Concerned about my cham

Kushcham

Established Member
Chameleon Info:
Your Chameleon - 8.5 month old, male panther chameleon
Handling - Maybe once per week while maintaining his enclosure
Feeding - Daily-crickets and dubia, 3x per week-hornworms, 1x per week superworms or waxworms? He eats about 6-10 crickets or roaches per day, maybe 2-5 (1-1.2") hornworms per week, maybe 1-2 superworms per week/week and a half, maybe 5 waxworms per week? He is fed around 8am daily. Fed via Firehouse Geckos feeder run cup but definetely prefers tong feeding (which I know the risk and don't like doing it, but for some reason he is always more eager to eat from my tongs...please note that this is done VERY carefully with minimal grip on the feeder and move the tongs in a way that reduces his risk of coming in contact with tongs. His aim is always on point. All feeders are given kale, carrots, sweet red peppers, sweet potatoes, some apples and mango, Respashy's Bug Burger, and Lugarti's Dubia diet for dry food. All food is changed out every other day.
Supplements - Every feeding I dust with Arcadia Earth Pro A and twice monthly I use Reptivite with D3 every other Saturday
Watering - I try to follow the hydration schedule posted on the chameleonacademy. I use Mist King for watering and ReptiFogger to help with nighttime humidity. During the day I will use a dripper.
Fecal Description - Large white urate and a nice hydrated. But lately have been a little more runny and not as often. Thought could be because of me often feeding hornworms.
History - He has always shown interest in getting to the soil of my live plants. All plants are repotted, roots and leaves washed, and replaced with organic soil.

Cage Info:
Cage Type - 36x18x26 Exo terra converted to a 3 sided hybrid with DragonLedges
Lighting - 22" Arcadia fixture with Arcadia 6% t5ho bulb, 22" Arcadia Jungle Dawn LED, 75 watt basking bulb, and one additional 6500k led bulb in a dome. Each light turns on and off with a 5 mins delay apart using smart plug timer schedule.
Temperature - Basking branch is about 8 inches below bulb and temps around 85, opposite end of cage temps 77-80 up top, bottom temps at 70 (bulb in resting on wire rack above enclosure. Lowest overnight temp is 65-66 degrees. I have two small Govee hygrometers and and digital display one as well.
Humidity - Daytime low is 42-50%. I run nighttime fog in 20 min intervals starting at 1am, 3am, 5am, and 6am along with a misting schedule of 1am, 3am, 5am, 6am, 7pm and 8pm for 1 min intervals. I have 3 pothos and 3 Schefflera
Placement - Located in my home office. It does receive some foot traffic? It is not near any vents of window. The bottom of the cage is 35" off the ground on a metal rack.
Location - About an hour NorthEast of Sacramento, CA?

Current Problem - Recently (over the last 2-3 weeks) he has stopped coming out of his sleep spot (hidden deep in the large pothos under the mister) when lights come on. I usually drop fresh feeders in his cup around 8am every morning and he was always waiting in front of his cup like "where's my food human" Now he may come out of his spot when I go in to do something in his cage but otherwise he could stay in a large portion of the day. He has also spent more time hanging out at the bottom and even floor walking that bare bottom which has had me concerned. Since this morning he had not pooped for 3 days. The two poops before today were rather runny. Todays was a little better but still a bit on the runny side. He is eating about 8 crickets a day and a hornworm every couple days. Lately he has been ignoring the dubia unless I move one onto a branch with my tongs and get it moving. His grip strength is strong, his colors look ok. I am not seeing any major signs of visual distress. He has also been very interested in eating plant soil. I have had to cover all plants with fiberglass screen and put large river rocks over the top. So he will often patrol down and see if he can still find a way into the soil. At this point I am concerned of maybe parasites from one of the times I've been in a pinch a needed Petsmart crickets or some other means. If advised a vet visit is necessary, could someone recommended one in the area? I will include photos of setup and my cham
 

