help! my new cham is acting strange?

wandathecham

New Member
i bought a baby veiled chameleon last friday and i’m not sure is something is wrong?? one eye looks sunken in and she/he (looks to be a girl to me) is squinting one and keeping the other open. she’s been shedding since i got her last friday and i don’t think it’s supposed to take them that long. i read that you can help if you see stuck skin that’s shedding but i don’t wanna stress her out by putting my hands in her face. i tried to get her out on a stick to place her on her plant in the shower to see if that would help her shedding or if something is stuck in her one eye but she wouldn’t get on and i didn’t want to force her. the humidity is kept at above 50 percent all day and i mist about every three hours to provide drinking water. i have an automatic mister but can only get it to drip water droplet. she didn’t eat for about 5 days when i first got her but since then she has been eating small crickets, i tired small roaches and worms but she wouldn’t eat them. i can’t tell if her behavior is weird because i haven’t had her for long so i don’t know her normal behavior. please help i’m so worried
 
Welcome to the forum and the world of chameleons!

Please post some photos of her and her cage, lights included.

They are dry shedders so don't shower her. Don't help the shed come off either. The only time to help a shed is on a tail or ankle/foot if it's causing a constriction.

Do you know how old she is approximately?.
 
  • Your Chameleon - The species, sex, and age of your chameleon. How long has it been in your care? a veiled chameleon, i’ve had her for a week, the store didn’t tell me it’s age or sex. it looks to me like a girl and maybe a month old?? will post a pic and let you guys decide.
  • Handling - How often do you handle your chameleon? i haven’t taken her out by my hands only twice on her plant and take her into the sunshine while i clean the enclosure.
  • Feeding - What are you feeding your cham? What amount? What is the schedule? How are you gut-loading your feeders? she didn’t eat for 5 days when i first brought her home since then she’s been eating about 16 small crickets a day, i’ve tried small roaches but she wouldn’t eat them
  • Supplements - What brand and type of calcium and vitamin products are you dusting your feeders with and what is the schedule? i have a calcium powder bu eco terra that i have dusted one batch of crickets with it.
  • Watering - What kind of watering technique do you use? How often and how long to you mist? Do you see your chameleon drinking? i mist every three hours for about 30-45 second or until the humidity is up. i see her drinking when i mist she’ll open up her mouth and i’ll spray her from far away
  • Fecal Description - Briefly note colors and consistency from recent droppings. Has this chameleon ever been tested for parasites? i dont know what the poop looks like so i’m not sure if i’ve seen any??! this maybe a problem
  • History - Any previous information about your cham that might be useful to others when trying to help you. no:(

Cage Info:
  • Cage Type - Describe your cage (Glass, Screen, Combo?) What are the dimensions?i it’s a glass enclosure with a screen top it’s 19.1"L x 16.6"W x 22.4"H.
  • Lighting - What brand, model, and types of lighting are you using? What is your daily lighting schedule? ugh i threw away the boxes i wanna say i have the reptisun uvb light not the long one but i know i should invest in that one. the basking light i’m really not sure of the brand id i can find a pic of it i’ll post.
  • Temperature - What temp range have you created (cage floor to basking spot)? Lowest overnight temp? How do you measure these temps? i have a temperature and humidity gauge in there it’s not digital one though . the temperature is normally at between 75-85 .
  • Humidity - What are your humidity levels? How are you creating and maintaining these levels? What do you use to measure humidity? i kept it over 50% at all times especially since she’s having trouble with shedding i mist and have a automatic dropper
  • Plants - Are you using live plants? If so, what kind? i have a golden photos and a umbrella tree.
  • Placement - Where is your cage located? Is it near any fans, air vents, or high traffic areas? At what height is the top of the cage relative to your room floor? it’s up on a table thing about 4ish feet off the ground by the window.
  • Location - Where are you geographically located? i live in texas

Current Problem - The current problem you are concerned about. I think she’s acting a little weird she’s moving around and hunting the crickets fine she was bathing under her light for a while and now is hiding in her plant but she is vertical in the plant holding on? she’s been shedding for a week and her left eye is squinted sometimes when i spray her she’ll open it and sometimes i’ll catch her with it open .
 
i’m still working on her enclosure i’m trying to find a way to get the lights off the top but can’t find a way to hang it over yet. i assume i need some more vines up by the top as well
 

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Welcome to the forum and the world of chameleons!

Please post some photos of her and her cage, lights included.

