Introduction of newbie and presentation of current habitat: Pics and walloftext

Feeding: Small crickets from the pet store
Size: she is around 1 1/3 to 1/2 inches!

The other issue i'm having is the petstore sold my gf the light enclosure and the bulb.
But the bulb is longer than the enclosure and causes the light to rock on the screen!

So i had to use their mount but it cause me to skoot the screen over and leave a tiny bit of the top of the terrarium exposed!

You don't want that light anyway.
Take it back and get a linear tube fluorescent.
Pssh is right, 2.0 will work but a screw in coiled bulb is not a good idea for this animal.

-Brad
 
You don't want that light anyway.
Take it back and get a linear tube fluorescent.
Pssh is right, 2.0 will work but a screw in coiled bulb is not a good idea for this animal.

-Brad
Brad,
OK! Its going back tomorrow.
Would you then personally recommend a 2.0 or a 5.0 linear UVB bulb?

Also we were sold the ReptoCal for 16.99. It has vitamid d3. Should i get something else? Do you have any preferences?
ReptoCal_.jpg




Is it ok to handle these guys? Is it encouraged?
Thanks again!
 
I've read that the mid seventies is just fine but you want to keep it below 80 in several places. Pygmies are true chameleons? I've heard them called false chameleons before. Is that incorrect? I've also read that they do not need a UVB light many times. They've always said because they live on the forest floor.

I'm going off of things that I have read in several different places, if I'm wrong at least be nice about it. I don't just go spouting stuff willy nilly, I Have actually done research you know. I don't need to keep them to do research.

If they are not chameleons ... what are they? I am familiar with the term "false chameleon" not really sure why this is used in regard to pygmies.

The forest floor is not a cave. Sunlight reaches it and these animals are more arboreal than your research may lead you to believe. They seek out sunlight and bask. This is one of the things you learn when you keep them.

This research at some point would require you to keep or work closely with them ... otherwise you're just regurgitating stuff you've "read in several different places".

-Brad
 
Brad,
OK! Its going back tomorrow.
Would you then personally recommend a 2.0 or a 5.0 linear UVB bulb?

Also we were sold the ReptoCal for 16.99. It has vitamid d3. Should i get something else? Do you have any preferences?
ReptoCal_.jpg




Is it ok to handle these guys? Is it encouraged?
Thanks again!

Don't use a supplement until you can find calcium powder with nothing else in it ... no D3, etc.
2.0 or 5.0 is fine ... handling is not.
This species is particularly sensitive and I will bet that this animal (did it come from the pet store?) is wild caught.

-Brad
 
How cute are they?!?!

I have nothing to offer but admiration and ***Squeeee** they are so cute...

Have loads of fun with them!
 
Don't use a supplement until you can find calcium powder with nothing else in it ... no D3, etc.
2.0 or 5.0 is fine ... handling is not.
This species is particularly sensitive and I will bet that this animal (did it come from the pet store?) is wild caught.

-Brad
Brad,
Yes, she is from the petstore. I know better than that with animails that I purchase, but she was a surprise gift :D

I will look for the appropriate suppliment, thank you.

I am a bit sad that you cannot handle them that much. She seems love climbing on my hands :(
 
If I were to keep them then I would still be coming across this same information and would be keeping them according to this information. I can understand if I were offering more complex information, but this isn't information that I could have only gotten through experience (if it were then I would hope that my research on their habitat would have been good enough that I could keep them alive and healthy. Fortunately information is readily available.)

I've read several threads on here where keepers say they don't need UVB and that they have pygmies that live long healthy lives without UVB. I guess it would be best to be cautious and use UVB, but again, I haven't seen anything that says they need UVB. Maybe I haven't looked into it far enough. Do you recommend by reading about the whole UVB thing?
 
