camimom
New Member
yes. sometimes, fi a female stresses, she can pass slugs. it happens.
how many did she have?
Help! Our Chameleon is laying Brown Clear Eggs?
- Thread starter Stafford
- Start date
yes. sometimes, fi a female stresses, she can pass slugs. it happens.
how many did she have?
camimom
New Member
not rounded out or pointed enough for a veiled. and of course, no casque. I am 100% sure shes not a veiled.
go to flchams.com
click jacksons, and look at the female pic of this species Jacksons Chameleon (Chamaeleo (Trioceros) jacksonii xantholophus)
i think it might be that.
Solid Snake
Avid Member
Its a female Xanthopholus. Dropping "slugs" is rare, but not abnormal. On your site it satates that the animal likes a "toasty" enviroment. This is in fact the opposite of the truth. I am assuming that you are keeping it as a vieled chameleon. You will need to change the care for this animal as it is a montane species. Please fill out this form and we can get you on track with this animal. That way if and when it is adopted, you can give that person the proper care info. I wish I was in MT.
Chameleon Info:
Your Chameleon - The species, sex, and age of your chameleon. How long has it been in your care?
Handling - How often do you handle your chameleon?
Feeding - What are you feeding your cham? What amount? What is the schedule? How are you gut-loading your feeders?
Supplements - What brand and type of calcium and vitamin products are you dusting your feeders with and what is the schedule?
Watering - What kind of watering technique do you use? How often and how long to you mist? Do you see your chameleon drinking?
Fecal Description - Briefly note colors and consistency from recent droppings. Has this chameleon ever been tested for parasites?
History - Any previous information about your cham that might be useful to others when trying to help you.
Cage Info:
Cage Type - Describe your cage (Glass, Screen, Combo?) What are the dimensions?
Lighting - What brand, model, and types of lighting are you using? What is your daily lighting schedule?
Temperature - What temp range have you created (cage floor to basking spot)? Lowest overnight temp? How do you measure these temps?
Humidity - What are your humidity levels? How are you creating and maintaining these levels? What do you use to measure humidity?
Plants - Are you using live plants? If so, what kind?
Placement - Where is your cage located? Is it near any fans, air vents, or high traffic areas? At what height is the top of the cage relative to your room floor?
Location - Where are you geographically located?
Current Problem - The current problem you are concerned about.
Chameleon Info:
Your Chameleon - The species, sex, and age of your chameleon. How long has it been in your care?
Handling - How often do you handle your chameleon?
Feeding - What are you feeding your cham? What amount? What is the schedule? How are you gut-loading your feeders?
Supplements - What brand and type of calcium and vitamin products are you dusting your feeders with and what is the schedule?
Watering - What kind of watering technique do you use? How often and how long to you mist? Do you see your chameleon drinking?
Fecal Description - Briefly note colors and consistency from recent droppings. Has this chameleon ever been tested for parasites?
History - Any previous information about your cham that might be useful to others when trying to help you.
Cage Info:
Cage Type - Describe your cage (Glass, Screen, Combo?) What are the dimensions?
Lighting - What brand, model, and types of lighting are you using? What is your daily lighting schedule?
Temperature - What temp range have you created (cage floor to basking spot)? Lowest overnight temp? How do you measure these temps?
Humidity - What are your humidity levels? How are you creating and maintaining these levels? What do you use to measure humidity?
Plants - Are you using live plants? If so, what kind?
Placement - Where is your cage located? Is it near any fans, air vents, or high traffic areas? At what height is the top of the cage relative to your room floor?
Location - Where are you geographically located?
Current Problem - The current problem you are concerned about.
Solid Snake
Avid Member
To clarify. Female chameleons in general pass eggs whether or not they are mated. Your female Jacksonii Xanthopholus is one of few live bearing species. They carry there young inside, and expel them in a sticky sac. The sac sticks to a random branch/leaf, and the miniature size chameleon pops out and starts its life. Its somewhat rare (at least in captivity) for them to pass unfertilized eggs or "slugs", but it does happen. It is not an indicator of a health issue. So no need to worry
Solid Snake
Avid Member
Holy
I figured it out!!! wahoo, i got a species right!
sorry totally off topic, and to the OP,
fill out the form and we can help get her on track to be healthy and adopted out!
Lol, congrats!
...and bumb...
...
camimom
New Member
Lol, congrats!
...and bumb...
and bumb? huh?