They are dry shedders so don't shower her. Don't help the shed come off either. The only time to help a shed is on a tail or ankle/foot if it's causing a constriction.

Do you know how old she is approximately?.
Welcome to the forum and the world of chameleons!

Please post some photos of her and her cage, lights included.

They are dry shedders so don't shower her. Don't help the shed come off either. The only time to help a shed is on a tail or ankle/foot if it's causing a constriction.

Do you know how old she is approximately?.
 

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i’m worried sick she’s my little baby :( she’s still looking skinny from when she wasn’t eating but i’ve been seeing her eat crickets these last three days
 
Hello and welcome K. Her eyes look fine. The white around the one is shed and it maybe irritating her but dont help unless she starts clawing at it. The eyes are plump which means she is not dehydrated. Sunken eyes means dehydration. The one thing thst you must understand about chams is they stress out easily and stress can make them sick. She has new home which is a biggy and you need to have patience and let her get settled in. I see missskittles is going over you set up and please heed the advice given. We have seen it take two months to develope mbd metobolic bone disease from a bad setup.mbd is caused by calcium and D3 deficeny and the bones get deformed and break. So the info you will be given is serious for a healthy growing young baby. I am glad you have reached out here because we all love our chams and want all chams to thrive. Btw you dont want her crawling on the top screen. Too close to the lights but she needs horizontal perches at different levels beneath the lights. I suggest you go to chamelenacademy and start reseaching. You can learn so much there.
 
Also female chams are like birds with regards to eggs. They will lay them even if they are not fertilized by a male. So at some point, not sure of the age cause i have a male, you will need to setup a laying bin. unfertilized eggs wont hatch but it is an issue you will have to deal with having a female.
 
Also evrytime my boy molts he stops eating and is cranky. also be very careful taking your cam into a steamy bathroom. If you do this you will have to let the steam dissapate and the temp return to normal before removing her from the bathroom or the major temp\humidity change could cause major stress and possible shock.
So hot steam is not the way to go.
 
I’ll be putting my feedback in red. Just a caution…do not feel overwhelmed! I’m probably going to be giving you a lot of changes to make, but will let you know which are priority. Plus, we’re always here to help you each step. :)
  • Your Chameleon - The species, sex, and age of your chameleon. How long has it been in your care? a veiled chameleon, i’ve had her for a week, the store didn’t tell me it’s age or sex. it looks to me like a girl and maybe a month old?? will post a pic and let you guys decide. Males have tarsal spurs…little nubs on their back feet. If you post a pic of the back feet, we can figure it out for you. He/she looks very young, but for a good guess we’ll need more pics.
  • Handling - How often do you handle your chameleon? i haven’t taken her out by my hands only twice on her plant and take her into the sunshine while i clean the enclosure.
  • Feeding - What are you feeding your cham? What amount? What is the schedule? How are you gut-loading your feeders? she didn’t eat for 5 days when i first brought her home since then she’s been eating about 16 small crickets a day, i’ve tried small roaches but she wouldn’t eat them Feeder size is important and none should be any bigger than the space between the eyes. Variety is best and there are several great staples. I would suggest trying bsfl. You need to feed the feeders and keep them healthy so that they are more nutritious. Attaching feeder and gutload graphics below. Feeder amount is based on age. Your cham looks so tiny that I’m going to say feed him/her as much as he/she will eat in about 15-20 minutes time. If only a month old, you could/should do this twice a day.
  • Supplements - What brand and type of calcium and vitamin products are you dusting your feeders with and what is the schedule? i have a calcium powder bu eco terra that i have dusted one batch of crickets with it. Very important…does it have D3 in it? If it does not, you’ll want to use that to lightly dust every feeding. Then you’ll also need to provide D3 and a multivitamin. I like and use a combo product - Reptivite with D3. You’d use that for one feeding every other week. There are tons of supplements and regimens, but I find that one is easiest to follow.
  • Watering - What kind of watering technique do you use? How often and how long to you mist? Do you see your chameleon drinking? i mist every three hours for about 30-45 second or until the humidity is up. i see her drinking when i mist she’ll open up her mouth and i’ll spray her from far away It would be better to mist for at least 2 minutes, 2-3 times a day. Instead of a mid day misting, you could use a dripper for about 20-30 minutes. You need the enclosure to fully dry out in between. Avoid spraying her directly, especially in the mouth. Their airway is in the front of their mouth and you could accidentally cause aspiration.
  • Fecal Description - Briefly note colors and consistency from recent droppings. Has this chameleon ever been tested for parasites? i dont know what the poop looks like so i’m not sure if i’ve seen any??! this maybe a problem Chameleon poop is usually a dark brown turd with a white or cream colored end. The white is the urate (urine) and is the best way to gauge hydration level. White/cream colored or with a bit of yellow or orange at one end is ok. All dark or orange is dehydrated. Always a good idea to have a veterinary wellness check and take a fresh poo to check for parasites.
  • History - Any previous information about your cham that might be useful to others when trying to help you. no:(

