Adult Panther not eating

stugotz13

stugotz13

Established Member
Hello. Fred is an 18 month old male Panther, great color, active, drinks plenty, but seems to be on a hunger strike. He hasn't taken a cricket in a week now. No changes to husbandry have been made. He's gone several days in the past, but not as long as this. Poop looks good too. Thanks in advance for your help.
20210127_200251.jpg
 
stugotz13 said:
Hello. Fred is an 18 month old male Panther, great color, active, drinks plenty, but seems to be on a hunger strike. He hasn't taken a cricket in a week now. No changes to husbandry have been made. He's gone several days in the past, but not as long as this. Poop looks good too. Thanks in advance for your help.
View attachment 291298
Click to expand...
What were you feeding prior? Sometimes if they are getting more of something they prefer and then you try crickets again they will refuse them.
 
stugotz13 said:
Sure
Click to expand...
Here ya go... Be as detailed as possible and include images of the enclosure lights down

Chameleon Info:

  • Your Chameleon - The species, sex, and age of your chameleon. How long has it been in your care?
  • Handling - How often do you handle your chameleon?
  • Feeding - What are you feeding your cham? What amount? What is the schedule? How are you gut-loading your feeders?
  • Supplements - What brand and type of calcium and vitamin products are you dusting your feeders with and what is the schedule?
  • Watering - What kind of watering technique do you use? How often and how long to you mist? Do you see your chameleon drinking?
  • Fecal Description - Briefly note colors and consistency from recent droppings. Has this chameleon ever been tested for parasites?
  • History - Any previous information about your cham that might be useful to others when trying to help you.

Cage Info:

  • Cage Type - Describe your cage (Glass, Screen, Combo?) What are the dimensions?
  • Lighting - What brand, model, and types of lighting are you using? What is your daily lighting schedule?
  • Temperature - What temp range have you created (cage floor to basking spot)? Lowest overnight temp? How do you measure these temps?
  • Humidity - What are your humidity levels? How are you creating and maintaining these levels? What do you use to measure humidity?
  • Plants - Are you using live plants? If so, what kind?
  • Placement - Where is your cage located? Is it near any fans, air vents, or high traffic areas? At what height is the top of the cage relative to your room floor?
  • Location - Where are you geographically located?

Current Problem - The current problem you are concerned about.

--------------

Please Note:

  1. The more details you provide the better and more accurate help you will receive.
  2. Photos can be very helpful.
 
Sorry for the late response


Chameleon Info:

  • Your Chameleon - Male Amilobe 18 months old. I had him since he was 3 months old
  • Handling - several times a week
  • Feeding - 5-6 crickets every other day dusted with Repashy Lo-D. Crickets are gut loaded with Repashy Superload
  • Supplements - Repashy Lo-D every feeding
  • Watering - Automatic misting 10 mins-5-5-5 every 3 hours. Yes they drink
  • Fecal Description - Healthy droppings, not yellow
  • History - I had him since he was a baby

Cage Info:

  • Cage Type - 24x24x48 screen cage
  • Lighting - 60 watt basking bulbs on from 6am to 6 pm. 24" T5 on from 6-6
  • Temperature - mid 80's over all, mid to high 60's at night as its the winter here in NJ
  • Humidity - I do not measure humidity
  • Plants - Pothos and umbrella
  • Placement - Living room
  • Location - NJ

Current Problem - Fred stopped eating about two weeks ago.
 
stugotz13 said:
Sorry for the late response


Chameleon Info:

  • Your Chameleon - Male Amilobe 18 months old. I had him since he was 3 months old
  • Handling - several times a week
  • Feeding - 5-6 crickets every other day dusted with Repashy Lo-D. Crickets are gut loaded with Repashy Superload
  • Supplements - Repashy Lo-D every feeding
  • Watering - Automatic misting 10 mins-5-5-5 every 3 hours. Yes they drink
  • Fecal Description - Healthy droppings, not yellow
  • History - I had him since he was a baby

Cage Info:

  • Cage Type - 24x24x48 screen cage
  • Lighting - 60 watt basking bulbs on from 6am to 6 pm. 24" T5 on from 6-6
  • Temperature - mid 80's over all, mid to high 60's at night as its the winter here in NJ
  • Humidity - I do not measure humidity
  • Plants - Pothos and umbrella
  • Placement - Living room
  • Location - NJ

Current Problem - Fred stopped eating about two weeks ago.
Click to expand...
Hi there... See additional questions in bold.


Chameleon Info:


  • Your Chameleon - Male Amilobe 18 months old. I had him since he was 3 months old
  • Handling - several times a week
  • Feeding - 5-6 crickets every other day dusted with Repashy Lo-D. Crickets are gut loaded with Repashy Superload At this age it should be 3 feeders every other day.
  • Supplements - Repashy Lo-D every feeding When last did you replace this supplement with a new one?
  • Watering - Automatic misting 10 mins-5-5-5 every 3 hours. Yes they drink... Make sure the cage is drying out during the day. Higher risk for an RI developing if it is constantly wet because bacteria can grow.
  • Fecal Description - Healthy droppings, not yellow
  • History - I had him since he was a baby Have you gotten a fecal done to ensure there is not a parasite issue?

