Well, my first deremensis was a CB - the only CB deremensis I've had. he was very easy, stress free, and problem free.
I will first list how I cared for him THEN, and how I'd care for him NOW(I know a lot more now)
I obtained him at a time when I had a great distrust of UVB bulbs - I raised chameleons without them, and there were not convinvcing studies done at the time, so I did not use them.
So, I used a simple full-spectrum floruscent tube from lowes, fo rhis lighting. I was told by the Kammers that I didn't really even need a heat lamp - so I didn't use one at all. the Kammers also told me that, in their experience, deremensis were not as sensitive to artificial vitamin supplementation as other montanes. I could use a supplementation regiment similar to (and actually, now it's identical to) that of my calyptratus.
So, I had him in a large screen cage, with plastic on the back, sides and 1/3 of the front to keep humidity in. the light was from a small, 18" double tube, and humidity was provided by misting at least daily, usually several times a day. In addition, I bought a $40 ultrasonic cool mist humidifier, a timer, and added some pvc pipe. I set it to mist him a few times a day, and at night, to keep humidity up. I always let him dry out thouroughly in between mistings.
I also ran a drip system for about a half hour every day. He never drank much, as the humidity was nice and high, but I had to water the plants!
I fed him quite a bit. I found him to eat far less than a veiled of the same size. He also grew much slower - which itself makes MBD less likely.
For supplementation, I supplemented lightly, every day to every other day, with minerall with D3. I only dusted a portion of his meal with the powder. I later switched to repcal, and used it the same way.
For vitamins, I used reptivite and herptivite, in very light doses. I usually used herptivite every week - just one or two lightly dusted insects per week - and reptivite every two weeks or so - just to make sure he got vitamin A (it's absent in herptivite).
I never used much of a gut load - just fed the crickets and insects a random assortment of expired produce, and some grains. He ate a lot of silkworms when he was young, too.
All said, he went from a tiny baby, barely able to eat 1/4 inch crickets, to a big, 13-14" adult, in around 18 months, with zero UVB, and no heat lamp. His bones were rock solid - he'd jumped and landed on solid floors many times, and never so much as chipped a horn.
The only thing I'd change (from how I did it then) is the UVB light. UVB light helps reduce the amount of artificial D3 you need to administer, which reduces the guesswork you need to do. Plus, it has a drastic effect on their behavior, color and mood. Chameleons act more "naturally" when under UVB light.
You don't have to be afraid of supplementations, as long as you go very very easy with them. Give a good gutload, and use good zoomed bulbs, and the need for artificial D3 will be very low. The D3 requirements for a veiled, speed-grown to mature in 6 months is far greater than a deremensis taking 18-14 months to reach full size - so relax!
