Help with husbandry questions

[Jle5116]

Aloha!

We live in Hawaii and recently adopted a female Jackson Chameleon as a pet. We typically see this species on hikes around the island, but got ours from a pet store. We weren’t planning on getting one but while we were there she came to the glass and put her hand up against my daughter’s finger for a few seconds and then lifted both arms up toward us into the air in front of the glass until we took her out. Irony or not, it was quite unusual, and we fell in love with her.

I am new to caring for a reptile and want to ensure we are setting her up for success, and could humbly use some help to fine tune our environment for her and answer a few questions!

Current concerns:
-she sometimes gapes in her enclosure (no noise or mucus) it’s not for very long but I have seen it happen occasionally
-she appears a little grey to me sometimes
-****she occasionally closes her eyes during the daytime and I know that’s not a good sign, sometimes her eyes look squinty (they don’t appear sunken in to me though)****
-she doesn’t move around her enclosure very much, but will move for water or a cricket. I don’t know if her environment is causing this, or if it’s because she’s gravid…

Things you should know:
-we’ve only had her for 2 weeks, and she seems to be at the end of molting (has some left around her head, so I’m not sure if that’s the reason for gaping)
-she was in an enclosure with mostly males, and we think she may be gravid. Is there a way to tell how close to birth she may be if so?

Chameleon Info:

• Your Chameleon - female Jackson Chameleon, she’s been with us for 2 weeks
• Handling - 1-2x/day. We will put her outside on our hibiscus tree to get sunlight occasionally, and will hold her for maybe 5-10 minutes (she doesn’t gape while holding, she is her greenest when she’s held, and always darker in her enclosure, but we still keep handling to a minimum)
• Feeding - we feed her medium sized crickets, she only eats 2-3, so we take any extras out before evening. We gut load the crickets with carrots and sweet potato shavings
• Supplements - unfortunately we were dusting her crickets everyday with Rep-Cal (with vit D3) because that’s what the pet store told us to do. As I researched I learned too much vit d is bad, so for the last two days I’ve been dusting with Repti Calcium (without vit d) instead. Would love recommendations
• Watering - since we live in Hawaii and don’t have AC, it’s very humid in our house during the day. I mist her enclosure and her before I turn her lights on in the morning, and after I turn them off at night, until all the leaves are covered. She seems to really dislike being misted. We have a dripper that drips during the daytime, and I do see her drink off of the leaves occasionally, but sometimes I have to place her in front of the dripping water for her to drink. We catch the water in a cup at the bottom of her enclosure.
• Fecal Description - she has never been tested for parasites. Her poop is oval and solid (but squishy when picked up). Her urate is white. She goes to the bathroom once every morning.
• History - I have no previous information about her. The pet store was shocked that she was so interested in being held when we were there, they said that’s unusual, but they gave me no further information. I’m not even sure how old she is other than what Google estimates based on her length.

Cage Info:

• Cage Type - 18x18x36 full screen cage
• Lighting - i need lighting advice!!! We got our uvb lighting per the pet store’s recommendation and I’m learning that maybe we should have a linear uvb instead. We use a dome uvb light fixture with a 26watt 5.0 uvb bulb. I didn’t know we needed a basking lamp because it’s 80-85 degrees in our house, but i was advised to get one for a temp gradient so we have a mini deep dome fixture with zoo-med daylight blue 100w bulb as of the last few days, but I’ve been told that’s too much and need to know what wattage to get. As of now it sits on the top of the enclosure because they don’t have stands on island and I’m waiting for the stand I ordered to arrive. I turn it on in the morning for her and then turn it off midday because I’ve been nervous it’s too hot.
• Temperature - 80-85 degrees in enclosure, 85-90 near basking light (but I haven’t been keeping it on because that seems too hot). Overnight temperature is around 75.
• Humidity - humidity levels during the day are 60-70%, typically leaning toward 65. At night it is more humid, around 75-80%.
• Plants - yes we have a pathos plant in her enclosure, but I NEED more coverage in the top half of the enclosure and the pathos isn’t growing fast enough for that. I haven’t found another plant that will fit with my pathos and be tall enough, or figured out one that can be secured higher up on the screen yet, would love input.
• Placement - the cage is in our “sun room” aka toy room that gets afternoon sunlight. There are ceiling fans but I keep them on low and was wondering if it would help or hurt her to turn them higher during the day because it does get hot. The windows are always open in this room. It is a high traffic area because our house is tiny, and this room is where my kids play or walk through to go outside. I will say, my kids are very respectful and play calmly. The cage is on a dresser, about 3’ above the ground, and the top of it is about 3’ below the ceiling.
• Location - Hawaii

