Ok hun I am going to bold red everything that I see. 
Your Chameleon - Male Veiled chameleon, had since August of last year. Unsure of age.
Feeding - Crickets, Super Worms, roachs, Wax Worms, horn worms when available. I gutload all my bugs with carrots, dandelion, mustard greens, white potatoes, blueberries, sweat potato and apples. I also use Fluker's Calcium Fortified Cricket Quencher.
I would switch up your gutload... So you want heavy on the green leafy veg.. I am attaching an image for you to go by. Print this out for your shopping list. Dump the flukers it sucks. Wax worms are basically all fat.. So limit these. Supers should only be about 20% of the total feeders given. If you can get him to eat roaches over the crickets they gut load much better and are better nutritionally.
Supplements - Repti Calcium Without D3. Use Calcium without D3 daily. Use multivitamin twice a month.
Which are you actually using out of your ones at the bottom. There are duplicates. I do not like the herbivite because it only has beta carotene instead of preformed A. So a few options here... You can toss the vits you have and switch to Repashy calcium plus LoD at every feeding. This provides everything in the correct amounts. THis would be lightly dusted on all feeders (dubia and crickets) and would be the only supplement you use beside pee pollen. Or keep the two repti calciums and get reptivite without D3 or Supervite no D3. So this would be calcium without d3 at every feeding and then 2 times a month the calcium with D3 and then 2 times a month the new multivitamin. Alternating these two week over week.
Watering - I am monitoring him closely, and want to keep track of how much he’s drinking. So I’m syringing him water several times a day (dropping water onto his mouth and letting him drink). He has a mister, though. Right now it is not going off.
Why are you not using the mister?
Fecal Description - He's been tested for parasites and it came back negative.
History - Purchased from PetSmart.
Cage Type - Reptibreeze screen cage, size x-large.
Lighting - 75w basking bulb , Reptisun 10.0 HO UVB Bulb, linear tube
Is this a single fixture T5HO or a T8? If it is a T5 then you need the 5.0 bulb. The basking should be at 7-8 inches below the fixture with the fixture sitting directly on the screen. THe 10.0 in a single T5 fixture will give you too high of UVI levels at the basking site. While there is such a thing as too little UVB there is also Too much...
Temperature - The cage stays about 70-85 depending on area. It's around 95 under his basking spot. I have 3 thermometers/hydrometer throughout his cage. I also use a heatgun for the basking spot.
95 is a bit too hot... Depending on his age... juveniles should not be hotter then 85.. Adult males 90-95 BUT they will tell you if they are too hot. My guy does not like it any hotter then 89 at basking or he will gape non stop. If your measureing the temp at the basking branch and that is 90 then 2-3 inches above it will be more like 95. and so on.
Humidity - Around 30-50 durning the day. I run his Reptifogger on low during the day and on high at night.
No fogger running into the cage during the day only at night. Daytime humidity for a veiled should be 30-50% max. If you are needing to up the humidity during the day you utilize a fogger in the room he is in. But never in the cage during day. Heat from lights and fogging is a recipe for an RI> With his history of RI this must be corrected asap... I will give you a link for natural hydration at the end.
Location - North Carolina
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Cucumber had previously been sick and stopped eating. We went to two different vets before he was diagnosed him with an RI after he went a 2 months without eating on his own. We started treatments, which were an antibiotic (every 3 days), oral calcium, and an anti-inflammatory. He has since stopped all the medicines.
He was doing amazing on his treatments, eating so much food that we almost couldn't keep enough crickets around. However, he stopped eating again last month and I'm back to force feeding Carnivore Care. The only thing that has changed is that he is no longer in his "hospital" cage. I kept him in his baby, size medium reptibreeze while he was sick, per the doctors request. He's now back in his x-large cage.
Are you offering him food now?
I'm also taking him outside to get natural UV whenever possible. His grip is strong and he moves around a lot. He's not showing any signs of being lethargic.
Last week we went in for his checkup and he had an ultrasound done to make sure nothing was blocked. The vet didn’t see anything.
The last time he ate on his own was May 20th.
The vet said everything looked normal on his blood results, but I wanted to double check with you all.
Answer the lighting questions for me... post pics of the entire cage lights down as well please.
https://www.chameleonforums.com/care/caresheets/veiled/
https://www.chameleonforums.com/care/images/
All of his podcasts are great but here is the one on natural hydration.
https://www.chameleonbreeder.com/podcast/ep-89-naturalistic-hydration-for-chameleons/
