Egg Laying

M

mybentley2010

New Member
Hello I have a chameleon I adopted from the local petco because she had a bad eye so they wanted to get rid of her but my question is I have had her for over a month. She definitely won't let me handle her and I have to feed her because she won't eat out of anything I put in her cage I don't know if it's related to her eyesight or what. She is also about 8 Months old we have had her for a month and her belly is getting bigger and I think she has eggs but will not go to the bottom of the enclosure. I have a large laying bin and live plants surrounding. I have picked her up and put her in it but she just ran back up to the top. I'm afraid she is got to get egg bound. Any suggestions would be helpful. I don't know if it's because of her vision. She is blind in one eye but when we had a smaller enclosure she would go to the bottom so I'm lost and the only thing she will eat on her own is organic potting soil... and yes I put calcium powder on all feedings and multivitamin 2 x weekly
 
Hi and welcome. :) I have a ton of questions for you, but let’s start relatively simple. I’d really like to see some recent and clear pics of your girl, as well as of your entire enclosure, including the lights. Has she received veterinary care for her eyes? What specific supplements are you using? You can post pics of them, which is probably easiest.
 
MissSkittles said:
Hi and welcome. :) I have a ton of questions for you, but let’s start relatively simple. I’d really like to see some recent and clear pics of your girl, as well as of your entire enclosure, including the lights. Has she received veterinary care for her eyes? What specific supplements are you using? You can post pics of them, which is probably easiest.
Click to expand...
 
MissSkittles said:
Hi and welcome. :) I have a ton of questions for you, but let’s start relatively simple. I’d really like to see some recent and clear pics of your girl, as well as of your entire enclosure, including the lights. Has she received veterinary care for her eyes? What specific supplements are you using? You can post pics of them, which is probably easiest.
Click to expand...
Thank you! I'm trying to post photos but it's not letting me for some reason
 
MissSkittles said:
Hi and welcome. :) I have a ton of questions for you, but let’s start relatively simple. I’d really like to see some recent and clear pics of your girl, as well as of your entire enclosure, including the lights. Has she received veterinary care for her eyes? What specific supplements are you using? You can post pics of them, which is probably easiest.
Click to expand...
 
16968106528105160196880720254103.jpg
 
We have not taken her to the vet for the eye because I spoke to the vet that was taking care of her while at the pet store and the employee at the pet store and they said they tried an ointment and antibiotic and nothing really worked and her eye has been this was since she was small.
 
Your very pretty lady does look a bit plump and I’m not sure what her colors are saying, but she could very well be gravid. I can’t see your lay bin and am I correct in assuming you have the bottom portion of her enclosure covered to give her privacy? Ideally, the lay bin should be around 12” wide, long and if possible, deep. You want to fill it to about 5-6” deep with washed play sand that is kept moist enough to hold a tunnel without collapsing. I drill tiny holes in the bottom so water can drain as needed. Sand only leaks until it is set in place. Of course, you’ll need to provide some stable ways for her to get in/out. I try to provide a stable branch or vine and also have a pothos hanging down into it just in case. The lay bin should be kept as a permanent part of the enclosure. Try to find where she normally poos and avoid putting the bin there.
Even though she may currently be gravid, she may not yet be ready to lay her eggs. No need to put her in the bin, alter lighting or anything else. She knows the bin is there and when she is ready, she’ll get to it…or she might choose a plant instead. Our sweet girls are sometimes fussy and unpredictable. In the days leading up to being ready, her appetite may decrease and she may start moving around more and exploring the lower area of her enclosure. At this time, get something ready to cover the bottom half of the enclosure to give her as much privacy as possible without blocking ventilation. One morning you’ll find she’s in the bin and digging. Do NOT disturb her for anything less than the house being on fire. She must have privacy and if she sees anyone, she may stop digging. She may dig a few different spots until she is happy with one. She may sleep in her tunnel or may return to a branch for the night. Keep your regular lighting schedule. If you hand mist, instead set up a dripper, but not over the bin. A plastic cup with a pinhole in it makes a great dripper. No need to worry about feeding her. The whole process can take a couple of days. You’ll know she’s done when she’s basking and all of her tunnels are well covered.
Feed and hydrate her very well for the next couple of days. Silkworms and hornworms are awesome at this time. Then, you’ll want to start her on ‘the regimen’ which will help reduce her egg production and laying and thereby prolong her life. Feed 3-4 feeders, 3 days a week plus occasional treats. Keep basking temp no higher than 80. It’s quite simple and while results vary, it’s very effective for most.
Signs that she is distressed an in need of veterinary care urgently are: lethargy - not basking, staying on the bottom or low in the enclosure, both eyes closed during the day, not eating or drinking (many chams are secretive about drinking though), ‘dropping’ eggs randomly around her enclosure, appearing to be straining to push and blood coming from anywhere. Too often chameleons don’t show any signs that anything is wrong until too late or close to it. This is why it’s important not to delay getting her to a good vet who has experience with chameleons, and if need be, can perform a spay surgery to remove the eggs and save her life. Always research and know the vets in your area that you may need.
Generally, as long as husbandry has been correct, the risks of complications with egg laying are reduced. Right now, as long as she isn’t showing signs of distress, give her time to be ready to lay. In the meantime, let’s talk more and make sure that all of your husbandry is as perfect as possible.
 
