I have no idea what kind of Panther we got, we went to Repticon and I don’t remember the guy saying and we def didn’t know to ask. He was also selling unhatched eggs for people to buy and hatch themselves. I was def not going down that road.
Thank you!!!
I use the same. It’s not any brighter than the natural sun. Plus, you’ll be putting in lots of plants so your chameleon has shaded areas to hang out if he wants.
That does seem like a good option, fewer cords and chances for electrical issues. I’m taking a bunch of notes and looking stuff up on Amazon. I gotta figure out a piece of furniture to put a bigger cage on that has some storage or is open to put a bucket for the mister I’m looking at.
As others have mentioned, there are some tweaks you could make to your setup, but as for growth: if it’s shedding, it’s growing. How big is your Cham? Weight/age?
Guessing it’s about 5-6 months old. No idea of weight. Probably the length of my middle finger. It’s def bigger than it was but seeing pics I thought he would be bigger.
Like I mentioned before the enclosure from tamura designs has everything your looking for in a cage. A nice piece of furniture, a stand in the form of a cabinet for storage. Where you a can storage your mister pump and water container. It might be a little costly for some but it would be beautiful enclosure to display in any house.
At this size/age, 3/8” crickets and dubia nymphs are of acceptable size. At this size, there’s no reason to be feeding exclusively fruit flies and bean beetles.
Ok. We have ordered additional food from Ghanns. Just waiting for it to get here (dubia roaches & crickets).
Another good source for information , which I solely trust The gentleman who’s been doing it for over 40 years . Is “Chamaeleon Academy” Bill Strand , it’s easily looked up . I still haven’t figured out how to post links
. I know this all seems a little overwhelming , by the plethora of information you just received it’s also important to watch his activity . I noticed mine will get up in the morning and go through a routine of sun then UVB then it’s on to hunting for food A slowdown in the middle of the day A little more activity at night just before lights out and literally he will go to his sleeping spot 10 or 15 minutes before lights out . The biggest factors you’ll encounter that are important besides supplementation are Warm temperatures low humidity during the day High humidity low temperatures at night . Good luck and welcome 
There’s def a ton of info to sift through. I will check out the Chameleon Academy. Got stuff ordered for a new/bigger enclosure. Researching the drainage issue now. Just wanna do things the right way upfront if possible. I know there will be some trial and error. One thing I’m struggling with is getting him/her (not sure of sex yet) to eat out of a feeding cup where I put the larvae.Another good source for information , which I solely trust The gentleman who’s been doing it for over 40 years . Is “Chamaeleon Academy” Bill Strand , it’s easily looked up . I still haven’t figured out how to post links
That’s awesome keep us updated it’s so frustrating when someone starts a thread and never finishes . It helps everybody who’s getting into it Understand your trial and errors . Glad to see you’re doing things right . So many don’t, kill their chameleons and never come back. I wouldn’t worry about feeding for the first week or so as their acclimating . Of course my boy came home at 8:15 on his first day . I use a shooting range type theater for the crickets and I put the larva in a small glass bowl at the bottom . Sometimes I’ll put them on a branch close to where he’s at and then leave him alone and stand way back and watch . Sometimes I don’t like to be watched eating . Look forward to your future posts
Drainage will depend partly on the type of enclosure you buy or build (DIY).
Dubia nymphs make perfect feeders for babies. Higher protein too
They're less than half that at Petco.
