My chameleon's name is Merlin and he was a Valentines Day gift from my fiance last year. I have filled out this questionaire to get help. The problem i am facing is located at the end of my help form. Thanks in advance everyone!
Chameleon Info:
• Your Chameleon – Panther Chameleon, male, approx. 1.5 years old. In my possession since shortly after birth.
• Handling – When he was younger he wasn’t handled very often, as he got older it seemed he would come toward me when I came to the cage so handling was up to 3 times or so per week for short periods of time, no more than 5 minutes at a time and sitting in one place, not walking around with him.
• Feeding – I feed him crickets only. He will not touch any other worms. I gutload my crickets with Flucker’s “High-Calcium” Cricket Diet and I powder them once a week with Zoo Med’s “Reptivite with D3”. I feed him about 10 or so medium sized crickets a day in the morning. He usually eats all but like 3 or 4.
• Supplements – Once a week I dust my feeders with Zoo Med’s “Reptevite with D3”
• Watering – I have a misting system in place that mists every hour for 30 seconds. I also manually mist about twice a day using bottled water only, no tap water. I do see him drinking in the mornings usually.
• Fecal Description – Fecal matter is usually white and slightly orange with urate accompanying it. He has never been tested for parasites.
• History – He was to the vet once when he was 6 months old for an eye infection. The vet gave me an antibiotic cream to put on it and it healed up fine.
Cage Info:
• Cage Type – 48 X 24 X 24 cage enclosure from DIYcages.com
• Lighting – Lighting includes one 18” Repti sun 5.0 UVB Florescent Bulb, one 75w blue daytime basking bulb. Daily lighting schedule: all lights go on at 8am and off at 8pm
• Temperature – High temp:90 basking spot/top of cage. Low temp:68 bottom of cage. Lowest overnight temp around 65. All temps measured by digital thermometers.
• Humidity – Humidity levels between 50 and 60. Keep a covered water dish with a perforated lid as well as the misting system to maintain humidity. Humidity is measured with a humidity gauge in the middle of the cage.
• Plants – No live plants are being used. All plants are artificial.
• Placement – The cage is located in my room in the finished basement of my house. Not near any fan or high traffic areas. There is an electric wall heater located on the same wall 3 feet away that circulates heat throughout the room periodically. The cage sits on my carpeted floor.
• Location – I live in Eastern Pennsylvania.
Problem: Currently my chameleon has been sleeping during the day. He doesn’t want to open his eyes to look at me or to eat. I just noticed today his lack of appetite; he has been eating fine previously. I had him out today and he walked around my arms like normal, maybe a bit slower. He found a comfy spot on my arms and closed his eyes. I put him back in his cage and he climbed across a vine and closed his eyes yet again. I am worried about him. Any help would be appreciated. Thank you!
Chameleon Info:
• Your Chameleon – Panther Chameleon, male, approx. 1.5 years old. In my possession since shortly after birth.
• Handling – When he was younger he wasn’t handled very often, as he got older it seemed he would come toward me when I came to the cage so handling was up to 3 times or so per week for short periods of time, no more than 5 minutes at a time and sitting in one place, not walking around with him.
• Feeding – I feed him crickets only. He will not touch any other worms. I gutload my crickets with Flucker’s “High-Calcium” Cricket Diet and I powder them once a week with Zoo Med’s “Reptivite with D3”. I feed him about 10 or so medium sized crickets a day in the morning. He usually eats all but like 3 or 4.
• Supplements – Once a week I dust my feeders with Zoo Med’s “Reptevite with D3”
• Watering – I have a misting system in place that mists every hour for 30 seconds. I also manually mist about twice a day using bottled water only, no tap water. I do see him drinking in the mornings usually.
• Fecal Description – Fecal matter is usually white and slightly orange with urate accompanying it. He has never been tested for parasites.
• History – He was to the vet once when he was 6 months old for an eye infection. The vet gave me an antibiotic cream to put on it and it healed up fine.
Cage Info:
• Cage Type – 48 X 24 X 24 cage enclosure from DIYcages.com
• Lighting – Lighting includes one 18” Repti sun 5.0 UVB Florescent Bulb, one 75w blue daytime basking bulb. Daily lighting schedule: all lights go on at 8am and off at 8pm
• Temperature – High temp:90 basking spot/top of cage. Low temp:68 bottom of cage. Lowest overnight temp around 65. All temps measured by digital thermometers.
• Humidity – Humidity levels between 50 and 60. Keep a covered water dish with a perforated lid as well as the misting system to maintain humidity. Humidity is measured with a humidity gauge in the middle of the cage.
• Plants – No live plants are being used. All plants are artificial.
• Placement – The cage is located in my room in the finished basement of my house. Not near any fan or high traffic areas. There is an electric wall heater located on the same wall 3 feet away that circulates heat throughout the room periodically. The cage sits on my carpeted floor.
• Location – I live in Eastern Pennsylvania.
Problem: Currently my chameleon has been sleeping during the day. He doesn’t want to open his eyes to look at me or to eat. I just noticed today his lack of appetite; he has been eating fine previously. I had him out today and he walked around my arms like normal, maybe a bit slower. He found a comfy spot on my arms and closed his eyes. I put him back in his cage and he climbed across a vine and closed his eyes yet again. I am worried about him. Any help would be appreciated. Thank you!
Here are some links to the multivitamin and plain calcium. Maybe try gutloading your crickets with leafy greens like collard or mustard greens, carrots, apples, oranges. That way your chamy gets all the good stuff 