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Chameleon Info:
Your Chameleon - 8.5 month old, male panther chameleon
Handling - Maybe once per week while maintaining his enclosure
Feeding - Daily-crickets and dubia, 3x per week-hornworms, 1x per week superworms or waxworms? He eats about 6-10 crickets or roaches per day, maybe 2-5 (1-1.2") hornworms per week, maybe 1-2 superworms per week/week and a half, maybe 5 waxworms per week? He is fed around 8am daily. Fed via Firehouse Geckos feeder run cup but definetely prefers tong feeding (which I know the risk and don't like doing it, but for some reason he is always more eager to eat from my tongs...please note that this is done VERY carefully with minimal grip on the feeder and move the tongs in a way that reduces his risk of coming in contact with tongs. His aim is always on point. All feeders are given kale, carrots, sweet red peppers, sweet potatoes, some apples and mango, Respashy's Bug Burger, and Lugarti's Dubia diet for dry food. All food is changed out every other day.
Supplements - Every feeding I dust with Arcadia Earth Pro A and twice monthly I use Reptivite with D3 every other Saturday
Watering - I try to follow the hydration schedule posted on the chameleonacademy. I use Mist King for watering and ReptiFogger to help with nighttime humidity. During the day I will use a dripper.
Fecal Description - Large white urate and a nice hydrated. But lately have been a little more runny and not as often. Thought could be because of me often feeding hornworms.
History - He has always shown interest in getting to the soil of my live plants. All plants are repotted, roots and leaves washed, and replaced with organic soil.

Cage Info:
Cage Type - 36x18x26 Exo terra converted to a 3 sided hybrid with DragonLedges
Lighting - 22" Arcadia fixture with Arcadia 6% t5ho bulb, 22" Arcadia Jungle Dawn LED, 75 watt basking bulb, and one additional 6500k led bulb in a dome. Each light turns on and off with a 5 mins delay apart using smart plug timer schedule.
Temperature - Basking branch is about 8 inches below bulb and temps around 85, opposite end of cage temps 77-80 up top, bottom temps at 70 (bulb in resting on wire rack above enclosure. Lowest overnight temp is 65-66 degrees. I have two small Govee hygrometers and and digital display one as well.
Humidity - Daytime low is 42-50%. I run nighttime fog in 20 min intervals starting at 1am, 3am, 5am, and 6am along with a misting schedule of 1am, 3am, 5am, 6am, 7pm and 8pm for 1 min intervals. I have 3 pothos and 3 Schefflera
Placement - Located in my home office. It does receive some foot traffic? It is not near any vents of window. The bottom of the cage is 35" off the ground on a metal rack.
Location - About an hour NorthEast of Sacramento, CA?

Current Problem - Recently (over the last 2-3 weeks) he has stopped coming out of his sleep spot (hidden deep in the large pothos under the mister) when lights come on. I usually drop fresh feeders in his cup around 8am every morning and he was always waiting in front of his cup like "where's my food human" Now he may come out of his spot when I go in to do something in his cage but otherwise he could stay in a large portion of the day. He has also spent more time hanging out at the bottom and even floor walking that bare bottom which has had me concerned. Since this morning he had not pooped for 3 days. The two poops before today were rather runny. Todays was a little better but still a bit on the runny side. He is eating about 8 crickets a day and a hornworm every couple days. Lately he has been ignoring the dubia unless I move one onto a branch with my tongs and get it moving. His grip strength is strong, his colors look ok. I am not seeing any major signs of visual distress. He has also been very interested in eating plant soil. I have had to cover all plants with fiberglass screen and put large river rocks over the top. So he will often patrol down and see if he can still find a way into the soil. At this point I am concerned of maybe parasites from one of the times I've been in a pinch a needed Petsmart crickets or some other means. If advised a vet visit is necessary, could someone recommended one in the area? I will include photos of setup and my cham
Hey!
I, unfortunately, am not an expert but I will tag some experts on the forum to see if they can help. @MissSkittles, @Beman, @kinyonga, @JacksJill. I hope they will be able to help!
 
