Boycotting crickets!

[Lynn57]

So Antwon has decided that crickets don’t agree with his palate any longer and is refusing to eat them. He loves the BSFL and only wants to eat them as well as he will take waxworms, silk worms or superworms. (I only give him one of them a day for a treat)
I know that BSFL are an excellent food item and easy for me to obtain. Do you think I should cater to him and just leave the crickets out of his diet? He was raised on them and hadn’t had the variety he is now getting from me.

 

[ehdee6]

So, imagine you've only been fed one thing; all your life! Then, all of a sudden; a whole new world of food was thrown at you! ... Would you go back to the same thing right away?

It's ok to leave crickets out of the menu; especially when they have other options. Maybe try to throw some crickets back in after a few weeks; and see if it makes him interested again.

West Coast Canadian; So, so eh!?? Sorry...

 

[Lynn57]

So, imagine you've only been fed one thing; all your life! Then, all of a sudden; a whole new world of food was thrown at you! ... Would you go back to the same thing right away?

It's ok to leave crickets out of the menu; especially when they have other options. Maybe try to throw some crickets back in after a few weeks; and see if it makes him interested again.

West Coast Canadian; So, so eh!?? Sorry...

Plus BSFL are so much easier to keep!! And then when they turn into flies … he is going to love it !

 

[BleuSaphir]

You can omit it out for some time. I did that with my chameleon with Dubia roaches.

 

[MissSkittles]

Some of my different critters have different tastes, which I do take note of and offer substitutions. However, every now and again I will sneak in just one of their disliked feeders to see if their tastes or preferences have maybe changed. Sometimes they do change and will accept what they previously declined. I do offer them all a wide variety, so that they never really know what feeder is on the menu. Bsfl are fantastic as they last a long time, don’t need to be dusted with calcium and then yes, become fun flying treats. Silkworms are wonderful for nutrition and hydration and are perfect for hand feeding since they move so slowly. Dubia, discoid or whatever other roach is legal/available in your area is another very nutritious feeder, although some may need to acquire a taste for them. If you are in the US, you can also get grasshoppers which I’m yet to hear of a chameleon refusing. Only two sources that I know of for them. Kai Phan on Facebook and https://dragonhoppers.com/ Many insect vendors on line sell variety packs, which are perfect for those who have just one or two insectivores.

 

[Lynn57]

Some of my different critters have different tastes, which I do take note of and offer substitutions. However, every now and again I will sneak in just one of their disliked feeders to see if their tastes or preferences have maybe changed. Sometimes they do change and will accept what they previously declined. I do offer them all a wide variety, so that they never really know what feeder is on the menu. Bsfl are fantastic as they last a long time, don’t need to be dusted with calcium and then yes, become fun flying treats. Silkworms are wonderful for nutrition and hydration and are perfect for hand feeding since they move so slowly. Dubia, discoid or whatever other roach is legal/available in your area is another very nutritious feeder, although some may need to acquire a taste for them. If you are in the US, you can also get grasshoppers which I’m yet to hear of a chameleon refusing. Only two sources that I know of for them. Kai Phan on Facebook and https://dragonhoppers.com/ Many insect vendors on line sell variety packs, which are perfect for those who have just one or two insectivores.

The problem here is that I’m in Canada so I’m a tad more restricted as what I can get for feeders. Basically it’s crickets, BFSL, mealworms of the different sizes and butter or wax worms. The silkworms are $2.47 each and horn worms are $3.99 each !! So the silk and horn are going to be few and far between lol I am grateful he loves the BSFL as they are so nutritious, easy to get and fairly cheap. I’d just like to feed more of a variety. Like you say, he may go back to crickets in time…which I’ll make sure I don’t over do. I always have crickets on hand as I have frogs, tarantulas and chickens that love them.

 

[ehdee6]

If you're interested in starting a roach colony, Banana Bay discords, https://crawlmart.ca/ has a good deal on 25 mixed discords for $60 and 20$ flat shipping. So you can get 50 mix roaches for $140. If you have others to sell the roaches to you could make a good side hustle too!

 

[Lynn57]

If you're interested in starting a roach colony, Banana Bay discords, https://crawlmart.ca/ has a good deal on 25 mixed discords for $60 and 20$ flat shipping. So you can get 50 mix roaches for $140. If you have others to sell the roaches to you could make a good side hustle too!

Thanks! I’ll look into that. I wouldn’t be interested in getting into the selling… just being able to feed a few to my guy would make me happy. They sure live a longtime and are slow to mature! The adults would be too large for most chameleons??

 

[MissSkittles]

I second getting a discoid colony. It is an investment and will take a few months to get fully established, but is well worth it. The adults are much too large for feeding, but the nymphs don’t grow terribly fast so will be a good feeding size for some time.
I’ve found my colony produces best when kept bioactively - I mix some organic soil with coco coir, add some horticultural charcoal and a touch of sphagnum moss (to hold humidity)…add some isopods like dwarf white and springtails. I put in a small bit of cuttle bone for all the buggies health and keep one side a bit moist. (Isopods need humidity to breathe). Some leaf litter for the isopods and springtails to munch if they choose. Keep at around 90F (heat mat on the outside of the bin) and before you know it, there will be itty bitty icky bebes crawling around. The roaches do need to be able to climb, so I put in some cork bark for them, like little cave houses. So I don’t have to go digging all the time to find feeders, I every now and then sort thru and remove the nymphs and keep in a separate clean bin.
The prices of some of the feeders does seem a bit crazy until you breed your own and then understand why they are so expensive. I don’t often get hornworms because of cost and how crazy fast they outgrow feeding size. For silkworms, let a few dozen complete their life cycle and become moths to mate and provide eggs. The eggs need a diapause of about 3 months in the fridge (wine fridge is perfect) and then you can take out and hatch as many as you want at one time. I buy the powdered chow to make their food. They are a bit slow to get growing, but after a few weeks, they’re starting to get big enough and you’ll have feeders for at least a few weeks (depending on size you start feeding them). When your egg supply is getting low or old, repeat the process of producing eggs. They can be a challenge at times since they have basically no immune system and can easily die off, but keep at it and you’ll get the hang of it.
You can even breed your own superworms, but you will end up with way more than you could ever possibly need (hundreds if not more). I breed my own of just about everything I can and if I have excess, I donate to the local wildlife hospital.