Thanks for all of your advice! I’ve had some great advice from chameleon owners and want to gather all of the information I can to keep making this a better home for her.

Also… if she’s gravid, tips for babies? Everyone is so discouraging about caring for Jackson babies and I appreciate the honesty but I also need good guidance!

 

[ehdee6]

Hi there,

@JacksJill may be able to give you more information on if she's pregnant. But if you say she was in the same enclosure with males, it's safe to assume she's mated. She looks a bit plump to me.

About the gaping, it's likely the temperature. You need a temperature/hydrometer with probe, like this, to accurately tell. If your ambient temperature is above 77, you won't want to use a basking lamp. It's hard to tell without the probe which strength of basking light to use.

For UVB you 100% need a T5 liner kit. Either a zoomed T5 5.0 (bulbs last 6 months), or an Arcadia 6% (bulbs last a year). The liner kits produce a larger area for your cham to absorb the UVB they need for their body, where as with the dome bulb they have to be RIGHT by the bulb to absorb the UVB.

You're right about the D3, unfortunately quite often the pet store's try to sell things that are unnecessary and wrong. Jackson's only need D3 and multi vitamins once a month. And calcium without additives with every feeding.

Humidity, again, depends on the ambient. Chameleons really don't like to get wet, I'd avoid spraying her directly. Contrary to most advice, most species (including Jacksons) do not absorb water through their skin. It's best to mist, for 2 min, about 30 min before lights off/after on so they have time to drink and clean themselves. During the day you really don't want humidity higher than 60%, that's even a bit high. High heat and humidity are what causes the respiratory infections. You'd run the dripper as you are.

Your cage needs more coverage, as you're aware. I had my Jackson in a large reptibreeze like yours, and he was unhappy. He was constantly screen climbing and hanging from the ceiling. It might be different for females, but he's been noticeably happier in the XL cage and doesn't screen climb anymore. The UVB light needs to be placed on the top, so that they can create a gradient. For the basking light you'll probably need something to lift it off the screen on the top. That will help create a better heat variety and ensure she doesn't burn herself. Chameleon's don't know when they're too hot and will bask until they sadly burn. You can add fake plants to the outside to help create privacy. Once you get your 5T light you'll need to place a basking branch 8" below it. You can use sticks from outside from fruit trees like apple/cherry, oak and arbutus work well too. Just avoid cedar/fir and trees that produce lots of sap.

Two links to read for the best Jackson info are:
https://chameleonacademy.com/jacksons-chameleon-care/

https://www.chameleonforums.com/care/caresheets/jacksons/

Welcome to the wonderful world of being a ChaMOM! She's a pretty little thing. I'm sure more experienced members will chime in. Sorry I don't have the fancy feeder sheets and such saved to share. My Jackson in his cage:

His large reptibreeze set up:

 

[Jle5116]

Thank you so much for the reply! I appreciate all of the advice.

I actually do have that temperature probe but I’m not quite sure how to set it up in the screen cage with all the wires, do you mind showing me a photo of yours hung up?

This may be a silly question, but since I won’t need a basking uva lamp, will she “bask” under the heat of the uvb light? That will suffice?

I found the light you mentioned, will this work? (Attached photo) And can I test it right on top of the screen of the cage?

I also added a dwarf umbrella plant today (photo attached) but she still seems to want to be above everything, and not under the shade of it. Is there a reason for that? We can’t get a bigger enclosure at the moment.

