in his current enclosure. Then to feed him properly (placing him higher up in the plant so he could see his crickets. Finally, to weigh him. We have been trying to avoid much handling due to his new environment. We do not want to stress him.

Feeding - What are you feeding your cham? What amount? What is the schedule? How are you gut-loading your feeders?
We are feeding Walter a mixture of breeder roaches, crickets, and mealworms because we read that a variety in his diet is a great thing. We feed him about five mealworms and then about two crickets. We have the roaches in a cup in his enclosure all the time. He’s only eaten about two since we’ve placed them in there. The feeding schedule is one time per day and at around three o’clock in the afternoon. Our crickets come gut loaded as well as our mealworms. Our roaches are fed moist cat food/fruits (watermelon, strawberries, etc.)

Supplements - What brand and type of calcium and vitamin products are you dusting your feeders with and what is the schedule?
We have been using ZooMed Repti-Calcium without D3 on our crickets and mealworms everyday and Exoterra Multivitamin with D3 mixed with the calcium once every other week (so at this point, only twice). The schedule for supplements is the same as the feeding schedule.

Watering - What kind of watering technique do you use? How often and how long to you mist? Do you see your chameleon drinking?
We have a Repti-Rain mister which mists every hour for forty-five seconds, as well as hand misting when we notice the humidity is low (around 40% to 50%). Every now and then we will hand mist warm water over Walter to give him a nice hydrating shower and he will often drink from this misting. As previously stated, we DO see Walter drink.

Fecal Description - Briefly note colors and consistency from recent droppings. Has this chameleon ever been tested for parasites?
The color of his fecal matter from when we obtained him and yesterday was a dark brown and white color. Today I’ve noticed it is a light brown, almost yellow color. Only one yellow movement has been observed. I am unaware if the chameleon has ever been tested for parasites.

History - Any previous information about your cham that might be useful to others when trying to help you.
I have no history of my chameleon. I purchased him from a local pet store, Petsmart.

Cage Info:
Cage Type - Describe your cage (Glass, Screen, Combo?) What are the dimensions?

We have Walter in a 48” tall, 24” wide, 24” long screen terrarium. We attached parts of a shower curtain to the outside of his enclosure to keep the humidity in the correct range. He has the top and front screens uncovered to ensure abundant airflow.

Lighting - What brand, model, and types of lighting are you using? What is your daily lighting schedule?
We have a Repti-Sun 5.0 UVB light (15 watts) and a ZooMed basking heat UVA light (75 watts) on a timer set to come on at 8:30am and go off at 8:00pm. We also have a National Geographic red night basking UVA light (25 watts) to provide healthy digestion which comes on at 7:30am and goes off at 8:30am to provide a sunrise affect and then comes on again at 8:00pm until 9:00pm to create a sunset affect.

Temperature - What temp range have you created (basking spot to cage floor)? Lowest overnight temp? How do you measure these temps?
From the top of the terrarium to the bottom the temperature levels are as follows: Top- 85 degrees F, Middle- around 78-75 degrees F, and the Cage Floor- around 75-72 degrees F. The lowest overnight temperature that I’ve measured is about 72 degrees F. We measure the temperatures by have two thermometers in the terrarium: one at the top and one at the bottom but not touching the floor.

Humidity - What are your humidity levels? How are you creating and maintaining these levels? What do you use to measure humidity?
Our humidity levels range from 40% to 90%. As previously stated (see ‘Watering’), we have a Repti-Rain mister system that mists every hour for 45 seconds along with hand misting about three to four times per day. We measure humidity by having two hygrometers in the terrarium: one at the top and one at the bottom but not touching the floor.

Plants - Are you using live plants? If so, what kind?
We have a mixture of plastic plants and one Schleffera (real).

Placement - Where is your cage located? Is it near any fans, air vents, or high traffic areas? At what height is the top of the cage relative to your room floor?
Walter’s terrarium is located in our bedroom (a low traffic area). He is near the direction that air flows from our window unit, however the air does not blow directly on his terrarium. Also, we never use a cold setting for the room, only the fan setting. The terrarium is about two feet above the bedroom floor and is four feet tall.

Location - Where are you geographically located?
Houma, Louisiana. The south.

