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A lot of what I have seen is wood that is built into a box with some kind of stain on It. Then they will use a small screen for the surroundings and figure something out for the bottom/drainage.I was looking around for diy cages for Pete last night so my mom and I could make one, and a lot of them were basically large pots with a tree in it, and screen surrounding it. Would this be possible, if I reinforced in with wood and Plexiglas, to use for Pete?
I think I’ve seen these too and always thought they’d be more appropriate to just use for outside time. I guess it depends on size and ability to construct.I was looking around for diy cages for Pete last night so my mom and I could make one, and a lot of them were basically large pots with a tree in it, and screen surrounding it. Would this be possible, if I reinforced in with wood and Plexiglas, to use for Pete?
The one I'm most familiar with is the one featured in Reptiles magazine from 2015.
I've seen others as well: diy round chameleon enclosure.
There was one featured on a reptile show video—I think it was one of Clint Laidlaw's, IIRC, BICBW.
I think the folks showing that one were developing it commercially via GoFundMe or some such...
Quite a few of these had no such reinforcement (and I don't recall how you got access...).
The biggest concern I had was the footprints all seemed rather small to me. A 2x2x4 is 4 sq. ft., but a 2' dia is only 3.14159yaddayaddayadda sq. ft. Some of the round cages were something less than 2' in dia.
Did you have a particular design or plan in mind (if so, which one) and how wide were you thinking of making it (and what species is Pete)?
No, it's 16 Cubic Feet. It's still 4 square feet.2x2x4 is 16 SQ FT, but I am just nitpicking lololol.
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As it happens, I'm puling together a design for a 30"x30"x48" (but could apply to any dimensions) for an anticipated male panther. I'm going a little larger than many folks' 24"x24"x48" because it'll be sitting on a 30" wide table, and why waste the extra table space?Thank you all for your replies. i apologize for not responding sooner, as I have been dealing with my finals for school. @JacksJill , that cage is amazing, and that is what I would aim for, but due to other points on here that I have not previously thought about, I will most likely go with a rectangular build. If i were to build a rectangular cage from scratch, how would I do so? What would be some materials? And @Klyde O'Scope , Pete is a male panther chameleon
... Or directly to the square tube of the frame. Plain aluminum bars or straps can be screwed to the frame like dragon ledges, but entirely on the inside—no need to pierce the screening. I haven't found any chrome corners for this system. AFAIK, the connectors are nylon; I was thinking about spraying them with aluminum paint.I was considering diy'ing a cage before opting for a mass produced screen cage, after all i DIY my fishtank and although i love it i have a habit of over engineering things. Too lazy to do the math lol.
But in my one of my ideas was slotted aluminium frame looks good and can get nice chrome round corners like on flight cases, would be easy too attach structural features with the slots.
... Or directly to the square tube of the frame. Plain aluminum bars or straps can be screwed to the frame like dragon ledges, but entirely on the inside—no need to pierce the screening. I haven't found any chrome corners for this system. AFAIK, the connectors are nylon; I was thinking about spraying them with aluminum paint.
I know exactly what you mean about over-engineering (Guilty!)
I've seen many DIY cages from screen parts that don't use any additional framing. I'm just not convinced of the durability for the long haul. YMMV.
I see. Cost is the same for either the curved profile 1" T-slot or the Quick Frame, so it probably comes down to aesthetics. Not sure how the mesh would be tensioned down & attached to the T-slot (but I'm open-minded at this point; that's why I'm discussing it through my design process.) A lot of these materials & methods are new to me.Think the purpose built mesh aluminium frame is best bet as easy to tension the mesh down, heres link of some of the t slot was looking at think it called aluminium profile in US ?
https://images.app.goo.gl/28fHov9xwGwXmrjCA
https://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http://www.valuframe.co.uk/images/Aluminum%20profile%20corner%20block.jpg&imgrefurl=http://www.valuframe.co.uk/&tbnid=I6k6TmFresoDRM&vet=12ahUKEwjf3-Ww7NjpAhVJlxoKHVv1B04QMygBegUIARDrAQ..i&docid=HR2yJvghboA4mM&w=240&h=180&q=slotted aluminium rounded corners&client=ms-android-motorola&ved=2ahUKEwjf3-Ww7NjpAhVJlxoKHVv1B04QMygBegUIARDrAQ
The only screen frames I'm currently aware of are the 5/16"x3/4" or 5/16"x1" sold in the big box stores.If you get quality thick screen frame than its quality thick long lasting metal. The quick frame, is just as strong as a similar sized screen frame.
What, me rivet? Sorry to admit life experience never took me in that direction. Further explanation below.If anything, and your truly worried about strength of the cage. I would just build it from screen frame like normal, and then Rivet on some 1/16 - 1/8 thick aluminum angle to all the corners.
Your way overthinking the rigidity needed. Quick Frame has its uses in cage building (Forex Builds, Alu frame - PVC panels) but what your suggesting is honestly just a waste of money.
Also You dont need the screen frame if you use the Quick Frame. What purpose does it serve? If you really dead set on using Quick frame. Just get the QF with the
Flanges, build it like a forex cage, and then spline the screen into the flanges.
The only screen frames I'm currently aware of are the 5/16"x3/4" or 5/16"x1" sold in the big box stores.
I'm still shopping for the fabric. (I'm working on a post with all my questions & issues—wasn't really prepared to get into all that now; I just brought it up because the OP asked in post #12.)
What, me rivet? Sorry to admit life experience never took me in that direction. Further explanation below.
Very likely. Had to look up "forex", and then wade through all the stock market stuff.
Again, this probably isn't the place, but after reading myself weary about screening & chameleon enclosures, I'm not terribly confident my eventual choice will be suitable. My idea was to slide the screens down into the channeled QF. Then, if the screening ever needed to be replaced for ANY reason (suffice it to say there's an ENORMOUS klutz factor in this house), it would be a simple matter to remove the top, slide the screens out and re-screen as necessary without tearing the whole enclosure apart.