 

[Jle5116]

*can I rest it on top of the screen* sorry, spelling error

 

[Jle5116]

I’m so sorry for the continued questions, but with it being so hot like you mentioned, would it be better to keep the ceiling fans on high and just monitor the humidity to make sure it stays in range?

I reread your message and see that you said to lift the basking light above the top of the enclosure, and I thought you meant the heat lamp. Did you mean the UVB as well?

Thanks so much!

 

[LizardLurkin]

"This may be a silly question, but since I won’t need a basking uva lamp, will she “bask” under the heat of the uvb light? That will suffice?"

She should be attracted to the linear UVB's light source, as it is "the sun" to her.

"would it be better to keep the ceiling fans on high and just monitor the humidity to make sure it stays in range?"

If your ambient temp is too high for the recommended, doing what it takes to cool down the room isn't a bad idea. Monitoring the temps and humidies will really determine how necessary it is. I'm not versed in Jackson's care and their temp and humidity needs, but this site details a lot of their particulars.

"I reread your message and see that you said to lift the basking light above the top of the enclosure, and I thought you meant the heat lamp. Did you mean the UVB as well?"

You can rest it atop the screen only if the little lady does not have the habit of climbing the screen. Lifting the light may be necessary to avoid burns. This image details the placement of your basking branch in the scenario that you do have to lift it, as well as if not.

"I also added a dwarf umbrella plant today (photo attached) but she still seems to want to be above everything, and not under the shade of it. Is there a reason for that? We can’t get a bigger enclosure at the moment."

In nature, they scale the trees to bask. Chameleons tend to like higher areas. I'm sure she'll make use of the shaded areas as she needs it.

I definitely can't get into the baby thing, but I do know this species gives live birth. This may be an informative read and/or listen for you in the meantime.
She is very cute, though. I can see why she spoke to you!

 

[Jle5116]

Th

She should be attracted to the linear UVB's light source, as it is "the sun" to her.

If your ambient temp is too high for the recommended, doing what it takes to cool down the room isn't a bad idea. Monitoring the temps and humidies will really determine how necessary it is. I'm not versed in Jackson's care and their temp and humidity needs, but this site details a lot of their particulars.

You can rest it atop the screen only if the little lady does not have the habit of climbing the screen. Lifting the light may be necessary to avoid burns. This image details the placement of your basking branch in the scenario that you do have to lift it, as well as if not.
View attachment 364901

In nature, they scale the trees to bask. Chameleons tend to like higher areas. I'm sure she'll make use of the shaded areas as she needs it.

I definitely can't get into the baby thing, but I do know this species gives live birth. This may be an informative read and/or listen for you in the meantime.
She is very cute, though. I can see why she spoke to you!

thank you so much!! this is all really good info!! I’m taking everything into account that you’ve both said!

In addition to this, does any of the above info indicate why she may be napping during the day?

 

[ehdee6]

I wrapped the wires around a small flukers bend a branch, or just wrap them along a normal branch. Sorry my chams are tucked in for the night, but I can get better pictures tomorrow. You'll want to hang the basking branch 8" from where the UVB light is hung. Not the heat lamp, the heat lamp should either be beside the UVB, or raised and pointed at the UVB light. This gets a bit scientific, but it basically the 8" brings you into the best UVB range for your cham to absorb their vitamins. In my picture of the large reptibreeze, I had the UVB light hung because of his screen climbing, and trying to make more use of space in the cage. The highest branch was 8" from the UVB light. The heat lamp was hung slightly higher and pointed towards the UVB light. Chams have super sight capabilities and can see UV light, so instinctively will hang out under it.

You want the heat probe under where the heat dome is pointing on the branch that's 8" under the UVB light. Keep in mind the heat will be slightly hotter on their back. If you hold the back of your hand in the basking area and you think it's hot, it is really too hot. Some people hang the humidity probe a few inches lower than the heat one.

If it's too hot to run the heat lamp they'll still hang out under the UVB light.

That combo should work light and kit should work. I've not used that brand of fixture, but know you can fit the Arcadia bulb into it.

Nice umbrella trees! Chameleon in nature spend most their time in tree tops, so will often rather hang out on branches high as possible during the day looking down at their world.