Solid Snake
Avid Member
BUMP LOL, I just want the OP to know we are legitimetly interested, and I want to make sure shes doing well
Its a beautiful animal The teal in her eyes is crazy! It may be a meru, but Im having trouble finding reference pics Maybe an expert will stop by
camimom
New Member
BUMP LOL, I just want the OP to know we are legitimetly interested, and I want to make sure shes doing well
i do love that teal color. which was also part of the reason i wasnt sure on a jackson.
Solid Snake
Avid Member
Its a jackson. 100% What kind, Im still a little unsure. Screams xanth, but that teal color is very interesting. I havnt seen one quite like her. Im having trouble finding pics of females from other sub species to compare her to though.
ScalesTailsandClaws
New Member
Those are slugs. Ever had an adult female Colombian red tail boa slug out on you after being bred? Think of sweet potatoes. Lots of wet, stinky, sweet potatoes. Boas are live bearers as are Jackson's like so many others have said. At least she passed them too.
Thanks!
Thank you everyone for all of your assistance. We spoke with a couple of veterinarians today that are going to help us out. From what the vet's had said it sounds like she may have been laying unfertilized eggs due to possibly not having enough humidity. We are going to move our chameleon into her own room and give her a humidifier as well as several times a day misting her, as we do not have a drop system. We are also going to be giving her a calcium and vitamin d supplement sprinkled onto her daily crickets and once a week giving her a mutli-vitamin with amino acids, per the vet. Again thank you for all your help we truly appreciate have such knowledgeable people help us being able to care for a creature we are not that knowledgeable about.
Thank you everyone for all of your assistance. We spoke with a couple of veterinarians today that are going to help us out. From what the vet's had said it sounds like she may have been laying unfertilized eggs due to possibly not having enough humidity. We are going to move our chameleon into her own room and give her a humidifier as well as several times a day misting her, as we do not have a drop system. We are also going to be giving her a calcium and vitamin d supplement sprinkled onto her daily crickets and once a week giving her a mutli-vitamin with amino acids, per the vet. Again thank you for all your help we truly appreciate have such knowledgeable people help us being able to care for a creature we are not that knowledgeable about.
I don't understand what humidity would have to do with her giving birth to unfertilized eggs....did the vet say more about it?
Be careful with the supplements. Although its important to dust with calcium to balance the ratio of phos. to calcium in the insects, D3 and other fat soluble vitamins can build up in the system and lead to problems....especially in Jackson's.
Here's some information I hope will help you with supplementing, etc.....
appropriate cage temperatures aid in digestion and thus play a part indirectly in nutrient absorption.
Exposure to UVB from either direct sunlight or a proper UVB light allows the chameleon to produce D3 so that it can use the calcium in its system to make/keep the bones strong and be used in other systems in the chameleon as well. The UVB should not pass through glass or plastic no matter whether its from the sun or the UVB light. The most often recommended UVB light is the long linear fluorescent Repti-sun 5.0 tube light. Some of the compacts, spirals and tube lights have caused health issues, but so far there have been no bad reports against this one.
A wide variety of insects that have been well fed and gutloaded should be fed to it.
Since many of the feeder insects we use in captivity have a poor ratio of calcium to phosphorus in them, its important to dust the insects just before you feed them to the chameleon at most feedings with a phos.-free calcium powder to help make up for it. (I use Rep-cal phosphorus-free calcium).
If you also dust twice a month with a phos.-free calcium/D3 powder it will ensure that your chameleon gets some D3 without overdoing it. It leaves the chameleon to produce the rest of what it needs through its exposure to the UVB light. D3 from supplements can build up in the system but D3 produced from exposure to UVB shouldn't as long as the chameleon can move in and out of it. (I use Rep-cal phos.-free calcium/D3).
Dusting twice a month as well with a vitamin powder that contains a beta carotene (prOformed) source of vitamin A will ensure that the chameleon gets some vitamins without the danger of overdosing the vitamin A. PrEformed sources of vitamin A can build up in the system and may prevent the D3 from doing its job and push the chameleon towards MBD. However, there is controversy as to whether all/any chameleons can convert the beta carotene and so some people give some prEformed vitamin A once in a while. (I use herptivite which has beta carotene.)
Gutloading/feeding the insects well helps to provide what the chameleon needs. I gutload crickets, roaches, locusts, superworms, etc. with an assortment of greens (dandelions, kale, collards, endive, escarole, mustard greens, etc.) and veggies (carrots, squash, sweet potato, sweet red pepper, zucchini, etc.)
Calcium, phos., D3 and vitamin A are important players in bone health and other systems in the chameleon (muscles, etc.) and they need to be in balance. When trying to balance them, you need to look at the supplements, what you feed the insects and what you feed the chameleon.