Current Problem - The current problem you are concerned about
We are concerned about Walter because he has slept all through the day today (from approximately 11:00am until now- 10:00pm) and hasn’t woken up to eat. We tried to wake him with a warm misting and he only moved a little. Then I tried touching him gently which caused him to move a bit but he still would not open his eyes. All yesterday he was awake and climbing and even had a hefty meal. Also, this morning at around 9:30am, he was climbing on the front of his terrarium. Now he is not budging and has remained in the same spot for hours. We are very worried. Please give us any advice you can! Thank you!

P.S. We are taking Walter to a vet tomorrow morning. I would just like to know if there is anything I can do tonight to ensure his survival if this is something very serious.


Vet results
I noticed Walter was climbing around again this morning all over the place. He even ate as soon as I placed his crickets in his enclosure. However, he did eat slightly less than he has been eating. When I called the vet this morning to confirm my appointment, a doctor said it was probably due to the temperatures being too cold from our air conditioner because it was very hot yesterday. I informed her that the temperature in his terrarium stayed around 72-75 degrees F. She said if he continues to sleep during the day then I will need to bring him in but since it was only for one day and he seems fine now, I should just keep an eye on him for today for any weird behavior or sleeping again. I've been checking my humidity levels and temps all morning and everything seems fine. Has this happened to anyone else?

Here are some pictures of Walter and his enclosure.


Walter's set up


A close up of his plants


Lighting placement. Shown: Repti-Sun 5.0 15 Watt UVB and ZooMed 75 Watt basking heat UVA bulb.


His mister.


His hygrometer and thermometer at the bottom of his terrarium.

And of course some of our lovely baby, Walter!



(last week)

 
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Taking him to the vet is going to be your best option. Without pictures I really can't say what might be done tonight. Most likely he is not in such bad shape that he will not make it through the night. If he is, then it is too late. I would also stop feeding him meal worms. They are not very good for him and there are plenty of other feeders that are. I have found that the occasional horn worm or 2 is a great way to help keep jacksons hydrated.
 
Sorry but I do not have anything to offer for help. Please let us know what you fins out at the vet visit. Good Luck.
 
Taking him to the vet is going to be your best option. Without pictures I really can't say what might be done tonight. Most likely he is not in such bad shape that he will not make it through the night. If he is, then it is too late. I would also stop feeding him meal worms. They are not very good for him and there are plenty of other feeders that are. I have found that the occasional horn worm or 2 is a great way to help keep jacksons hydrated.
Thank you so much! Yes, we are going first thing in the morning. I will be posting pictures tomorrow was well. I will definitely try hornworms!
 
Sorry but I do not have anything to offer for help. Please let us know what you fins out at the vet visit. Good Luck.
Okay well thank you so much for reading into my issue. I will be posting pictures tomorrow and I'll fill you in on the vet results. Thanks for caring!
 
Mine has been doing this and scaring the crap out of me. I think he has the vitamin A deficiency problem as well and I couldn't get a vet appointment earlier than a week from now and it's already been a few days :/
Would you guys consider this an "emergency"?
 
First of all, Walter is totes adorbs! So many new Jax on the forum... I just love the horns! Your care is off to a really good start - thanks for filling out the form. Are you sure about the age? Based on the photos, he's probably more like 7 months, a young sub-adult.

There are a few things you will want to address:

