Getting ready for the plunge!

[RS4guy]

Hi guys, first post. I am getting ready to pull some triggers and purchase a mlae Panther. Very exciting! I am not completely new to reptiles or Chams, but have never owned a Cham, just Beardies, Uromastyx's and geckos.

I will just be getting a 24x24x48 right away, and sectioning it off so the juvi Panther will not get lost. My question is:

What company/site makes the best cage in this size (or close to it). I want a coated aluminum screen if possible (PVC), as I read bare screens can be a little rough on the feet and bodies.

Also I am waiting for the Monsoon miusting system to debut in late Dec. as it looks perfect for what I need and is not overly expensive.

I am planning to have a pair of schefflera trees as they look nice and offer good foliage.

Any other tips and/or suggestions would be wonderful. I will be doing much reseach in the meantime.

Thanks,

Josh


PS if anyone in the new england area is interested ina Mali Uro, or a Beardie adult let me know!

 

[PrettyInInk87]

Welcome!

Everything sounds good so far! Have you gotten your lighting? Most of us use a 5.0 Repti-Sun linear tube with a seperate basking bulb from 40 to 60 watts. I keep my little guy from 75 to 80 degrees in the day time and allow the temps to drop at night 10 degrees and no lower than 60.

I am also new and pretty much have had my little Sambava Male for about a week and he is really awesome, you will enjoy it. You will find this site to be FULL of a lot of informative people, in just 2 weeks I have learned LOTS.

I also have a BUNCH of other reptiles but Cham's are pretty different. Good luck and make sure to take some pictures when you get your little guy!

 

[RS4guy]

Im not new to the Cham care, just owning one, my buddy has had a few. I will be doing a 5.0 UVB bulb (almost all reptiles need UVB). Figuring a 85ish degree basking spot, with gradient temps in the enclosure ranging from 75- 85 with shade as well. Night temps are a bit cold in my house so I am planning on a UV night light to keep temps around 65ish. I will be sure to take pics but it prob won;t be until the new year when I get one. Thanks for the tips Gabbie!

 

[PrettyInInk87]

Your welcome, I have read on a few threads that most people do not reccomend the use of night bulbs but if your temps do get lower than 60, a ceramic bulb is reccommended. It emits enough heat while at the same time, produces no light. Cham's eyes are very sensitive and the blue or red lights can keep them up at night. Some are more than sensitive than others and if you would like to try it, it would be a good idea to monitor him and make sure he is sleeping. Good to know that you are doing your research before you bring your little guy home. Also, 85 might be a little too high of a temp if you plan on getting a baby. I keep my little guy at 80 81 tops or he starts gaping.

 

[kinyonga]

Here's some information you might like to read.....
Exposure to proper UVB, appropriate temperatures, supplements, a supply of well-fed/gutloaded insects, water and an appropriate cage set-up are all important for the well-being of your chameleon.

Appropriate cage temperatures aid in digestion and thus play a part indirectly in nutrient absorption.

Exposure to UVB from either direct sunlight or a proper UVB light allows the chameleon to produce D3 so that it can use the calcium in its system to make/keep the bones strong and be used in other systems in the chameleon as well. The UVB should not pass through glass or plastic no matter whether its from the sun or the UVB light. The most often recommended UVB light is the long linear fluorescent Repti-sun 5.0 tube light. Some of the compacts, spirals and tube lights have caused health issues, but so far there have been no bad reports against this one.

Since many of the feeder insects have a poor ratio of calcium to phosphorus in them, its important to dust the insects before you feed them to the chameleon with a phos.-free calcium powder to help make up for it.

If you dust twice a month with a phos.-free calcium/D3 powder it will ensure that your chameleon gets some D3 without overdoing it. It leaves the chameleon to produce the rest of what it needs through its exposure to the UVB light. (Some UVB lights have been known to cause health issues, so the most often recommended one is the long linear fluorescent Repti-sun 5.0 tube light.) D3 from supplements can build up in the system but D3 produced from exposure to UVB shouldn't as long as the chameleon can move in and out of it.

Dusting twice a month with a vitamin powder that contains a beta carotene (prOformed) source of vitamin A will ensure that the chameleon gets some vitamins without the danger of overdosing the vitamin A. PrEformed sources of vitamin A can build up in the system and may prevent the D3 from doing its job and push the chameleon towards MBD. However, there is controversy as to whether all/any chameleons can convert the beta carotene and so some people give some prEformed vitamin A once in a while.

Gutloading/feeding the insects well helps to provide what the chameleon needs....so its important too. I gutload crickets, roaches, locusts, superworms, etc. with an assortment of greens (dandelions, kale, collards, endive, escarole, mustard greens, etc.) and veggies (carrots, squash, sweet potato, sweet red pepper, zucchini, etc.)

Calcium, phos., D3 and vitamin A are important players in bone health and other systems in the chameleon (muscles, etc.) and they need to be in balance. When trying to balance them, you need to look at the supplements, what you feed the insects and what you feed the chameleon.

Here are some good sites for you to read...
http://chameleonnews.com/07FebWheelock.html
http://web.archive.org/web/200605020...Vitamin.A.html
http://web.archive.org/web/200604210...d.Calcium.html
http://www.uvguide.co.uk/
http://raisingkittytheveiledchameleon.blogspot.com/
http://web.archive.org/web/200601140...ww.adcham.com/
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[RS4guy]

I know all of that but thank you.... I'm more interested in the cage but I found an excellent one online, thanks. I am also going to go with either a Mistking or wait for the Monsoon to come out, that looks great.

In a 48" high cage, would 1 24" fixture (18" bulb, 5.0 reptisun/glow) be enough UVB?

 

[SS4Luck]

for cages most of us go to LLLreptile.com Ive also seen people starting to use DIYcages.com cages too. I think they are about the same price and the same quality.

PM summoner12, i know he has auto misters. IDK how much they are comparable to the others, but its worth a shot.

Congrats on finally pulling the trigger on a cham, youll love it these little guys are amazing!


Oh and WELCOME TO THE FORUM

 

[SS4Luck]

I just did a little reading on the monsoon, i assume your talking about the exo-terra one and i would stay away from it. I saw some people on the tropical frog forums sy its a piece of junk and a fancy box. Call marty at mistking or kevin (summoner12)

 

[RS4guy]

I just did a little reading on the monsoon, i assume your talking about the exo-terra one and i would stay away from it. I saw some people on the tropical frog forums sy its a piece of junk and a fancy box. Call marty at mistking or kevin (summoner12)

It hasn't even debuted yet. Im talking about this new one:

http://www.blackjungleterrariumsupp...S400-High-pressure-Misting-System_p_1719.html

It is made by exo-terra though, but looks to be of decent quality. I'm not buying anything til at least January either. I need some time to sell my other lizards, I'm consolidating .

Anyone know about my lighting question.... TIA!

 

[RS4guy]

Can someone confirm that a 18" T8 UVB bulb in a 20-24" fixture will provide enough UVB light? I will also be buying a 45w LED grow light for my dwarf umbrella and ficus... THanks.

 

[SS4Luck]

a single linear tube 5.0 UVB will give your little guy all hte UVB he needs, just get the biggest one that will fit ontop of the cage. I always rung mine within 2" of the overall width of the cage. Try adn get the UVB and heat as close together as possible. People a lot smarter than me said its easier for them to absorb UVB while they are warm or something like that so you want them to get a lot of UVB when they are sitting in the baskign spots getting warm