Jackson chameleon not doing well

Trivis77

New Member
Our Jackson chameleon, Sir Camelot, is approx 1 1/2 year old and we’ve had him about 8 months . He’s always been active and seemingly healthy. But now we’ve run into trouble . For about a week he’s been getting weaker and sitting still. His right from foot seems thickened and he’s a bit feeble.
We’ve brought him out several times this week for sunlight and he’s still eating and pooping but reluctant to climb into his favorite drinking plant to drink, so I’m also worried he’s not getting enough hydration. Have given him a missed shower this morning and a couple of days ago, hoping to make up for it.
I’ve posted some pictures where you can see his reluctance to use the arm that must be hurting, so far other limbs seems fine.
I am wondering about his calcium intake, and not feeling great about the gut loading issue, any advice would be helpful. He’s been eating a variety of crickets, wax worms and occasionally cockroaches, super worms etc. we have been dusting them with reptile calcium w D3, but I’m getting mixed messages on how often we should do this.

It’s been hard to find a good veterinarian in the area that specializes in exotics, so I am reluctant to bring him to a doctor .
 

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Calcium with D3 should only be given once a month to Jackson's. He should be getting Phosporus free calcium without D3 3 times a week the rest of the month and a multi vitamin also only once a month.
He could have gout, infection or D3 poisoning depending on how much you have given.
Link to more info https://www.chameleonforums.com/blogs/d3-poisoning.2401/
Either way he will benefit from veterinary care. Look for someone who has treated chameleons before. We may be able to help you find someone in your area.
Edited: corrected link
 
Last edited:
Our Jackson chameleon, Sir Camelot, is approx 1 1/2 year old and we’ve had him about 8 months . He’s always been active and seemingly healthy. But now we’ve run into trouble . For about a week he’s been getting weaker and sitting still. His right from foot seems thickened and he’s a bit feeble.
We’ve brought him out several times this week for sunlight and he’s still eating and pooping but reluctant to climb into his favorite drinking plant to drink, so I’m also worried he’s not getting enough hydration. Have given him a missed shower this morning and a couple of days ago, hoping to make up for it.
I’ve posted some pictures where you can see his reluctance to use the arm that must be hurting, so far other limbs seems fine.
I am wondering about his calcium intake, and not feeling great about the gut loading issue, any advice would be helpful. He’s been eating a variety of crickets, wax worms and occasionally cockroaches, super worms etc. we have been dusting them with reptile calcium w D3, but I’m getting mixed messages on how often we should do this.

It’s been hard to find a good veterinarian in the area that specializes in exotics, so I am reluctant to bring him to a doctor .
do you have a picture of him where you bought him? day first pictures? do you know if he is a wc or cb and have you test for parasites?
 
fill this up
Chameleon Info:
  • Your Chameleon - The species, sex, and age of your chameleon. How long has it been in your care?
  • Handling - How often do you handle your chameleon?
  • Feeding - What are you feeding your cham? What amount? What is the schedule? How are you gut-loading your feeders?
  • Supplements - What brand and type of calcium and vitamin products are you dusting your feeders with and what is the schedule?
  • Watering - What kind of watering technique do you use? How often and how long to you mist? Do you see your chameleon drinking?
  • Fecal Description - Briefly note colors and consistency from recent droppings. Has this chameleon ever been tested for parasites?
  • History - Any previous information about your cham that might be useful to others when trying to help you.

Cage Info:
  • Cage Type - Describe your cage (Glass, Screen, Combo?) What are the dimensions?
  • Lighting - What brand, model, and types of lighting are you using? What is your daily lighting schedule?
  • Temperature - What temp range have you created (cage floor to basking spot)? Lowest overnight temp? How do you measure these temps?
  • Humidity - What are your humidity levels? How are you creating and maintaining these levels? What do you use to measure humidity?
  • Plants - Are you using live plants? If so, what kind?
  • Placement - Where is your cage located? Is it near any fans, air vents, or high traffic areas? At what height is the top of the cage relative to your room floor?
  • Location - Where are you geographically located?

Current Problem - The current problem you are concerned about.

--------------

Please Note:
  1. The more details you provide the better and more accurate help you will receive.
  2. Photos can be very helpful.
 
He still seems the same , is still eating and pooping plus peeing . It looks normal to me. I’ve gotten him a vet appt but not until oct 26, so hopefully he won’t get worse before then . He’s outside in the sun again right now and I’ll be continuing to do that as long as weather is ok. Our cafe is a tall upright screen cage, he eats every day most of the time, usually see him drinking but currently not since he’s not moving much . We’re misting him manually 3-4 times a day, and have water dripping from a cup in a corner where he’s got a plant to catch the drops, and he’ll go there and drink (during shedding he waits for me to spray him w a warmer temp mist).
We don’t generally handle him much and could have gotten him outside more this summer. Trying to make up for that now. Just hope it’s not too late.
He gets up around 7:30/8 am as usual still and goes to sleep around 8:30 pm.
Not dusting our crickets and other food for him w the rep calcium stuff right now as I’m afraid that’s gotten him sick?
 
