Husbandry Advice & Review

[Kballard]

Chameleon Info:

• Your Chameleon - Veiled, Male, approx 2.5 years - He has been in my care for a year.
• Handling - 1-2x a week, for very short periods
• Feeding - primary: Crickets dusted with calcium at each feeding ; dusted with D3 2x a month (approx 3-4 at each feeding) secondary: giant mealworms additional: greens - I free feed him, but at each feeding I typically hand feed him at least 1-2 insects at a time.
• Supplements - Zoo Med Repti Calcium without D3 at every feeding (every other day) ; Zoo Med Reptivite with D3 2x a month
• Watering - I mist the leaves in his cage 4x a day for around 2 minutes each session (about 50% of the time he will drink from the spray bottle as well) - I just ordered an automatic mister to add to his enclosure.
• Fecal Description - Solid, and overall white in color
• History - He was given to me by a co-worker who no longer wanted him. To her knowledge there were no health issues at any point.

Cage Info:

• Cage Type - Screen enclosure 2ft wide x 2ft long x 4ft high
• Lighting - This is the part I'm the most confused by, as I've read and been told multiple "ideal" scenarios. Per my vet this is his current set up: 1) Zoo Med ReptiCare Ceramic Heat Emitter heat (without light) - kept on 24/7 in the corner of his cage. 2.) Zoo Med ReptiSun® 10.0 High Output UVB Fluorescent Bulb 17 Watts, 24-Inch ( on 12 hours a day - off at night)
• Temperature - I have the REPTI ZOO Reptile Terrarium Thermometer Hygrometer however, I also use a temperature gun to test different areas of his cage. Basking area - I have a hard time keeping this area as hot as it should be. This has been averaging around 80 degrees (will be replacing bulb) - the rest of his cage stays at around 72.
• Humidity - Reptile Zoo reptile terrarium thermometer/hydrometer - the average humidity in his cage is 50%
• Plants - His plants are artificial, but I am open to incorporating live if there is an advantage to this.
• Placement - His cage is 4ft tall and it is placed about a foot off the floor. He is in the most quiet spot in our house, about 2 feet away from the nearest window.
• Location - Southwest Florida

Current Problem - I'm most concerned with having the correct lighting/heating, I could also use some guidance on ideal diet/cadence/insects. I do not hold him often, as I've been advised repeatedly that they do not enjoy it and will only cause stress. I also feel guilty as though I'm neglecting him, so could use some insight on this as well.

Thank you!

 

[MissSkittles]

Hi. I’ll go thru your husbandry in full. Just give me a bit of time.

 

[MissSkittles]

Chameleon Info:

• Your Chameleon - Veiled, Male, approx 2.5 years - He has been in my care for a year.
• Handling - 1-2x a week, for very short periods
• Feeding - primary: Crickets dusted with calcium at each feeding ; dusted with D3 2x a month (approx 3-4 at each feeding) secondary: giant mealworms additional: greens - I free feed him, but at each feeding I typically hand feed him at least 1-2 insects at a time. You could definitely improve on his diet. Graphics below. While we can’t have dubia, we can have discoid roaches which are quite healthy for our chams. http://www.lindasgonebuggie.com/ is a good source for discoids. Making sure to keep your feeder bugs well fed is also important. Give the greens to your feeders along with other fresh produce. Even though veileds will eat greens and things, they have no need for them.
• Supplements - Zoo Med Repti Calcium without D3 at every feeding (every other day) ; Zoo Med Reptivite with D3 2x a month Perfect
• Watering - I mist the leaves in his cage 4x a day for around 2 minutes each session (about 50% of the time he will drink from the spray bottle as well) - I just ordered an automatic mister to add to his enclosure. Four times a day is about one too many, but is ok.
• Fecal Description - Solid, and overall white in color
• History - He was given to me by a co-worker who no longer wanted him. To her knowledge there were no health issues at any point.