As you can tell, I talk a lot. 😁 I really want to make sure that you’ve got everything as right and perfect as you can for your sweet little lady with the pretty pink gloves. Here come all the questions below. Do your best to answer. I do have concerns about your supplements already. The calcium is perfect. The liquid multivitamin isn’t. I am wondering if your girl’s eye problem is possibly related to a vitamin A deficiency, as not all sources of vitamin A are the same. Also, multivitamins should only be given once every two weeks and I don’t see that you’re giving any D3, which would also be every other week. What I suggest is a combination product of either Repashy calcium Plus LoD or Reptivite with D3. Either one of those is fantastic and would be used just one feeding every other week. The calcium without D3 you’d continue to use for every feeding.
Chameleon Info:
  • Your Chameleon - The species, sex, and age of your chameleon. How long has it been in your care?
  • Handling - How often do you handle your chameleon?
  • Feeding - What are you feeding your cham? What amount? What is the schedule? How are you gut-loading your feeders?
  • Supplements - What brand and type of calcium and vitamin products are you dusting your feeders with and what is the schedule?
  • Watering - What kind of watering technique do you use? How often and how long to you mist? Do you see your chameleon drinking?
  • Fecal Description - Briefly note colors and consistency from recent droppings. Has this chameleon ever been tested for parasites?
  • History - Any previous information about your cham that might be useful to others when trying to help you.

Cage Info:
  • Cage Type - Describe your cage (Glass, Screen, Combo?) What are the dimensions?
  • Lighting - What brand, model, and types of lighting are you using? What is your daily lighting schedule?
  • Temperature - What temp range have you created (cage floor to basking spot)? Lowest overnight temp? How do you measure these temps?
  • Humidity - What are your humidity levels? How are you creating and maintaining these levels? What do you use to measure humidity?
  • Plants - Are you using live plants? If so, what kind?
  • Placement - Where is your cage located? Is it near any fans, air vents, or high traffic areas? At what height is the top of the cage relative to your room floor?
  • Location - Where are you geographically located?

Current Problem - The current problem you are concerned about.

--------------

Please Note:
  1. The more details you provide the better and more accurate help you will receive.
  2. Photos can be very helpful.
 