Cage Info:


  • Cage Type - 24x24x48 screen cage
  • Lighting - 60 watt basking bulbs on from 6am to 6 pm. 24" T5 on from 6-6 When last did you replace your UVB bulb? Which bulb strength are you using 5.0 or 10.0?
  • Temperature - mid 80's over all, mid to high 60's at night as its the winter here in NJ So mid 80's at basking or the entire cage?
  • Humidity - I do not measure humidity This is an important aspect to ensure they are not in too low or too high of levels.
  • Plants - Pothos and umbrella
  • Placement - Living room
  • Location - NJ

Current Problem - Fred stopped eating about two weeks ago. Anything in the room change when he stopped eating? Move anything around? Start leaving curtains closed or open? Any change?
 
At this age it should be 3 feeders every other day. 10-4
When last did you replace this supplement with a new one? Never
Make sure the cage is drying out during the day. Higher risk for an RI developing if it is constantly wet because bacteria can grow. I wipe the drip pan every other day
Have you gotten a fecal done to ensure there is not a parasite issue? I have not
When last did you replace your UVB bulb? Which bulb strength are you using 5.0 or 10.0? 6 weeks ago, T5
So mid 80's at basking or the entire cage? Room temp is around 74 basking bulb is in corner
Anything in the room change when he stopped eating? Move anything around? Start leaving curtains closed or open? Any change? No changes

I will address the humidity. Moved from Florida to NJ in June, he adapted well, but it is much drier here. What do you suggest?
 
Check the best by date on the supplement. If it is passed that date replace it.

That is good you clean out the water in the drip pan... But it is the growth on the branches as well. If they are staying wet from constant mistings during the day when all the lights are on.

I would suggest a fecal just to rule out a parasite issue causing the lack of eating. You can find a reptile vet and see if they will allow you to drop one off to be tested prior to seeing the cham to reduce stress. Then if it is negative no stress done. If it is positive they would have to see him to get a weight and give the correct dosage for the med.

Do you know what the UVB strength of the bulb is? It would be printed on the bulb. Also what is the measured distance to the basking branch below it. Another thought is if you were using a stronger bulb and dropped back to a weaker bulb and the UVB is not in the levels it needs to be for the distance basking is below it. Or vice versa even. This would be over exposure or under exposure. Both can cause reduced appetite and other health issues.

Per the humidity. Running a fogger in the room can help. Not in the cage during the day but in the room to up the ambient levels. You only need them to be 50-60% during the day. So you would want to get a gauge to know what your levels are.


And then there is always the chance that he is just on a strike. This can happen with Panthers.
 
Beman said:
Check the best by date on the supplement. If it is passed that date replace it.

That is good you clean out the water in the drip pan... But it is the growth on the branches as well. If they are staying wet from constant mistings during the day when all the lights are on.

I would suggest a fecal just to rule out a parasite issue causing the lack of eating. You can find a reptile vet and see if they will allow you to drop one off to be tested prior to seeing the cham to reduce stress. Then if it is negative no stress done. If it is positive they would have to see him to get a weight and give the correct dosage for the med.

Do you know what the UVB strength of the bulb is? It would be printed on the bulb. Also what is the measured distance to the basking branch below it. Another thought is if you were using a stronger bulb and dropped back to a weaker bulb and the UVB is not in the levels it needs to be for the distance basking is below it. Or vice versa even. This would be over exposure or under exposure. Both can cause reduced appetite and other health issues.

Per the humidity. Running a fogger in the room can help. Not in the cage during the day but in the room to up the ambient levels. You only need them to be 50-60% during the day. So you would want to get a gauge to know what your levels are.


And then there is always the chance that he is just on a strike. This can happen with Panthers.
Click to expand...

Thank you for the help!
 
Beman said:
Your welcome. Let me know what your distance to basking is below the uvb and which bulb strength it is.... Then we can see if this could be part of it.
Click to expand...

6" to 7" distance. UVB strentgh I would have to check but the specs from Reptisun state this - 5% UVB Output, 30% UVA Output, FULL SPECTRUM
 
stugotz13 said:
6" to 7" distance. UVB strentgh I would have to check but the specs from Reptisun state this - 5% UVB Output, 30% UVA Output, FULL SPECTRUM
Click to expand...
Ok so if the bulb is in fact their 5.0 bulb you would want the basking branch 8-9 inches below the fixture. This would put him in a UVI 3 which is what he needs to be. But if the bulb is the stronger one that is a 10.0 bulb you need a full 11-12 inches to the branch below it to be in a UVI 3.

This is where it gets iffy. If using a 10.0 bulb at that distance he would be in an over exposure range. With the 5.0 at that distance of 6-7 inches it would be higher then the recommended 3 UVI roughly sitting between a 5-6 UVI where his back raises higher into it.

So I would double check your bulb strength just to be sure. And it is a single bulb fixture correct?
 
Beman said:
Ok so if the bulb is in fact their 5.0 bulb you would want the basking branch 8-9 inches below the fixture. This would put him in a UVI 3 which is what he needs to be. But if the bulb is the stronger one that is a 10.0 bulb you need a full 11-12 inches to the branch below it to be in a UVI 3.

This is where it gets iffy. If using a 10.0 bulb at that distance he would be in an over exposure range. With the 5.0 at that distance of 6-7 inches it would be higher then the recommended 3 UVI roughly sitting between a 5-6 UVI where his back raises higher into it.

So I would double check your bulb strength just to be sure. And it is a single bulb fixture correct?
Click to expand...

Great info! Yes single 24" fixture and it's def a 5.0. I'll drop his branch a bit. Thanks again!
 
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