Cage Info:
  • Cage Type - Describe your cage (Glass, Screen, Combo?) What are the dimensions?i it’s a glass enclosure with a screen top it’s 19.1"L x 16.6"W x 22.4"H. Your little one is going to very rapidly outgrow this. Minimum size is 2x2x4’ or equivalent. While glass is fine in some cases, I suggest you get an all screen or screen hybrid enclosure. It’s much easier for a new keeper to adjust humidity with screen.
  • Lighting - What brand, model, and types of lighting are you using? What is your daily lighting schedule? ugh i threw away the boxes i wanna say i have the reptisun uvb light not the long one but i know i should invest in that one. the basking light i’m really not sure of the brand id i can find a pic of it i’ll post. Brand isn’t so important. The screw in uvb bulbs aren’t able to provide adequate levels of uvb any farther away than 2-3”. The standard is a linear T5 ho fixture with either a ReptiSun 5.0 or Arcadia 6% uvb bulb. Unless you have a solarmeter, ReptiSun bulbs need to be changed every 6 months and Arcadia, every year. Then basking area needs to be around 8-9” down from the uvb light. As most baby chams like to climb screen tops, it’s best to elevate all lights at least a few inches above the screen to prevent burns.
  • Temperature - What temp range have you created (cage floor to basking spot)? Lowest overnight temp? How do you measure these temps? i have a temperature and humidity gauge in there it’s not digital one though . the temperature is normally at between 75-85 . For babies, you don’t want your temp above 80. You also want a nice gradient of temps so your cham can move lower in the enclosure if it wants to cool off. Shaded areas also.
  • Humidity - What are your humidity levels? How are you creating and maintaining these levels? What do you use to measure humidity? i kept it over 50% at all times especially since she’s having trouble with shedding i mist and have a automatic dropper No to both. Ideal humidity is between 30-50% during the day. High heat+high humidity+limited ventilation (glass enclosure) can cause a respiratory infection. Chameleons are dry shedders and unlike say a bearded dragon, wetting them causes the shed to stick more. Getting humidity in ideal range will reduce any shedding problems.
  • Plants - Are you using live plants? If so, what kind? i have a golden photos and a umbrella tree. Great start! You need some more though. You want to create a forest edge environment. You definitely need more branches/vines and at varied levels. You can either craft a little ‘scaffold’ to enable you to place branches or buy a small garden trellis. I use branches I collect outside. Wash with Dawn dish soap, rinse well with the hose and dry in the sun. Avoid pine or other sappy trees.
  • Placement - Where is your cage located? Is it near any fans, air vents, or high traffic areas? At what height is the top of the cage relative to your room floor? it’s up on a table thing about 4ish feet off the ground by the window. The higher they are, the safer they feel. Even though I’m short, I have all of my chams so high I need a little step stool to reach them. I think they like that. :)
  • Location - Where are you geographically located? i live in texas

Current Problem - The current problem you are concerned about. I think she’s acting a little weird she’s moving around and hunting the crickets fine she was bathing under her light for a while and now is hiding in her plant but she is vertical in the plant holding on? she’s been shedding for a week and her left eye is squinted sometimes when i spray her she’ll open it and sometimes i’ll catch her with it open . I’m thinking it’s possibly just a combination of the many things I pointed out above. The younger the chameleon, the more fragile they are and intolerant to improper husbandry. Responsible breeders won’t sell their chameleons until at least 3 months old. Please…I’m not blaming you for anything so don’t perceive that I am. I know that you love your sweet little one and have only been doing the best that you’ve known. Sadly, there’s so much horrible information about keeping chams out there…on line, pet stores and even others who haven’t learned better. We follow the husbandry guidelines of https://chameleonacademy.com/chameleon-husbandry-program-getting-started-with-chameleons/ which are the most accurate and up to date. I urge you to read thru all of the modules and check out the podcasts. There is also Neptune the chameleon on YouTube. This is getting long so, to be continued…
37B1115A-13B0-47EC-AAAB-A4D92D8BE77F.jpeg
F5655E0F-3D2F-40C6-98AC-EDA730EAF04C.jpeg
 