Last edited:
Chameleon Info:
Your Chameleon - 8.5 month old, male panther chameleon
Handling - Maybe once per week while maintaining his enclosure
Feeding - Daily-crickets and dubia, 3x per week-hornworms, 1x per week superworms or waxworms? He eats about 6-10 crickets or roaches per day, maybe 2-5 (1-1.2") hornworms per week, maybe 1-2 superworms per week/week and a half, maybe 5 waxworms per week? He is fed around 8am daily. Fed via Firehouse Geckos feeder run cup but definetely prefers tong feeding (which I know the risk and don't like doing it, but for some reason he is always more eager to eat from my tongs...please note that this is done VERY carefully with minimal grip on the feeder and move the tongs in a way that reduces his risk of coming in contact with tongs. His aim is always on point. All feeders are given kale, carrots, sweet red peppers, sweet potatoes, some apples and mango, Respashy's Bug Burger, and Lugarti's Dubia diet for dry food. All food is changed out every other day.
Supplements - Every feeding I dust with Arcadia Earth Pro A and twice monthly I use Reptivite with D3 every other Saturday
Watering - I try to follow the hydration schedule posted on the chameleonacademy. I use Mist King for watering and ReptiFogger to help with nighttime humidity. During the day I will use a dripper.
Fecal Description - Large white urate and a nice hydrated. But lately have been a little more runny and not as often. Thought could be because of me often feeding hornworms.
History - He has always shown interest in getting to the soil of my live plants. All plants are repotted, roots and leaves washed, and replaced with organic soil.

Cage Info:
Cage Type - 36x18x26 Exo terra converted to a 3 sided hybrid with DragonLedges
Lighting - 22" Arcadia fixture with Arcadia 6% t5ho bulb, 22" Arcadia Jungle Dawn LED, 75 watt basking bulb, and one additional 6500k led bulb in a dome. Each light turns on and off with a 5 mins delay apart using smart plug timer schedule.
Temperature - Basking branch is about 8 inches below bulb and temps around 85, opposite end of cage temps 77-80 up top, bottom temps at 70 (bulb in resting on wire rack above enclosure. Lowest overnight temp is 65-66 degrees. I have two small Govee hygrometers and and digital display one as well.
Humidity - Daytime low is 42-50%. I run nighttime fog in 20 min intervals starting at 1am, 3am, 5am, and 6am along with a misting schedule of 1am, 3am, 5am, 6am, 7pm and 8pm for 1 min intervals. I have 3 pothos and 3 Schefflera
Placement - Located in my home office. It does receive some foot traffic? It is not near any vents of window. The bottom of the cage is 35" off the ground on a metal rack.
Location - About an hour NorthEast of Sacramento, CA?

Current Problem - Recently (over the last 2-3 weeks) he has stopped coming out of his sleep spot (hidden deep in the large pothos under the mister) when lights come on. I usually drop fresh feeders in his cup around 8am every morning and he was always waiting in front of his cup like "where's my food human" Now he may come out of his spot when I go in to do something in his cage but otherwise he could stay in a large portion of the day. He has also spent more time hanging out at the bottom and even floor walking that bare bottom which has had me concerned. Since this morning he had not pooped for 3 days. The two poops before today were rather runny. Todays was a little better but still a bit on the runny side. He is eating about 8 crickets a day and a hornworm every couple days. Lately he has been ignoring the dubia unless I move one onto a branch with my tongs and get it moving. His grip strength is strong, his colors look ok. I am not seeing any major signs of visual distress. He has also been very interested in eating plant soil. I have had to cover all plants with fiberglass screen and put large river rocks over the top. So he will often patrol down and see if he can still find a way into the soil. At this point I am concerned of maybe parasites from one of the times I've been in a pinch a needed Petsmart crickets or some other means. If advised a vet visit is necessary, could someone recommended one in the area? I will include photos of setup and my cham
Hiya! So one thing that jumped out at me immediately is you say you’re dusting with Pro A everyday. This should also be used once every other week just like the D3. You should be dusting every day with plain calcium without D3 or vitamin A to avoid an overdose. Has he ever been tested for parasites? Some don’t present until it’s too late. This could be the issue.
 