Please minimal handling-I actually never handle mine unless they are in need of a thorough cage cleaning (almost never) or for an inspection of the animal to check for things like mouth rot or eye issues or skin problems(of which in 3 years of pyg keeping I have only had one issue with mouth rot). They DO NOT like being handled, and it stresses them. You may like handling them, but she does not enjoy it. They will stress and die quickly. Turn off the coil bulb immediatley, and no light or heat at night. Low 70's is perfect. Unlike Brad, who is also very sucessful with breeding and keeping these guys, I stopped using direct UVB years ago. Mine are raised on the same table with baby Veileds and Panthers, so they do get ambient UVB and maybe a tiny bit of ambient basking heat. As stated, you need to get some vertical climbing space. Pothos is a great vine type plant that will give your little one some good climbing surface. If you go to my website listed in my signature you can see how I built a 10 gallon tank into a pyg enclosure.
 
If I were to keep them then I would still be coming across this same information and would be keeping them according to this information. I can understand if I were offering more complex information, but this isn't information that I could have only gotten through experience (if it were then I would hope that my research on their habitat would have been good enough that I could keep them alive and healthy. Fortunately information is readily available.)

I've read several threads on here where keepers say they don't need UVB and that they have pygmies that live long healthy lives without UVB. I guess it would be best to be cautious and use UVB, but again, I haven't seen anything that says they need UVB. Maybe I haven't looked into it far enough. Do you recommend by reading about the whole UVB thing?

Kara,

Who has said they don't need UVB?
Please link me to these threads.
Tom Routhouska, who wrote the articles for the e-zine uses UVB, Juli uses UVB (although not directly), Chris Anderson provides them with UVB ....

-Brad
 
Brad-I do use it as stated-I am sure the ambient from the 5.0's is more than a direct 2.0.

I will also add after reviewing pics-you need to get rid of all of that substrate IMO. That stuff holds too much moisture. Get rid of the towel and the water dish. That substrate will also make it impossible to find little crickets. I mist pygs twice daily-just like everyone else i keep. I also keep many, many pygs in simplified plastic tote like containers with just Bed-a-Beast (coconut fiber) on the bottom.
 
Learning more and more by the minute!
The only reason i left the towel in there was because I didn't have a mister tonight and wanted to at least attempt to increase the humidity level. Is it dangerous to her well being? Should i remove it instantly?

I understand the handling concerns and will respectfully and intelligently heed the warnings. Here is a blog entry that I found helped me see the issues clearly:
http://chamworld.blogspot.com/2008/01/handling-your-chameleon.html

Julirs.
I think I will try the substrate as I live in a relatively dry area and can probably use all the help I can get to keep the humidity level up.

I was totally amazed to watch this beautiful but slow cham methodically hunt down 3 crickets and WHACK! hit them with her tongue. Some people mention removing the animal and placing it in a feeding "cell" with the days meal. I think I would rather her hunt.

How long do crickets live? I've been reading about gutloading. Is spinach ok for chams?

Also, as i mentioned earlier, she actually walked up to the water bowl and drank for a good bit. Should i still remove the shallow bowl?
 
She really drank from the water bowl??? Are you sure? I have heard of Veileds and Panthers (rarely) that will do this but I have not heard of it in Pygs. Make sure water is not deep enough that she could drown.

The eating part is excellent-and I agree-I let them hunt!

Spinach is a no-no. It actually has a composition that aids in blocking calcium absorbtion-so other dark leafy greens such as Kale, Endive, Collards, and things such as sweet potatoes, some carrots, etc. are good gut loads.
 
She really drank from the water bowl??? Are you sure? I have heard of Veileds and Panthers (rarely) that will do this but I have not heard of it in Pygs. Make sure water is not deep enough that she could drown.

The eating part is excellent-and I agree-I let them hunt!

Spinach is a no-no. It actually has a composition that aids in blocking calcium absorbtion-so other dark leafy greens such as Kale, Endive, Collards, and things such as sweet potatoes, some carrots, etc. are good gut loads.

Ok great. I will keep hunting for gut loaders. Here are the things that i usually have in my fridge.

Tomatoes
Red onions
spinach (that one is out :p )
Apples


SHE DEFINITELY was drinking from the bowl. I was actually stunned. She had just eaten a cricket and while on the hunt had discovered the bowl. came back to it and just dipped her head in it (it's very shallow). Then she sat there for possibly 3-4 minutes and occasionally opened her mouth and allowed the water to rush in her mouth. As she was crawling away she also was opening and kind of licking her lips.

