Is this normal behavior? any tips?

Ag.parks

Member
So I've had my female veiled for a little over a month now and recently I feel that she can be a bit more skittish when I'm around her. I used to be able to hand feed her but now she doesn't accept anything from my hand, and it takes her forever to eat something from a cup, sometimes she even refuses to eat from the cup (she would accept crickets pretty quickly before). I've finally been able to handle her recently and it was actually on accident, I was putting in a new branch in her cage and she got so scared of the branch that she climbed onto my arm and let me handle her! I let her roam a little bit and put her back in her cage after about an hour (I was so excited). Her colors were bright green and she didn't seem super stressed or anything that first time. Recently though I had to take her to the vet (and I know this is terrible but I didn't want to grab her) so the only way to get her out of her cage was to shake the leaves around in it so she could climb on my arm again. The vet said that she is clear of parasites and that she is one of the healthiest chameleons that have come in. I feel that I've kind of messed my chances up on gaining her trust because now she seems like she hates me!:( I've tried going back and hand feeding her superworms and even mealworms but she won't accept them! What should I do?

Some info : Around 5-6 months old. Female. Veiled. 16"x16"x30" screen cage. Calcium w/o d3 two times a week. Eats mostly crickets and superworms. Basking spot is around 80-82 degrees Fahrenheit. Humidity is 50-60%. Hand mist 3 times a day. Last fecal and checkup was about a week ago and she does not have parasites.
 

Syreptyon

Chameleon Enthusiast
  1. This is a common change of behavior as they get older, but shaking the cage definitely broke some of the trust you built. Especially for only having her a month. You will likely have to start from scratch.
  2. Those bright colors ARE her stress colors. They look pretty to the human eye, but are actually a sign of stress and stimuli
  3. Gonna need to upgrade that cage size soon
  4. Superworms should only be used very sparingly as treats
  5. You are going to overdose her on vitamin D3. You should only use D3 twice a month, not twice a week.
What other supplements are you using? I hope that isn't the only one

Edit: looking back at your previous posts, you have been given this information before... You really need to read carefully and make these changes immediately or your chameleon will die sooner rather than later.
 

Ag.parks

Member
  1. This is a common change of behavior as they get older, but shaking the cage definitely broke some of the trust you built. Especially for only having her a month. You will likely have to start from scratch.
  2. Those bright colors ARE her stress colors. They look pretty to the human eye, but are actually a sign of stress and stimuli
  3. Gonna need to upgrade that cage size soon
  4. Superworms should only be used very sparingly as treats
  5. You are going to overdose her on vitamin D3. You should only use D3 twice a month, not twice a week.
What other supplements are you using? I hope that isn't the only one
The supplements twice a week I use are without d3, I dust the crickets with it. I meant to put that. I give her d3 twice a month. those are my supplements.
 

Syreptyon

Chameleon Enthusiast
The supplements twice a week I use are without d3, I dust the crickets with it. I meant to put that. I give her d3 twice a month. those are my supplements.

Ah, totally misread the D3 part, sorry. However, you will still kill her with that schedule. You need to use calcium without D3 at every single other feeding. And a multivitamin twice a month as well. Better yet, replace all those supplements with Repashy Lo D and use that every day, like Brody told you in a previous thread.

Please, please go back and read advice from previous threads. Have you changed your lighting yet? Upgraded the cage (or at least its interior)?
 

Ag.parks

Member
Ah, totally misread the D3 part, sorry. However, you will still kill her with that schedule. You need to use calcium without D3 at every single other feeding. And a multivitamin twice a month as well. Better yet, replace all those supplements with Repashy Lo D and use that every day, like Brody told you in a previous thread.

Please, please go back and read advice from previous threads. Have you changed your lighting yet? Upgraded the cage (or at least its interior)?
I will. And yes I have upgraded. I added more plants and horizontal branches, etc. Lighting as well.
 

Graves923

Chameleon Enthusiast
Definitely adjust the supplements as stated.

Remember that veiled are known to be territorial and defensive. Any little thing you do that scares or stresses the chameleon out could ruin any progress. Slowly build back up to hand feeding. Take things slow and only if the chameleon is willing.
 

MissSkittles

Chameleon Enthusiast
I too had to violate what little trust I had built up with my female veiled in order to take her for a vet visit. :( It’s just going to take time to rebuild. Try offering more variety with her feeders. Mine loves silkworms, BSFL and discoid roaches. I won’t touch a roach but the silkies are cute and perfect for hand feeding. Correct all your husbandry as previously advised and then give your girl however long she needs to trust you again.
 
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