Hiya! So one thing that jumped out at me immediately is you say you’re dusting with Pro A everyday. This should also be used once every other week just like the D3. You should be dusting every day with plain calcium without D3 or vitamin A to avoid an overdose. Has he ever been tested for parasites? Some don’t present until it’s too late. This could be the issue.
Im confused. I followed this directly off of chameleonacademy.com

And no he has never been tested for parasites. I purchased him at the Sac Reptile Expo in September from Highlighter Chameleons
 

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Im confused. I followed this directly off of chameleonacademy.com

And no he has never been tested for parasites. I purchased him at the Sac Reptile Expo in September from Highlighter Chameleons
I can only go from my experience and my time on this forum. Though chameleon academy is a good resource, this info doesn’t seem exactly correct. I’m almost certain there’s also vitamin A in the repashy plus Lod. This means your cham is getting vitamin A at every single feeding, which is not ideal. I would definitely see if you could book him an appointment to test for parasites, but if you want to wait on it and adjust your husbandry to see if it makes a difference, it should be ok.
 
Im confused. I followed this directly off of chameleonacademy.com

And no he has never been tested for parasites. I purchased him at the Sac Reptile Expo in September from Highlighter Chameleons
I see that you are confused. You might be overdosing and this might be the cause as @Bazelthechameleon said. I would try their advice and maybe seek help from a reliable vet. There are thousands of possibilities just because chameleons are very hard to take care of. I would say that overdosing and parasites are the most likely in this situation.
 
I see that you are confused. You might be overdosing and this might be the cause as @Bazelthechameleon said. I would try their advice and maybe seek help from a reliable vet. There are thousands of possibilities just because chameleons are very hard to take care of.
No, I'm sorry that I'm confused as to why an excellent resource such as the chameleonacademy would give poor advice. I am well aware of what @Bazelthechameleon is saying. I am saying that I am following what Bill suggests on his website.

However to clarify I am not using the Repashys Calcium plus LoD. In my husbandry form a stated that I am using Reptivite
 
No, I'm sorry that I'm confused as to why an excellent resource such as the chameleonacademy would give poor advice. I am well aware of what @Bazelthechameleon is saying. I am saying that I am following what Bill suggests on his website.

However to clarify I am not using the Repashys Calcium plus LoD. In my husbandry form a stated that I am using Reptivite
Got it! Sorry! The LoD is what I use lol. But yes I would look into getting plain calcium. Also, chameleon husbandry is constantly being altered and improved as more knowledge is collected and studies are conducted. What’s on chameleon academy my very well have been correct a year or two ago but has been improved upon since. Maybe it just hasn’t been updated. Things are constantly changing.
 
Got it! Sorry! The LoD is what I use lol. But yes I would look into getting plain calcium. Also, chameleon husbandry is constantly being altered and improved as more knowledge is collected and studies are conducted. What’s on chameleon academy my very well have been correct a year or two ago but has been improved upon since. Maybe it just hasn’t been updated. Things are constantly changing.
I do agree with husbandry changing a lot in recent years. And while some of his information may be older, I do feel that Bill is diligent enough to comb back through old info and update assuming it was linked to causing issues. With that being said, I have only used to Arcadia EarthproA for about a month. Prior to that I was using Lugarti's Calcium w/o d3- phosphorus free. But do to his eagerness to seek out exposed soil, I decided to try Arcadia to see if he was missing some time of mineral.
 

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I do agree with husbandry changing a lot in recent years. And while some of his information may be older, I do feel that Bill is diligent enough to comb back through old info and update assuming it was linked to causing issues. With that being said, I have only used to Arcadia EarthproA for about a month. Prior to that I was using Lugarti's Calcium w/o d3- phosphorus free. But do to his eagerness to seek out exposed soil, I decided to try Arcadia to see if he was missing some time of mineral.
Thats great. I would try switching back to that and see if you notice a change of behavior. Ive never heard of a panther being so interested in soil. That’s a new one. Anyone have any thoughts on this behavior?
 
Thats great. I would try switching back to that and see if you notice a change of behavior. Ive never heard of a panther being so interested in soil. That’s a new one. Anyone have any thoughts on this behavior?
Yeah its strange. I've seen a few different theories on why but nothing really definitive. I have almost been tempted to just let him do it. He is trying for a reason. I have clean soil. I repot and wash all new plants down to the roots and repot in a mixture of all organic potting soil and a bioactive substrate. I feel like maybe he could just be trying to eat something to help push stuff through his digestive tract. But I'm still too fearful of impaction risk to uncover my soil.
 
