Its great that you like to study a species and learn about it...I applaud you for that...but its sad that you are not worried about the chameleons' well-being but instead want to learn from mistakes you might make that you could avoid along the way rather than putting your energies into bettering their captive existance.
You said..."I've seen posts on here from people who clearly havent got even the right enclosures for their chams get advice when asked question"...and the advice given is/was help the people do the best they can to help the chameleon live a long healthy life...which is the advice you've been offered on here.
You said..."It's the excitement of trial and error learning and growing until I've mastered the animal"...IMHO breeding an animal and having babies from it once may prove that one is on the right track to good husbandry but breeding to multiple generations, having them live long and healthy lives shows that one has mastered it. To me that's the thrill!
If you want to do something in the meantime...perhaps you could study follicular stasis, dystocia, eye issues, MBD and see if you can't find out how to prevent them to truly improve the longevity of chameleons. If you can't wait a few months for the chameleons to be old enough to mate, then how are you going to wait 7+ months for the eggs to hatch?
If you want so desperately to breed, then this is how you do it...but if they were mine I would wait and in the meantime try to study chameleons further to ensure that you will eventually master it. Show the female to the male by holding her outside the male's cage. Watch their reactions. This ensures that they can't hurt each other until you can determine if they are in a receptive "mode" to each other.
If the female is calm, stays calm colors, does not inflate her body, moves slowly away from the male, hugs the branches...then she is receptive.
If she gapes, hisses, lunges at the male, rocks back and forth, takes on dark background colors, etc. then she is non-receptive/gravid and should be put back in her own cage.
If the male coils and uncoils his tail, inflates his body, raises on hand up near his chin, hisses, etc. then he does not recognize the female as a receptive female....and the female should be put back in her cage.
If he approaches her with his bright colors on and does not act as above and the female acts receptively you can try to put the two together....but watch for any sudden negative (non-receptive) changes.
When the female takes on the dark background colors and non-receptive actions, she should be removed from the cage.
Have you thought of the possible consequences of breeding them too young?