As I said, I would prioritize the changes, so here they are.
The correct uvb can not wait. Most chain pet stores do not sell T5 fixtures/bulbs so you may need to order on line. I’ve bought these and am happy with them. https://www.pangeareptile.com/collections/t5-lighting/products/arcadia-prot5-6-uvb-bulb-with-hood ReptiSun is only a few dollars cheaper. If you need to order, until it arrives you can take your baby outside (weather permitting) for about 15-20 minutes for some unfiltered sunlight.
Supplements also can not wait. Again, you may need to order.
All of those little baby bones and organs need proper nutrition, vitamins and minerals to form and grow correctly. Veileds grow very fast, so it’s essential to correct this ASAP.
Getting your temps and humidity corrected is also essential.
Usually I’d say plants and enclosure can wait, but I think your little one would benefit greatly from having this done sooner rather than later. Although a 2x2x4’ enclosure may seem humongous for such a tiny baby, keep in mind that in the wild their space is unlimited. Just make sure you have a feeding station within easy sight and reach. Speaking of which, I like this for feeding. https://tkchameleons.com/products/shooting-gallery?variant=30018608595032 Some have crafted their own and it’s probably super easy to do, but I’m a bit lazy at times.
Some chameleons are secretive about eating and/or drinking. Mine have no problem eating and don’t care who’s watching, but I’m yet to really see any of them drink.
As for the eye issue…I’d like to see some better pics of each eye. The right eye does look flatter than the left in the pic you posted. It could be any number of correctable things or it could just be the way he/she was formed in the egg. Eye issues are funny things and usually best left for a good vet to diagnose and treat.
I see someone has already mentioned egg laying if you have a girl. Before I go all out and overwhelm you even more, I’m going to wait until we can better determine if you have a boy or girl. I will just say that the care for all babies is the same, but as they reach maturity, we provide a little different care for our girls.
I hope I’ve been of some help. I know I’ve thrown a lot at you, so don’t be afraid to ask any questions. :)
 
Fyi you can get a fecal home test kit for $25 at rainbowmealworms.com lab testing is included in the price. Signs of respiratory infection are the cham sits with the mouth open with or without head tilted upwards. Respiratory infections have to be treated with meds from a vet so becareful. Also know that chams hide illnesses so once you see the signs it is probably well underway. Also i see that wood center piece has moss on it. Vieleds are one of the few chams that eat plants so i would remove it off that piece. Also i buy organic collard greens clean and dry the leaves clip off the bottoms and half fill a vase with water stuff them in and keep it in the frig. Everyday i cut from the dry top pieces to eat should been about an inch or so since shes so small and place them on a small upside down bowl or flat rock on the bottom if the cage where you have seen her climb down to. Change everyday. Collard greens are high in vit k and a. It will last a long time in the frig like that just change the water or add to it. If thet get slimmy remove dying greens and throughly wash a dry remaining leaves and refrigerate in water again. You can try other greens like kale but collard has most vitamins. if she doesnt eat it, move it to different places and try hand feeding so she knows it is for her. If she eats the pathos you have, thats fine.
 
