First Egg Laying

Redstrat951

New Member
  • Your Chameleon - Zelda. Female veiled, 8 months old
  • Handling - Just for feeding everyday. She comes to me. Sometimes let her hang out on decorative plants.
  • Feeding - I feed 5 medium crickets a day and feed 5 meal worms on days I don't have crickets. Which is usually once or twice a week.I use flukers gut load for crickets.
  • Supplements - I use reptivite calcium supplement at least 5 times a week by dusting.
  • Watering - I mist the cage myself after feeding, one good time a day. Humidity stays around 70%
  • Fecal Description - Poop is brown with white urate. Never tested for parasite.

Cage Info:
  • Cage Type - Screen cage, 36x24 I believe.
  • Lighting - reptisum 5.0 UV, 60 watt heat lamp
  • Temperature - Around 85 °F basking and 70° at bottom of cage. I have a thermometer on top and bottom.
  • Humidity- Usually around 70%, goes up when I mist cage
  • Plants - One croton Petra with natural potting aoso.
  • Placement - By the window, close to air vent I keep closed. 2 feet off ground.
  • Location - Chattanooga TN
Hey everyone. My female is trying to lay eggs. She stopped eating the past 4 days so I took her out of her cage and put her in the laying bin. She's digging a good hole but she's still face first in the hole and she's been at it for 6 hours. I don't want to disturb her.
Should I leave her in over night ?
Here's pictures of laying bin and her in the hole.
Also I have her in a home Depot bucket because she wouldn't even acknowledge the bin I put in her cage. So I just stuck her in and she finally started to dig.
 

jannb

Chameleon Enthusiast
I’d turn the chameleon lights off and just leave on the overhead in the room or a lamp. In the morning turn them back on. Did you check them temps before putting her in the bin? The lights look pretty close to her and may be to hot. My girls often stay/sleep in the lay bind over night and finish up the next morning.
 

Redstrat951

New Member
I’d turn the chameleon lights off and just leave on the overhead in the room or a lamp. In the morning turn them back on. Did you check them temps before putting her in the bin? The lights look pretty close to her and may be to hot. My girls often stay/sleep in the lay bind over night and finish up the next morning.
The lights are are little further away then her basking area so it should be around 70-80 degrees Fahrenheit.
Ok I feel more comfortable leaving her overnight. Thanks for your reply.
 

Thehippie

Chameleon Enthusiast
you should make her lay bin a permanent part of her enclosure. it will be more useful like that, what are the dimensions of your laybin
 

Dave85731

Established Member
you should make her lay bin a permanent part of her enclosure. it will be more useful like that, what are the dimensions of your laybin
That method is used all the time there’s nothing wrong with it why suggest it and for your question why ask it lol it’s a 5 gal bucket filled half way
 

Redstrat951

New Member
you should make her lay bin a permanent part of her enclosure. it will be more useful like that, what are the dimensions of your laybin
I did have one in her cage for the past couple months. She never touched it.
So I basically trapped her in the bucket.
She finished last night. I'll do an egg count and keep you guys updated. Thanks.
 

Thehippie

Chameleon Enthusiast
im asking because the minimum for a lay bin should be 12x12x12, im sorry not all of us know how big a 5 gallon bucket is

That method is used all the time there’s nothing wrong with it why suggest it and for your question why ask it lol it’s a 5 gal bucket filled half way
by making it a permanent part of her enclosure it will give her the time to what she wants when she wants instead of just forcing her to lay.

I did have one in her cage for the past couple months. She never touched it.
So I basically trapped her in the bucket.
She finished last night. I'll do an egg count and keep you guys updated. Thanks.
 

Dave85731

Established Member
Really who cares? I mean you already got @jannb on it no one else cared to criticize on how this person was doing their thing... the Cham was already digging I’m just using you as a example lol but people are starting to get out of hand on here with all this “I know it all” shit
 

Thehippie

Chameleon Enthusiast
no that is perfectly normal slightly large. feeding her a little less would reduce the amt of eggs now that she is done laying you should give her a lot of calcium.
 

ERKleRose

Chameleon Enthusiast
  • Your Chameleon - Zelda. Female veiled, 8 months old
  • Handling - Just for feeding everyday. She comes to me. Sometimes let her hang out on decorative plants.
  • Feeding - I feed 5 medium crickets a day and feed 5 meal worms on days I don't have crickets. Which is usually once or twice a week.I use flukers gut load for crickets.
  • Supplements - I use reptivite calcium supplement at least 5 times a week by dusting.
  • Watering - I mist the cage myself after feeding, one good time a day. Humidity stays around 70%
  • Fecal Description - Poop is brown with white urate. Never tested for parasite.
Cage Info:
  • Cage Type - Screen cage, 36x24 I believe.
  • Lighting - reptisum 5.0 UV, 60 watt heat lamp
  • Temperature - Around 85 °F basking and 70° at bottom of cage. I have a thermometer on top and bottom.
  • Humidity- Usually around 70%, goes up when I mist cage
  • Plants - One croton Petra with natural potting aoso.
  • Placement - By the window, close to air vent I keep closed. 2 feet off ground.
  • Location - Chattanooga TN
Hey everyone. My female is trying to lay eggs. She stopped eating the past 4 days so I took her out of her cage and put her in the laying bin. She's digging a good hole but she's still face first in the hole and she's been at it for 6 hours. I don't want to disturb her.
Should I leave her in over night ?
Here's pictures of laying bin and her in the hole.
Also I have her in a home Depot bucket because she wouldn't even acknowledge the bin I put in her cage. So I just stuck her in and she finally started to dig.
I’d make some changes to your husbandry and recommend reading the veiled caresheet here in the resources tab if you haven’t already. Don’t feed mealworms, there are so many better options. Fluker’s gutload isn’t good, use either organic fresh fruits and veggies (there’s a gutload list here in the food and nutrition tab in resources) and/or a quality commercial gutload, like Cricket Crack, Pangea Gutload, or Repashy Bug Burger. There are many ways to supplement:
1-phosphorous free calcium without D3 every feeding (like Zoo Med ReptiCalcium without D3), phosphorous free calcium with D3 every two weeks (like Zoo Med ReptiCalcium with D3), and a multivitamin without D3 every two weeks (like Zoo Med Reptivite without D3)
2-phosphorous free calcium without D3 every feeding (like Zoo Med ReptiCalcium without D3) and a multivitamin with D3 every two weeks (like Zoo Med Reptivite with D3)
3-an all in one supplement every feeding (like Sticky Tongue Farms Minerall Indoor-make sure to gutload the feeders you’ll feed off the night before or a few hours before with the wet version of Sticky Tongue Farms Vitall if using Minerall)
4-Arcadia supplements using the Arcadia insectivore supplement schedule off of their website
Pro tip-add in some bee pollen dust every dusting for extra nutrients! How long do you mist for? It should be a minimum of 2 minutes long. Is your uvb linear or a compact coil?
 
Top Bottom