Question: Sometimes i cover my bird when everyone goes to sleep so that nothing wakes him. Should i be covering the aquarium. Or at least putting a piece of paper to block light from the front?
 
This profile says not to use UVB....but I have always used it and as long as they can move out of it, I doubt that it will do any harm...
http://adcham.com/html/taxonomy/species/r-brevicaudatus.html

For gutloading crickets...I use a wide assortment of greens (dandelions, kale, collards, endive, escarole, mustard greens, etc.) and veggies (carrots, squash, sweet potato, sweet red pepper, celery leaves, zucchini, etc.).

Since many of the insects have a poor ratio of calcium to phosphorus its important to dust the insects at most feedings with a phos.-free calcium powder.

Since they should produce D3 from their exposure to UVB, I only dust lightly twice a month. D3 from supplements builds up in the system and leads to problems.

I also dust lightly twice a month with a vitamin powder that has a beta carotene source of vitamin A. Beta carotene (prOformed) sources of vitamin A can not build up in the system like prEformed sources can. Excess prEformed vitamin A may interfere with the D3 and push a chameleon towards MBD.

Calcium, D3, vitamin A and phos. are all important players in bone health and need to be in balance. You need to look at the supplements, what you feed to the insects and what you feed to the chameleons when balancing them.

Look at the Reptocal...it may have prEformed vitamin A in it (such as acetate, palmitate).

A BIG WORD OF WARNING...these chameleons can play dead very effectively when startled or handled. People have even thrown away the bodies thinking they are dead only to have them get up and walk away after.

These are adorable but short-lived little chameleons...I hope you enjoy it!
 
SHE DEFINITELY was drinking from the bowl. I was actually stunned. She had just eaten a cricket and while on the hunt had discovered the bowl. came back to it and just dipped her head in it (it's very shallow). Then she sat there for possibly 3-4 minutes and occasionally opened her mouth and allowed the water to rush in her mouth. As she was crawling away she also was opening and kind of licking her lips.

Chameleons will drink water that pools on leaves, so that's probably why they sometimes will drink out of a shallow dish like that. Especially if you drip water into it and they see the motion. There's a big leaf on the vine in my baby jackson's tank and it pools a lot of water, so whenever I spray it and he sees water drip onto it, he runs to it and drinks from it like a little dish. I wouldn't use that dish permanently though because they get dirty so fast. Your little one will like to drink off leaves more when you get some plants in there because that's more natural :)
 
dmaizer asked..."i can have them next to a window? "...in a cool/cold climate it will encourage fungal infections and URI's....so I don't recommend having the cage near the window. Also, the UVB from the sun won't pass through the glass...if that's what you were thinking!
 
Since many of the insects have a poor ratio of calcium to phosphorus its important to dust the insects at most feedings with a phos.-free calcium powder.

Since they should produce D3 from their exposure to UVB, I only dust lightly twice a month. D3 from supplements builds up in the system and leads to problems.

I also dust lightly twice a month with a vitamin powder that has a beta carotene source of vitamin A. Beta carotene (prOformed) sources of vitamin A can not build up in the system like prEformed sources can. Excess prEformed vitamin A may interfere with the D3 and push a chameleon towards MBD.

Calcium, D3, vitamin A and phos. are all important players in bone health and need to be in balance. You need to look at the supplements, what you feed to the insects and what you feed to the chameleons when balancing them.

Somewhere on this forum I read that dusting for pygmies was fine once per week, so in a month alternating with a vit powder, calcium with D3, and the other 2 times with calcium with no D3. That's the schedule I was using and I was told it was correct. Anybody?
 
dmaizer asked..."i can have them next to a window? "...in a cool/cold climate it will encourage fungal infections and URI's....so I don't recommend having the cage near the window. Also, the UVB from the sun won't pass through the glass...if that's what you were thinking!

but it will pass for the top of it, and its about a foot away, why would it be bad next to a window. the temp gun is reading above 62 F:confused:
 
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