Best Substrate and Lighting to use for Veiled Chameleon?

Marshadow-X

Member
Hello recently one of my two Veiled Chameleons died, and I feel like I didn't do a great job taking care of him so for my other one I decided I would do some deep research but my results came up inconclusive. So I was wondering if anyone here could help me determine the best substrate and lighting to use since apparently what I am using right now isn't that great.
 
Hello recently one of my two Veiled Chameleons died, and I feel like I didn't do a great job taking care of him so for my other one I decided I would do some deep research but my results came up inconclusive. So I was wondering if anyone here could help me determine the best substrate and lighting to use since apparently what I am using right now isn't that great.
no substrate whatsoever! for most keepers, we leave a bare bottom. it makes it easier for draining and also no bacteria build up. for lighting, use a linear T5HO UVB bulb. use a 5.0 because the 10.0 could be too much exposure. it should run the length of the top of your screen. for the heat bulb, it depends on your chameleon, but i use a 40watt incandescent house bulb to get the basking temp to around 80 degrees. basking temp high should be 80-85, so use whatever gets you in that range. use a white light preferably, red lights can hurt the chams eyes.
 
Welcome to the forum!

Sorry you lost your male. Always sad to lose one.
Hopefully the other one will be ok.
Is the remaining one a male or female?
Did you keep them in separate cages?

Please post some photos of the remaining one and the cage including the lights.
If you have photos of the one you lost, please post them too.
 
My chameleons were both male and originally I kept them in the same cage until they start to fight then I separated them
 
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Also after I posted the original message I started wondering if I should get a misting system is there any good ones you would recommend?
 
Hi. I’m sorry that one of your chameleons died. :( From the pic, he looks to have metabolic bone disease and if he was often sitting with his head up like that, he may have had a respiratory infection. Chameleons aren’t the easiest to take care of and if all of their specific needs aren’t met, they can very easily get sick and die. From your pics, I do see several things that need to be changed. I’d like if you go here https://chameleonacademy.com/chameleon-husbandry-program-getting-started-with-chameleons/ and read every module. You’ll be able to see some of the many changes that you’ll need to make, such as larger enclosure, correct linear T5 light with 5.0 or 6% uvb bulb, no substrate, monitoring temps and humidity and keeping within proper ranges, best supplement regimen, etc. I’m very glad that you’re here and looking to improve the life of your chameleon. We enjoy helping others so ask whatever questions you have.
 
The one that died definitely had MBD so we really need to go over things for the one you have left because he might be on the verge of it too.

Can you please answer the questions in this thread so we can check out your husbandry. I can already see a few things that need to be changed. @MissSkittles has already mentioned a few things. Try to be specific about the answers giving the brands,etc...and for supplements...do they have D3 and prEformed (retinol) or prOformed vitamin A (carotene), calcium and phosphorous.
 
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If you answer these questions as thoroughly as possible, we can go thru all of your care and make suggestions as and where needed.
Chameleon Info:
  • Your Chameleon - The species, sex, and age of your chameleon. How long has it been in your care?
  • Handling - How often do you handle your chameleon?
  • Feeding - What are you feeding your cham? What amount? What is the schedule? How are you gut-loading your feeders?
  • Supplements - What brand and type of calcium and vitamin products are you dusting your feeders with and what is the schedule?
  • Watering - What kind of watering technique do you use? How often and how long to you mist? Do you see your chameleon drinking?
  • Fecal Description - Briefly note colors and consistency from recent droppings. Has this chameleon ever been tested for parasites?
  • History - Any previous information about your cham that might be useful to others when trying to help you.

Cage Info:
  • Cage Type - Describe your cage (Glass, Screen, Combo?) What are the dimensions?
  • Lighting - What brand, model, and types of lighting are you using? What is your daily lighting schedule?
  • Temperature - What temp range have you created (cage floor to basking spot)? Lowest overnight temp? How do you measure these temps?
  • Humidity - What are your humidity levels? How are you creating and maintaining these levels? What do you use to measure humidity?
  • Plants - Are you using live plants? If so, what kind?
  • Placement - Where is your cage located? Is it near any fans, air vents, or high traffic areas? At what height is the top of the cage relative to your room floor?
  • Location - Where are you geographically located?