I’ll be putting my feedback in red. Just a caution…do not feel overwhelmed! I’m probably going to be giving you a lot of changes to make, but will let you know which are priority. Plus, we’re always here to help you each step. :)
  • Your Chameleon - The species, sex, and age of your chameleon. How long has it been in your care? a veiled chameleon, i’ve had her for a week, the store didn’t tell me it’s age or sex. it looks to me like a girl and maybe a month old?? will post a pic and let you guys decide. Males have tarsal spurs…little nubs on their back feet. If you post a pic of the back feet, we can figure it out for you. He/she looks very young, but for a good guess we’ll need more pics.
  • Handling - How often do you handle your chameleon? i haven’t taken her out by my hands only twice on her plant and take her into the sunshine while i clean the enclosure.
  • Feeding - What are you feeding your cham? What amount? What is the schedule? How are you gut-loading your feeders? she didn’t eat for 5 days when i first brought her home since then she’s been eating about 16 small crickets a day, i’ve tried small roaches but she wouldn’t eat them Feeder size is important and none should be any bigger than the space between the eyes. Variety is best and there are several great staples. I would suggest trying bsfl. You need to feed the feeders and keep them healthy so that they are more nutritious. Attaching feeder and gutload graphics below. Feeder amount is based on age. Your cham looks so tiny that I’m going to say feed him/her as much as he/she will eat in about 15-20 minutes time. If only a month old, you could/should do this twice a day.
  • Supplements - What brand and type of calcium and vitamin products are you dusting your feeders with and what is the schedule? i have a calcium powder bu eco terra that i have dusted one batch of crickets with it. Very important…does it have D3 in it? If it does not, you’ll want to use that to lightly dust every feeding. Then you’ll also need to provide D3 and a multivitamin. I like and use a combo product - Reptivite with D3. You’d use that for one feeding every other week. There are tons of supplements and regimens, but I find that one is easiest to follow.
  • Watering - What kind of watering technique do you use? How often and how long to you mist? Do you see your chameleon drinking? i mist every three hours for about 30-45 second or until the humidity is up. i see her drinking when i mist she’ll open up her mouth and i’ll spray her from far away It would be better to mist for at least 2 minutes, 2-3 times a day. Instead of a mid day misting, you could use a dripper for about 20-30 minutes. You need the enclosure to fully dry out in between. Avoid spraying her directly, especially in the mouth. Their airway is in the front of their mouth and you could accidentally cause aspiration.
  • Fecal Description - Briefly note colors and consistency from recent droppings. Has this chameleon ever been tested for parasites? i dont know what the poop looks like so i’m not sure if i’ve seen any??! this maybe a problem Chameleon poop is usually a dark brown turd with a white or cream colored end. The white is the urate (urine) and is the best way to gauge hydration level. White/cream colored or with a bit of yellow or orange at one end is ok. All dark or orange is dehydrated. Always a good idea to have a veterinary wellness check and take a fresh poo to check for parasites.
  • History - Any previous information about your cham that might be useful to others when trying to help you. no:(

Cage Info:
  • Cage Type - Describe your cage (Glass, Screen, Combo?) What are the dimensions?i it’s a glass enclosure with a screen top it’s 19.1"L x 16.6"W x 22.4"H. Your little one is going to very rapidly outgrow this. Minimum size is 2x2x4’ or equivalent. While glass is fine in some cases, I suggest you get an all screen or screen hybrid enclosure. It’s much easier for a new keeper to adjust humidity with screen.
  • Lighting - What brand, model, and types of lighting are you using? What is your daily lighting schedule? ugh i threw away the boxes i wanna say i have the reptisun uvb light not the long one but i know i should invest in that one. the basking light i’m really not sure of the brand id i can find a pic of it i’ll post. Brand isn’t so important. The screw in uvb bulbs aren’t able to provide adequate levels of uvb any farther away than 2-3”. The standard is a linear T5 ho fixture with either a ReptiSun 5.0 or Arcadia 6% uvb bulb. Unless you have a solarmeter, ReptiSun bulbs need to be changed every 6 months and Arcadia, every year. Then basking area needs to be around 8-9” down from the uvb light. As most baby chams like to climb screen tops, it’s best to elevate all lights at least a few inches above the screen to prevent burns.
  • Temperature - What temp range have you created (cage floor to basking spot)? Lowest overnight temp? How do you measure these temps? i have a temperature and humidity gauge in there it’s not digital one though . the temperature is normally at between 75-85 . For babies, you don’t want your temp above 80. You also want a nice gradient of temps so your cham can move lower in the enclosure if it wants to cool off. Shaded areas also.
  • Humidity - What are your humidity levels? How are you creating and maintaining these levels? What do you use to measure humidity? i kept it over 50% at all times especially since she’s having trouble with shedding i mist and have a automatic dropper No to both. Ideal humidity is between 30-50% during the day. High heat+high humidity+limited ventilation (glass enclosure) can cause a respiratory infection. Chameleons are dry shedders and unlike say a bearded dragon, wetting them causes the shed to stick more. Getting humidity in ideal range will reduce any shedding problems.
  • Plants - Are you using live plants? If so, what kind? i have a golden photos and a umbrella tree. Great start! You need some more though. You want to create a forest edge environment. You definitely need more branches/vines and at varied levels. You can either craft a little ‘scaffold’ to enable you to place branches or buy a small garden trellis. I use branches I collect outside. Wash with Dawn dish soap, rinse well with the hose and dry in the sun. Avoid pine or other sappy trees.
  • Placement - Where is your cage located? Is it near any fans, air vents, or high traffic areas? At what height is the top of the cage relative to your room floor? it’s up on a table thing about 4ish feet off the ground by the window. The higher they are, the safer they feel. Even though I’m short, I have all of my chams so high I need a little step stool to reach them. I think they like that. :)
  • Location - Where are you geographically located? i live in texas