 

[nightanole]

Ill be honest, i only grow lizards on crickets. Ant no one getting crickets as adults. Im not playing size roulette with $20-40 in crickets a month and hoping they live for 3-4 weeks when i already ordered them at good eaten size.

Babies yea. order pin heads and they grow with the lizard and you might get 2 months out of the box. Now play that gave with 4 weeks crickets that might have a 6-8 week lifetime. Oh and the die off smell at the end.

 

[Lynn57]

I second getting a discoid colony. It is an investment and will take a few months to get fully established, but is well worth it. The adults are much too large for feeding, but the nymphs don’t grow terribly fast so will be a good feeding size for some time.
I’ve found my colony produces best when kept bioactively - I mix some organic soil with coco coir, add some horticultural charcoal and a touch of sphagnum moss (to hold humidity)…add some isopods like dwarf white and springtails. I put in a small bit of cuttle bone for all the buggies health and keep one side a bit moist. (Isopods need humidity to breathe). Some leaf litter for the isopods and springtails to munch if they choose. Keep at around 90F (heat mat on the outside of the bin) and before you know it, there will be itty bitty icky bebes crawling around. The roaches do need to be able to climb, so I put in some cork bark for them, like little cave houses. So I don’t have to go digging all the time to find feeders, I every now and then sort thru and remove the nymphs and keep in a separate clean bin.
The prices of some of the feeders does seem a bit crazy until you breed your own and then understand why they are so expensive. I don’t often get hornworms because of cost and how crazy fast they outgrow feeding size. For silkworms, let a few dozen complete their life cycle and become moths to mate and provide eggs. The eggs need a diapause of about 3 months in the fridge (wine fridge is perfect) and then you can take out and hatch as many as you want at one time. I buy the powdered chow to make their food. They are a bit slow to get growing, but after a few weeks, they’re starting to get big enough and you’ll have feeders for at least a few weeks (depending on size you start feeding them). When your egg supply is getting low or old, repeat the process of producing eggs. They can be a challenge at times since they have basically no immune system and can easily die off, but keep at it and you’ll get the hang of it.
You can even breed your own superworms, but you will end up with way more than you could ever possibly need (hundreds if not more). I breed my own of just about everything I can and if I have excess, I donate to the local wildlife hospital.

I second getting a discoid colony. It is an investment and will take a few months to get fully established, but is well worth it. The adults are much too large for feeding, but the nymphs don’t grow terribly fast so will be a good feeding size for some time.
I’ve found my colony produces best when kept bioactively - I mix some organic soil with coco coir, add some horticultural charcoal and a touch of sphagnum moss (to hold humidity)…add some isopods like dwarf white and springtails. I put in a small bit of cuttle bone for all the buggies health and keep one side a bit moist. (Isopods need humidity to breathe). Some leaf litter for the isopods and springtails to munch if they choose. Keep at around 90F (heat mat on the outside of the bin) and before you know it, there will be itty bitty icky bebes crawling around. The roaches do need to be able to climb, so I put in some cork bark for them, like little cave houses. So I don’t have to go digging all the time to find feeders, I every now and then sort thru and remove the nymphs and keep in a separate clean bin.
The prices of some of the feeders does seem a bit crazy until you breed your own and then understand why they are so expensive. I don’t often get hornworms because of cost and how crazy fast they outgrow feeding size. For silkworms, let a few dozen complete their life cycle and become moths to mate and provide eggs. The eggs need a diapause of about 3 months in the fridge (wine fridge is perfect) and then you can take out and hatch as many as you want at one time. I buy the powdered chow to make their food. They are a bit slow to get growing, but after a few weeks, they’re starting to get big enough and you’ll have feeders for at least a few weeks (depending on size you start feeding them). When your egg supply is getting low or old, repeat the process of producing eggs. They can be a challenge at times since they have basically no immune system and can easily die off, but keep at it and you’ll get the hang of it.
You can even breed your own superworms, but you will end up with way more than you could ever possibly need (hundreds if not more). I breed my own of just about everything I can and if I have excess, I donate to the local wildlife hospital.

Thanks, great info!! How big a tub do I need to keep them in? (I'm running out of run here lol) Is there any point in starting with say 10? Then if I'm not successful I'm not out $$ I'm trying the silkworms (bought 10) but only 4 have made it to the cocoon stage (which is happening now) but yes it's such a long time in order to get any babies! I'm hoping out of these 4 there is at least one female! And yes, far too sensitive for my liking. I plan to put the eggs in the fridge...is that too cold for them? After this bout I don't think I'll have them anymore. I have been getting up in the night to re feed them as their food dries up quickly. I'm a tad tired of that! lol Superworms are cheap and plentiful here so I wouldn't bother with them. But the discoid's I think would be worth trying as they are so expensive and hard to get. How quick do they grow once they are out of the nymph stage? Can I feed young adults to him? Thanks so much for all the info!!! I really appreciate it!!