  • He needs LOTS more vines and sticks for him to climb. Right now, he has no access to the temperatures he needs to digest his food. He needs a basking spot at the top of his cage - about 8-10" from the top where the temperature is about 83*F would be perfect.
  • Keep the umbrella plant - real plants are great for helping keep up the humidity and for providing variety and drinking surfaces.
  • Mealworms are okay; superworms would be better. You can get those at almost any pet store. Feed him more crickets than superworms, though. Superworms and mealworms are both high in fat.
  • Feed him in the morning rather than the afternoon - this will give him plenty of time to digest before the lights go off. If he eats in the evening, it's not the end of the world, but he will likely prefer earlier meals.
  • Variety in his diet is a good thing! Crickets, roaches, and worms are all great feeders - you should also look into getting him some silkworms, hornworms, or blue bottle flies.
  • Don't believe the claim that the crickets and mealworms come gutloaded. At best, it's cheap feed to keep them alive; at worst, it's a lie. You want to make sure your bugs have the best possible diets so that your cham has the best possible bugs. Give them a variety of fruits and veggies (I blend it up and make veggie cubes).
  • Don't feed your roaches cat food if you are feeding them right away to your cham. Cat food is far too high in protein for chameleons and can cause kidney damage and gout.
  • Plain calcium on low-calcium feeders like crickets and superworms a few times a week is perfect. You want to use the D3 and multivitamin more sparingly - more like once and month.
  • If you can, run the mister for a longer session at least once a day - like 203 minutes minimum. Jax really like water, and sometimes are slow to start drinking. Shorting sessions like you are doing are great for keeping humidity up. Hand misting with a warm shower is one of my Jax's favorite things.
  • Yellow urates (the pee part) are a sign that he is dehydrated. Provide plenty of water and keep an eye on this.
  • The red light is not on at night, correct? I don't know if the "sunrise/sunset" effect buys you anything. I wouldn't use the red light at all.
  • It looks like you have the analogue (dial type) temperature and humidity gauge. You should consider getting a digital one. Lots of people report that the dials are not very accurate.

Whew, it's a lot of info, but really, they are pretty small things to adjust in your care. Like I said, you are off to a great start. As for the sleeping during the day thing, I agree with the vet. If it happens once, maybe he was just having an off day.

If he continues to sleep during the day, take him in for a visit. Petsmart is not well respected generally for their care of chameleons. He also could have parasites. You should take in a fresh dropping (the brown part) for a fecal check.
 
First of all, Walter is totes adorbs! So many new Jax on the forum... I just love the horns! Your care is off to a really good start - thanks for filling out the form. Are you sure about the age? Based on the photos, he's probably more like 7 months, a young sub-adult.

There are a few things you will want to address:

  • He needs LOTS more vines and sticks for him to climb. Right now, he has no access to the temperatures he needs to digest his food. He needs a basking spot at the top of his cage - about 8-10" from the top where the temperature is about 83*F would be perfect.
  • Keep the umbrella plant - real plants are great for helping keep up the humidity and for providing variety and drinking surfaces.
  • Mealworms are okay; superworms would be better. You can get those at almost any pet store. Feed him more crickets than superworms, though. Superworms and mealworms are both high in fat.
  • Feed him in the morning rather than the afternoon - this will give him plenty of time to digest before the lights go off. If he eats in the evening, it's not the end of the world, but he will likely prefer earlier meals.
  • Variety in his diet is a good thing! Crickets, roaches, and worms are all great feeders - you should also look into getting him some silkworms, hornworms, or blue bottle flies.
  • Don't believe the claim that the crickets and mealworms come gutloaded. At best, it's cheap feed to keep them alive; at worst, it's a lie. You want to make sure your bugs have the best possible diets so that your cham has the best possible bugs. Give them a variety of fruits and veggies (I blend it up and make veggie cubes).
  • Don't feed your roaches cat food if you are feeding them right away to your cham. Cat food is far too high in protein for chameleons and can cause kidney damage and gout.
  • Plain calcium on low-calcium feeders like crickets and superworms a few times a week is perfect. You want to use the D3 and multivitamin more sparingly - more like once and month.
  • If you can, run the mister for a longer session at least once a day - like 203 minutes minimum. Jax really like water, and sometimes are slow to start drinking. Shorting sessions like you are doing are great for keeping humidity up. Hand misting with a warm shower is one of my Jax's favorite things.
  • Yellow urates (the pee part) are a sign that he is dehydrated. Provide plenty of water and keep an eye on this.
  • The red light is not on at night, correct? I don't know if the "sunrise/sunset" effect buys you anything. I wouldn't use the red light at all.
  • It looks like you have the analogue (dial type) temperature and humidity gauge. You should consider getting a digital one. Lots of people report that the dials are not very accurate.

Whew, it's a lot of info, but really, they are pretty small things to adjust in your care. Like I said, you are off to a great start. As for the sleeping during the day thing, I agree with the vet. If it happens once, maybe he was just having an off day.