MissSkittles said:
Your very pretty lady does look a bit plump and I’m not sure what her colors are saying, but she could very well be gravid. I can’t see your lay bin and am I correct in assuming you have the bottom portion of her enclosure covered to give her privacy? Ideally, the lay bin should be around 12” wide, long and if possible, deep. You want to fill it to about 5-6” deep with washed play sand that is kept moist enough to hold a tunnel without collapsing. I drill tiny holes in the bottom so water can drain as needed. Sand only leaks until it is set in place. Of course, you’ll need to provide some stable ways for her to get in/out. I try to provide a stable branch or vine and also have a pothos hanging down into it just in case. The lay bin should be kept as a permanent part of the enclosure. Try to find where she normally poos and avoid putting the bin there.
Even though she may currently be gravid, she may not yet be ready to lay her eggs. No need to put her in the bin, alter lighting or anything else. She knows the bin is there and when she is ready, she’ll get to it…or she might choose a plant instead. Our sweet girls are sometimes fussy and unpredictable. In the days leading up to being ready, her appetite may decrease and she may start moving around more and exploring the lower area of her enclosure. At this time, get something ready to cover the bottom half of the enclosure to give her as much privacy as possible without blocking ventilation. One morning you’ll find she’s in the bin and digging. Do NOT disturb her for anything less than the house being on fire. She must have privacy and if she sees anyone, she may stop digging. She may dig a few different spots until she is happy with one. She may sleep in her tunnel or may return to a branch for the night. Keep your regular lighting schedule. If you hand mist, instead set up a dripper, but not over the bin. A plastic cup with a pinhole in it makes a great dripper. No need to worry about feeding her. The whole process can take a couple of days. You’ll know she’s done when she’s basking and all of her tunnels are well covered.
Feed and hydrate her very well for the next couple of days. Silkworms and hornworms are awesome at this time. Then, you’ll want to start her on ‘the regimen’ which will help reduce her egg production and laying and thereby prolong her life. Feed 3-4 feeders, 3 days a week plus occasional treats. Keep basking temp no higher than 80. It’s quite simple and while results vary, it’s very effective for most.
Signs that she is distressed an in need of veterinary care urgently are: lethargy - not basking, staying on the bottom or low in the enclosure, both eyes closed during the day, not eating or drinking (many chams are secretive about drinking though), ‘dropping’ eggs randomly around her enclosure, appearing to be straining to push and blood coming from anywhere. Too often chameleons don’t show any signs that anything is wrong until too late or close to it. This is why it’s important not to delay getting her to a good vet who has experience with chameleons, and if need be, can perform a spay surgery to remove the eggs and save her life. Always research and know the vets in your area that you may need.
Generally, as long as husbandry has been correct, the risks of complications with egg laying are reduced. Right now, as long as she isn’t showing signs of distress, give her time to be ready to lay. In the meantime, let’s talk more and make sure that all of your husbandry is as perfect as possible.
Click to expand...
Thank you. I never see her eat, I feed her by tongs daily. And I have never seen her drink but she has two water sources and she may when im not around. Lighting the bottom helped and she has been going down more but hasn't been in her laying bin. I bought her a large bin that is about the size of a large shoebox and put organic soil in it because I don't know where to buy the sand. She was mad because I opened the door and got close to take pictures that's why she was that color but she is usually light green most of the time. Do they always dig when they lay eggs because the other day I watched her when she pooped and it looked like after she was done an egg was half way hanging out or something was hanging but then never dropped. I'm not very familiar with the process. I'm sure she does have eggs though because when I set up her bin I picked her up and put her in it and I felt her belly and it felt like there is. She didn't stay long in the bin but I read where if you put them in it they at least know where it is. She eats a lot of soil also that's all I ever see her eat unless I'm feeding her so I don't know if that's normal or not. I'm kind of at a loss with her.
 
mybentley2010 said:
Thank you. I never see her eat, I feed her by tongs daily. And I have never seen her drink but she has two water sources and she may when im not around. Lighting the bottom helped and she has been going down more but hasn't been in her laying bin. I bought her a large bin that is about the size of a large shoebox and put organic soil in it because I don't know where to buy the sand. She was mad because I opened the door and got close to take pictures that's why she was that color but she is usually light green most of the time. Do they always dig when they lay eggs because the other day I watched her when she pooped and it looked like after she was done an egg was half way hanging out or something was hanging but then never dropped. I'm not very familiar with the process. I'm sure she does have eggs though because when I set up her bin I picked her up and put her in it and I felt her belly and it felt like there is. She didn't stay long in the bin but I read where if you put them in it they at least know where it is. She eats a lot of soil also that's all I ever see her eat unless I'm feeding her so I don't know if that's normal or not. I'm kind of at a loss with her.
Click to expand...
 