I can only go from my experience and my time on this forum. Though chameleon academy is a good resource, this info doesn’t seem exactly correct. I’m almost certain there’s also vitamin A in the repashy plus Lod. This means your cham is getting vitamin A at every single feeding, which is not ideal. I would definitely see if you could book him an appointment to test for parasites, but if you want to wait on it and adjust your husbandry to see if it makes a difference, it should be ok.
You are incorrect. Earth pro A does not have any fat soluble vitamins in it. There is no vitamin A and no D3.
 
I see that you are confused. You might be overdosing and this might be the cause as @Bazelthechameleon said. I would try their advice and maybe seek help from a reliable vet. There are thousands of possibilities just because chameleons are very hard to take care of. I would say that overdosing and parasites are the most likely in this situation.
You are repeating incorrect information.
 
Hi @Kushcham welcome to the forum. My name is Becca and I would be happy to go through your husbandry for you. You are fine using the EP-A this is a calcium based supplement with no fat soluble vitamins. Only water soluble vitamins and bee pollen are included in this supplement with the calcium. There is no way to overdose a cham with this one. With that said. We have seen issues of edema when too many products that have bee pollen are used. So in the future just ensure that you are not using bee pollen straight.

Give me a bit and I will go through your husbandry review.
 
Sorry about this. I assumed the Pro A meant that it was a vitamin A supplement. Thanks for the correction.
Common misconception about this supplement. I really wish they would not have named it that to avoid the confusion. Arcadia supplements are very different then other more common supplements. Even their revitalize D3 has extremely low levels of vitamin A and D3 in it compared to other companies like Repashy and reptivite with d3.
 
Hi @Kushcham welcome to the forum. My name is Becca and I would be happy to go through your husbandry for you. You are fine using the EP-A this is a calcium based supplement with no fat soluble vitamins. Only water soluble vitamins and bee pollen are included in this supplement with the calcium. There is no way to overdose a cham with this one. With that said. We have seen issues of edema when too many products that have bee pollen are used. So in the future just ensure that you are not using bee pollen straight.

Give me a bit and I will go through your husbandry review.
Hi there! Thank you. And to confirm I am not using any stand alone bee pollen. But there is SOME bee pollen in the Dubia Diet that I offer to my crickets and roaches. However I don't seem them eating this all that much and opting for the fresh veg/fruit instead
 
Hi there! Thank you. And to confirm I am not using any stand alone bee pollen. But there is SOME bee pollen in the Dubia Diet that I offer to my crickets and roaches. However I don't seem them eating this all that much and opting for the fresh veg/fruit instead
Ok perfect.. I am going to go through your husbandry now.
 
@Kushcham See my feedback in red bold. Let me know what questions you have.


Chameleon Info:
Your Chameleon - 8.5 month old, male panther chameleon
Handling - Maybe once per week while maintaining his enclosure
Feeding - Daily-crickets and dubia, 3x per week-hornworms, 1x per week superworms or waxworms? He eats about 6-10 crickets or roaches per day, maybe 2-5 (1-1.2") hornworms per week, maybe 1-2 superworms per week/week and a half, maybe 5 waxworms per week? He is fed around 8am daily. Fed via Firehouse Geckos feeder run cup but definetely prefers tong feeding (which I know the risk and don't like doing it, but for some reason he is always more eager to eat from my tongs...please note that this is done VERY carefully with minimal grip on the feeder and move the tongs in a way that reduces his risk of coming in contact with tongs. His aim is always on point. All feeders are given kale, carrots, sweet red peppers, sweet potatoes, some apples and mango, Respashy's Bug Burger, and Lugarti's Dubia diet for dry food. All food is changed out every other day. On this avoid tongs... I have seen some horrible threads in here that involve tongs. Hand feed if he prefers that. You could also try a different type of feeder run. Full throttle makes a good one. Every thing else here looks good.
Supplements - Every feeding I dust with Arcadia Earth Pro A and twice monthly I use Reptivite with D3 every other Saturday... This is perfectly fine. I do prefer repashy calcium plus LoD version to Reptivite with D3. Repashy does not add phosphorus while reptivite has a 2:1 ratio. Also Repashy LoD has a lower D3 and A amount while still being highly effective. No need to over supplement with fat soluble vitamins so I prefer the Repashy LoD for this reason plus it is a much finer powder.
Watering - I try to follow the hydration schedule posted on the chameleonacademy. I use Mist King for watering and ReptiFogger to help with nighttime humidity. During the day I will use a dripper. Are you running any mistings when lights are on or are you sticking pretty close to Cham academy of before lights on and after off?
Fecal Description - Large white urate and a nice hydrated. But lately have been a little more runny and not as often. Thought could be because of me often feeding hornworms. So a runny urate can actually be a sign of over hydration. If it is more like egg whites instead of a formed urate this is typical of over hydration. You can correct this to see if this is the cause by cutting back your fogging duration at night.
History - He has always shown interest in getting to the soil of my live plants. All plants are repotted, roots and leaves washed, and replaced with organic soil. not surprising at all and it is good you covered it so he can not get to it. Panthers will eat dry leaves as well.