Calcium with D3 should only be given once a month to Jackson's. He should be getting Phosporus free calcium without D3 3 times a week the rest of the month and a multi vitamin also only once a month.
He could have gout, infection or D3 poisoning depending on how much you have given.
Link to more info https://www.chameleonforums.com/blogs/d3-poisoning.2401/
Either way he will benefit from veterinary care. Look for someone who has treated chameleons before. We may be able to help you find someone in your area.
Edited: corrected link
Hi I’m taking him to a vet today , what would the signs of D3 poisoning be in your opinion ?
 
Hi I’m taking him to a vet today , what would the signs of D3 poisoning be in your opinion ?

D3 poisoning xan cause renal failure and this can cause gout
Very likely, this hapoened

Plus
What temoeratires day, nihht and. Asking śot dl yoj jave?
Hlw dl yoj jydrate and keep humidity
Levels?
 
D3 poisoning xan cause renal failure and this can cause gout
Very likely, this hapoened

Plus
What temoeratires day, nihht and. Asking śot dl yoj jave?
Hlw dl yoj jydrate and keep humidity
Levels?
I think Petr’s on to something: note the swelling at the ankle.
 
Look, a vet visit is probably in order, but that front right ankle smacks of gout. Note that in two of the pictures, he is putting no weight on it.
 
Right he’s not, and very reluctant to move much compared to when he was healthy. A vet looked at him today and thought it was MBD. Didn’t have calcium and other meds to give him. So recommended exotic vet clinics very far away. I know we won’t spend 400$ on xrays and meds, plus driving 4 hours, so I think I have to give it a try getting him healthy myself . Any advice on best calcium product for him, with no D3? And any experience in whether a seemingly new powersun UV 100 watt might not provide what it says? Wondering if that’s been contributing to this disease ?
 
I’m also worried it’s not warm enough in our cage, or humid enough. Daytime temp overall in cage is 72 degrees, but more like 80 in his basking spot. Nighttime 65. Humidity ranges depending on when we mist, we don’t have an automatic. 55 % humidity, goes up when we mist...
 
So
Right he’s not, and very reluctant to move much compared to when he was healthy. A vet looked at him today and thought it was MBD. Didn’t have calcium and other meds to give him. So recommended exotic vet clinics very far away. I know we won’t spend 400$ on xrays and meds, plus driving 4 hours, so I think I have to give it a try getting him healthy myself . Any advice on best calcium product for him, with no D3? And any experience in whether a seemingly new powersun UV 100 watt might not provide what it says? Wondering if that’s been contributing to this disease ?
Here’s what I would do. Stop using any d3 whatsoever. Get a linear t5 ho fluorescent uvb bulb. I always use higher uvb for my Jackson’s, but a 5.0 or 6% will also work. Just make sure your basking branch is within 6-8” of the bulb. Here’s how I supplement all my chams, including all my Jackson’s (including newborns). I use earthpro A, earthpro calcium pro mg, bee pollen and pure calcium carbonate. Here’s the ratio I find helpful: 10 parts earth pro a; 1 part earthpro calcium pro mg; 1 part bee pollen; 3 part pure calcium carbonate.

I also feed my feeder insects a very rich diet. However, if gout is your problem, I’d go easy on the high protein feeders, anduse more heavy water feeders such as hornworms. That’s not to say that you should feed hornworms all the time, but if it were me, I’d probably feed crickets one day, then hornworms, then silkworms, then hornworms, then superworms, then hornworms...rinse and repeat.
 
I’m also worried it’s not warm enough in our cage, or humid enough. Daytime temp overall in cage is 72 degrees, but more like 80 in his basking spot. Nighttime 65. Humidity ranges depending on when we mist, we don’t have an automatic. 55 % humidity, goes up when we mist...
Your temps, especially at night, are too high. (Although, I should add a caveat that Hawaiian xantholophus might differ slighty). Please drop your xanth into the 50s at night, and keep you daytime temps where they are. IMO, daytime humidity is less crucial than getting your nightime humidity numbers close to 100%.

try to stay away from super high protein food items, and try to avoid feeding your feeders high protein diets.
 
Your temps, especially at night, are too high. (Although, I should add a caveat that Hawaiian xantholophus might differ slighty). Please drop your xanth into the 50s at night, and keep you daytime temps where they are. IMO, daytime humidity is less crucial than getting your nightime humidity numbers close to 100%.

try to stay away from super high protein food items, and try to avoid feeding your feeders high protein diets.
This was all very helpful. We will do our best to follow your advice, you sound like you’ve got this down.
 
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