Correct supplements

What strength is the bulb (5.0 or 10.0)? Is the 10" from UVB bulb to baking branch or to the top of the cage?
It is a 5.0, I was told if it's a 4x4' cage then you wouldn't need anything past a 5.0. The branch is 10" from UVB bulb to basking branch- my vet said 10-12" was a good height. Unless do you think it should be further down because I can move it, if so?
 
Ok please send that later so I can see... I need to know the bulb strength as well.

Per the dusting... No I would not use the repashy calcium plus... What is the multivitamin you have?
Okay thank you, for supplements I use the Fluker's calcium without d3 that is phosphorus free every feed, I used to use Zoo Med but I was told that supplement isn't very good. I use Rep-Cal Herptivite multivitamins and Rep-Cal phos free calcium with d3, twice monthly.
 
I wondered about primary hyperparathyroidism too. That and tumors account for 90% of cases of hypercalcemia in humans.
I can’t find any literature on primary hyperparathyroidism in reptiles, only secondary dietary hyperparathyroidism (MBD) and secondary renal hyperparathyroidism due to kidney dysfunction.
hypervitaminosis D can also cause hypercalcemia

looking at the Cham you have a few noticeable signs/symptoms
Hypercalcemia. Which could be related to supplements, MBD, or renal dysfunction (or something more rare)
Cask swelling. I think obesity is a reasonable cause given feeding regimen. As you mentioned, this could lead to multiple organ dysfunction. Obesity is one of the most dangerous diseases on the planet contributing to a huge variety of diseases and mortality
Deformation in the cask. While there may be other causes, MBD seems the most likely culprit

I think you need to look over husbandry in general. Supplementation needs to be dialed in. I don’t see a reason at this point to go away from a standard of calcium no D3 most feedings and a multivitamin with D3 a couple times a month, and don’t think giving more dietary D3 is a good idea since that could lead to hypervitaminosis D and more hypercalcemia. Definitely need to reduce feeding to hopefully get obesity under control. Check on lights/heat for to ensure proper endogenous D3 production. Last, take a good look at the hydration routine and status of the Cham. Dehydration could lead to acute or chronic renal failure

hope some of that helps 😊
Thank you! I will cut down on his food and only feed him 2-3 times weekly and dust with the Calcium without d3 then. I'll do the D3 and Multivitamins twice monthly and hopefully he gets better! Fingers crossed 🤞🏻 thank you for your help!
 
It is a 5.0, I was told if it's a 4x4' cage then you wouldn't need anything past a 5.0. The branch is 10" from UVB bulb to basking branch- my vet said 10-12" was a good height. Unless do you think it should be further down because I can move it, if so?
You want the distance from UVB bulb to basking branch to be 8-9" away. If you can afford a Solarmeter 6.5 to more accurately check UVI levels, that'd be great!
 
That is the recommended distance for T5 HO 5.0 and 6% bulbs when over a screen top cage, since the screen filters out some of the UVB. Getting a Solarmeter 6.5 is much more accurate, though
I will look into getting a Solarmeter 6.5 then! Thank you, what other lighting source do you use for your chameleons besides the T5 HO 5.0 or 6% bulbs?
 
There are different strengths of bulbs and other types of bulbs, but for a beginner, it's safest to stick to Zoo Med ReptiSun 5.0 (replace every 6 months) or Arcadia 6% (replace yearly) bulbs. The Solarmeter 6.5 will also tell you when you actually need to replace your UVB bulb, as well (when the readings are cut in half from when you first got the bulb).
 
There are different strengths of bulbs and other types of bulbs, but for a beginner, it's safest to stick to Zoo Med ReptiSun 5.0 (replace every 6 months) or Arcadia 6% (replace yearly) bulbs. The Solarmeter 6.5 will also tell you when you actually need to replace your UVB bulb, as well (when the readings are cut in half from when you first got the bulb).
I currently have the T5 HO 5.0 UVB light and hood that I got a few months back at Repticon. However, I still use the daylight blue 60W bulb for heat/UVA.. do I need this bulb still or is there a better heating/UVA bulb than this one?
 
I currently have the T5 HO 5.0 UVB light and hood that I got a few months back at Repticon. However, I still use the daylight blue 60W bulb for heat/UVA.. do I need this bulb still or is there a better heating/UVA bulb than this one?
You'll want to replace the blue bulb with a regular white light incandescent house bulb
 
Okay thank you, for supplements I use the Fluker's calcium without d3 that is phosphorus free every feed, I used to use Zoo Med but I was told that supplement isn't very good. I use Rep-Cal Herptivite multivitamins and Rep-Cal phos free calcium with d3, twice monthly.
Ok so Herptivite does not have vitamin A in it. So just watch to make sure he does not have issues hitting his food. D3 would be given 2 times a month and the multivitamin 2 times a month. So your rotation for the month would look like something like this.

Mon Calcium without D3, Wed Cal without D3, Friday Calcium with D3
Mon Calcium without D3, Wed Cal without D3, Friday mulitvitamin
Mon Calcium without D3, Wed Cal without D3, Friday Calcium with D3
Mon Calcium without D3, Wed Cal without D3, Friday Multivitamin
 
Ok so Herptivite does not have vitamin A in it. So just watch to make sure he does not have issues hitting his food. D3 would be given 2 times a month and the multivitamin 2 times a month. So your rotation for the month would look like something like this.

Mon Calcium without D3, Wed Cal without D3, Friday Calcium with D3
Mon Calcium without D3, Wed Cal without D3, Friday mulitvitamin
Mon Calcium without D3, Wed Cal without D3, Friday Calcium with D3
Mon Calcium without D3, Wed Cal without D3, Friday Multivitamin
That's what I was doing before except I was dusting without d3 at every feeding, which was everyday. Hopefully cutting him down on some food and alternating the days, fixes the calcium levels and swelling in his casque and cheeks! I'll keep you updated :) thank you for all your help!
 
That's what I was doing before except I was dusting without d3 at every feeding, which was everyday. Hopefully cutting him down on some food and alternating the days, fixes the calcium levels and swelling in his casque and cheeks! I'll keep you updated :) thank you for all your help!
Cutting him down on food is going to allow him to drop weight which yes will reduce the fat in his casque and cheeks. I just want to make sure you understand this is not a supplement thing this is an obesity thing. So being strict 2 medium feeders 3 days a week only is how he will start reducing weight. This is also a slow process same as with a human.
 
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