Cage Info:
Cage Type - 36x18x26 Exo terra converted to a 3 sided hybrid with DragonLedges... If he ends up being a big boy this cage may prove to be too small. The good thing about it is that it is a wide format but the depth and height are smaller and this is where for an adult male you may have an issue.
Lighting - 22" Arcadia fixture with Arcadia 6% t5ho bulb, 22" Arcadia Jungle Dawn LED, 75 watt basking bulb, and one additional 6500k led bulb in a dome. Each light turns on and off with a 5 mins delay apart using smart plug timer schedule. This is where I would switch it up because you have a 36 wide cage it is better to have the full span of coverage for UVB. I would have a 36 inch UVB fixture with 34 inch 6% bulb in it on this cage instead of the 22 inch. You could get a 6500k daylight bulb to put in the 24 inch T5 fixture to give more plant light. What is your total distance from the bottom of the UVB fixture to the branches below? with this fixture and bulb you need 8-9 inches to the branch to put the cham in the correct UVI level.
Temperature - Basking branch is about 8 inches below bulb and temps around 85, opposite end of cage temps 77-80 up top, bottom temps at 70 (bulb in resting on wire rack above enclosure. Lowest overnight temp is 65-66 degrees. I have two small Govee hygrometers and and digital display one as well. This is all good. I would not let basking go over 85 though.
Humidity - Daytime low is 42-50%. I run nighttime fog in 20 min intervals starting at 1am, 3am, 5am, and 6am along with a misting schedule of 1am, 3am, 5am, 6am, 7pm and 8pm for 1 min intervals. I have 3 pothos and 3 Schefflera Consider running a misting in the morning right after lights go on. Gives him the opportunity to drink but also clean his eyes if he needs to.
Placement - Located in my home office. It does receive some foot traffic? It is not near any vents of window. The bottom of the cage is 35" off the ground on a metal rack.
Location - About an hour NorthEast of Sacramento, CA? You can use this link to find a reptile vet near you https://arav.site-ym.com/search/custom.asp?id=3661

Current Problem - Recently (over the last 2-3 weeks) he has stopped coming out of his sleep spot (hidden deep in the large pothos under the mister) when lights come on. I usually drop fresh feeders in his cup around 8am every morning and he was always waiting in front of his cup like "where's my food human" Now he may come out of his spot when I go in to do something in his cage but otherwise he could stay in a large portion of the day. He has also spent more time hanging out at the bottom and even floor walking that bare bottom which has had me concerned. Since this morning he had not pooped for 3 days. The two poops before today were rather runny. Todays was a little better but still a bit on the runny side. He is eating about 8 crickets a day and a hornworm every couple days. Lately he has been ignoring the dubia unless I move one onto a branch with my tongs and get it moving. His grip strength is strong, his colors look ok. I am not seeing any major signs of visual distress. He has also been very interested in eating plant soil. I have had to cover all plants with fiberglass screen and put large river rocks over the top. So he will often patrol down and see if he can still find a way into the soil. At this point I am concerned of maybe parasites from one of the times I've been in a pinch a needed Petsmart crickets or some other means. If advised a vet visit is necessary, could someone recommended one in the area? I will include photos of setup and my cham


Has anything changes in his environment or the room in the last few weeks?

At 9 months you may see a curb down on eating this is pretty common. The fact that he is still eating is a good sign. However I would get a fecal test run to rule out parasites.
 
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