Cage Info:

• Cage Type - Screen enclosure 2ft wide x 2ft long x 4ft high Good
• Lighting - This is the part I'm the most confused by, as I've read and been told multiple "ideal" scenarios. Per my vet this is his current set up: 1) Zoo Med ReptiCare Ceramic Heat Emitter heat No. They are attracted to the brightest light to bask. No heat at night. They need a cool down time. (without light) - kept on 24/7 in the corner of his cage. 2.) Zoo Med ReptiSun® 10.0 High Output UVB Fluorescent Bulb 17 Watts, 24-Inch ( on 12 hours a day - off at night) Too strong. You need either a 5.0 or 6% uvb. Then the distance between basking area and lights should be 8-9” to get the correct uvb level. With the 10.0 bulb, there needs to be about 11-12” distance between lights and basking area. Have you been changing your bulb at least yearly or preferably every 6 months?
• Temperature - I have the REPTI ZOO Reptile Terrarium Thermometer Hygrometer however, I also use a temperature gun to test different areas of his cage. Basking area - I have a hard time keeping this area as hot as it should be. This has been averaging around 80 degrees (will be replacing bulb) - the rest of his cage stays at around 72. For an adult male veiled, ideal basking temp would be around 85. Get rid of the heat emitter and try a 60w or 75w incandescent bulb.
• Humidity - Reptile Zoo reptile terrarium thermometer/hydrometer - the average humidity in his cage is 50% Ideal range for daytime is between 30-50%, so you’re right on the edge of being too high. Having too high humidity when temps are high can increase risks for respiratory infection. Too high humidity can also cause poor shedding, which may or may not be related to his butt problem. Chameleons are dry shedders and too much humidity/moisture makes the shed skin adhere.
• Plants - His plants are artificial, but I am open to incorporating live if there is an advantage to this. There is a huge advantage to having all and only safe live plants. Veileds like to nibble their plants. It only takes one nibble to cause a very serious fecal impaction/bowel obstruction. Live plants are also a huge enrichment for chameleons and one of the few ways we can provide enrichment to them. They help maintain humidity and create pockets of increased humidity if our chams want/need. Plus, they are just nicer in general. If you lapped your drinks off leaves, would you prefer hard plastic or soft real ones?
• Placement - His cage is 4ft tall and it is placed about a foot off the floor. Height equals safety, so the higher you can get his enclosure, the better. He is in the most quiet spot in our house, about 2 feet away from the nearest window.
• Location - Southwest Florida

Current Problem - I'm most concerned with having the correct lighting/heating, I could also use some guidance on ideal diet/cadence/insects. I do not hold him often, as I've been advised repeatedly that they do not enjoy it and will only cause stress. I also feel guilty as though I'm neglecting him, so could use some insight on this as well. Yes, it is true that they do not enjoy being held and it stresses them. However, we do need to create some level of trust with them and comfort on both sides in handling. I try to handle my veileds for even just a minute at least once a week or so - more often as opportunity presents itself. My panthers are used to and accepting of being handled just about daily - they come to me. They are so very different than veileds. Lol How do you feel you are neglecting him?
Thank you!

 

[Kballard]

Hi. I’ll go thru your husbandry in full. Just give me a bit of time.

Thank you for such a thorough analysis! I'm review it now. I Appreciate the help!

 

[Kballard]

Thanks again for your response. These are my takeaways:

• Improve upon his diet in terms of variety (does the frequency / quantity seem sufficient?) (the graphic you provided is extremely helpful)
• Slightly less misting ( I will likely be using the mister with a set timer moving forward - if you have suggestions on timer settings that would be helpful)
• Implement a basking bulb at 65w or 75w and remove the ceramic heat emitter.
• UVB bulb should instead be 5.0 ( I have been replacing bulbs at 6 months)
• I will cut back on spraying to try to reduce the humidity a bit
• Replace false leaves with real ones
• I was torn in feeling neglectful by not holding him, but doing so out of fear that I'd stress him out too much. He does occasionally take food out of my hand, but I have been holding him around twice a week for just a few minutes. So I just want to be sure I'm not over doing it.

Thank you for all your help!

 

[MissSkittles]

if you have suggestions on timer settings that would be helpful)

The duration of two minutes is great. Usually it’s best to mist right before lights go on and off and once at mid day if you like. I choose to do a one minute mid day misting so they have an opportunity for a drink while keeping humidity down a bit.
For plants, nothing beats the humble pothos. I think 4/5 plants in my veiled enclosures now are pothos. Since they do love eating all the leaves, I am always starting new plants from clippings, which is super easy to do. I do like having a large center plant like a schefflera, but those need additional plant lighting. This is a great resource for plants. https://chameleonacademy.com/plants/
Chameleons are the reptile equivalent of fish. They are primarily a hobby animal that is to be admired more than a pet that is handled and interacted with. As long as you are keeping up with feeding, watering and keeping everything clean and safe, you can’t really neglect a cham.