I'd have the fans on so that the hot air is getting pulled up, not blowing down. Jackson's really like it if you can give them cooler nights too. It helps the sleep better.

My solormeter testing a UVB light at 8", where the basking branch is, and probes held with the flukers vine. And the probes in my little goobers large cage wrapped around a branch.

 

[Jle5116]

He is so cute!! And he seems so active! wow, in comparison our girl is definitely either carrying some extra weight or gravid. I don’t have a baseline for what they normally look like!

All of this info on lighting and temps/humidity is GREAT, thank you so much. I pretty much need someone to spell it out for me, and this was perfect

 

[ehdee6]

In addition to this, does any of the above info indicate why she may be napping during the day?

This may be the heat, not the right UVB, too much vitamin D, or a reaction to stress. Chams really need privacy and places to hide. That's why we hang fake plants on the outside and try to put lots of plants in to hide. It's hard to say without having a vet see her, but with making adjustments to your husbandry we can help narrow down the cause.

 

[Jle5116]

I wrapped the wires around a small flukers bend a branch, or just wrap them along a normal branch. Sorry my chams are tucked in for the night, but I can get better pictures tomorrow. You'll want to hang the basking branch 8" from where the UVB light is hung. Not the heat lamp, the heat lamp should either be beside the UVB, or raised and pointed at the UVB light. This gets a bit scientific, but it basically the 8" brings you into the best UVB range for your cham to absorb their vitamins. In my picture of the large reptibreeze, I had the UVB light hung because of his screen climbing, and trying to make more use of space in the cage. The highest branch was 8" from the UVB light. The heat lamp was hung slightly higher and pointed towards the UVB light. Chams have super sight capabilities and can see UV light, so instinctively will hang out under it.

You want the heat probe under where the heat dome is pointing on the branch that's 8" under the UVB light. Keep in mind the heat will be slightly hotter on their back. If you hold the back of your hand in the basking area and you think it's hot, it is really too hot. Some people hang the humidity probe a few inches lower than the heat one.

If it's too hot to run the heat lamp they'll still hang out under the UVB light.

That combo should work light and kit should work. I've not used that brand of fixture, but know you can fit the Arcadia bulb into it.

Nice umbrella trees! Chameleon in nature spend most their time in tree tops, so will often rather hang out on branches high as possible during the day looking down at their world.

I'd have the fans on so that the hot air is getting pulled up, not blowing down. Jackson's really like it if you can give them cooler nights too. It helps the sleep better.

My solormeter testing a UVB light at 8", where the basking branch is, and probes held with the flukers vine. And the probes in my little goobers large cage wrapped around a branch.

View attachment 364902
View attachment 364903
View attachment 364905

When you say to hang the heat lamp above the UVB and point it at UVB, does that help because the light source is being “combined” in one area? Is that the scientific bit you were mentioning? Regardless, this is good to know I would have had no idea to do that. I think for now I’ll take your advice and not use the heat lamp, unless temps change though

 

[Jle5116]

This may be the heat, not the right UVB, too much vitamin D, or a reaction to stress. Chams really need privacy and places to hide. That's why we hang fake plants on the outside and try to put lots of plants in to hide. It's hard to say without having a vet see her, but with making adjustments to your husbandry we can help narrow down the cause.

That makes sense! I do love how you put the fake plants on the outside of his enclosure for privacy, that was a fantastic idea!!

 

[LizardLurkin]

I wrapped the wires around a small flukers bend a branch, or just wrap them along a normal branch. Sorry my chams are tucked in for the night, but I can get better pictures tomorrow. You'll want to hang the basking branch 8" from where the UVB light is hung. Not the heat lamp, the heat lamp should either be beside the UVB, or raised and pointed at the UVB light. This gets a bit scientific, but it basically the 8" brings you into the best UVB range for your cham to absorb their vitamins. In my picture of the large reptibreeze, I had the UVB light hung because of his screen climbing, and trying to make more use of space in the cage. The highest branch was 8" from the UVB light. The heat lamp was hung slightly higher and pointed towards the UVB light. Chams have super sight capabilities and can see UV light, so instinctively will hang out under it.