Please note that various supplements have various amounts of D3 and vitamin A and so some can be given more often than others. The idea still is not to overdo the fat soluble vitamins like D3 and prEformed vitamin A.
Here are some good sites for you to read too...
http://chameleonnews.com/07FebWheelock.html
http://web.archive.org/web/200605020...Vitamin.A.html
http://web.archive.org/web/200406080...d.Calcium.html
http://www.uvguide.co.uk/
http://web.archive.org/web/200601140...ww.adcham.com/
If you can't access the sites above that have the word "archive" in you can do it through the WayBackMachine.
Be careful with the supplements. Although its important to dust with calcium to balance the ratio of phos. to calcium in the insects, D3 and other fat soluble vitamins can build up in the system and lead to problems....especially in Jackson's.
Here's some information I hope will help you with supplementing, etc.....
appropriate cage temperatures aid in digestion and thus play a part indirectly in nutrient absorption.
Exposure to UVB from either direct sunlight or a proper UVB light allows the chameleon to produce D3 so that it can use the calcium in its system to make/keep the bones strong and be used in other systems in the chameleon as well. The UVB should not pass through glass or plastic no matter whether its from the sun or the UVB light. The most often recommended UVB light is the long linear fluorescent Repti-sun 5.0 tube light. Some of the compacts, spirals and tube lights have caused health issues, but so far there have been no bad reports against this one.
A wide variety of insects that have been well fed and gutloaded should be fed to it.
Since many of the feeder insects we use in captivity have a poor ratio of calcium to phosphorus in them, its important to dust the insects just before you feed them to the chameleon at most feedings with a phos.-free calcium powder to help make up for it. (I use Rep-cal phosphorus-free calcium).
If you also dust twice a month with a phos.-free calcium/D3 powder it will ensure that your chameleon gets some D3 without overdoing it. It leaves the chameleon to produce the rest of what it needs through its exposure to the UVB light. D3 from supplements can build up in the system but D3 produced from exposure to UVB shouldn't as long as the chameleon can move in and out of it. (I use Rep-cal phos.-free calcium/D3).
Dusting twice a month as well with a vitamin powder that contains a beta carotene (prOformed) source of vitamin A will ensure that the chameleon gets some vitamins without the danger of overdosing the vitamin A. PrEformed sources of vitamin A can build up in the system and may prevent the D3 from doing its job and push the chameleon towards MBD. However, there is controversy as to whether all/any chameleons can convert the beta carotene and so some people give some prEformed vitamin A once in a while. (I use herptivite which has beta carotene.)
Gutloading/feeding the insects well helps to provide what the chameleon needs. I gutload crickets, roaches, locusts, superworms, etc. with an assortment of greens (dandelions, kale, collards, endive, escarole, mustard greens, etc.) and veggies (carrots, squash, sweet potato, sweet red pepper, zucchini, etc.)
Calcium, phos., D3 and vitamin A are important players in bone health and other systems in the chameleon (muscles, etc.) and they need to be in balance. When trying to balance them, you need to look at the supplements, what you feed the insects and what you feed the chameleon.
Please note that various supplements have various amounts of D3 and vitamin A and so some can be given more often than others. The idea still is not to overdo the fat soluble vitamins like D3 and prEformed vitamin A.
Here are some good sites for you to read too...
http://chameleonnews.com/07FebWheelock.html
http://web.archive.org/web/200605020...Vitamin.A.html
http://web.archive.org/web/200406080...d.Calcium.html
http://www.uvguide.co.uk/
http://web.archive.org/web/200601140...ww.adcham.com/
If you can't access the sites above that have the word "archive" in you can do it through the WayBackMachine.
Carlton
Chameleon Enthusiast
Agree...dehydration wouldn't have this effect on a jax, in fact I'd say just the opposite. I've had severely dehydrated female jax and none of them passed "slugs". You don't know about it's care before it arrived, and there could be all sorts of husbandry or nutritional issues causing this. Or, if it was a recent import it could have been gravid but not in good enough shape to develop the ova normally because of all the stress. A big concern for her could end up being peritonitis if any of them rupture internally.
Carlton
Chameleon Enthusiast
BTW, your "unknown" snakes Equinox and Solstice are ball (aka: royal) pythons, Python regius. A nice smaller sized beginner python. Max out at about 4' long, generally docile. Lots of good information on care available online too.
Solid Snake
Avid Member
Please take all of this into account, especially the fact that jacksons are quite sensitive to supplementation. I have recently had an issue with this myself.
PLEASE keep us updated on her! If you ever need help, you know where to look!
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