Current Problem - The current problem you are concerned about. I think she’s acting a little weird she’s moving around and hunting the crickets fine she was bathing under her light for a while and now is hiding in her plant but she is vertical in the plant holding on? she’s been shedding for a week and her left eye is squinted sometimes when i spray her she’ll open it and sometimes i’ll catch her with it open . I’m thinking it’s possibly just a combination of the many things I pointed out above. The younger the chameleon, the more fragile they are and intolerant to improper husbandry. Responsible breeders won’t sell their chameleons until at least 3 months old. Please…I’m not blaming you for anything so don’t perceive that I am. I know that you love your sweet little one and have only been doing the best that you’ve known. Sadly, there’s so much horrible information about keeping chams out there…on line, pet stores and even others who haven’t learned better. We follow the husbandry guidelines of https://chameleonacademy.com/chameleon-husbandry-program-getting-started-with-chameleons/ which are the most accurate and up to date. I urge you to read thru all of the modules and check out the podcasts. There is also Neptune the chameleon on YouTube. This is getting long so, to be continued…
i’m so thankful for this page!
anyways
first the calcium supplement has no vitamin D. i had nooo idea they were dry shedders. i had the total wrong idea! i guess because assumed since they needed humidity it would help them shed with a higher humidity. but that makes tons of sense, will definitely cut down on the number of misting and will adjust my dripper as well. and i figured she liked getting misted it because she would open her mouth I figured that mean she wanted some water. but good to know no more spraying her. i’ll get some better pics tomorrow hopefully she’ll be out of the plant. she is extremely small and when i got her she was even smaller she/he is soooo fragile.Ok so i need 1. get a multivitamin supplement with D3 2.a new uvb light ( I just finished watching Neptune the chameleons video about lighting, going to get the one she recommends) 3.another temperature gauge for the bottom of the cage 4.a feeder for my buggies 5.probably another enclosure i’m thinking I’m probably going to change her enclosure soon since I already have to make so many changes i might as well get it as perfect as i can right now. i’m gonna look for some poop in the cage tomorrow as well when I clean out the paper towels at the bottom.
 
Fyi you can get a fecal home test kit for $25 at rainbowmealworms.com lab testing is included in the price. Signs of respiratory infection are the cham sits with the mouth open with or without head tilted upwards. Respiratory infections have to be treated with meds from a vet so becareful. Also know that chams hide illnesses so once you see the signs it is probably well underway. Also i see that wood center piece has moss on it. Vieleds are one of the few chams that eat plants so i would remove it off that piece. Also i buy organic collard greens clean and dry the leaves clip off the bottoms and half fill a vase with water stuff them in and keep it in the frig. Everyday i cut from the dry top pieces to eat should been about an inch or so since shes so small and place them on a small upside down bowl or flat rock on the bottom if the cage where you have seen her climb down to. Change everyday. Collard greens are high in vit k and a. It will last a long time in the frig like that just change the water or add to it. If thet get slimmy remove dying greens and throughly wash a dry remaining leaves and refrigerate in water again. You can try other greens like kale but collard has most vitamins. if she doesnt eat it, move it to different places and try hand feeding so she knows it is for her. If she eats the pathos you have, thats fine.
Going to have to look into that fecal testing. Usually once the poo dries or is older than a day, it doesn’t show very much. At least that’s what I think. Also, I think treatment is best left for vets as the dosing needs to be properly calculated for each chameleon’s size/weight.
I hate to do it, but I need to correct you on the greens. Although veileds will eat greens, veggies and fruit, their digestive systems aren’t built for properly digesting it. It’s much better to give those items to your feeders and have them pass on the nutrition. No one has truly figured out why they eat their plants.
You are correct in the moss…both fake and real are impaction risks. The centerpiece looks like a reptile hide, which while it’s ok to use (except for the moss), it doesn’t provide any true benefit aside from being something to sit on. @wandathecham you may want to just store the glass enclosure and all the rest as chameleons can be gateway reptiles. The glass enclosure and the centerpiece would be very nice for an animal like a crested gecko if you ever get one in your future.
 
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