If you can keep a bearded dragon healthy with no MBD then you can keep a veiled chameleon well.
The supplementing, feeding/gutloading, UVB requirements are very similar. Basking temperatures and cage furniture differ of course.
Regarding a basking light...I use a regular household incandescent bulb of a wattage that produces the appropriate basking temperature. For a veiled female that's in the low 80's F. As was already mentioned, the bulbs should be outside the cage for safety reasons.
Regarding supplements. I'm not sure what's in nutrobal so you will have to figure it out if you need to adjust how you're using it.
What is recommended is as follows...
It's recommended to use a phosphorous-free calcium powder at almost every feeding to help make up for the usually poor ratio of calcium to phosphorous in most feeder insects.
It's recommended that you use a phosphorous-free calcium/D3 powder twice a month to ensure that the chameleon gets some D3 without overdosing it and leaving it to produce the rest from its exposure to the UVB light. D3 from supplements builds up in the system but D3 produced from exposure to the UVB light won't as long as the chameleon can move in and out of it at will.
It's recommended that you dust with a vitamin powder that has a beta carotene prOformed source of vitamin A twice a month. Vitamin A from a prEformed source can build up in the system but prOformed sources won't...so this leaves it up to you to decide if/when the chameleon needs some prEformed vitamin A.
These are the same supplementing recommendations I use for beardies.
The veileds can be offered the same greens (dandelion greens, kale, endive, escarole, collards, etc) and veggies (carrots, squash, zucchini, sweet red pepper, sweet potato, etc) and (a bit of) fruit (berries, melon, apple, pears, etc) I recommend for the insect gutload too...and so can the beardies
For veiled females...don't overfeed them constantly because it can lead to producing large clutches and to MBD and to prolapsing.
Hope this helps.
The supplementing, feeding/gutloading, UVB requirements are very similar. Basking temperatures and cage furniture differ of course.
Regarding a basking light...I use a regular household incandescent bulb of a wattage that produces the appropriate basking temperature. For a veiled female that's in the low 80's F. As was already mentioned, the bulbs should be outside the cage for safety reasons.
Regarding supplements. I'm not sure what's in nutrobal so you will have to figure it out if you need to adjust how you're using it.
What is recommended is as follows...
It's recommended to use a phosphorous-free calcium powder at almost every feeding to help make up for the usually poor ratio of calcium to phosphorous in most feeder insects.
It's recommended that you use a phosphorous-free calcium/D3 powder twice a month to ensure that the chameleon gets some D3 without overdosing it and leaving it to produce the rest from its exposure to the UVB light. D3 from supplements builds up in the system but D3 produced from exposure to the UVB light won't as long as the chameleon can move in and out of it at will.
It's recommended that you dust with a vitamin powder that has a beta carotene prOformed source of vitamin A twice a month. Vitamin A from a prEformed source can build up in the system but prOformed sources won't...so this leaves it up to you to decide if/when the chameleon needs some prEformed vitamin A.
These are the same supplementing recommendations I use for beardies.
The veileds can be offered the same greens (dandelion greens, kale, endive, escarole, collards, etc) and veggies (carrots, squash, zucchini, sweet red pepper, sweet potato, etc) and (a bit of) fruit (berries, melon, apple, pears, etc) I recommend for the insect gutload too...and so can the beardies
For veiled females...don't overfeed them constantly because it can lead to producing large clutches and to MBD and to prolapsing.
Hope this helps.
.