Current Problem - The current problem you are concerned about.

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Please Note:
  1. The more details you provide the better and more accurate help you will receive.
  2. Photos can be very helpful.
 
Chameleon Info:
  • Your Chameleon - Veiled Chameleon, male, around 2 years old, he has been with me for two years.
  • Handling - He never lets me handle him
  • Feeding - For meat I feed him crickets and mealworms and rarely super worms and wax worms. For plants I feed him a variety of things such as strawberries, lettuce, spinach carrots grapes, zucchini squash, bell pepper, blueberries, apple, pears, melon, peaches, and cucumbers. I used to feed them crickets a lot but then my parents decided that it would be easier to by them in those boxes and for me to just put the crickets in most of the time now I use mealworms and fruits and veggies. Monday Wednesday Friday and Sunday. The crickets when I was gut-loading them were eating a lot of calcium food and I sprinkle the mealworms, fruits and veggies with calcium dust which also says it has D3 in it.
  • Supplements - The mealworms and such get dusted with Repti Calcium while the crickets were eating Fluker’s cricket quencher calcium fortified.
  • Watering - I spray the cage until it is soaked pretty well and the leaves are dripping. I spray the cage when the humidity maker in the back starts to get low and I spray until the cage is pretty soaked. I use to see them drink quite often but I haven’t seen them drinking lately.
  • Fecal Description - The color is white and a blackish brown and their poop is mostly solid. And no they have not been tested for parasites we do not have any good lizard vets up here in Alaska
  • History - About a year after I got them the one that is alive just couldn’t walk anymore we had no clue why but I made him a new enclosure and eventually he got better.
Cage Info:
  • Cage Type - Glass sides and bottom and screen top. 18’ by 18’ by 24’
  • Lighting - I used to know but my mom made me throw away the thing the lamp came in and for the bulbs I use a white and a blue one a picture of them will be at the bottom. 10:30 to 10:30 in the summer and during school 7:00 to 7:00 except and Tuesdays and Thursdays the light gets turned off at 6:00 because I have judo.
  • Temperature - I don’t know the temp in the cage because I don’t have anything to measure it with but I will get something soon.
  • Humidity - Normally I try to keep the humidity 60 or higher when school was still in it would drop to like 10 until I got home at 3:30 then I would spray them a lot. I spray the cage a lot but I’m going to get a humidifier so when I go back to school or I’m doing stuff I don’t have to worry about it. Picture will be at the bottom.
  • Plants - I am not using live plants
  • Placement - It is located in my room on a nightstand. No. About 48’.
  • Location - Anchorage, Alaska
Current Problem - My current problem is that I’m not sure if I’m taking the best care of him and I don’t want him to die like the other one.
 
So your veiled chameleon is gonna need a lot of changes I’m going to list off the cheapest stuff these are the stuff you’re going to want to change into the fixture is tube uvb either 5.0 or 10.0 depending on the distance from the basking branch and a 2 foot wide by 2 foot deep by 4 foot tall cage is the minimum for an adult veiled chameleons you may want to do screen or solid sided depending on the humidity of your own home and where your cage is solid sided cages get very exepensive tho so if you need to retain humidity but are on a budget just get heat shrink film used for window and wrap 3 sided of the cage with it and stick it with double sided tape and leave the top and service door clear or wrap the door too if you need more and the heat bulbs you’re going to want to change to a reptile dome doesn’t matter what brand as long as it has a ceramic base so the bulb doesn’t melt the fixture and a incandescent house bulb the wattage depends on the heat you need a 60 watt is usually a good starting point but it’ll depend on your temps and a probe to measure the temps like this and for this set up no substrate it’s not recommended unless you make it bioactive which involves a lot of work to make it right you’ll also want live plants as veileds tend to nibble on their plants and you don’t want it eating plastic and
 

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This image didn’t post the brand doesn’t matter too much for the heat dome
 

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Oh and I forgot when selecting a bulb do NOT get spotlights those put too much heat into one spot and tend to cause burns get a normal house bulb that’s not led or an incandescent floodlight or halogen floodlight but halogens tend to make twice as much heat with half as much power so if you use a 60 watt incandescent then you’d want a 30 watt halogen
 
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