If he continues to sleep during the day, take him in for a visit. Petsmart is not well respected generally for their care of chameleons. He also could have parasites. You should take in a fresh dropping (the brown part) for a fecal check.
Thank you so much for all your advice! I am unaware of his age, the sales rep wasn't very knowledgeable about her reptiles so we were given no information. I had come across some over time photo collages of jackson's chams and I thought maybe he could be about 4 months tops, but if you've had a Jackson's before, you'd probably know better than my guesses. We will definitely get him some more vines for climbing. The basking spot we have set up isn't as high up because we thought he was young and read that young chams shouldn't be in the adult basking temps. Is 83 degrees okay for a 7 month old cham? (please excuse my ignorance, we're just constantly learning new things about chameleon care. Amazing!) We will keep the schefflera for him also, he loves to climb all in between the stems! Aren't superworms too big for him? I was going to buy some at my local pet store but all they had were huge worms, that's why I settled on the mealworms. Also, I'm trying to locate a source for hornworms and other worms, do you have an online source I could order from? Should I even order off of the internet?
The roaches have been fed only the fruits and veggies for the past couple of days but I'll start feeding my crickets those as well. No cat food. We'll cut back on the supplements also. What are veggie cubes and how do you make them?

We gave him a 20 minute shower in our bathroom when he got here because we could tell that he was very dehydrated and irritated. We put on lukewarm water for him and attached one of his fake plants to the side of the shower via suction cup and let the water droplets bounce off of the wall onto him. He seemed to enjoy it. He immediately perked up but was still wary of us. As for the mister running for a long time, it can't. The longest time duration it has is 60 seconds. He also doesn't seem to like it much. We think it's because the water isn't heated or anything. It's room temp but I imagine it's still uncomfortable for him. And he LOVES being warm hand misted! He turns a very calm green color and sometimes drinks from it, but most of the time he just relaxes and enjoys it! lol.

We'll change to morning feeding. I actually fed him this morning because I was so worried that he slept all day yesterday and didn't eat that I fed him as soon as I woke up. He ate readily and seemed happy and in his resting colors.

I've been keeping an eye on his fecal matter and it's been dark brown with white urates except for one. That one was yellowish poop with a white urate attached. Is yellow poop normal? I see you've noted yellow urates are a sign of dehydration. I haven't seen any sign of that. Phew!

The red light is not on all through the night. It comes on for a little while and goes off again at sunrise and sunset. I read that it makes the home seem more natural or something like that. A reptile specialist at a Repticon event we attended also said that the red light at night is good for digestion? Did she mean by keeping the temperatures up or the light actually helps chemically?

We are looking into the digital gauges are are going to get some in the near future. Do you know any brands that are reliable?

Sorry I replied to you so late, I've been at work until now. Thank you again for all your advice. We really appreciate it!
 
The little yellow zoomed digital gauge works spot on for me. I have one from home depot and one from lowes also. I make sure all three show the same results. The exo-terra one is always off on humidity, and a little off on temps. Needless to say i don't pay attention to it. The zoommed will run $29.99 @ petsmart or about $20 on amazon.com.
 
As a fellow Jackson's cham keeper (and breeder of Jackson's) I agree with the excellent advice that Lathis has given to you.
Walter is definitely much older than 3-4 months because Jackson's at those ages are brown!

In addition to what Lathis said about Walter needing to be closer to his basking lamp, I want to add that the fluorescent UVB lamps are intended to be used within 12 inches of your cham.
Beyond that distance, the amount of UVB is too low.

I would like to compliment you on the care you have taken to set things up for him, as you must have done quite a bit of reading beforehand because you aren't too far off from the ideal.

Making the changes that Lathis has mentioned will help your cham to be truly comfortable in his new home.

One thing more that I would do is to raise his cage up more so that he is able to be at or above eye level.
This is the way Jackson's prefer to be out in nature and it helps to keep their stress levels lower by being above the reach of predators.

Congrats on getting the most awesome kind of cham :) and follow the advice Lathis has given, as it is truly excellent advice.

In addition to the advice already given , you may not have seen one of the really nice sections of the forum, called Resources.
It's at a tab near the top but here's a link for you to the Jackson's page there https://www.chameleonforums.com/care/caresheets/jacksons/
The resources section also has links to other pages of valuable info that you can refer to to.
Always keep in mind that Jackson's are a montane species, so you need to use supplements less often with them--as Lathis has mentioned.
Montane means they are from mountainous areas, in case you were wondering about that.
 
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