Yes, you are going to need a calcium without d3, a multivitamin without d3, and calcium with d3. You schedule will be calcium without d3 every day, your multivitamin without d3 once every other week, and your calcium with d3 once every other week. Alternate.
You will also want some sort of bushy live plant in there, ( I see you do have small pothos already) in my opinion. What kind of chameleon are you getting?
I would remove the substrate, too.
You will need more horizontal Branches and perches.
For your lights, you will want a 5.0 t5ho reptisun bulb (or the Arcadia 6% t5ho). The highest branches in the cage should be around 6 inches away. Then, you will want to raise your uvb about 4-6 inches off the top of the screen, so you'll get a total of 10-12 inches distance from your uvb, to the highest branch.. Raise the heat light a few inches off the screen as well, to prevent burns.
This will give the required distance from branch to uvb, and prevent burns from the heat light. Normally we would set the uvb on the screen and raise the basking bulb up off the screen just a tad (to prevent burns if they screen climb), but since you cage is small we want as much room for branches as possible.
I dont have much experience on drainage, for a glass cage ( I use screen). Perhaps someone else can chime in. Since you wont have the substrate in there, maybe you'll be able to wipe out extra water.
You'll want to mist for 2-3 minutes, in the morning, and then in the evening, for a glass cage. For a screen cage you would want to mist for 2-3 minutes a couple times a day. And then run a dripper throughout the day (poke a teeny tiny hole in the bottom of a water bottle or container, so you have a drip rate of 1-2 drips per second, and set on the top of the cage). Make sure you have a little container to catch the drips, or put a plant underneath so you water the plant while dripping. Make sure the drips are falling onto leaves or branches so then the chameleon can drink off of those surfaces.
For feeding you will want to give your baby pretty much as many small feeders as it will eat per day, normally around 15-20. Cricket and roaches are good options, but you can also include silkworms, hornworms, BSFL, etc. I will post a food sheet at the bottom of my post. Dust your feeders lightly with that days supplements, they shouldn't look like powder donuts.
I would also contain your feeders in a feeding cup instead of just throwing them in. This way the baby can find its food easily. I just secure a deli cup to the branch slightly below the basking spot, so then the chameleon can look down inside of the cup and eat its food.
For gut loading your feeders, you will want to use lots of leafy greens, veggies, and fruits. Its also recommended to include some sort of commercial gutload, such as cricket crack or Bug Burger. I will post a gutloading sheet at the bottom.
Make sure you are buying your chameleon from a reputable breeder, not a petstore. If you need help finding a good breeder let me know.
The two most common chameleons are vields and panther chameleons. For panther chameleons humidity should be around 50-70 during the day, and 90-100 at night.
For veiled's humidity should be 30-40 during the day, and 80-100 at night. Nighttime humidity can be achieved by using the fogger throughout the night. Make sure not to use it during the day, though.
Temps should be around 75 for the ambient, and around 82-84 at the basking spot (for both panther and veiled babies.. as they age the basking spot temperatures will go up). Temps should be around 65 at night, but shouldn't drop below 55.
Fecal matter should be brown with a small white urate attached. No mucus or runny fecal matter should be present in a normal poop.
I thin I covered everything you need to know.. If I didn't I will add it on.
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Before you get any chameleon from anywhere, you should really learn and get husbandry basics down and then set up your enclosure. 