You want the heat probe under where the heat dome is pointing on the branch that's 8" under the UVB light. Keep in mind the heat will be slightly hotter on their back. If you hold the back of your hand in the basking area and you think it's hot, it is really too hot. Some people hang the humidity probe a few inches lower than the heat one.

If it's too hot to run the heat lamp they'll still hang out under the UVB light.

That combo should work light and kit should work. I've not used that brand of fixture, but know you can fit the Arcadia bulb into it.

Nice umbrella trees! Chameleon in nature spend most their time in tree tops, so will often rather hang out on branches high as possible during the day looking down at their world.

I'd have the fans on so that the hot air is getting pulled up, not blowing down. Jackson's really like it if you can give them cooler nights too. It helps the sleep better.

My solormeter testing a UVB light at 8", where the basking branch is, and probes held with the flukers vine. And the probes in my little goobers large cage wrapped around a branch.

View attachment 364902
View attachment 364903
View attachment 364905

Not to derail, but I very much enjoy your enclosures and your guy is so cute

 

[ehdee6]

Does that help because the light source is being “combined” in one area? Is that the scientific bit you were mentioning? Regardless, this is good to know I would have had no idea to do that. I think for now I’ll take your advice and not use the heat lamp, unless temps change though

The combination part is exactly right, because the chameleon is attracted to the UVB and will spend the most of their time there (8" away from it) we essentially add the heat lamp to help with digestion and converting vitamis to keep them healthy.

Full disclosure that I'm also fairly new to the hobby, and although I've researched a lot other more experienced members may have better advice. I'm more book smart than I am experienced.

 

[JacksJill]

I will go over more of this tomorrow but the 100 watt bulb is too much for a Jackson’s. I use 40-50 watt max. Even then mine are on for an hour or two in the morning and 20 minutes periodically throughout the day.

She looks Gracie and if she was housed with males will likely have live birth of up to 20 babies.

Check out this blog post
my-jacksons-supplement-schedule

 

[JacksJill]

In addition to this, does any of the above info indicate why she may be napping during the day?

Napping during the day is most commonly caused by too much light at night. Do all that you can to darken the room at sunset until sunrise, close the blinds, screen the area around the cage and of course shut off the lights. Illness is another possibility so keep an eye out for other symptoms as you have been. Screening the cage with plants on the outside is an attractive way to accomplish this.

Ceiling fan?- in an area with high humidity air flow is key for respiratory health. Don't make it windy in the room but breezy is good. They tend to retreat into the foliage when it's windy outdoors.

How pregnant is she? Her abdomen looks big to me. Unfortunately they don't have a diaphragm like we do that divides their belly from their lungs so they have the ability to puff all of their body up to look bigger if they want. I still believe she will give birth before too long. The only advanced warning I regularly see is a decrease or lack of appetite a day or two prior to birth. Generally the time between breeding and birth is about three to four months.
without knowing when she was bred I can't be more specific. One breeding can produce 3-4 clutches spaced 3-4 months apart. In the unlikely event that she wasn't bred she will pass slugs, unfertilized ova. Slugs or unfertilized ova and what they look like. She will do this from time to time most of her life if she remains un-bred.

Gaping? Two possibilities heat or shedding. Sometimes when they are about to shed they will stretch their mouths to loosen the skin on their face. Over time you will be able to tell the difference in behaviors. Also they tend to look a little gray prior to shedding. When they are seriously overheated they go pale.

Let me know if I missed anything where you need more information. It looks like you got a lot of good advise already.

 

[ehdee6]

How his probe runs and the lights are setup on the top. The heat (it has a 40w incandescent house light bulb. it turns on at 7am and off at noon as it's summer here and the top of his cage naturally gets to 77+ for the rest of the day), UVB, and plant light in order. His dripper isn't permanently in place, yet. And the black square thing is a USB computer fan you can add to help with air flow. It's pulling the air out, not blowing in.

 

[GrannyK]

I just want to say welcome to the forum!! You have been given great advice already, and your little lady is so so adorable! I hope everything goes well with her.