How to control temperature being too hot in the room?

Grayson Payne

Established Member
Hey everyone, so it's pretty hot here in Georgia today and I noticed that Gatsby's basking and ambient temperatures have gone up. This is thanks to my enclosure being in a sunroom with a total of 6 windows and two window doors. My question is, what do you guys recommend to keep the temperatures down during the hot summers we experience here? I was thinking about getting a fan, but I am not sure where to place it. I would assume that I couldn't put it so that the air is flowing inside of his cage, so I was thinking I could put it beside it, in hopes that it will make the room less warm. Thanks!
 

CasqueAbove

Avid Member
Natural temperature fluctuations are fine. There are hotter days and cooler days in the wild.

That said . there are limits. Like if basking is regularly 100.

A simple solution is a fan to circulate air.
 

Grayson Payne

Established Member
His basking spot is reading 84 right now. He is a four month old panther chameleon so. I have raised the basking lamp pretty far up because I have a ceiling mount which I can adjust. The only thing I worried about is his ambient temperature. And I purchased a fan that I have going near the enclosure just not directly into it. Thanks for the help everyone!
 

Beman

Chameleon Enthusiast
Window unit air conditioner to bring down ambient temps... If that is not possible and the ambient temp climbs to the same as your basking temp you need to turn off the basking fixture so it does not get even hotter. This is where a dimming thermostat comes in handy... Attaching this to your basking it will read the temps...If temps climb it dims down or turns off the basking fixture to compensate. This is a great device for those that work and are not able to monitor temps as closely.
 

AmandaS

Chameleon Enthusiast
Window unit air conditioner to bring down ambient temps... If that is not possible and the ambient temp climbs to the same as your basking temp you need to turn off the basking fixture so it does not get even hotter. This is where a dimming thermostat comes in handy... Attaching this to your basking it will read the temps...If temps climb it dims down or turns off the basking fixture to compensate. This is a great device for those that work and are not able to monitor temps as closely.
Just got my herpstat 2 yesterday. I couldnt be more pleased. I no longer have to continuoulsy monitor the temps and manually move the light further away...I think it is better for my chameleon in the long run since the temps do not fluctuate as much.
 

Beman

Chameleon Enthusiast
Just got my herpstat 2 yesterday. I couldnt be more pleased. I no longer have to continuoulsy monitor the temps and manually move the light further away...I think it is better for my chameleon in the long run since the temps do not fluctuate as much.
It is a total game changer huh!!!! I love love love mine! No worry and no stress. So happy you love it!
 

jamest0o0

Chameleon Enthusiast
Natural temperature fluctuations are fine. There are hotter days and cooler days in the wild.

That said . there are limits. Like if basking is regularly 100.

A simple solution is a fan to circulate air.
This.

The thing with basking is, if ambient is already warm enough, they'll just avoid trying to heat up. Higher ambient isn't going to increase the likelihood of burns from a basking spot, only overheating. And if they have proper gradients they should move. Do we think chams will sit in the beating sun on a 90+ degree day?

So anyway, I agree with turning off or dimming the basking simply because it's not necessary if their ambient is already warm enough.

Hope that all makes sense.
 

jamest0o0

Chameleon Enthusiast
Also, with warm temps, compensate with more water from misting(if you haven't already). A person with ambient temps of 80s/90s shouldn't have the same mist schedule as someone with room temp ambient. Ignore the "it's not natural to mist during the day" nonsense unless you want an overheated/dehydrated animal.
 

CasqueAbove

Avid Member
This.

The thing with basking is, if ambient is already warm enough, they'll just avoid trying to heat up. Higher ambient isn't going to increase the likelihood of burns from a basking spot, only overheating. And if they have proper gradients they should move. Do we think chams will sit in the beating sun on a 90+ degree day?

So anyway, I agree with turning off or dimming the basking simply because it's not necessary if their ambient is already warm enough.

Hope that all makes sense.
That was kind of my point. The basking was just an example. It would be an overall temp yes. They could move from basking true, but it still usually represents the highest temp.
 

Grayson Payne

Established Member
Thanks! So I already was thinking about it, but now I think I am going to go for it! What herpstat should I get? I know that the one is one outlet, two is two. But is there other ones you can buy, like different types of herpstat?
 

Beman

Chameleon Enthusiast
Thanks! So I already was thinking about it, but now I think I am going to go for it! What herpstat should I get? I know that the one is one outlet, two is two. But is there other ones you can buy, like different types of herpstat?
So you can get them other places and they may have them in stock... But if you got to this site https://www.spyderrobotics.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=1

It will give you tons of info. Your looking at the Herpstat 1 herpstat 2 etc.... So those with the numbers tell you how many sensors you have with it. The herpstat 1 has 1 probe... The herpstat 2 has two. And the herpstat 6 has six probes.... So it can control 6 cages basking fixture.

If you do not think you will ever get a second cham the herpstat 1 will work fine. :)
 

Grayson Payne

Established Member
So you can get them other places and they may have them in stock... But if you got to this site https://www.spyderrobotics.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=1

It will give you tons of info. Your looking at the Herpstat 1 herpstat 2 etc.... So those with the numbers tell you how many sensors you have with it. The herpstat 1 has 1 probe... The herpstat 2 has two. And the herpstat 6 has six probes.... So it can control 6 cages basking fixture.

If you do not think you will ever get a second cham the herpstat 1 will work fine. :)
Okay, my main concern was the difference between herpstat 1 and herpstat 1 basic. What are your thoughts?
 

Beman

Chameleon Enthusiast
Okay, my main concern was the difference between herpstat 1 and herpstat 1 basic. What are your thoughts?
You would have to look into it more... It has been awhile since I was shoping. But I believe the only difference is that the basic version does not have certain program capabilities like for use with a humidity probe. I do not use that feature with mine though. Great for some species but not for chams.

As long as the basic has the dimming function and night ramping so you don't have to have it hooked up to an external timer then your good.
 
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