MissSkittles said:
As you can tell, I talk a lot. 😁 I really want to make sure that you’ve got everything as right and perfect as you can for your sweet little lady with the pretty pink gloves. Here come all the questions below. Do your best to answer. I do have concerns about your supplements already. The calcium is perfect. The liquid multivitamin isn’t. I am wondering if your girl’s eye problem is possibly related to a vitamin A deficiency, as not all sources of vitamin A are the same. Also, multivitamins should only be given once every two weeks and I don’t see that you’re giving any D3, which would also be every other week. What I suggest is a combination product of either Repashy calcium Plus LoD or Reptivite with D3. Either one of those is fantastic and would be used just one feeding every other week. The calcium without D3 you’d continue to use for every feeding.
Chameleon Info:
  • Your Chameleon - The species, sex, and age of your chameleon. How long has it been in your care?
  • Handling - How often do you handle your chameleon?
  • Feeding - What are you feeding your cham? What amount? What is the schedule? How are you gut-loading your feeders?
  • Supplements - What brand and type of calcium and vitamin products are you dusting your feeders with and what is the schedule?
  • Watering - What kind of watering technique do you use? How often and how long to you mist? Do you see your chameleon drinking?
  • Fecal Description - Briefly note colors and consistency from recent droppings. Has this chameleon ever been tested for parasites?
  • History - Any previous information about your cham that might be useful to others when trying to help you.

Cage Info:
  • Cage Type - Describe your cage (Glass, Screen, Combo?) What are the dimensions?
  • Lighting - What brand, model, and types of lighting are you using? What is your daily lighting schedule?
  • Temperature - What temp range have you created (cage floor to basking spot)? Lowest overnight temp? How do you measure these temps?
  • Humidity - What are your humidity levels? How are you creating and maintaining these levels? What do you use to measure humidity?
  • Plants - Are you using live plants? If so, what kind?
  • Placement - Where is your cage located? Is it near any fans, air vents, or high traffic areas? At what height is the top of the cage relative to your room floor?
  • Location - Where are you geographically located?

Current Problem - The current problem you are concerned about.

--------------

Please Note:
  1. The more details you provide the better and more accurate help you will receive.
  2. Photos can be very helpful.
Click to expand...
She is a female possibly 8 months, the store told me they thought she was 7 months when we got her so unsure what her age really is, I have only handled her 3x once when we brought her home, then when we put her in her new bigger home and once to put her in her laying bin. She hates being held and hisses at me when I get near her so the only thing I really bug her about is eating she hisses when I feed her also but if I don't she won't eat what I put in there. The store told me she hurt her eye but they didn't know how and that her eye has been like that for a few months and was treated by a vet and nothing worked so they said she is pretty much blind in it. I have a t5 light as well as a basking bulb I can't remember but it was the most expensive one and the one the employee told me they required, lights are on 12 hours and off 12 hours, I feed her by tongs as much as she will allow which isn't a ton maybe 4 mealworms and 3 waxworms. If I don't feed her she doesn't eat because I count what I put in her enclosure. She does have crickets occasionally as well. I dust them all with calcium and give her multivitamin drops 2x weekly, her temp at top is 80 degrees and bottom is 75 degrees, night is between 60 to 65 sometimes lower. I have temp cages throughout her enclosure. Daytime her humidity is around 50 to 60 and night 80 to 100 I also have humidity monitors throughout, I use all live plants I don't know the names of all of them but the big one is the golden pothos , I looked all of them up and they were all safe and all were washed with soap and water and replanted in organic soil before placement, we are located in Twin falls, Idaho. Her poop is occasionally hard and solid brown but them after she will poop a moist solid white? Our cage is all screen 4ft tall I did cover two sides to help keep in moisture.
 
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